This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[DialedLife]

I'm in 9/8k and it's too soft. I bottom out a really often. Every intersection and in hard turns. Yes even flat surface corners. But my struts are blown, and springs are drooped.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by DialedLife

I'm in 9/8k and it's too soft. I bottom out a really often. Every intersection and in hard turns. Yes even flat surface corners. But my struts are blown, and springs are drooped.

seriously? then nothing you just said is relevant...

[joshchewuhh]

Im currently running the new forged PBM knuckles along with extended LCA. I have been told I shouldn't run aftermarket outer tie rods due to them binding. I was told to run stock outers.

My current tie rod setup are Kazama s14 inners along with SPL V5 outers.

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by joshchewuhh

Im currently running the new forged PBM knuckles along with extended LCA. I have been told I shouldn't run aftermarket outer tie rods due to them binding. I was told to run stock outers.

My current tie rod setup are Kazama s14 inners along with SPL V5 outers.

The cheap aftermarket outers usually don't have bearings with enough misalignment. A quality name brand like SPL will work fine.

[badass8]

So I have been doing my research but I haven't found a straight foeard answer so here is my issue.
First my setup that I just installed:
S14 FLCA's
Inner Tein Tie Rods with rack spacers
SPL Tie Rod Ends
S13 Modded Knuckles
However it still has stock traction rods

And I got everything aligned.

So I turned the wheel to full lock and I noticed my angle has decreased and I can only turn the wheel one full time around and it locks due to the outer tie rod hitting the s14 bump stop. I have read that many people grind or cut off the bump stop, but I am worried if I do this will my outer tie rod will now hit my control arm. What can I do to prevent the outer tie rod from hitting my control arm and to increase my angle like I hoped to do?
Thank you.

[az_240]

^Best solution is to chop the stock bump stops and weld on adjustable stops with a bolt/nut setup like this

[Def]

Who cares if your tie rod hits your LCA? It's your new bump stop at that point. If you can go that far, fab up a new steering stop like above. Not rocket surgery.

[yetijeff]

Originally Posted by Def

Not rocket surgery.

Lolz......

[badass8]

That is a pretty sweet looking bump stop. Never seen that one before, learn something new everyday. I will be chopping up my bump stops thank you for the help.


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[Jfitzg38]

I've reqd back into this tjread and can't seem to find an exact answer to my question.

If I were to extend my s13 flca's by 30mm, would I need to run s14 outer tie rods (which I believe are longer) in order to compensate?

[KA240SX808]

It's the Inners that are longer.
If you look through again you should be able to find a post with the Lengths of different Nissan Tie-Rods that fit our Racks.
Most requiring S14 Outers due to the Thicker Rod/Thread pitch change.

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Originally Posted by joshchewuhh

Im currently running the new forged PBM knuckles along with extended LCA. I have been told I shouldn't run aftermarket outer tie rods due to them binding. I was told to run stock outers.

My current tie rod setup are Kazama s14 inners along with SPL V5 outers.

We tell people to use the OEM style outers and our long inners because our knuckle is set up to have no bump steer at the OEM outer vertical height so if you need to use SPL outers becuase of the turnbuckle length (since Kazama inner length is not going to work for anyone) then just make sure you adjust the aftermarket outer tie rod taper height to be the same as stock.

I know it a PITA because the taper shank on that one is a mile long.

[Black240Ct]

im piecing together a new set up.

ive moved my steering rack an inch forward
extended my LCA by 1 1/4"
getting PBM pro knuckles

for my tie rods I have s14 tein inners with the slip on spacer and for outers i have q45 moog. they are the same thread pitch as s14 and appear to have the same taper angle, but the taper seems to extend further then a s14 moog(sold my old knuckles so have nothing to bolt it into currently) the q45 moog outer are a little over an inch longer then a s14, so i think this setup will work. waiting for my knuckles to get to me to bolt it all together.

[NoPistons!]

Looks like i30 inners with q45 outers are the best budget minded forklift steering rod I have to extend my s13 outers so my wheels can go full swing. I've already extended my outers almost an inch and feel if i give it more track i'm really gonna run out of thread. Lol.

[MidwestMyriad]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

time for some track testing. The current Australian dollar is good for you guys. The intro price is going to be $199 AUD including our sales tax which is $181AUD excluding our tax = $162USD + delivery.

40mm roll centre correction and a little over 60 degrees of bolt on steering lock.

So are these jams still happening, or should we start looking into other options?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by MidwestMyriad

So are these jams still happening, or should we start looking into other options?

They're delaying them as long as they can because they need to make their money back on the knuckles, and they realize once these come out nobody is going to want to buy a whole knuckle.

[MidwestMyriad]

Haha, didn't think about it like this^, valid point.

[dudermagee]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

They're delaying them as long as they can because they need to make their money back on the knuckles, and they realize once these come out nobody is going to want to buy a whole knuckle.

These just correct roll center while the knuckles are true drop knuckles right?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by dudermagee

These just correct roll center while the knuckles are true drop knuckles right?

Yeah, but most people don't care since they function the same way. Drop knuckles are nice if you have long coilovers in the front, but other than that it's the same as dropping the LCA mount. Hence why PSM forged knuckles are just LCA/tie rod drop.

I thought this was kinda cool. A typical low car on the left, my car on the right.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Yeah, but most people don't care since they function the same way. Drop knuckles are nice if you have long coilovers in the front, but other than that it's the same as dropping the LCA mount. Hence why PSM forged knuckles are just LCA/tie rod drop.

I thought this was kinda cool. A typical low car on the left, my car on the right.

I am having a hard time imagining any road that either of those could make it down, but your geometry is amazing, considering.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by MidwestMyriad

So are these jams still happening, or should we start looking into other options?

They are still happening, we've got them on a few cars testing on track already (for the past 4-5 months now)

We will be running a small production batch in the next month or 2. Keep an eye on our facebook page if you're not already on it for further updates: www.facebook.com/gktech

[Silvi]

Is somebody have issues with clearance after forwarding the rack?
My downpipe rubbing steering shaft when then engine is moving under load. any easy solution?
Its a PITA removing the downpipe

[Drift_FX]

Originally Posted by Silvi

Is somebody have issues with clearance after forwarding the rack?
My downpipe rubbing steering shaft when then engine is moving under load. any easy solution?
Its a PITA removing the downpipe

dent the downpipe or move your exhaust hanger to pull it over.... or even better, replace your engine mounts so your engine doesnt move as much...

[Black R]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Yeah, but most people don't care since they function the same way. Drop knuckles are nice if you have long coilovers in the front, but other than that it's the same as dropping the LCA mount. Hence why PSM forged knuckles are just LCA/tie rod drop.

I thought this was kinda cool. A typical low car on the left, my car on the right.

With that RC correction, will it hit on 17" wheels at the inner barrel if the offset isn't negative?

[Black R]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

They are still happening, we've got them on a few cars testing on track already (for the past 4-5 months now)

We will be running a small production batch in the next month or 2. Keep an eye on our facebook page if you're not already on it for further updates: www.facebook.com/gktech

What is the functional difference between these and the full knuckle kit?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Black R

With that RC correction, will it hit on 17" wheels at the inner barrel if the offset isn't negative?

There is more than 1/2in clearance there, but we're about to find out for sure. I have 17" wheels coming in the mail for the front.

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

They're delaying them as long as they can because they need to make their money back on the knuckles, and they realize once these come out nobody is going to want to buy a whole knuckle.

Everyone should buy the knuckle still & resist the urge to cheap out on the bottom bracket because while you are saving money you are killing the KPI and Scrub Radius. Thats the compromise you have to consider & thats why its still worth your money for a complete knuckle.

[joshchewuhh]

Just ordered PSM inner tie rods thinking they would be long enough with my 15mm extended S14 LCA, PSM forged knuckles and moog outer tie rod ends and they aren't. (S13)

I was thinking about purchasing two of the "big angle spacer" people sell for the steering rack to space the inners further out. Any thoughts or better ideas? Thanks

[az_240]

^apparently the q45 outers are longer and might work... you could give that a shot. I'd try to avoid the large spacers.

Originally Posted by Black240Ct

for my tie rods I have s14 tein inners with the slip on spacer and for outers i have q45 moog. they are the same thread pitch as s14 and appear to have the same taper angle, but the taper seems to extend further then a s14 moog(sold my old knuckles so have nothing to bolt it into currently) the q45 moog outer are a little over an inch longer then a s14, so i think this setup will work. waiting for my knuckles to get to me to bolt it all together.

[MidwestMyriad]

Originally Posted by joshchewuhh

Im currently running the new forged PBM knuckles along with extended LCA. I have been told I shouldn't run aftermarket outer tie rods due to them binding. I was told to run stock outers.

My current tie rod setup are Kazama s14 inners along with SPL V5 outers.

Originally Posted by DC Dan MAX USA

We tell people to use the OEM style outers and our long inners because our knuckle is set up to have no bump steer at the OEM outer vertical height so if you need to use SPL outers becuase of the turnbuckle length (since Kazama inner length is not going to work for anyone) then just make sure you adjust the aftermarket outer tie rod taper height to be the same as stock.

I know it a PITA because the taper shank on that one is a mile long.

Originally Posted by joshchewuhh

Just ordered PSM inner tie rods thinking they would be long enough with my 15mm extended S14 LCA, PSM forged knuckles and moog outer tie rod ends and they aren't. (S13)

I was thinking about purchasing two of the "big angle spacer" people sell for the steering rack to space the inners further out. Any thoughts or better ideas? Thanks

So, if I understand this correctly, PBM recommended you purchase their tie-rods, then they didn't fit? This is disconcerting info considering my recent acquisition of tie-rods from them.