Just another Lexus v8 into an s13 Build

[psi999]

Looking good mate!

I made up this bad boy to hold the throttle cable:





And the factory plastic cover hides it all away.



Hopefully this helps! (stock throttle cable bracket was useless for me).

[badass8]

How much to make another for me? haha I am going to have to figure out how to make one considering I don't have any fabrication/welding tools/skills to do so.

[badass8]

For the past week I have had a little trouble aligning everything and bolting it up so I haven't posted here in a bit.

The update:

Cut the shifter with a grinder about and inch or so and now it sits perfect.




Then I was having trouble putting the engine in the right spot. If I moved it to the Transmission crossmember MIDDLE Holes(pictured)


The engine mounts wouldn't align with the subframe holes. Blurry but you get the idea.


Then I contacted Brett Collins about my issue and he said that the transmission crossmember should be bolted onto the last holes on the chassis. However, I was only able to get one side. The other side of the crossmemeber can only reach the middle bolt on the opposite side. In which it would make the crossmember at a diagonal.


Another issue I was having was that the engine was rocking back and forth on the steering rack. In order to fix this I put 5 washers on each bolt which lifted it off the steering rack and the engine mounts sit perfect.


Putting washers on the engine mount bolts obviously raised the engine. So I had to test if my hood still closed. It does which was great but it hits ever so slightly so I will have to cut some metal pieces out on the hood which wont be an issue.


The engine is finally bolted into its final position, but now I need to drill the transmission crossmember holes a little bigger in order for it to align.

[badass8]

Haven't posted in awhile. I have just been doing small common sense things that don't require too much explaining.

Slotted the trans crossmember (yellow mark)


Test fitted the Tundra headers and they get really close to the fuel lines.



Used a coat hanger to find an upper radiator hose for the KA radiator

Found one at Autozone, just need to cut it and put it on.


A good friend Brandon helped save me some money without having to purchase a K&N Intake. The stock Intake Hose comes with a plastic resonator on the bottom that is kind of in the way. So we cut the resonator off and used aluminum and a hot glue gun to block the hole where the resonator was.


Just about ready to send it off to get wired and the headers modded.

[badass8]

Got all my fuel, power steering, and vacuum lines hooked up.

Decided to take out the clutch dampener, very easy and simple to do.

Then just gently bend the small hardline by hand and now its master straight to slave.


She's ready for wiring.

[Clutch Dog]

Have you had any isues with the brake booster? doing this in a s14 and .... no worky

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

Have you had any isues with the brake booster? doing this in a s14 and .... no worky

Unsure yet because I don't have the car moving/running yet. Should be done within the next month. Just getting my wiring/headers done.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

Have you had any isues with the brake booster? doing this in a s14 and .... no worky

Should fit fine. I've got mine in a s14 with an auto brake booster, which is larger and its got plenty of clearance.

[badass8]

The car is currently being wired and getting the headers modded by Sergio.

[Clutch Dog]

News update, had to remove the brake booster to get the engine mounted. it fits and looks tidy... now my adapter plate wont bolt up to the KA trans.


what kit did ya'll use. I got mine from suprastores which i think its XAT racing

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

News update, had to remove the brake booster to get the engine mounted. it fits and looks tidy... now my adapter plate wont bolt up to the KA trans.


what kit did ya'll use. I got mine from suprastores which i think its XAT racing

I bought the engine with all the accessories for the swap and everything was from Brett Collins. Weird how you had to remove the brake booster. At first my engine was hitting it but after I put in the washers on the engine mounts it was perfect.

It wont but up at all? Because you don't need ALL of the bolts to go through the trans.

[Fries]

Engine looks tidy as fuark badass8. I'm definitely pulling mine this winter to clean her up.

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Fries

Engine looks tidy as fuark badass8. I'm definitely pulling mine this winter to clean her up.

Thanks man. I plan to buy another and fully rebuild it. This engine looked pretty clean when I bought it so I didn't really do much maintenance besides spark plugs and new alternator. I am praying the starter works fine.

[Clutch Dog]

New update. apparently the guy Suprastores < andrew is a prior coworker to Brett, and ran off with a prototype design and is into some shady business, called brett and talked with him in depth i got an early design kit that was ripped off from brett, he sent me the right adapter and instructions and said to email him back pics of the knock off...

so let me say this, ANY KIT from XAT racing is a knock off and i wouldnt count it to work, it hasnt with mine.

Brett Collins for the win

[Clutch Dog]

The engine mounts are the reason why the engine sits so far back. we modded them to fit so the engine is mounted. i guess it'll help with the weight balance between the front and rears not how i wanted this all to work though

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

New update. apparently the guy Suprastores < andrew is a prior coworker to Brett, and ran off with a prototype design and is into some shady business, called brett and talked with him in depth i got an early design kit that was ripped off from brett, he sent me the right adapter and instructions and said to email him back pics of the knock off...

so let me say this, ANY KIT from XAT racing is a knock off and i wouldnt count it to work, it hasnt with mine.

Brett Collins for the win

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

The engine mounts are the reason why the engine sits so far back. we modded them to fit so the engine is mounted. i guess it'll help with the weight balance between the front and rears not how i wanted this all to work though

No kidding. Never knew someone stole Brett's product like that. There always has to be someone that does that.

Slotted the mounts so the engine sits at its original location with the stock driveshaft I take it?

[Clutch Dog]

Not entirely but i think the new longer base with the slots are for the ability to shift the engine to clear the brake booster, or run with a stock driveshaft


basically bought the kit from brett now, also introduced him to Bob's Drift Office over here and they might be hashing out a deal pending how the rest of my swap goes, im waiting on a clutch bearing extender now but that should be the last of it before the trans goes in and they measure out a driveshaft, when that's ordered they'll be wiring up a new harness to the vipec v44 I got ... hopeing for 270 hp

[usound89]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

News update, had to remove the brake booster to get the engine mounted. it fits and looks tidy... now my adapter plate wont bolt up to the KA trans.


what kit did ya'll use. I got mine from suprastores which i think its XAT racing

I also bought mine from suprastores and it bolts right up to my ka transmission.

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

Not entirely but i think the new longer base with the slots are for the ability to shift the engine to clear the brake booster, or run with a stock driveshaft


basically bought the kit from brett now, also introduced him to Bob's Drift Office over here and they might be hashing out a deal pending how the rest of my swap goes, im waiting on a clutch bearing extender now but that should be the last of it before the trans goes in and they measure out a driveshaft, when that's ordered they'll be wiring up a new harness to the vipec v44 I got ... hopeing for 270 hp

You mean the throwout bearing adapter when you say the clutch bearing extender? 270hp stock would be awesome, let alone the tune.

I am currently in an issue with my swap. The guy doing my swap called me up telling me my engine isn't turning over, not even by hand. He claims it is seized and I really hope it isn't. I should be getting my car in my hands next week to start taking things apart.
THIS SUCKS!

[Clutch Dog]

still waiting on Bob to weld up my headers.... they'll take a while the engine is mounted and the measurements for teh driveshaft where taken. here's to a quick finish

[badass8]

Finally towed my car back to my house after being wired. Trying to diagnose a POSSIBLE seized engine: I tried to start it and hand crank it but it wont budge at all.
Today I decided to take the spark plugs out and spray some PB blaster down onto the pistons I let them soak for 1hour...and tried to crank by hand and it wont move at all.

I noticed my battery was only at 12.2 volts so I decided to jump it with my daily to see if it would give it more power to turn the flywheel. I tested it at 13.8volts while it was being jumped and that still wasn't enough.
I can hear the starter just clicking every time its either hitting the teeth and its so seized that its not budging OR the starter is jammed.

Next test is to spin the flywheel with a flat head, hoping the starter is jammed on the flywheel teeth... Wish me luck.

[Clutch Dog]

good luck man. I dont think ive turned over my engine yet this would scare the hell outta me and put back my car another two weeks...

[badass8]

Started tearing down the intake manifold to take out the starter. Wasn't as bad as I thought, at least getting to the starter. Taking it out.. is a whole different story.





When I took off the intake manifold to see the starter I realized I would have to take off the transmission to reach the starter bolts due to the adapter plate location.
I loosened every transmission bolt except for the very top bolt which I couldn't get because I didn't have enough room.

Once I loosened the bolts I figured I should try to crank the engine by hand and this happened: (Click to view)


In other words I was able to crank the engine by hand. MY ENGINE WAS FREE!!

Next on the list:
-Take off transmission
-Inspect what was jamming what
-Buy a new starter while I have it out
-Install everything and get her running.

[Clutch Dog]

well that certainly is good news. i know a few guys have trouble with their starter alignment

[badass8]

BUT now for some bad news...

My buddy helped me take out the transmission and inspect everything:
The starter was getting stuck between the KA bell housing and flywheel so that's why I wasn't able to turn over the engine.

As you can see the top right of the starter is all messed up from the bell housing.


I also still need to take a picture of where we notched the KA transmission.

After purchasing a new starter and grinding down the starter gears we tried installing the transmission. The input shaft did not want to go in all the way because the clutch splines had damage to them which was very odd.

Took off the pressure plate and FANTASTIC the brand new 6 puck clutch disc I received from the previous owner (already installed) was cracked and broken.


But it was all a good experience. I have a new starter and soon a new clutch disc to get this engine running.

[badass8]

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of my progress since I have been eager with getting this thing done, but things have been going smooth.

I purchased a new ACT sr20 6 puck clutch disc from FRsport
http://www.frsport.com/ACT-6240306-6...T_p_15167.html

After I purchased the clutch disc I slapped it on the engine with the pressure plate bolts at 14ft lbs. And the transmission was ready for mounting.

A buddy and I tried to mate up the KA transmission input shaft with the clutch splines but for awhile it just wasn't going in. We ended up taking off the clutch disc and just slid the clutch disc by itself with the provided lube from ACT onto the input shaft. It finally went on smoothly with the clutch disc detached from the pressure plate. After that we installed the clutch disc and pressure plate onto the 1uz again and the transmission input shaft slid right into the clutch splines with ease.

Once the transmission was installed we tested the starter again and it didn't get stuck and spun the engine! Things are looking good!!

At the moment I ordered some Felpro intake manifold gaskets from Autozone and I will be picking those up tomorrow. While I am out I am going to order my custom driveshaft.

All I need to do now is install the intake manifold, fuel rail, wire it up and wait for my driveshaft to arrive and it should be running very soon.

[badass8]

The 1uz is getting closer and closer everyday towards start up and first drive.

I purchased new Felpro intake gaskets and installed those about $36
Wired up the starter/knock sensors.

I checked the injectors and one of the injectors had part of the bottom plastic piece torn off. So I normally don't do this, but I am going to go to the junk yard and grab all 8 USED injectors. I looked up brand new injectors for the 1uz and they were going for about $80 EACH. Yeah that's not happening.



Driveshaft:
I first went to Powertrain Industries and they were going to charge me $350 for a one piece steel driveshaft. I was going to go with them until a fellow 1uz/s13 owner told me another shop that was cheaper.
BNH4x4 is the shop name in Compton, no website or advertisement from my knowledge just a hole in the wall shop. I placed my order 10/9 and it was done the next day 10/10. They charged me $225 which saved me $125.

The quality is pretty good other then the tacky spray paint.




Time to install the driveshaft today and see how it fits.

[Clutch Dog]

eagerly waits.. my shop called saying they'd have to modify the tundra headers to work ( more delay's) i shoulda donethis swap in my own home...

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

eagerly waits.. my shop called saying they'd have to modify the tundra headers to work ( more delay's) i shoulda donethis swap in my own home...

Yeah that was my issue too. I just don't have a welder and I can't stand wiring so I had to have someone else do that.
How much is it costing you for this shop to do it for you?

I ended up getting the driveshaft in Saturday.

But for the second picture the yolk's U-Joint came pretty close to the dust plate so I will probably just grind it down a little.

On that note I have a question regarding driveshafts:

Does the driveshaft/yolk slide in/out during motion of the car? Ie: bumps in the road, acceleration/deceleration, and maybe elevation of the rear end vs the front end. Thank you. I am wondering if the driveshaft will hit the dust plate IF I don't grind it down.




I also went to the junk yard today and grabbed 6 injectors just in case. I will be cleaning them tomorrow and I really hope I can start the car then if I have the time between my college classes. STAY TUNED!

[Clutch Dog]

lateral movement of a driveshaft should be little to almost none, there will be some though and for the exact reasons you stated