Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by 89SwapXE

is sandblasting ok?
im in the process of getting my ssr formula mesh done
the centers the only thing left and i want to clean them up.
so is sandblasting ok? mediablasting?

just buy aircraft paint stripper and rent a power washer or buy a high power hose nozzle

sand blasting can leave pits if done wrong

[jesse_s13]

stupid question i know, i blame it on the previous owner.
If my egr tube is plugged how will this effect my car?
95 ka24de with aftermarket header.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by jesse_s13

stupid question i know, i blame it on the previous owner.
If my egr tube is plugged how will this effect my car?
95 ka24de with aftermarket header.

EGR is emissions related and can hinder the car's performance (hardly significant) and fuel economy. As well as, on rare occasions, the motor can detonate because EGR lowers combustion temperatures.

I've been running without one for a year now, as well as many other people in the country, and my engine is fine.

If you have a california model you might as well leave it blocked and not remove it completely

[jesse_s13]

Thank you sir, i was debating whether to replace it or not. It does back fire from time to time but its cool.

[dontxploitme]

my brake lights aren't turning off! they killed my battery and then after i jumped it i realized my brake lights were on and they don't turn off when i turn the car off either. help!

[s14fbs]

Originally Posted by dontxploitme

my brake lights aren't turning off! they killed my battery and then after i jumped it i realized my brake lights were on and they don't turn off when i turn the car off either. help!

under your dash there a little switch on your brake pedal theres a little rubber plug that pushed in your pedal arm well its fallen out or rotted away and has fallen out causeing your brake light switch to think your pedal is pressed but the stopper is just gone
u can tape a penny up there for a temp. nissan carries them in stock there lik 99 cents

[Carter34]

I made this account for the sole purpose of answering this question, which has been a 4 day headache for me, my dad and another mechanic.
Heres the deal: we swapped two ka24 engines (my old one was due to blow any second) and we wired everything correctly, electrical, vacuum, belts, etc. Now the engine won't start, it cranks but doesn't fire (it's backfired about 4 times but thats it) we tested all the basic stuff...checked for fuel, spark and compression. It's all good, but the damn car
Won't start! Does anyone know what we could be missing? It's got 3 mechanics stumped...the only thing which MIGHT be wrong is the vacuum lines (small chance they're connected wrong,but we doubt that) any help is greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has a vacuum line diagram, not the horrible Nissan one, but one with real life pics would help to double check, thanks.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by jesse_s13

Thank you sir, i was debating whether to replace it or not. It does back fire from time to time but its cool.

you don't need to replace it unless its 100% seized in the open position

Clean it, just dunk it in a shit ton of cleaner and then try and get everything out with a small wire brush and compressed air

If you're back firing then its no good. Hell, i have a working one minus the EGR tube and the squid thing, pay me shipping and i'll send it to you for free

The reason i said if you have a california model is because it has so much more emissions related stuff compared to non-ca models. For instance, there is an EGR temp solenoid that you have to splice in some resistance bullshit or you will throw CELs... not worth the hassle for such minute gain. Either fix or leave alone

[s14fbs]

Originally Posted by Carter34

I made this account for the sole purpose of answering this question, which has been a 4 day headache for me, my dad and another mechanic.
Heres the deal: we swapped two ka24 engines (my old one was due to blow any second) and we wired everything correctly, electrical, vacuum, belts, etc. Now the engine won't start, it cranks but doesn't fire (it's backfired about 4 times but thats it) we tested all the basic stuff...checked for fuel, spark and compression. It's all good, but the damn car
Won't start! Does anyone know what we could be missing? It's got 3 mechanics stumped...the only thing which MIGHT be wrong is the vacuum lines (small chance they're connected wrong,but we doubt that) any help is greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has a vacuum line diagram, not the horrible Nissan one, but one with real life pics would help to double check, thanks.

Na vacuum lines now I'm guessing it's a dual cam
For na there should be a vacuum line to the fpr to the port coming off the back outside nipple and your main line for the brake booster and a t in the small line to the egr ( if running it )
But to me it sound like you have your dizzy set 180degrees off Which will cause it to backfire and u would still have spark just not in the right timing

[Carter34]

Its actually a single cam, and we've double checked the timing over and over, it's right on the mark...I'll check out the lines to see what you mean, I just need an image of one with the vacuum lines correctly connected so I can compare it to my setup.

[jesse_s13]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

you don't need to replace it unless its 100% seized in the open position

Clean it, just dunk it in a shit ton of cleaner and then try and get everything out with a small wire brush and compressed air

If you're back firing then its no good. Hell, i have a working one minus the EGR tube and the squid thing, pay me shipping and i'll send it to you for free

The reason i said if you have a california model is because it has so much more emissions related stuff compared to non-ca models. For instance, there is an EGR temp solenoid that you have to splice in some resistance bullshit or you will throw CELs... not worth the hassle for such minute gain. Either fix or leave alone

Ok im gonna clean it first, ive seen a thread on how to clean it. Yeah its a ca model too. Thanks for the input.

[ZenkiKid]

Originally Posted by ZenkiKid

size of the threads on the power steering rack for the hard lines/pressure line?

I needa use a tap to clean/follow the threads on the hardline because they got jacked up from cross threading.

14x1.5 or 16x1.5??!?!

Anybody? Help me out Zilvians!

[JDM SPUG]

Hello everybody,
I'm looking to do a 5 lug conversion on my S13. My question is, does anybody makes rotors so i can use my stock S13 calipers and pads until I figure out which route I want to go. I have seen picture but couldn't find any info about them.

Thanks

[ZenkiKid]

s14 se rotors.

Im still waiting on someone to answer my question please!

[imnotniko]

Originally Posted by imnotniko

alright i got a 2 part question here. i am swapping my 4 lug to 5 lug and need new brakes. i have 180sx front brakes and im pretty sure stock s13 rear brakes (i need assurance)

now do i need 95 maxima rotors(for 5 lug) and 95 maxima pads for the fronts being i have 180sx front calipers.

for the rear i just need s13 brake pads and s13 rotors correct?


heres the pictures of my front and rear rotors / calipers. (can i re use the front rotors or do those look shot? they're project mu)

i'm trying to order new brakes tonight. can anyone help?

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by jesse_s13

Ok im gonna clean it first, ive seen a thread on how to clean it. Yeah its a ca model too. Thanks for the input.

no problem

lmk if you need mine, it's just sitting here and i don't wanna throw it to waste

[JDM SPUG]

Originally Posted by JDM SPUG

Hello everybody,
I'm looking to do a 5 lug conversion on my S13. My question is, does anybody makes rotors so i can use my stock S13 calipers and pads until I figure out which route I want to go. I have seen picture but couldn't find any info about them.

Thanks

I forgot to mention. IDK if it makes a difference but my car is non-abs so I would need non-abs 5 lug S14 rotors?

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by JDM SPUG

I forgot to mention. IDK if it makes a difference but my car is non-abs so I would need non-abs 5 lug S14 rotors?

yep, stock s13 and s14 brakes are the same beside 4/5 lug

if you don't have abs, dont buy abs brakes

[89SwapXE]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

just buy aircraft paint stripper and rent a power washer or buy a high power hose nozzle

sand blasting can leave pits if done wrong

already tried that. the centers used to be gold i think but now its silver like the side of the mesh and the face is polish. when i tried teh aircraft stuff it didnt do nothin.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by 89SwapXE

already tried that. the centers used to be gold i think but now its silver like the side of the mesh and the face is polish. when i tried teh aircraft stuff it didnt do nothin.

what kind did you use? You need the paste one and you have to lay it on super thick for like 15 minutes for it to start making a difference on thick paint
i used klean strip paste on work eurolines to remove the paint/clearcoat... it took about 3 applications to completely remove everything, and #000 steel wool or a scrubbing pad for dishes

having someone media blast it would be better than sand

[s14tan]

I got a quick question,

For some reason my car feels like it pulls harder on partial throttle rather than at WOT.
I have NO idea what it could be. I thought it was my MAFS so I upgraded to a Z32 and AFC Neo, Plugs, CTS, Ignitor, o2, etc. but same story.

Any ideas?


Mods;
S14 SR
S15 Turbo (8 PSI via ProFec Spec II)
Z32 MAF AFC Neo ( Proper MAF setup and thats it)
Usual bolt ons.

Thanks guys,

Tan

[89SwapXE]

will the s14 tie rod end boot and lower ball joint boot work on the s13?
just wondering.

[ShimiBoi]

Quick question, will xxr 002s 16x8 +0 clear q45 brakes?
If it matters, which I doubt, but its an s13 coupe.
Thank you in advance.

[benarovi]

wHAT FRONT BUMPER IS THIS?? please and thank you

[dudermagee]

Anyone know where (besides work usa) I can go to get new or like new outer lips for work equips?

[Steinkrunk]

Originally Posted by 89SwapXE

will the s14 tie rod end boot and lower ball joint boot work on the s13?
just wondering.

The tie rod end will work but the ball joint(the one on the control arm) will not. If you have s14 LCA's you just need s13 ball joints pressed in.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by benarovi

wHAT FRONT BUMPER IS THIS?? please and thank you

no one tell him...

[Wake]

LOL we need a NOBODY ANSWER THIS button.

[nothix]

this may be too much to ask but.........

I can't find a bolt that will fit the seat belt nut on the S13 Buddy Club Side Mount seat rails.
Would anyone have the original paperwork or happen to know which bolt I need for this?

Thanks.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

LOL we need a NOBODY ANSWER THIS button.

LOL a red flag that covers the post

Question
Anybody know the torque spec for the idler sprocket bolt?
I feel like that is something that i shouldn't just tighten

I checked the fsm 3 times already and can't find anything in Lower Timing Chain Installation/surrounding areas