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Old 12-17-2014, 05:39 PM   #5701
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Jd2 bender and for 2 inch 120wall you may want to look into swap offroad air over hydraulic conversion
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:25 PM   #5702
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Thanks. Prep is key. Clean your material best as possible inside and out. Good gas coverage is a must. Back purging is always good too. Cheers.
I don't know much about welding/fab work.

Lately I have been really interested in the subject and I want to learn to weld!
I see you are very talented at what you do.

Do you have any pointers for me? I would like to get started with this ASAP!
A buddy of mine has a nice welder and I'm sure I can practice with that.

Should I go to school for it? Hands on? Internet tips? Etc, etc...
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:26 PM   #5703
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Go to community college for welding. That's what I'm currently doing.
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:11 AM   #5704
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419876654.274202.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1419876637.227443.jpg
doing some practice runs on some 1.25 sch10
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Old 12-29-2014, 12:34 PM   #5705
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Nice! What do you guys recommend for a budget welder for doing manifolds and motor mounts and such?

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Old 12-29-2014, 01:18 PM   #5706
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im not expert by any means, but i seen decent/old tig welders go for a real low price, from what i have learn you dont need anything fancy to put out great looking welds. practice practice!
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Old 12-29-2014, 01:29 PM   #5707
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But is the look of the weld as important as the strength of the weld? I always see people boasting about how their welds look, but nothing about how well they will actually hold up.
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Old 12-29-2014, 01:49 PM   #5708
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if you're going to do manifolds, you'll want a tig. and i'm not sure the words 'tig' and 'budget' go together.

i have a Thermal Arc Arcmaster 185 and i'm extremely happy with it for the price (~$1700 new)

made some VQ --> s14 motor mounts this past week


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Old 12-29-2014, 05:10 PM   #5709
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You're right about tig and budget. Beefy looking mounts you got there!

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Old 12-29-2014, 08:11 PM   #5710
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yeah i know tig and budget does not go together, but sometimes you get lucky on craigs list and fine good deals
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:13 PM   #5711
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I will be selling my Everlast 200dx tig with upgraded pedal and optionally my ck9 torch setup in ontario, Canada if anyone is interested. I need more amps for 1/2" aluminum.
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Old 01-01-2015, 09:53 PM   #5712
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Try using the helium trick to increase penetration.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:07 AM   #5713
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anyone have the link or know where i can get it for this ? trying how to figure out how the person built it and where he mounted it to ?
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:59 AM   #5714
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Definitely home made, it's bolted to the front and rear bumper support locations. That's actually a great idea for a budget chassis rositerie.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:01 AM   #5715
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Definitely home made, it's bolted to the front and rear bumper support locations. That's actually a great idea for a budget chassis rositerie.
thats what I'm saying ! I would just like a little info on it …. like is it sturdy/safe ? lol
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:01 AM   #5716
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anyone have the link or know where i can get it for this ? trying how to figure out how the person built it and where he mounted it to ?
http://forum.eastwood.com/showthread...ration-project
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:14 AM   #5717
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anyone have the link or know where i can get it for this ? trying how to figure out how the person built it and where he mounted it to ?
looks like it mounted to the frame rails and when he wanted to turn the chassis you just lift and turn on on the ground
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:15 AM   #5718
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looks like it mounted to the frame rails and when he wanted to turn the chassis you just lift and turn on on the ground
sounds like some back snap action
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:49 AM   #5719
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Just hang a bunch of ballast from the end of the mechanism, no probs.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:16 PM   #5720
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that's brilliant.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:35 AM   #5721
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posted some stuff on this a while back, and has some interest whenever i put a build thread up, so here ya go. keep in mind, this is my first big project, im still pretty green as far as making stuff look good (welds)



build thread here...http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=586756

some others at @jcp_artwork on IG
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:59 PM   #5722
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I'm new to welding but I'm starting off TIG'n some tubing, here is some work I done for a friend with a S13 hatch KA24DET








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Old 01-26-2015, 07:01 PM   #5723
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Holy crap, you're new at this?? No way, is tig really that easy? Lol
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:12 PM   #5724
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Super hot and you need to back purge
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:14 PM   #5725
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Holy crap, you're new at this?? No way, is tig really that easy? Lol
Yea I bought my TIG welder actually a very long time ago but never used it but once when I first bought it so I could do my one IC piping on my 99 Infiniti G20t then put it away for a couple years and now I'm starting to use it again but it was a very expensive investment...

It's a Miller Dynasty 200DX all said and done I paid about $6500 for the entire setup, I did a lot of research before I decided this is what I needed to do the job right, IMO there was no compromise it had to be a TIG machine so I choose this one in particular, its actually fun learning this shit! Good fitment and cleanliness is very important and if you have a garage I suggest you use it, I don't so I do all my TIG welding outside and even a lil breeze is your enemy lol ....
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:16 PM   #5726
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If you have 200dx use the pulse on that thin wall stainless and back purge it to avoid sugaring.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:17 PM   #5727
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Super hot and you need to back purge
I think i'm going to look into that, im pretty sure I could make come purge caps of my own with a lil fitting on them but I need to get a different regulator from what I've seen there pretty expensive to....
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:20 PM   #5728
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back purging is a must with thin stainless, makes welding it so much easier and turns out much better.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:21 PM   #5729
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If you have 200dx use the pulse on that thin wall stainless and back purge it to avoid sugaring.
That's mild steel in the pictures and 99% fusion weld, from what I experienced in my little experience is that heat affected zone grow a lot more with mild steel vs stainless steel because I have welded a few times stainless steel and in all honestly seems even easier to get nicer welds on SS vs MS but cost a lil more then double.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:25 PM   #5730
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Stainless transfers heat faster than 30 percent faster than mild so heat affected zone would be worse on stainless if you linger. There is a alot of good info about travel speed
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