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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-30-2007, 01:33 PM | #452 | |
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Quote:
I'm not so sure I have a tow hook on that side, at least I haven't seen it.
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05-02-2007, 08:44 PM | #456 |
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Update
I know I said I would get a good video last weekend but I got preoccupied enjoying the car With that being said, I did get a chance to get a video earlier tonight. It was taken at night but it doesn't look too bad I suppose. Only thing that sucks is that my fiance and I had the music on and it didn't seem loud to us but the camera picked it up rather loudly. I turn the music off about 3/4 of the way through the video. You can still hear the car, just can't hear it blow off. Then again, you can't really hear it blow off when I turn the music off either. I want to get one this weekend when my dad and I go out for a drive with it, he's really excited which surprises the hell out of me(Corvette fanatic). Here she be, enjoy! So other than that I've been doing little things here are there to the car each day. Last night I started to tune my boost controller but it was acting kinda funny. It started when I gave it my first official run down an unpopulated road. It felt almost like I was redlining even though I wasn't, I suppose that's what surging feels like? When I looked at my boost controller the warning was going off so I let off the gas and pulled over to look at the engine. I noticed that one of the vacuum hoses to the wastegate had a small hole in it, which was the problem. I think the 11psi I gave it on that first run ripped the hose. Once I replaced that hose and turned the boost controller off, it ran fine again. That boost controller confuses me, even after all of the reading I've done. I'm going to be going out in a few minutes again and seeing if I can tune it now that the hoses are replaced. I'm also working on that conclusion post I was talking about. Should be up in an hour or two.
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05-03-2007, 11:56 AM | #459 |
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Update
Took my buddy Justin for a drive in the car and it started acting up again like it was when I thought the waste-gate tube was ripped. It was in fact ripped, but apparently that wasn't the problem. He mentioned that my clutch might be slipping and I have a feeling he's right. When I'm cruising along and decide to drop the clutch, the car starts to accelerate and then it feels like the motor is revving high as if it should be taking off but the car is only slightly accelerating despite the amount of boost it's outputting and the RPM's. I wonder if I can just get a clutch disk and not the pressure plate and such to save some cash. It looks like most clutches come as a kit with the pp and throwout bearing. Everything in there is brand new. This is going to suck. What's weird is that if I remember correctly, it doesn't feel like this started until a few days ago. Which makes no sense to me.
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05-03-2007, 12:01 PM | #460 | |
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When's the last time you bled your clutch line?
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05-03-2007, 12:03 PM | #461 |
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Right before I started driving the car. It feels normal when I push down on it but I can definitely check it again. That would make sense as well if that slave didn't have strong enough holding strength.
Edit: Wait a second, the clutch line is only engaged when shifting. This happens when I don't have my foot on the clutch and I accelerating so that can't be it unless I am missing something.
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05-03-2007, 01:38 PM | #463 |
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Hmmm, well by break it in, do you mean go easy on it or what? The first few days I didn't drive it very hard at all. It was all normal driving really. Didn't even get on the interstate.
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05-03-2007, 01:50 PM | #466 |
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You are supposed to break in a clutch for the first 500 miles with city driving and being gentle with it, no clutch drops or anything like that, and no flooring it. gets the surface broken in nicely.
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05-03-2007, 01:51 PM | #467 |
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I don't think you guys understand what I mean (or I'm not getting it, please let me know if I'm not).
My clutch is engaging fine, I can shift up and down from any gear to any gear like I should be able to perfectly. It's when I have the car in gear and foot off of the clutch. When I start to give it a good amount of gas or WOT, the car's RPM's rise but the car doesn't accelerate with that rise in RPM's. It does slightly, but definitely not like it should. That's what makes me think the clutch is slipping. It's not sticking and is just spinning on the flywheel and not putting power to the wheels.
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05-03-2007, 01:52 PM | #468 | |
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Quote:
Well that may be why. I didn't realize it was 500 miles that it needed to be broken in. I drove it for a good 3-4 days before dropping it, but I don't believe that was 500 miles.
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05-03-2007, 03:16 PM | #469 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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if your car is reving and your car isnt go.
must mean ur clutch isnt grabing. try bleedin everything over agen. if not then yank that clutch get a heavy duty clutch... if your boosting 10 with a stock clutch forsure its gona slip 10 with stock internals kould make more then 200 to the wheel
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05-03-2007, 03:56 PM | #470 |
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Ok, i know what your problem Is, I dealt with it many a time. Your clutch is not slipping, most aftermarket clutchs you CAN hammer them from the get go. When your fluid in your clutch line gets hot it expands and applies a little to much pressure on the clutch slave cylinder. Its hard to explain, but heres the fix:
Shorten the clutch pedal rod by removing the little cotter pin, unbolting the clutch master cylinder, pulling it off and turning the bracket CW to shorten it. Then put it back on, BLEED the clutch right after. And see if its any better. You need a good 1/2"-3/4" of pedal play... Try and let us know if it works. If it doesn't shorten it more and more until you have a mile of play, just to make sure this is not the problem. SHOULD work like a charm.. If this doesn't fix it, its probably your clutch slipping..
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05-03-2007, 04:09 PM | #471 | |
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I don't know...All I know is that I had this problem with a Spec clutch. Took it back to the shop that did the job (I was like 16 at the time and had no knowledge of what to do to fix it) and I'm pretty sure they bled the clutch line and it was fine again.
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05-03-2007, 04:40 PM | #472 |
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OK here is the quick run down on breaking in clutches and flywheels;
I have done it with new Spec 2 clutch and non resurfaced stock flywheel and with a new OEM clutch and a Fidanza flywheel I have heard you need to use resurfased flywheels with new clutchs - but I used a stock OEM nonresurfaced flywheel with a new Spec 2 clutch - on my last KA-T with no slippage - but the flywheel was in good shape so... You drive it like a grandma for 500 miles - I dont care what anybody says - you need to break (mate) the clutch disk and flywheel together for 500 miles!!! No slippage! Slippage causing glazing - which makes the clutch slip all the time! SO if you wanna be impatient go ahead but you just wasted your time and $$$ cause if you dont break it in properly it will slip! This is what I do - I DD the car to work - home - and night drives - take off slowly - shift through gears slowly - stay off the interstate/ or high RPM roads etc - when you go to stop/slow down reduce RPMs to under 2.5k before engaging clutch to gear down - I always gear down to stop rather than push in clutch and just use the brakes - I think it actully helps "mate" the clucth and flywheel together better - but dont gear down over 3k or else it causes too much stress on the clutch disk and could cause glazing. Im no expert - this has just always worked for me. What do you guys think? |
05-03-2007, 08:12 PM | #473 |
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I finished my last clutch job a few weeks before a drift event, and I only had about 6 days to drive the car before taking it to the event. It was a brand new Spec 6 puck with a hd pressure plate and oem flywheel (resurfaced). I drove it nice and easy for only about 50 miles... then I drove it at the event with 3rd gear clutch kicks etc. Ever since then I've put on near 8,000 miles on the clutch and still no slip. It engages smoothly and still grabs everytime I need it.
I'm not saying don't break in your clutch, just thought I'd tell you my story. I would've normally taken the time to break it in properly, but I was in a hurry and didn't want to miss the event... Oh well.... |
05-03-2007, 08:15 PM | #474 |
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I agree with JDS. I just didn't realize it needed to be babied so long. If I would have known that I would have waited until I took that trip to Jacksonville this weekend. That would have been a good 500+ miles worth of driving including the driving I've done during the week.
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05-03-2007, 08:29 PM | #476 | ||
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overkill. Just drive slow. Don't rev it up and dump the clutch, shift slow and relatively low in the rev range, don't be bangin gears and driving like you're drag racing. That's all though, if you're on the highway, it's fine. I broke in my Exedy Stage II clutch on the way to a drift event 200 miles away, the only miles that the clutch got before I thrashed the fuck out of it. No slippage here 4 events later.
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05-03-2007, 08:42 PM | #477 |
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Yeah, I drove it at normal RPM's and let it gear down. It didn't start until I started to try to tune my boost controller the other night. I had to be in WOT in order to make sure it was working correctly and that's when it started acting up. Who knows, maybe it's not the clutch. It only slips when really dumping it, I can normally drive perfect so if it is the clutch, I can drive it until I get it swapped.
I have a suspicion about something else I'm going to test tonight.
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05-03-2007, 09:57 PM | #479 |
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So I just took her down a nice desolate road and gave her the juice. She doesn't feel like she's slipping anymore.
Before I left I had a suspicion that the line to my boost gauge was leaking boost. So I disconnected the T-fitting on the vacuum line to my FPR and just hooked the vacuum line directly to the FPR(no boost gauge or boost controller) to eliminate any leakage. After that it didn't seem to feel as though it wasn't "catching." She may not have been slipping all along, but that was the best way for me to describe it. I am at my fiance's work right now and I'll be leaving in an hour or so. I'm going to try it again and see if she does it still.
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