Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by codyace

Boiling water and some vinegar...flush it through. Booyea.



Why would you ever need to know that, especially considering the drain plug seals on a copper crush washer?

idk just thought it's something to know, but thanks for the radiator stuffs

[chiboy002]

how can i tell which side AN fitting i need/have for an oil cooler in which i don't know the brand (brand name is hard to read) or what it is? (bought from someone used)

[foxystyle]

Help please! Okay so I'm swapping the ka24e for a ka24de and as I was unbolting the tansmission crossmember onm the autotranny and the bolts snapped! They came off but half or more of the boltis still stuck in there, what should I do? How am supposed to bolt on the manual crossmember, so I freaked out! Any tips, ideas?

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by foxystyle

Help please! Okay so I'm swapping the ka24e for a ka24de and as I was unbolting the tansmission crossmember onm the autotranny and the bolts snapped! They came off but half or more of the boltis still stuck in there, what should I do? How am supposed to bolt on the manual crossmember, so I freaked out! Any tips, ideas?

i've never dealt with this but either
1. vice grips (usually fails)
2. hammer and chisel ( also fails)
3. bolt extracting drill bit (works pretty well with heat and pb blaster, either or)
4. tac weld a bolt/nut to the bolt and then wrench it off. Make it a good strong weld


if its a nut that you are welding on, do it so the inside where the threads are is where you weld, you don't want to weld the nut and bolt to your crossmember

[MisawaJason]

easy-out kit

[foxystyle]

Thanks guys, I hated my self when the bolt heads snapped! Three snapped only one bolt is holding the crossmember. The bolt extracting bit and easy out kit sound promising, can they be found a home depot? Any advice on how to unbolt the driveshaft from the differential? I've been trying And spraying wd40 but they wont budge. Almost began strip the bolt :/ just effing up.

[MisawaJason]

should be able to pick up a kit at any hardware store.

[foxystyle]

Good its not the end of the world, thanks guys. So for the other stiff ass bolts like the one on the driveshaft, any other tips besides using copeious amounts of wd40 and brute force with hammers and a fence pole?

[MisawaJason]

like chiboy002 said, heat and some PB blaster

[foxystyle]

Ight thanks misawajason and chiboy002!

[speedracer601]

Ok , My power windows and sunroof just all of a sudden stopped working , Checked every fuse , relays are fine. I'm stumped. S14 btw. Any help will be appreciated.

[Irresistible]

Anyone make their own skid plate for an s14? I don't wanna pay 150 for a pbm one. What'd you use and what were the dimensioons?

[RedSiBaron]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Anyone make their own skid plate for an s14? I don't wanna pay 150 for a pbm one. What'd you use and what were the dimensioons?

Personally 150 sounds like a good price to buy my way out of the hassle of fabrication, but at the same time I myself don't like paying for things I can make myself...

First if you know anyone that has one or find someone with one, you could trace/copy it...if that's not an option, id get ahold of big sheets of cardboard and start building a template off of that

[BoostinEuros]

n/m


msglgnth

[codyace]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

how can i tell which side AN fitting i need/have for an oil cooler in which i don't know the brand (brand name is hard to read) or what it is? (bought from someone used)

AN fittings are in Standard fractional sizes, where the -# is the first part

-4 = 4AN 4 goes over /16 to create the size

2AN = 2/16 = 1/8
3AN = 3/16
4AN = 4/16 = 1/4
5AN = 5/16
6AN = 6/16 = 3/8

etc etc

Measure the output side of the hole to get your size

Originally Posted by speedracer601

Ok , My power windows and sunroof just all of a sudden stopped working , Checked every fuse , relays are fine. I'm stumped. S14 btw. Any help will be appreciated.

Check the power window amp. I wasn't sure it also controlled sunroof though.

[axiomatik]

Originally Posted by st280

Quick question about the SR20det bottom mount manifold... I keep having the studs back out on an aftermarket exhaust manifold, would I be able to just use bolts that have the same length of threads instead of using studs?

I've read everywhere and people recommend cutting off the head part of the bolt, but I don't see why you can't just leave it, and that way it won't back out, etc... Unless there's something I'm missing?

These are the studs that hold the turbo onto the manifold? From what I heard, the factory studs are inconel. Replacing with a bolt doesn't work for long as the high heat softens the metal.

Originally Posted by h2v7

i recently replaced my sohc timing chain, gears, water pump, and thermostat.


while i was in there i removed all the egr and blocked what needed.
also installed a electric fan that comes on with the car.


now when i turn off the key the car stays on 2-3 seconds and then diesels and stalls.

its a VERY rough turn off.


does anyone know what could be causing this problem?

thanks in advance for reading this and your suggestions

Might be how you wired in the fan. When you cut power, the electric fan still has enough momentum to keep spinning, turning the fan motor into a generator and generating enough juice to keep the engine running a few seconds.

[st280]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Imports Locking Turbo Bolt Kits | Locking Bolts

The size they are showing for the turbo application is 8x1.25x25mm... The stock turbo inlet stud size is 8x1.25x30mm. Going to be a problem?

And thinking of getting the stage 8 bolts + fasteners, and getting Copper locking Nuts instead of the nuts from stage 8. Think good combo?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by st280

The size they are showing for the turbo application is 8x1.25x25mm... The stock turbo inlet stud size is 8x1.25x30mm. Going to be a problem?

And thinking of getting the stage 8 bolts + fasteners, and getting Copper locking Nuts instead of the nuts from stage 8. Think good combo?

I'd order the OEM studs and nuts, and then use the OE locking plates as well.

You can use Z32 Turbo part numbers, they interchange.


Here is a link to the locking plates...these are crucial into keeping the nuts on.

PLATE-LOCK - 300ZX (Z32) 1990-1996 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

[Brian]

front tower bars...


s13 and s14 are interchangeable, right?

[Wake]

yessir Mr. BH sir

[Brian]

Thanks.

[DertyDan]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Anyone make their own skid plate for an s14? I don't wanna pay 150 for a pbm one. What'd you use and what were the dimensioons?

I remember seeing some guy do a write up on how to make one out of a stop sign or something like that. quick search should bring it up

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by DertyDan

I remember seeing some guy do a write up on how to make one out of a stop sign or something like that. quick search should bring it up

Isn't having a stop sign illegal though? I just wanna buy a sheet of aluminum, but to save the hassle of measuring everything myself, I figured I'd ask. Worse comes to worst I'll just measure myself. I'll probably use the same sheet metal as PBM uses for their skid pads.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

sheet metal as PBM uses for their skid pads.

You want something thick enough to absorb some impact, and not immediatly bend up into the pan as it is.

To me a stop sign, or diamond plate, are really the only true decent materials to use for a skidplate.

[S14DB]

.190" thick aluminum skid plate:


Panzer Skid Plates by www.dieselgeek.com

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by st280

The size they are showing for the turbo application is 8x1.25x25mm... The stock turbo inlet stud size is 8x1.25x30mm. Going to be a problem?

And thinking of getting the stage 8 bolts + fasteners, and getting Copper locking Nuts instead of the nuts from stage 8. Think good combo?

The whole reason to get the Stage8 setup is for their locking nuts/bolts.

The teardrop shape holds the bolt/nut against the turbo. Keeping it from backing out.

If you are having problems with the studs walking out I would get the Bolt kit not the nut kit. The 25mm vs 30mm is the bolt/stud length. I don't think 5mm is going to be an issue.

Stock manifold I would get the nut kit. Bolt kit for aftermarket.

Those copper ones are easy to use. But they can stretch out over time it you have stress on them.

Originally Posted by codyace

I'd order the OEM studs and nuts, and then use the OE locking plates as well.

You can use Z32 Turbo part numbers, they interchange.


Here is a link to the locking plates...these are crucial into keeping the nuts on.

PLATE-LOCK - 300ZX (Z32) 1990-1996 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

I will never use those plates again. Such a PITA to bend up around the nut. I would use the copper nuts before I buy another set of those.

[st280]

Yea I decided to get Z32 inlet studs, and copper nuts. Going to weld the top of the studs to the manifold. And get a flex pipe for my exhaust.

Should be all gravy after that. Hopefully...

Oh and the Stage 8 kit is $27 for the nuts. And $41 for the bolts. Incase anyone wanted to know, because they don't show the price on their site...

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by foxystyle

Ight thanks misawajason and chiboy002!

dude wd40 sucks for loosening an old bolt. It's just a lubricating oil, it doesn't penetrate very well. Plus it causes cancer. Get pb-blaster (made of fish oil) which works wonders, and i've heard the Freeze-off or w.e works good too, never used it though. But either way, no prob

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Anyone make their own skid plate for an s14? I don't wanna pay 150 for a pbm one. What'd you use and what were the dimensioons?

there was a thread once on another forum i saw, i might be able to find it.

The pbm one seems fairly easy to make, just cutting and bending will be kinda janky if you do it ghetto like. the bolts are, at least for s13, 2 in the back of the cross member, 2 on the tension arms, and 1 on the radiator support.

[chiboy002]

what's an o-disk wheel/difference from a disk? Fitment on s13?

and uuuuuuuuh

for filling up my oil cooler, do i fill engine and then fill up the lines/cooler separately or what? If i fill up the cooler and lines, any problems if it opens up and i have pretty cold oil flowing into the engine from the cooler since it's just sitting there getting cool from the air?

[doomviillain]

I have a ka24de and I bought a new thermostat, installed it, put in coolant, ran the car. My upper radiator hose is hot, the radiator is hot, the engine is hot, the lower radiator hose is not.?

I tested the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and it worked fine. I installed it right, but its not opening. Im thinking of running it without a thermostat. So to the point, whats the plus & downside running the car without a thermostat? any idea what else it could be besides the thermostat?