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12-24-2014, 08:01 PM | #17671 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Is it normal for ignition timing in an sr20det, to drop to 0 degrees (TDC) when ever letting off of the throttle?
Say I'm idling at 900 rpm and ignition timing at 15btdc, then rev the engine to 3000rpm (timing going between 30-36 degrees) and then let the throttle go. Should the timing drop to 0 and then back 15btdc? |
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12-26-2014, 10:13 AM | #17672 |
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I need a new transmission mount.
Do solid ones cause too much noise or vibration? Or am I better off getting an OEM style one that is of a harder urethane?
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12-26-2014, 10:41 AM | #17673 |
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IMHO a solid transmission mount is 10x worse than solid engine mounts. Get Nismo.
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12-26-2014, 09:56 PM | #17674 |
Zilvia Member
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Hi guys, small question here that i didn't wanna make a new thread for. So here it is.. today me and my brother were checking out my exhaust and were trying to see if we could Lower my 1995 s14 any more. As it sits, it's pretty high (17" rims and like a 2" ugly Gap inbetween tire/fender) it's fugly, and i can't comprehend how other s14's slam their car to where they have no wheel gap and their front bumper is almost touching the ground.
The question is.. how do you guys clear your Oem downpipe thing? mine sits lower than my cat and is like 3" off the ground.. am i missing some super kewl step to lowering my car with Oem down pipe? Please help, thank you. edit: you can actually see my gap in my little avatar picture. My oem headers are what sit so low btw (idk what else to call the piping) thanks |
12-26-2014, 09:59 PM | #17675 |
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: linden nc
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S14 came with no radio. I have put in a pioneer double din. My question is I have no dash lights. Clock works. Dimmer switch is good. No blown fuses,and yes tail lights work as do the ac,heater control lights. On the harness adapter there are 2 wires not hooked up, one which says illumination the other says dimmer. Do one of those 2 wires need to be hooked up to the pioneer to complete the circuit?
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12-26-2014, 10:16 PM | #17676 |
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I have a nagisa double lok rails. It's kind of rough to slide the seat back and forth. I would have to pull and push on the steering wheel for me to adjust the seat. Is this normal? Is it suppose to slide like the stock slider?
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12-26-2014, 10:36 PM | #17677 |
Zilvia Junkie
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would anyone know why the temp guage on my cluster isnt working? it never worked when i bought the car. my speedo didnt work so i changed the cluster. the new cluster had a working speedo but the temp guage still didnt work. but about a month ago, while i was driving it started working but only for a few minutes. and it was just jumping all over the place. this was the first time it ever happened and the only time. so can someone help me out? car is a 91 KADE
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12-27-2014, 01:00 AM | #17678 |
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Have you check the connections? It could be the sensor.. most people just add a senor and water temp gauge for accurate reading.
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12-27-2014, 09:49 AM | #17681 | |
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Quote:
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12-27-2014, 12:12 PM | #17682 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Before you go buying a sensor, make sure its the coolant temperature SWITCH.
There is a coolant temp SENSOR and coolant temp SWITCH. One is for gauge cluster and one is for the ecu. Just a heads up. And you can get them at auto zone |
12-27-2014, 03:22 PM | #17683 |
Zilvia Junkie
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-Bought an s14 sr
-Didn't come with a turbo -got oem bb t28 -no banjo bolt for turbo oil feed, however it came with one in the block -oil feed banjo bolt from the block doesn't screw into turbo -threads look ok Does the turbo have a different thread pitch banjo bolt from the block?? |
12-27-2014, 03:44 PM | #17684 | |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
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Location: Las Vegas
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Quote:
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...FQphfgodsKQASw |
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12-27-2014, 05:56 PM | #17685 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Went full retard and forgot i had another turbo. The answer is No if anyone is wondering. The banjo bolts on the block and turbo have different threads.
Quote:
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12-28-2014, 09:31 AM | #17687 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
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12-28-2014, 07:45 PM | #17688 |
can i get someone's opinion on these lower control arms for my s13 ?http://www.frsport.com/FRSPORT-1128-...-R_p_2246.html
Well it help with a smoother riding experience or should I get a different brand like moog? |
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12-28-2014, 07:54 PM | #17689 |
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Those are the same thing as moog, but more expensive and without a brand name attached. The moog balljoints are good stuff.
You are really overthinking this. |
12-28-2014, 08:02 PM | #17691 | |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
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Quote:
anything is better than 20+ year old ball joints, control arms and bushings! however, id HEAVILY recommend you order 2 brand nuts + bolts for the lower control arms. reason being is that the insides if the bushings have a metal sleeve that likes to rust to the bolt. if this has occurred, you will have to cut the bolt out with an angle grinder... and i speak from personal experience. nissan sells the nuts and bolts brand new for like $14 a set. |
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12-28-2014, 09:07 PM | #17692 |
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The moog are $35/ea. I had an frsport balljoint fail within 6 months of install a while back. Might as well go rockauto if you want generic flca with new balljoint and bushing.
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12-28-2014, 09:08 PM | #17693 | |
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12-29-2014, 05:57 PM | #17694 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Inland empire, Hemet
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Will there be an issue with using s13 rlca and uprights on an s14? I've searched and the threads that come up only talk about z32 rlca. I'm thinking there wouldn't be an issue since s13 and s14 rear arms are interchangeable?
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12-30-2014, 07:23 AM | #17695 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Can anyone shed some light on whether the heater core lines are accessible in an S13 with a non-VVTI 1JZ swapped into it with the stock twin turbos? I've read briefly in the 2JZ swap thread that people have trouble running heater lines with factory twins on a 2JZ but do you run into that same problem with the 1JZ swap?
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12-30-2014, 08:37 AM | #17696 |
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S13 RLCA are shorter and have a different angle to them. There is a reason people swap to an S14 subframe.
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12-30-2014, 01:39 PM | #17697 |
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Well I'm swapping a s14 subframe into my s13 but the s14 RLCA's are in bad shape and my s13 ones are in good shape so I wanted to save money and time by using my s13 ones.
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12-31-2014, 12:29 PM | #17699 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Age: 28
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When I am driving or drifting (most of the time) my motor cuts out after about 4k RPM's, throttle stops working and when it drops to 0 RPM's my throttle starts working again. This doesn't happen all the time but most of the time. My father told me to clean the MAF and see if that solves the problem. What else could it be if I do not have a bad or dirty MAF? 😆
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01-01-2015, 07:20 AM | #17700 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
Clean MAF Replace Fuel Filter Run test, if fine, problem fixed If not fine, sensors are cheaper than injectors...maybe Run test If not fine, suck it up and replace injectors If you have a ECU code breaker, see what codes come up and if you can, correct the bad part/s The bottom line, though, is these are all systems in the car that are ~20 years old and probably haven't been replaced at all during their service life
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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