CA18DET - fully built, was running, now it's not

[aintnobiscuit]

Hi guys.

I have the following mods on my CA18DET.

block was bored to 83.5mm, decked and honed
head was hot tanked, resurfaced, new oil seals, lifters, etc
8.5:1 83.5mm CP pistons
Pauter connecting rods
ACL race bearings (properly sized based on crankshaft)
Supertech dual valve springs
Supertech intake/exhaust valves
Tomei 260/8.5mm cams (same for intake and exhaust)
haltech platinum sport 1000
t3 .50 trim .48 a/r

I did this rebuild and it was running great. I had 150psi across all cylinders. I took it out for a test drive and the MLS head gasket was leaking so I replaced it with an OEM nissan head gasket. After that, I have not been able to get it to start. The compression test shows 140psi across all 4 cylinders.

Things I have checked:

1. Compression: 140psi on all 4. 0 deviance between cylinders
2. Spark (new coil pack harness, coils, checked with spark tester, verified good on all 4)
3. Timing belt (video below)
4. Fuel injector power (12v) / signal (jumps from 3 to 5 on pulse IIRC)
5. injection is batch mode
6. Counted cogs on timing belt (39 from intake to exhaust mark, 48 from exhaust to crank mark)
7. I tried two maps on my haltech (injection time i that i used to get it running previously and the VE map that I had it running with when i blew the HG)
8. Swapped injectors
9. Swapped CAS
10. Swapped coil pack wiring harness - the other was arcing
11. Swapped coils

The only thing I can find that may contribute is my wideband (Innovate) only sends signal to 1 output at a time. I need two (gauge / ecu). The gauge always reads properly regardless of which output i connect it to. I tested signal at the actual output and the output not connected to the gauge always reads 0v or 0.01v. Multimeter has been verified to be working properly.

To reiterate: Cam timing is dead on as well as the timing belt install. Injectors are spraying now and have good fuel pressure. I may pull them to check spray pattern like the 440s at some point. Compression is 140psi across the board. Have spark. Ability to run is not affected by spraying starter fluid. Haltech shows flatline (7.4 afr / 0 volts) while gauge shows proper voltage / AFR. Swapping wires yields same result. It seem like only 1 output on the innovative wideband controller works at a time. I tested the voltage with a multimeter straight off the analog 2 and analog 1 outputs. Whichever is hooked to the ecu is always 0v.

Heres a video that shows timing belt markings better


Here's a video of what my 440cc injectors are doing when i turn the CAS manually (yes I know this is dangerous). Fuel pressure is at a base of 36psi w/o vacuum line attached. Almost nothing. The injectors are running in batch mode. I put the 550cc injectors in and have the same problem. I show 12v at the injector plugs and the signal jumps on the other pin when i turn it. Anything else I can check here guys? I recall when I did this test a couple months ago, the spray was MUCH more.


And here's the result.


WTF.... help please?

[aintnobiscuit]

Well shit on me.... no gas. I have a 16 gallon fuel cell, which i thought i filled up before i started the rebuild. I didn't. I haven't put the fuel tank sender unit in it yet so the gas gauge doesn't work.... just assumed it had gas... let that be a lesson... heres a vid

[1990 sr hatch]

lmfao my gas guage dosn't work either

[aintnobiscuit]

LOL... well, you know what they say about making assumptions. (I assumed the gas tank was full)

[humilde_s13]

Dats a nice 4 door 510 sounds sick. Any more sound vids?

[aintnobiscuit]

It's a 2 door, but they all look the same, same length, etc.

No more videos for now, taking it to the dyno tomorrow.. I'll have more vids then. Here's some pics from tonight.

Finally put the hood and fenders on:

Tuck!


3/4 view


LOW....


Fuck... maybe too low?