Injecors all spray at the exact same time!?

[Driftitsidewayz123]

Hey, I have got a Fully Built Sohc Ka24e N/A. I just swapped the engine into my 89 s13 and have had nothing but problems. The engine will start up and sounds like 2 pistons are missing and 2 are right on for about 10 seconds then the engine just dies out. The engine has been fully rebuilt with a new wiring harness. The engine is timed perfect, all vacuum lines have been cut and sealed. I have spark in all 4 cylinders in the order of 1-3-4-2 BUT when I pulled the injectors they all spray at the exact same time. Is this normal? Aren't they suppose to spray in the same pattern as the spark plugs 1-3-4-2 at the exact same time!? If so Would that mean I may have a faulty ECU because the ECU is the only thing that could effect the pattern of the injectors. mine are spraying very strong but all at the exact same time. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[I LUV MY S13]

theres no way they spray at the same time when removed becausethe tips are opened by an electrical impulse.

[CTS13]

maybe thats why my kade runs like absolute shit. i took of the fuel rail with injectors still inside and i put a carboard peice right infront of the injectors and cranked it for literally half a second, like one crank and they all sprayed.

[cotbu]

Sequential Multiport fuel injection and Simultaneous Multiport fuel injection

Sequential Multiport fuel injection: Engine operating Normal
Simultaneous Multiport fuel injection: Engine operating in Safemode or being Started.

I've only run into this problem with Sr's but might be the same for other Nissan engines, check for codes, and swap ecu then check wiring.

[Driftitsidewayz123]

well I can tell you its possible because it is happening. the ecu mapping tells the injectors to open in the order of 1-3-4-2 so something with the ECU must be wrong and for some reason is sending the pulse all at the same time.

cotbu: Its a new wiring harness its all been re done and gone through. So you are saying try a new ECU?

[cotbu]

Check for codes, test all sensors and wiring then last resort swap ecu's. If you have an ecu available you could... start there first.

[Driftitsidewayz123]

Hey thank you for actually helping cotbu. I got code 55 (all plugs and sensors are O.K.) On my ECU self diagnostic. Today I bought a new ECU and plugged it up. All injectors are still spraying at the same time and I also got code 55 with this ECU. Any other Ideas? If you want to hear about the car to get a better idea on whats going on here it is.


I bought an 89 s13 with a messed up sohc in it. It would start up for a bit and die out within 10 seconds (sounded like shit). The engine was not taken care of at all. I bought this built and fully rebuilt sohc. Dropped it in and it started up real shitty n died out. Just like the engine that was it before.
So i pulled the front cover and re timed it. I have checked all the spark plugs and they all have spark. All emissions are cut and tightly sealed. iv got aftermarket OBX headers on it with no exhaust. Just the headers. Im running a stock intake.
When I have the dizzy in the middle where it should be it starts only for a second. When the dizzy is advanced all the way it will start real strong then dies out quick. If I open the throttle a little it will rev up but once the throttles closed it dies. It just wont idle or stay on.

Now the engine that was in it and this engine run just about the same. So common sense would tell you find what they have in common. The only thing they had in common are ECU, Wiring harness, MAF, Injectors and fuel rail (I used the ones off the old engine) The dizzy, throttle body, and 02 sensor. ECU and wiring harness are new and ECU is saying all is good.

So replace o2, throttle body, MAF, and dizzy? Idk I'm Stuck.

[24j0hn]

Originally Posted by cotbu

Sequential Multiport fuel injection and Simultaneous Multiport fuel injection

Sequential Multiport fuel injection: Engine operating Normal
Simultaneous Multiport fuel injection: Engine operating in Safemode or being Started.

I've only run into this problem with Sr's but might be the same for other Nissan engines, check for codes, and swap ecu then check wiring.

correct, its also called batch fire... there is a sensor on the engine making the pcm go like WTF???... check the cts, maf, o2, and tps which are the main sensors for making a car go in limp mode or also closed/open loop

[n2ones]

Originally Posted by Driftitsidewayz123

Hey, I have got a Fully Built Sohc Ka24e N/A. I just swapped the engine into my 89 s13 and have had nothing but problems. The engine will start up and sounds like 2 pistons are missing and 2 are right on for about 10 seconds then the engine just dies out. The engine has been fully rebuilt with a new wiring harness. The engine is timed perfect, all vacuum lines have been cut and sealed. I have spark in all 4 cylinders in the order of 1-3-4-2 BUT when I pulled the injectors they all spray at the exact same time. Is this normal? Aren't they suppose to spray in the same pattern as the spark plugs 1-3-4-2 at the exact same time!? If so Would that mean I may have a faulty ECU because the ECU is the only thing that could effect the pattern of the injectors. mine are spraying very strong but all at the exact same time. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

i have a similar problem, I have to move my distributor fully clockwise...I don't know if that is fully advance or not but if I move the distributor counter clockwise the car runs really rough and will stall. I got a code 45 so I swapped injectors have tried all kinds of injectors but it doesn't change anything. i have also changed MAF Sensor, TPS and the module on the coil bracket....car runs the same. Only thing I haven't change is the distributor. All my timing marks line up as well......I think we have the same problem

[cotbu]

all vacuum lines have been cut and sealed

except for fpr right?
Was this car ever an automatic?
Let's throw some codes first, disconnect the mafs and start the car.
If it starts, does it idle better? check for mafs code.
disconnect ignition coil, check for code
I don't like buying parts, before i find the items that cause the problems.
I think it's the mafs.
What about your grounds? good!

Here's something you can try once you get it running, even poorly:
Mode V - Real Time Diagnostic Function

Use Mode V to determine if the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and/or Ignition signal are working properly.

* Start engine.
* Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise.
* After the LED flashes 5 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise.
* Make sure LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes when racing or idling the engine.
* If it flashes, count the number of flashes, turn engine off, and see the following 3 paragraphs.
* Perform real-time diagnosis insepction and repair or replace malfunctioning part if present.
* If LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes, turn engine off.


If the RED LED flashes 3 times for 1.5 seconds, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Check the harness continuity at CPS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes twice-3 times for 0.5 seconds, check Mass Air Flow Sensor. Check the harness continuity at MAFS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

If the GREEN LED flashes 4 times for 0.2 seconds 3 times, check the ignition signal. Check the harness continuity when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal.

Originally Posted by Driftitsidewayz123

Hey thank you for actually helping cotbu. I got code 55 (all plugs and sensors are O.K.) On my ECU self diagnostic. Today I bought a new ECU and plugged it up. All injectors are still spraying at the same time and I also got code 55 with this ECU. Any other Ideas? If you want to hear about the car to get a better idea on whats going on here it is.


I bought an 89 s13 with a messed up sohc in it. It would start up for a bit and die out within 10 seconds (sounded like shit). The engine was not taken care of at all. I bought this built and fully rebuilt sohc. Dropped it in and it started up real shitty n died out. Just like the engine that was it before.
So i pulled the front cover and re timed it. I have checked all the spark plugs and they all have spark. All emissions are cut and tightly sealed. iv got aftermarket OBX headers on it with no exhaust. Just the headers. Im running a stock intake.
When I have the dizzy in the middle where it should be it starts only for a second. When the dizzy is advanced all the way it will start real strong then dies out quick. If I open the throttle a little it will rev up but once the throttles closed it dies. It just wont idle or stay on.

Now the engine that was in it and this engine run just about the same. So common sense would tell you find what they have in common. The only thing they had in common are ECU, Wiring harness, MAF, Injectors and fuel rail (I used the ones off the old engine) The dizzy, throttle body, and 02 sensor. ECU and wiring harness are new and ECU is saying all is good.

So replace o2, throttle body, MAF, and dizzy? Idk I'm Stuck.

[Driftitsidewayz123]

Yea I made sure my FPR is hooked up real tight. And the rest are closed and sealed.
The car is and has always been a manual (Thank god) I hate messing with cars that were once an automatic.
All grounds are brand new and are connected to bare metal. The engine is also grounded to the chassis with fresh 0 gauge wire.

Tomorrow I will be at the shop working on the car so I will run some codes and I will let you know what I came up with. Thank you again for all the help!

[Driftitsidewayz123]

First, I wanna say thank you for all your help again! I was giving up and was going to sell the car.

Ok so today I got it running. It doesn't run very well but it runs. I can't really tell you how exactly but this is what happened...

I Started the car and it started like shit and died like usual. I pulled the mafs off and tried to start it and it did the same thing for about 4 starts. The 5th time I started it, it shot up and reved to 2200rms and was jumping around 2200-2800rpms for about 15 seconds then backfired real loud and died out. Plugged the mafs in again and engine ran like shit again. so I tried the TPS and the coolant sensor and so on and so forth. till finally it seemed that there was a change each time i pulled a dif. plug meaning all the sensors seemed to be working. So I just plugged it all back in how t should be and went to start it up and it sat and idled at 400-500 rpms for about 20 seconds and died so I screwed my throttle cable a little tighter to keep the throttle body open just a hair and screwed in the idle screw a bit. I went to start it and the engine runs with a jumpy idle between 600-900rpms but will stay on.

Any Ideas on how I should tweek it in and maybe make it run a little better!? Should I try you code thing you posted earlier now that it runs!?

[cotbu]

yeah, check stored codes. you should have codes,... means ecu is working.

It seems, all that is left is base idle adjustment and timing. (IACV & timing gun)

I call that procedure the SHOCKER!


What is The Shocker? It is a type of opener a concise technique for achieving the objectives that an opener should. The Shocker is described using examples and explained in terms of its component parts. But first it is put into context with an explanation of the purpose of openers. No?, but yeah!

[Driftitsidewayz123]

Ahah I didnt quite understand the shocker thing but Im going to check for codes on monday. I just welded a full 3inch exhaust today shit sounds realllllly clean!

[smelly240]

when cranking the ecu fires all of the injectors together...