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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-12-2012, 06:22 PM | #91 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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I'll definitely hit you up when and if I ever get to repainting the car. I'm down to help prep the car and buy supplies. Just dont have the tools or space to do something like this. I still gotta figure out how I'm gonna get my damn engine swap started.
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05-13-2012, 07:03 PM | #92 |
Leaky Injector
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this thread really helped me touch up my engine bay, but i wish i woulda learned how to blend better from new to old paint (faded paint plus new paint means hard line) but now im spraying my bumper and i have wrinkled paint in one spot.....what did i do wrong???
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05-14-2012, 03:56 PM | #93 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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05-15-2012, 09:44 PM | #94 |
finally a good diy paint write up. ive been looking to do this. the guy who gave me my car had filled some spots with body filler and im tired of looking at random white spots. getting the entire car sprayed in az but this will do for now.
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05-20-2012, 11:45 PM | #97 |
Zilvia Junkie
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well if it did that with primer under it you have two causes: 1) your reducer to base coat ratio is off meaning too much reducer. 2) your spraying too much on there and the solvents are causing that. The Fix= sand with 320grit or finer to remove the wrinkled paint, lightly spray primer over the area one coat will do, allow it to dry and lightly scuff sand the primer do not sand it off or sand through it, lightly spray your base coat over the area ( it might take 4 or 5 coats to cover it) <- by lightly spraying this over a problem area the chances are less likely to happen again, be sure to allow a few mins between each coat.
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05-21-2012, 12:38 AM | #100 |
Zilvia Addict
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Nice work. I'll help out with the thread as I make progress on my truck.
I would like to suggest giving a few tips on masking. I would, but I have no pics. An example (since this bothers me the most) when people do a spot repair and just spray primer after the work... not to hardline the area being primed. Fine line tape is one option, but you can also use the 3/4" tape and fold it over... and tape back from the body work, not right next to it. Sorry, I just see so many people have primer puzzle pieces, it really bothers me. Two important tips for anyone doing any of this; -Body work takes time and patience. -A paint job is only as good as it's prep job. It's possible, but usually it will fish eye if there are any oils on it.
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05-21-2012, 07:02 AM | #102 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Fish eyes happen when the surface isnt clean most of the time, wrinkles are caused by solvents. The most common wrinkle happens when the new paint reacts with older paint underneath. Also if you spray too much on one area you risk runs or wrinkling. Mixing too much reducer in the base coat will also cause wrinkles.
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05-24-2012, 11:17 PM | #104 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Well what it really comes down to is are you a paint gun owner or a painter? You can have the best equipment but without the skill you still wont acheive what a skilled painter with a cheap gun can produce. I can spray with whatever you put in my hands, i like to use iwata brand guns ($400 +) with a 1.4 tip for base and 1.8 tip for clear. Devilbliss makes reasonable priced setups that work great. Hvlp guns should spray at 10psi at the cap, around 50psi on the line. Cleaning i break mine down and clean with laquer thinner
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05-25-2012, 05:47 PM | #105 |
Zilvia Addict
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If you have a lifting problem like that (wrinkling) you can sand it down and try primer sealer on the primer also. It will help block the solvents in the paint to the primer.
Dirty surface does not cause lifting. Like buentellomma said, it is usually the new base coat reacting with the primer or factory paint. Most times I have problems with lifting on factory basecoats for Hondas when I'm using Nason. |
05-25-2012, 06:55 PM | #106 |
Leaky Injector
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it was deff an issue of reacting with the old paint, i finally kept sanding and sanding back the org paint till i got it to stop...thanks for all the advice...but i still need more.
i was trying to remove the orange peel, so i took 1500 grit and smoothed it down, then followed with 2000, rubbing compound and polishing compound(applied by hand) and i cant get that high luster back, i know i didnt sand through the clear coat, and i layed down 3 wet coats of clear....any ideas??? |
05-25-2012, 06:59 PM | #107 |
Nissanaholic!
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You need to machine polish it with a wool pad then foam pad. It wouldn't be a bad idea to go over the whole car with 3000grit first too. I've had the same wrinkle issue when i didn't have a thick enough coat of sealer over 2k after bodywork. It's easy to touch up those spot before you clear if you ever run in to that though. As others have said fisheye is usually due to contaminated surfaces. If you try to shoot something like an engine bay that's not clean with single stage without priming/sealing you will get fish eye for sure. You can mix fish eye eliminator into clear and single stage but it's best not to.
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05-25-2012, 09:09 PM | #108 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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05-25-2012, 09:20 PM | #109 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I just wanted to say how awesome a thread this is, and to the OP and any posting guides: thanks You so much!
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05-28-2012, 06:55 PM | #110 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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05-29-2012, 05:51 AM | #112 | |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2010
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05-29-2012, 02:45 PM | #113 | ||||
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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I found this video to be the most helpful (to me at least) on the topic:
the guy's YT channel has a great deal of good information on the subject aswell: mcqueenpaint - YouTube Quote:
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I'm using a cheap HB 1/8 bottom feed gun to shoot primer and it has worked ok for me. For the base and clear I'm going to use a Finnex 3000 with a 1/4 tip. There's a DevilBiss StartingLine gun on hand but the reviews I read are mixed. The Finnex gun seems to be a good choice and value (if you're buying one). All the reviews I read were positive. And if I'm not happy, there's also an Iwata gun I could try. Anyhow, I'm undergoing my first DIY job. Still at the primer stage. (you can see the run on the fender where I sprayed too much primer) |
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05-31-2012, 10:08 AM | #115 |
Nissanaholic!
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A few years ago I painted my car outside in ~90 degree temps. Can't say it was an easy first paint job but it turned out well for what it was, after sanding. I've painted a few cars and many other things since then. It does get fun once you're good at it.
Recent photo- car is very dirty but you get the idea. |
05-31-2012, 06:24 PM | #116 |
Zilvia Addict
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Great stuff in here....very good tips but always remember prep is key. There are things you cant see when primer is applied. When basecoat is appled it all jumps out.
One thing I don't agree with OP is using single stage paint. Maybe for a car yo may not care that much about yes. But not cars for attention. I know you can use single stage urethane paint and then go over with urethane clear. But still single stage is for taxis and shit.
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05-31-2012, 06:38 PM | #117 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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05-31-2012, 07:06 PM | #118 |
Zilvia Addict
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I would not say promoting but it was mentioned.
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06-04-2012, 01:51 PM | #119 | |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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it's flimsy as f**k and difficult to get the drop clothes to stay I think that screwing pieces of 1x2 wood along the top of the wall and stapling drop clothes to that would be a better way to go or if I were to build another structure, make it out of 2x4s or something more rigid the two boxes on the corners you see are 20x20" the fans/filters fit in there perfectly masked the car during the weekend (that was a royal pain in the ass) and sprayed a coat of build up primer that I need to clean up in a few places before spraying a second coat contemplating buying aerosol cans of primer to get the under side of the wing. thoughts? |
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06-04-2012, 03:45 PM | #120 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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