2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[dpkid101]

Those 290s are guna be MEAN!

[turbob16ef]

290s....Golly. That must not be a street car anymore.

[Deftec]

It'll still be tagged/insured/street legal.

[AS240]

Originally Posted by Deftec

Deftec, do you think a billet tensioner bracket is necessary for a 500whp setup (drifting)? My neighbor swears that the stock ones fail all the time, but I have actually yet to see it happen. Of course he is in the 800+whp in his supra so I could see them being more prone to failure at those power levels.

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by AS240

Deftec, do you think a billet tensioner bracket is necessary for a 500whp setup (drifting)? .

I would say yes ONLY if you have a gates racing timing belt (or something similar). I say that due to they are little more tighter from my searching through the supra forums.

*Only problem I ran into was with the timings belt tension bolt (allen head bolt) backing out and caused the timing belt to lock up the motor. I tore the motor apart thing it seized and found out it was the timing belt. I was 450-500whp stock block built head. oem timing belt

[AS240]

Did you have locktite on that bolt? The fsm specifies to put it on.
And I do have the blue gates belt.

[Deftec]

I ran 600+hp on the stock tensioner for several years, but it might have been pure luck it never gave out.

[xoxide]

Anyone need a 1jz ECU (with driftmotion capacitor fix), or 1jz ignitor?

[reynas14]

I need a R154!!! lol

[Black R]

Anybody gone to a hard line for the turbo oil feed with aftermarket turbo(s)?

My steel braided Teflon oil feed line broke on the inside after I moved it a bit while working on the car - after only a year - from the heat.

I was going to put a fire sleeve on the new line, but then I started thinking that it would be better to just have a hard line there instead, right?

[turbob16ef]

Ive seen plenty of people use hardline for aftermarket feed for that reason. Most stock turbo cars come with hardline, shouldnt be no different.

[reynas14]

Ok guys I got my twins off! Also removed the ac compressor and need to make a we bracket for supporting the ps pump. Gunna clean the block up some too, oily and deserves a good washin :-) just waiting on my crank bolt holder and the gates belt, gates tensioner, and water pump to come

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by reynas14

Ok guys I got my twins off! Also removed the ac compressor and need to make a we bracket for supporting the ps pump. Gunna clean the block up some too, oily and deserves a good washin :-) just waiting on my crank bolt holder and the gates belt, gates tensioner, and water pump to come

How long did it take you to remove your turbos?

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by ivantheterribl3

What are my transmission options for a 5spd? I know r154 amd w58 with the right bell housong, but are there any others? And what usdm cars could I find any of them in? Thanks

If you want it to be easy, R154 and/or W58 are your best bets. R154 is significantly stronger than the W58, and should you ever have an issue, there are tonnes of upgrades available.

There are a handful of different ways to source a trans, with the easiest one more than likely being to find an MKIII Turbo Supra in a junkyard/wrecker/etc. From there, you'd need a shifter extension and the correct bell housing, but depending on what you pay for the trans, it might end up being the cheapest route.

Otherwise, you can try to find a W58 from an SC300 or NA MKIV Supra, but that's not exactly easy, and the trans could decide to self destruct if you push too much power through it. (They would have the correct bell housing and may require shifter mods, but I'm not sure)

There's also the option of sourcing one a trans from an importer, in which case, a JZX90 R154 Transmission is probably your best bet as it comes with a shifter in the perfect spot for swapping into an S-Chassis. The only thing that sucks here is that the trans could run you some decent coin, probably $750 on the low end, and $1.1k - $1.2k on the high end.

Something that's getting a bit more common lately is running a Z33 Trans behind a 1J/2J. The adapter kit is something like $500 dollars and the Transmissions can be had new for something like $1.5k and used for ~half that. If I ever feel the need for a different trans behind my 1J, I'd probably go the Z33 route, since the only other option would be a V160... Which is unreasonably expensive considering the value of the car.

[reynas14]

Originally Posted by Chronicle

How long did it take you to remove your turbos?

Man I was hoping no one would ask haha it took me probably about 4 or 5 hours. Granted im working out of my parents garage since I dont have one :-( but still there are a lot of little things to take off such as brackets, turbo piping in the way of bolts. I think there was a time I was removing a part to get to a part that let me loosen a bolt to remove something to get to another bolt haha but it was funa and I learned a lot of how they had it working. Super fun dude

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by reynas14

Man I was hoping no one would ask haha it took me probably about 4 or 5 hours. Granted im working out of my parents garage since I dont have one :-( but still there are a lot of little things to take off such as brackets, turbo piping in the way of bolts. I think there was a time I was removing a part to get to a part that let me loosen a bolt to remove something to get to another bolt haha but it was funa and I learned a lot of how they had it working. Super fun dude

Yeah, once I pick up my engine that's the first thing I want to tackle.

Originally Posted by thefro526

Something that's getting a bit more common lately is running a Z33 Trans behind a 1J/2J. The adapter kit is something like $500 dollars and the Transmissions can be had new for something like $1.5k and used for ~half that. If I ever feel the need for a different trans behind my 1J, I'd probably go the Z33 route, since the only other option would be a V160... Which is unreasonably expensive considering the value of the car.

I've seen small bits of info about this, but the pages I look at make the swap seem much more expensive than this.

http://collinsadapters.com/index.php...-steel-61.html

They have more of a "bolt on" kit on the site, claiming lots of custom parts. But the variety of clutch options seem off, where the only really streetable option only holds 425 crank tq.

http://collinsadapters.com/index.php...ption-kit.html

Also, what else would need to be done for the transmission to correctly mount in an S13/14?

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by AS240

Did you have locktite on that bolt? The fsm specifies to put it on.
And I do have the blue gates belt.

Yes I did, even though you shouldn't due to they come with loctite on the tensioner bolt from the dealer. Didn't over tighten by a couple lbs either since they can cause it to back out as well.

[reynas14]

In the process of taking all the vsv stuff and the non needed electronics and wires and thingsoff of the engine but I havhaving trouble determining what I can and cant take off when going single. Im also getting a new harness if that matters too. Could someone give me some pointers? Thanks guys

[ATLspeed]

Reynas14 - Only sensors I have on my motor

Intake Side
- knock sensor 1 & 2
- camshaft sensors 1 & 2
- MAP
- TPS
- IAT
- Injectors
- Coil Packs
- Oil pressure
- IACV

Exhaust Side
- o2 sensor
- coolant temp sensor (on water neck)
- gauge sensor (on water neck)
- Alternator
- Crankshaft Position Sensor

[Flicktitty]

damn Deftec, new setup should be pretty damn stout! In for results!

Also about the billet timing belt tensioner, I asked Reid at Sound Performance about that in January when i was discussing my setup and redoing the timing setup and he said it would be overkill with 500whp.

[Mr. Phonso]

Maybe these idler brackets break because the hydraulic tensioner is worn causing it to 'bounce' on it. Like a hammering effect, I could see why they sometimes break. I can't imagine them breaking from solely having a gates timing belt on.

[reynas14]

ATLspeed thank you I will be going over my engine tomorrow removing whats not on that list. Also phonso you make sense, I read many pages ago (just got to page 60 so still late to the party) that it broke locking up a motor. I really dont want that to happen so I got the gates timing belt, gates tensioners and gates h2o pump in hopes that it helps some. Of course it could just be a yota brand with gates on the name. Similar to what greddy does with gates belts. Fingers crossed though boyz! Haha

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

Maybe these idler brackets break because the hydraulic tensioner is worn causing it to 'bounce' on it. Like a hammering effect, I could see why they sometimes break. I can't imagine them breaking from solely having a gates timing belt on.

Precisely why i changed out both. I figured if i was going in to change the timing belt why not change the bracket and tensioner? they arent expensive at all.

[AS240]

Got a nice package in from Freed the other day.

And here is what it's all for.

Now I'm just waiting on some parts to get back from the powder coater to put everything on and get it bolted into the car.

[AS240]

As far as the power steering pump bracket, I don't know if anybody has brought this up, but it can be done with just some stuff laying around.
Using the stock lower bracket and a DIY spacer should do the job.
In this case, a 3/8 socket is a perfect fit where the AC compressor would be normally. Buy a set of trash sockets from Harbor Fail or autozone and drill out the square socket insert and you should be fine.
What I'm talking about....

^^^cant get this pic to rotate for some reason WTF


That socket fits perfectly. NO I don't intend on using it. I'm just showing that making some sort of spacer using the bracket already there seems easier than fabing up an elaborate bracket and finding your own hardware.
I'm going to give a local CNC shop here a call in the morning and give them measurements and find out what something like that would cost. I'll keep you guys posted...

[BiG MiKE86]

^^Very nice... Didnt know Freed was doing harness conversions. How much was teh AEM if you dont mind me asking?

[91ka24]

Mine is almost ready, I will say this. This time I'm using the xcessive brackets and they are much much better then the myjzswap brackets I was using. Motor sits in there great! I'm also running just solid aluminum mounts off eBay.



And I'm also running the driftmotion oil cooler kit

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

Mine is almost ready, I will say this. This time I'm using the xcessive brackets and they are much much better then the myjzswap brackets I was using. Motor sits in there great! I'm also running just solid aluminum mounts off eBay.



And I'm also running the driftmotion oil cooler kit

What thermostat are you running on the oil cooler? Does it come with the driftmotion kit?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[91ka24]

It's built in with the sandwich plate. I believe it's 180 deg, or 160. I can't remember, it's on their site though

[93egallmotor]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

Mine is almost ready, I will say this. This time I'm using the xcessive brackets and they are much much better then the myjzswap brackets I was using. Motor sits in there great! I'm also running just solid aluminum mounts off eBay.



And I'm also running the driftmotion oil cooler kit

what did you search for on ebay to find the solid mounts? i have the excessive kit and was going to use oem mounts from my 1jz but they are thrashed. im confused on what mounts i should be searching for lol