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12-28-2013, 08:32 AM | #1 |
Zilvia Member
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S13 1UZFE - Street Shark in Progress (vhate)
I once was a young lad that fell in love with the s-chassis. I lurked the forums for years until I finally made an account, and then started looking for my own little 240. (used to stick mainly to 240sxforums, but activity has been dead there for a while I guess. So I'm finally starting a thread here.)
They're pretty rare to come by around here, and one day on my way to school I saw one parked outside the police department covered in snow. Stopped just to take a look at it and saw a piece of paper on the window with info on the police auction. FUCK YEAH. Got it for $1500 after they told me no problems and that it ran fine. It didnt run fine. I didnt know enough at the time, but I assumed it was either a head gasket or bad rings so I decided to tear the KA out. (When I first got it) You know how things go, It got put off and has sat for 5 years. I started doing the little things like fender wire tuck, sleepy eyes controller, gauge lights, and stupid shit a high schooler would do in his free time. Despite the clean interior I started on the half gut. Wasn't even old enough to buy dry ice. After a lot of back and forth research, I decided that a 1uz would be a great option for my budget. ~250hp/tq, lightweight, and very balanced. The v8 sound is just an added bonus! Got a little ambition and got more intensive with it by pulling the motor, cutting the rust, yada yada. Cleaning it up and getting ready to turn it into a real build. Starting with this big gundle of grand daddy purp mouse nest I sold my thunderbird and got a partially complete s13 1uz swap from FidelCashflo here on the forums. Motor after picking it up, loading it into the shed backwoods hillbilly style. After paint Flywheel, tranny mount, ecu, ignitors Adapter plate, clutch, etc. And recently started my fusebox relocation/wire tuck I'll get back to this later tonight. Last edited by Panda-Eats-240; 11-06-2015 at 01:06 AM.. |
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12-30-2013, 03:23 AM | #2 |
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in for the shark part
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01-01-2014, 02:49 PM | #4 |
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Updates will be coming real soon, I've been pretty low on spending money lately but this week I'll be ordering up some parts.
Last edited by Panda-Eats-240; 11-06-2015 at 01:07 AM.. |
01-01-2014, 02:53 PM | #5 |
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When I got the motor the intake plenum was cracked off, the pressure plate is worn and blued, and he never sent me my motor mounts nor refunded me in any way shape or form for the intake. Gotta love it, but oh well..
If anybody has any tips/tricks or wanna chime in on the swap be my guest, I haven't had a whole lot of people to talk to about it and it would be nice. |
01-02-2014, 06:00 PM | #6 | |
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I bought their triple plate and their adaptor was hella messed, cost me a transmission. Ended up going with a 3sgte flywheel, sr20det clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. Grabs nice. What year is your engine? |
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01-02-2014, 09:22 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Motor I was told was from a 96 LS400. It's a new custom flywheel, sr 6-puck clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. So looks like we've basically got the same setup eh? I hope I don't find any new problems with the parts when it comes time to put it all together. Flywheel would be my main concern. |
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01-03-2014, 05:35 AM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
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Lol that wiring looks interesting.... I thought i had it bad!!!
Loving the 1UZ |
01-03-2014, 05:44 AM | #9 |
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You're tellin me... I got excited and pulled everything apart before labeling a single plug. So it's interesting to say the least to get it all sorted out again. Eh, just a mistake I won't make the second time around!
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01-04-2014, 02:03 AM | #10 |
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Glad more and more people are going 1uz now. I myself doing that swap and finally got the last part to drop in the motor, all I need to do if figure out the wiring. That I don't what to mess with since I'll have no clue what would I be doing lol.
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01-04-2014, 02:26 PM | #11 |
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It was also from my understanding that If you extend the throwout release sleeve 1/2"-5/8" then you do NOT need to machine down your bellhousing. Yay or nay?
Last edited by Panda-Eats-240; 11-06-2015 at 01:11 AM.. |
01-06-2014, 08:42 PM | #13 |
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yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far.
edit: shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine. DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using. |
01-07-2014, 01:57 AM | #14 |
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Loving the build thread!! I'm doing a S13 1uz aswell.
The engine I see hanging from the tree looks like it's from a SC400. The LS400 has the oil pan in the front, not the back. Besides that, it is looking great! |
01-07-2014, 07:26 AM | #15 | ||
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2. That is fine, That's how mine looks. 3. YOU have to messure to see if you need to mill your housing. I extended my TOB AND milled my housing. Quote:
See the blue thing? I only had, maybe 1/2in of penetration. That was before milling. Also, DO NOT FORGET YOUR SPACERS FOR YOUR FLYWHEEL. |
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01-07-2014, 12:44 PM | #16 | |||
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I read somewhere that nissans dont use the bearings, and it would only make sense that it's meant to replace the whole thing given the dimensions of the bushing. Shoguner just clarified it for me Quote:
I was told that it's an LS motor but he had switched pans with the SC for whatever reason, thanks! Quote:
I also wasn't aware of needing any flywheel spacers |
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01-07-2014, 01:42 PM | #17 |
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why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..
oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol |
01-08-2014, 08:59 AM | #18 | |
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01-09-2014, 09:44 AM | #19 | ||
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350z you HAVE to measure. Quote:
There are 2. A smaller one and a bigger one, i am not sure which one i used haha. |
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01-09-2014, 11:30 AM | #20 | |
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Quote:
Ahhhh you must be thinking I'm using the Z tranny, I'm using an SR20 tranny so as far as I know I don't need any spacers or anything besides the extended TOB and it should end up in the factory location, if not the most I'd have to do is shorten my driveshaft/get a new one piece made that's 2" shorter. |
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01-09-2014, 03:20 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
But i would double measure everything, just in case. |
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01-10-2014, 03:44 AM | #23 |
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Welp, got a mini parts package.
4age arp flywheel bolts as I'm not sure if I trust what he sold me Arp pressure plate bolts (same reason as above) Auto to manual clutch line Clutch fork boot, fork retainer clip, and throw out retainer clip Throw out bearing Drift button and tein air fresheners hamanahamana Backup pan so i can work on welding trap doors into one of them. So now all I really need is a manual driveshaft, tranny crossmember, and 1uz wiring harness (I do still need motor mounts, FidelCashflo still owes me them which will probably never happen.) And to finish my wiring mess. Last edited by Panda-Eats-240; 11-06-2015 at 01:18 AM.. |
01-10-2014, 04:55 PM | #24 |
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My extended throwout was welded like shit and barely even welded on one side. So I beefed that up
But this is what I'm talking about it being welded on rotated a little with the knobs It probably doesn't matter as long as its actually centered, but I don't wanna run into any problems later.. Also cut my starter bolt heads down, put new retainer clips on, and hammered the throwout bearing onto the sleeve (All of this today on lunch break at work) Side note: Here's a little project I'm doing at work. Full custom interior on a 1927 Chevy I believe. Just cutting and forming the panels that'll soon get clips added and then foamed and fabric over. The only shot of the seats that I have on my phone, it has two benches with big curves backs like this |
01-12-2014, 06:03 AM | #25 |
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Picking up a light rack for the garage tomorrow and finding a heater.
I started to rig up all my parts (flywheel, throttle bearing, fork, boot, clutch slave with braided auto to manual line, etc) and will drill out the holes for the clutch master when I'm not being a lazy ass. I noticed that 1uz's come in front, rear, and mid sump. So I have the mid sump correct? I'm wondering if it will clear the rack, though it probably doesn't. It would just save another weeks time with the project as I don't know yet everything I'll need to convert it to front sump (just the pan and pickup tube?). |
01-12-2014, 12:57 PM | #26 |
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It wont clear the rack. The front sump with the collins (or anyone elses) mounts just BARELY clear the rack. You need the LS400 front sump setup. You could check Supra 1uz forums since they need the rear setup.
The wiring is actually pretty easy. You just gotta set up a couple relays and fuses. Let me know if that conversion clutch line fits. I remember it being just long enough for the stock setup and this one will place the slave cylinder just 2 inches further back.
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01-12-2014, 07:02 PM | #27 | |
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Quote:
Balls. I'll have to call a couple scrapyards as well, thanks for the tip I'll deal with the wiring once the motor is ready/almost ready to be dropped in, dont want nunna dat stress right now.. So you're saying a 1UZ mounted to an SR tranny will indeed need to be placed 2" back? I do plan on a sikky sway bar if that's what makes a difference in getting stock positioning. Last edited by Panda-Eats-240; 01-13-2014 at 04:16 AM.. |
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01-12-2014, 07:19 PM | #28 |
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Because of the motor mounts, it places the transmission 2" back from where it originally sat. That's why you need to have a little piece added to your transmission xmember (because only 1 bolt hole lines up) and have a shortened driveshaft made.
Incase you didn't know, we have a nice little chat/thread on the 1uz. http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/3303...s-chassis.html
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01-12-2014, 08:20 PM | #29 |
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motor mounts are pretty cake to custom make..
on my setup were custom made 3/8ths metal plates, one on the crossmember and the other bolted up to the motor, and a 3/8th thick metal tube going between, welded up with a nut on the inside of the crossmember plate. so i can thread a bolt and washer in from the bottom side of the crossmember, where the original mounts bolted up. works mint, kept the original trans mount and driveshaft length and all. just didnt leave much room up front but it works just fine as far as im concerned. wiring was pretty easy as well. i did 3 toggles, racecar style 1st toggle for cranking purposes, ign wire from the dash harness wasnt getting power anymore for me(no idea why), otherwise you can just use the orange wire. that comes off the ecu and plugs into the dash. 2nd toggle & relay for the fuel pump. 3rd toggle is for all the switched powers you're supposed to have. the ecu constant power is just a wire ran straight from the plug on the chassis, i believe its a big red wire, on the gray plug. just cut that and run er to the motor harness connect eb1 i think? double check. and bam. motor cranks and fires right up! but yeah, my motor came with a mid sump pan, i ordered the whole pan setup from ebay, costed like 200, couldve got it cheaper from the j-yard.. but oh well. you need the upper and lower pan, strainer and gasket.. easy change out. and i am using an sr20 tranny as well so thats why i was curious about the whole measuring thing with the clutch engagement. oh btw, i just took the front sway bar out, because my motor sits too close and pan hits the bar, ive heard sikky bars work fine, but also heard they arent even needed.. no difference made without the front bar.. |
01-13-2014, 05:02 AM | #30 | ||
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Quote:
Also before I order one, do I really even need a 5-speed crossmember or can the auto be easily modified especially if I end up making plates to move it back? Quote:
I think I'd like to do the same wiring setup, it might be easiest now that I've got everything de-loomed and clipped out a bunch of the wiring for things not used on the chassis. But I'm still wondering what the easiest and simplest wiring setup would be now that the only things I need are pop-up motors, tail lights, turn signals, interior lights, gauge cluster, etc. I got rid of the heater, blower, AC, auto seatbelts, auto tranny wiring, speaker wiring (will be running new wire for a front component system that'll be installed the after car is running), and all the non essentials to a street-able track car. I'd really like to get rid of the wiring mess in the drivers kick panel if possible, I believe that's the SMJ with all the wires going into a plastic block? I've heard no front sway isn't bad with coils, but I've also heard your steering response will suck regardless.. I might not have coils right away so I think I'd like to play it safe and try to run a sikky while keeping the tranny in the factory location so I don't need to extend the crossmember mounts or shorten the driveshaft. I'd be fine with notching the pan a little if needed. Sorry for all the questions, this is my first swap and no build I've seen gives out all the info needed, so thanks for all the help. Maybe all the fine details will be layed out in here for future swaps. |
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