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Old 05-07-2016, 08:59 PM   #1
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HELP: RB clutch on KA24DE not disengaging

I've got an ACT RB20/25 HD street clutch kit (pressure plate / clutch) mated with RB20/25 XTD light weight flywhee setup that WILL NOT disengage. I've tried just about everything, new slave, new master cycliner, adjusted clutch pedal, bled the system, NADA. Only thing I can think of is that the ACT RB series clutch kits don't work on our car/tranny. I've read SPEC RB series worked with the XTD flywheel, and that 350/G35 ACT kits work with the XTD RB series flywheel, but have not seen anyone running the ACT RB series clutch kits. Anyone have any other suggestions before I scrap this brand new (sitting in box since 2015 so cant return) ACT RB series clutch kit / flywheel and just pick up KA kit? Thinking of going white bunny setup but I'm not a fan of CC.

Thanks for the input.

Last edited by 2.5T_/<ouki; 05-08-2016 at 02:15 PM..
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:57 AM   #2
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And to add to that, the clutch pedal is impossible to depress. There is so much pressure built up in the lines (I've bled numerous times) that I'm literally bending the clutch pedal bracket.
-- I do not have the clutch dampener either.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:50 PM   #3
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Any help?
Basically, not sure if it matters, but i noticed that getting the PP onto the flywheel WITH the clutch disk installed is VERRRRRY difficult, took 2 of us. ALmost as if the clutch disk is too thick or somethings not right? With the clutch disk installed and trying to put the PP on, it BARELY catches on the edge of the dowel pins.

is this normal? I cannot move the clutch fork by hand either. Not even the slightest. Never had a this problem nor any problem with clutch installs.

Without the clutch disc installed, the PP plate sits on it fine.

WITHOUT clutch disk


WITH clutch disk installed
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:19 PM   #4
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You've got it wrong for starters.

You can't use the RB pressure plate and clutch on a ka setup.

Use the RB flywheel and a z32 clutch setup. Sell the other shit that can't be used
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:36 PM   #5
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You're missing information. Is the clutch a push type of pull type? pull type RB from an RB26 does not fit.
Have you checked your throw out bearing? When the transmission was out, did you make the sure the fork moves back into place if you push it?
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kruked View Post
You've got it wrong for starters.

You can't use the RB pressure plate and clutch on a ka setup.

Use the RB flywheel and a z32 clutch setup. Sell the other shit that can't be used
I've heard of the z32 / z33 clutch setups on the RB flywheel. There is a member on the KA-T forums running RB flywheel / RB clutch kit on his KA. Post #9

http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=54081
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxExperience View Post
You're missing information. Is the clutch a push type of pull type? pull type RB from an RB26 does not fit.
Have you checked your throw out bearing? When the transmission was out, did you make the sure the fork moves back into place if you push it?
Not sure what you're referring too, sorry If i made a typo. This is an RB20/RB25 clutch kit (NS3-HDSS) http://www.advancedclutch.com/ns3-hdss

I checked my throw out bearing yes and all is well. When the tranny was out and the fork was on the pivot ball/TOB, it did move slightly back after pushing on it. When I mate the tranny to the block, the fork/tob rests agains the PP teeth and I cannot for the life of my push the fork by hand, nor pry it with a bar (i get it's a heavy duty and uses hydrolics).
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:34 PM   #8
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I'd check from the throwout bearing backwards. Your PP and clutch setup seems to be okay. Either the throwout bearing isn't engaging and keeps seizing somewhere or theres air in the system. Did you do a manual swap on your car or was it an original manual?
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxExperience View Post
I'd check from the throwout bearing backwards. Your PP and clutch setup seems to be okay. Either the throwout bearing isn't engaging and keeps seizing somewhere or theres air in the system. Did you do a manual swap on your car or was it an original manual?
Yeah I did an auto to manual swap on my ride. I suppose I can try bleeding the system more, but I spent a good amount of time on it.
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:49 PM   #10
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Did you adjust the clutch pedal rod so its not engaging the clutch when the pedal is up? When you bleed the system, does the slave have enough strength to push the fork?
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxExperience View Post
Did you adjust the clutch pedal rod so its not engaging the clutch when the pedal is up? When you bleed the system, does the slave have enough strength to push the fork?
Yeah adjusted the clutch rod as well, does not have enough pressure to move the fork at all. At this point, I can't even depress the pedal as there is so much pressure in the line; pedal/bracket starts to bend.
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:10 PM   #12
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Did you remove the automatic bushing and replace it with a pilot bushing?
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Did you remove the automatic bushing and replace it with a pilot bushing?
Did not have to as the block/crank I'm using was already from a M/T. I'm using the head/accessories from the s14 auto.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:57 PM   #14
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Bled the system some more and was able to actually get pedal movement. Appears the clutch slave cylinder is toast as it's leaking from the dust boot. Gonnna purchase new master/slave. I truly appreciate all your help. Got the car started for the first time today! Super excited, not sure if it's ALREADY got rod knock OR still has something to do with the clutch.

Click the pics for the video. Hard to tell in this vid. I mostly hear the clanking on the Intake side.



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