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Old 08-07-2008, 10:36 AM   #1
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couple of built redtop problems! need help ASAP!

alright well first of all its a fuly built engine, running only 12-13 pounds off the wastegate (12lb srping, no boost controller) when im really getting on it on the highway, it always sputters at fully boost. MY guess is that i need a bigger spring maybe 20lb?? and hook up my boost controller. ALSO this is a little worse, again when im getting on it hard, the dip stick pops out (only the yellow parts comes out but you can see a little bit of the actual dipstick) and a little bit of oil sprays out. MY guess is that i need to replace the o-rings or get a new dip stick??? i would love to know what the **** is up haha Thanks everybody
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Old 08-07-2008, 11:02 AM   #2
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Dip stick poping out is a sign of excessive blow by or the routing of your PCV system is not right or there is a restriction in the PCV system somewhere or yoru pressurizing the crankcase with an incorrect routing of hose.
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Old 08-07-2008, 11:25 AM   #3
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how can that be tho??? i have a catch can, on thr right side of the T goes to the catch can, Left side of T is a breather and then i got another hose running from the case to the catch can.. ALRIGHt i just went and looked at it and the hose from the catch that goes to the PCV valve was maybe a half of cm on the actuall vlave fitting. could that be the problem???
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Old 08-07-2008, 01:10 PM   #4
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You need an engine rebuild do a compression test and see what happens odds are your compression is not going to be good
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Old 08-07-2008, 04:30 PM   #5
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the engine has less then 600 miles on it tho
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Old 08-07-2008, 04:41 PM   #6
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Sounds like a PCV system failure. Either your PCV valve is leaking pretty bad, or you hooked something up wrong.

Is it possible that you have your valve cover vent hooked up to your intercooler system ?
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:27 PM   #7
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alright well first of all its a fuly built engine, running only 12-13 pounds off the wastegate (12lb srping, no boost controller) when im really getting on it on the highway, it always sputters at fully boost. MY guess is that i need a bigger spring maybe 20lb?? and hook up my boost controller.
It doesn't make any sense to up the spring or hook up your boost controller if it's sputtering. Check the spark plug gaps.

Some more info would be helpful: injector size, ecu: what psi is it tuned for?
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:19 PM   #8
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THE valve cover is not hooked up to the intercooler. I changed it up to the "correct" spot and the dipstick still pops out.

I checked the gap, there plug an play Iridiums. loked like its running lean tho but local shop is tuning it here soon. The injectors are RC 880cc, ecu is a Power FC. and im pretty sure its tuned for about 20psi. when it hits about 13 is when it starts sputtering
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:28 PM   #9
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I checked the gap, there plug an play Iridiums. loked like its running lean tho but local shop is tuning it here soon. The injectors are RC 880cc, ecu is a Power FC. and im pretty sure its tuned for about 20psi. when it hits about 13 is when it starts sputtering
So is it tuned or not? Either way don't keep pushing it unless you're sure of what's going on. Maybe PM Steve Shadows
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:48 PM   #10
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haha noooooo it is tuned! im just having the shop REtune and get it dialed back in. whos steve shadowS?????
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:57 PM   #11
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http://zilvia.net/f/members/steve-shadows.html

He might be able to answer until your tuner can REtune it for you.
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:22 AM   #12
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THE valve cover is not hooked up to the intercooler. I changed it up to the "correct" spot and the dipstick still pops out.

I checked the gap, there plug an play Iridiums. loked like its running lean tho but local shop is tuning it here soon. The injectors are RC 880cc, ecu is a Power FC. and im pretty sure its tuned for about 20psi. when it hits about 13 is when it starts sputtering

WTF? Are you dumb as shit? If the car isnt running right at 13-14 psi, you already saw the spark plugs and you think your running lean, do you really think pushing it to 20 psi on the same tune is gonna fix it?!?! Yah itll fix it because you'll blow the fucking engine and you'll need a rebuild again.

If everything is hooked up in your car correctly and the dipstick is still popping out, time to do a leak down test...guess is you didnt break in the engine properly and the rings didnt seal completely. So here's the question, if the engine currently has 600 miles on it, how long did you break it in before you stated mashing on it?!?!
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:22 AM   #13
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im not fucking dumb, im not gonna push 20lbs. and Zerolift who built it ran it fo about 500 miles. andi guess when they tuned it they put it on the dyno and ran 22psi. im guessing thats where it fucked up the rings. i rove it for about 100 miles and i was easy on it till ike last week i was gettin harder on it but not crazy hard
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:16 AM   #14
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compression from front to rear was 150,150,150,130 sooo??
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:39 AM   #15
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130, theres your answer...fresh rebuilt SR shouldnt have that low of a compression. Hell even 150 across the board is low for a fresh SR.
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Old 08-10-2008, 04:46 PM   #16
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woah yea i agree,130?? somethin inside went bonkers lol time to taker back apart i think
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:28 PM   #17
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yep that will also make your turbo harder to spool and like i said befor your engine is toast 150 is even low try pouring some oil down the spark plug holes and see if the compression goes up at all if it does then the moter is gone start rebuilding
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Old 08-12-2008, 06:46 AM   #18
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150 is not low FSM Standard is 156, Minimum is 130 with a limit of 14 between cylinders.

When I finished building my SR, I used a 1.5mil H/G after break in mine was 150ish

Almost every SR I've compression tested was always 150

So yeah running your engine lean with destroy your piston rings
why only #4 is the lowest is pretty weird

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Old 08-12-2008, 10:18 PM   #19
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damnnnnnn this sucks lol well ill see how much id would be at Mead. so i would only have to replace the rings? hopefully?
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Old 08-14-2008, 07:31 PM   #20
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damnnnnnn this sucks lol well ill see how much id would be at Mead. so i would only have to replace the rings? hopefully?
sadly, theres much more to it than that.. Your welcome to try and re-use the headgasket but if its metal, I highly recommend a new one. At the same time, block and head need to be decked (re-surfaced). New bearings should really be done as well as a micropolish on the crank and hone of the cylinder walls. I would be furious and contacting the guys that put it together.
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Old 08-14-2008, 07:33 PM   #21
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yeah what he said ubove you got alot of wrk ahed of you my friend and i would deffnetly kick some ass on whoever put your engine together
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:18 PM   #22
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do your work yourself and not let zerolift to the work for you, if your in central ohio take it to m&m machine they know how to build sr's right, meade and most performance shops use him
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:31 PM   #23
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somebody asked who steve was on here. have him tune your car. he's great! met him on saturday to do my tune and spun a rod bearing in the process. that's what these old engines do...they give you shit. anyways he knows his stuff and would recommend sending him a pm.
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:03 PM   #24
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I would be happy to help.

Ill post the picture up of the inside of the oil pan soon hopefully....classic sr20det oil pick up meets the inside of the oil pan, oil starvation taking it back to sr 101 on that one.

Explains a lot of the issues later in the day, lack of oil pressure, engine running hot and of course the obvious noise.


We'll get her back together, Mike is a great guy just be nice to him for all his hard work to help out on this.


anyone is welcome to PM me for specific questions any time though

When I have time i will respond in a prompt manner

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Old 09-05-2008, 11:33 AM   #25
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not too smart wit these things but he said engine sputters how bout a mass airflow sensor my car sputterd i changed the maf an bang runnin mint but just wannted to say something idk what it is good luck an kick ass
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:17 AM   #26
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WTF? Are you dumb as shit? If the car isnt running right at 13-14 psi, you already saw the spark plugs and you think your running lean, do you really think pushing it to 20 psi on the same tune is gonna fix it?!?! Yah itll fix it because you'll blow the fucking engine and you'll need a rebuild again.

If everything is hooked up in your car correctly and the dipstick is still popping out, time to do a leak down test...guess is you didnt break in the engine properly and the rings didnt seal completely. So here's the question, if the engine currently has 600 miles on it, how long did you break it in before you stated mashing on it?!?!

You can't blow up a stock sr20det engine by over boosting the T25, at least not if you properly upgraded your fuel pump to provide advanced pressure over stock. That little POS compressor is dead and is just overheating the intake charge and the crappy stock IC after about 12.5-13.5 psi max.

With a gap of .030 you should be good for turbos that move 55+ CFMs in there low efficiency peak ranges. Just make sure all your grounds are secure on your ignition harness.

Most stock sr20dets blow because of horrid oem engine harnesses, or corroded injector output wires causing sporatic spray at higher rpms and vibrations.

For the dipstick I would suggest making sure your crankcase is hooked up to vaccum. IE there a hose going from your Crank vent to your oil catch can, then to the stock valve cover T and then into the intake of the turbo.

CHeers
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:32 AM   #27
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whos steve shadowS?????
i don't know how to put this........but he's kind of a big deal

he's very important, has many leather bound books, and his apartment smells for rich mahogany
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:53 AM   #28
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My aparment smells of Hop devil IPA, Stoli and burnt latex...and my far left liberal room mates stale farts...sigh ahh the post college bachelor life.

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Old 12-24-2008, 12:26 PM   #29
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130, theres your answer...fresh rebuilt SR shouldnt have that low of a compression. Hell even 150 across the board is low for a fresh SR.
That's not true at all.

130 is pretty standard for an SR tht has not been heat cycled much and is running a beefier head gasket.

anything over 155 or so and I would be worried- it's all about consistancy-

Make sure when you did the comp test your TB was floored open, when it's not it's common to see the last cylinder in the back with a lower reading.
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