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Old 05-15-2008, 01:07 PM   #1
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Arrow Turbo Flange Gaskets (T25/28/3/4/whatever)

So I've been talking with a buddy of mine that has blown his fair share of T25 gaskets (turbo flange to manifold). I blew mine last night (also T25) when I turned the boost up and went to the mountain. Ugh... ghey. He told me about these guys:

http://www.remflex.com/index.htm

Seems like a good idea, but I'm not convinced. There's also the stainless gasket, and I also noticed Cometic makes a gasket as well.

Stainless


Cometic



A good friend of mine that's had numerous 5-600+ whp cars always uses copper RTV and has good luck. The other side of that, is an actual copper gasket. I've seen them on eGay, but I'd probably get a sheet of copper and cut out my own.




Other option is this stuff I saw some time ago on JGS Turbo's site. It's Rutland 77 Stove and Gasket Cement. Good to 2000*. Made for stove gaskets and also metal to metal repairs up to like, 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch. Obviously, that would depend on pressure, and for it, or copper RTV to work, it would have to be thin.




Thoughts? What have you guys had good luck with? I had the mani flange leveled before putting it on, and I would hope the cast turbo flange is level, but I may check it just for shiggles.
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:16 PM   #2
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I use this and have never had a problem!!! Just go the easy Route and its also cheaper. Any of your local parts stores carries this.
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:27 PM   #3
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I use this and have never had a problem!!! Just go the easy Route and its also cheaper. Any of your local parts stores carries this.
What's your setup?

I have a SSAC Manifold (I know, I know...) and a stock T25. I've also heard I need to get the mount from the DP to the transmission connected to cut down on vibrations and movement...
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:32 PM   #4
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Im running it on a stroked Rb25 Stock Cast manifold an t28 turbine. No problems for 2 years.

Now my buddy uses the same copper stuff on his mustang. 302sbf turbo charged. 10psi 597RWHP. He runs the shit out the car too. Never had a leak. Were buddies from the track. He runs 6.80's @ 115mph in the 1/8th mile.
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:33 PM   #5
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I use the copper from the manifold to the block, turbo to manifold, and also dp to turbo. I don't use any gaskets on the exhaust or turbo.
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:48 PM   #6
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Hmmm, interesting. Anyone else have any input? I was thinking about ordering an S15 7 layer metal gasket for the mani/head flange.
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:10 PM   #7
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People blow the factory gaskets a lot? The metal ones? I had no idea
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:16 PM   #8
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Good post. Seems informative. Do you use the ultra copper with the gasket? I would assume so.
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:16 PM   #9
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People blow the factory gaskets a lot? The metal ones? I had no idea
No, I don't think they do generally. And I don't know that mine is for sure blown. A stud may have backed out of the manifold. I don't know. I'm planning on welding the backside of them when the mani is out this time I think.
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:33 PM   #10
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Good post. Seems informative. Do you use the ultra copper with the gasket? I would assume so.
Nope use the Ultra Copper only. No gaskets otherwise the ultra copper would be pointless, it would still blow the reg gasket in the center.
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Old 05-15-2008, 02:39 PM   #11
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I'm thinking about going this route, but I'll have to let the gaskets dry fully before firing up the car, since the last time I used this stuff, I blew the copper out everywhere after letting it dry for like an hour only lol
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Old 05-15-2008, 03:31 PM   #12
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LOL, ya I wouldn't start it for at least 24hrs so it cures. If you want the best results.
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:59 AM   #13
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Ok, so I looked into the Ultra Copper. It's only good to 700*... Exhaust gases are a good bit hotter than that if you're doing anything more than driving Miss Daisy... I wouldn't think that would hold up very well... *shrugs*
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:11 AM   #14
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OEM metal one off a Z31.

stock metal tab things to keep the nuts from backing off

copper spray on the gasket.

done and done.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:29 AM   #15
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yes, i am that buddy thats blown hundreds of them. lol i'm telling you dude, weld that shiz!
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:30 AM   #16
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OEM metal one off a Z31.

stock metal tab things to keep the nuts from backing off

copper spray on the gasket.

done and done.
I think it would be Z32. Twin T25s. Z31 were T3.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:31 AM   #17
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yes, i am that buddy thats blown hundreds of them. lol i'm telling you dude, weld that shiz!
No. That's ghey.
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Old 05-16-2008, 08:52 AM   #18
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Ok, yea, I'm sure the info is on here somewhere, but I would trust the OEM one personally.

Give Brian at MA a call, see what he says. The setup I have in my motor with the GT28rs I'm pretty sure is a stock gasket, just use a new one, sinch it down well, tack welt the studs in your manifold, and use the locking tab things from nissan.
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Old 05-16-2008, 09:15 AM   #19
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Ive used the rutland stove gasket and its awesome. It hardens as you cure it by heating it. I dont know if the permatex copper stuff hardens but this stuff gets pretty stiff. I have some applied between my turbo and manifold, turbo and downpipe, and various exhaust connections and there arent any leaks. Plus this stuff is rated for 2000*F when the permatex copper is rated for 700* intermittent, which means it cant stand 700* continously. Kinda like how speakers have RMS values and the ultra cool 1000W value. Ok, enough.
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Old 05-16-2008, 09:47 AM   #20
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Ive used the rutland stove gasket and its awesome. It hardens as you cure it by heating it. I dont know if the permatex copper stuff hardens but this stuff gets pretty stiff. I have some applied between my turbo and manifold, turbo and downpipe, and various exhaust connections and there arent any leaks. Plus this stuff is rated for 2000*F when the permatex copper is rated for 700* intermittent, which means it cant stand 700* continously. Kinda like how speakers have RMS values and the ultra cool 1000W value. Ok, enough.
Good to hear. So did you use it with no gaskets, just a bead of Rutland 77, slap em together, wait an hour, and then start it?

Also, what manifold are you using? Cast, or stainless?
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:40 AM   #21
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Anybody remember super tuner tv... that show use to come on sat mornings on what is now spike tv. They had the twins who's last name starts with K, think they own/run Twins Turbo. They were doing a turbo upgrade on some euro I think it was, and they used some sorta orangish looking paste (maybe rtv), anyone have an idea what I'm talking about? I mean if it's good enough, maybe u can use that. If only I knew what it's called. Think they just smeared it on around the flange.
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:47 AM   #22
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I have used the stainless one and that shit did not seal completely. The i used a cosmetic and it blew up once i turned up the boost, so then i ordered the OEM one and I've been good ever since.

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Old 05-16-2008, 11:51 AM   #23
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I have used the stainless one and that shit did not seal completely. The i used a cosmetic and it blew up once i turned up the boost, so then i ordered the OEM one and I've been good ever since.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/307/gaskets10qu4.jpg
Damn, ok. I just got off the phone with a friend that used to have a 600whp Supra. He said to get a good stainless gasket, make sure the flanges are both flat, and tighten them down really well. Tack weld the back of the studs so they don't back out of the manifold. Then drill (or have a machine shop drill) a tiny hole through each nut/stud and run a piece of safety wire through all four and twist it off.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:17 PM   #24
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^sorry but that sounds so "un" needed. There's a reason why nissan used this gasket for their cars. reliability, they didn't just pick one and say "here it's cheap lets use it!" Reliability was factor and i would go oem on most things when replacing because of reliability.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:27 PM   #25
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Damn, ok. I just got off the phone with a friend that used to have a 600whp Supra. He said to get a good stainless gasket, make sure the flanges are both flat, and tighten them down really well. Tack weld the back of the studs so they don't back out of the manifold. Then drill (or have a machine shop drill) a tiny hole through each nut/stud and run a piece of safety wire through all four and twist it off.

that works, some of my buddies who road race motorcycles do that b/c vibration backs off the nut, but if the gasket blows itll be more of a pain to replace
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:35 PM   #26
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^sorry but that sounds so "un" needed. There's a reason why nissan used this gasket for their cars. reliability, they didn't just pick one and say "here it's cheap lets use it!" Reliability was factor and i would go oem on most things when replacing because of reliability.
Well yeah, but that's also on 7psi. The safety wire is not to keep from blowing the gasket, it's to keep the nuts from backing off the studs.

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that works, some of my buddies who road race motorcycles do that b/c vibration backs off the nut, but if the gasket blows itll be more of a pain to replace
Yeah. I don't know 100% that the gasket actually blew. And if it did, it could have been because something has started to back out. I haven't pulled it apart yet, because I kinda want to get everything here so I can pull/replace/redo all at one time and have as little downtime as possible.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:48 PM   #27
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thats why you get those nuts that dont back out and use the retaining clip to also assist the nuts from backing out.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:49 PM   #28
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thats why you get those nuts that dont back out and use the retaining clip to also assist the nuts from backing out.
Feel free to post a link, since after all, that's what this thread is for...
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:57 PM   #29
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I just used the red thread locker,and its holding up.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:59 PM   #30
upSLIDEdown
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Location: VA.. And for those that keep PMing me asking what kit I have, it's Origin Stream.
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