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Old 04-28-2020, 08:03 PM   #1261
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It seems JE or CP make the proper high comp pistons

Not sure what you mean by "perfect pistons" however. Dont think there is such a thing lol
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:16 AM   #1262
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what i meant is what works best on E85 and methanol. also for less or no detonation, make less boost for more hp.
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Old 10-14-2020, 06:47 PM   #1263
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So I was recommend on Holley HydraMat. I had the ECU failsafe for oil pressure as well. However, was unable to setup data log before or during the event (long story). So I am not sure if it's fuel starvation or ecu failsafe or both. Tough to glance down at the race dash when trying to hang on because #stockseat (a part of why I wasn't able to setup datalogging......yeah long story).

I am "guessing" fuel starvation as if it was an oil pressure issue, I figured it would occur on both right AND left handers (the custom oil pan baffle, designed off the old Jun drop in stock pan design, is symmetrical on both sides). We will see



Will probably throw in the hydramat and see. Tough to test on the street however as there is no way in hell I am going to be full send on any on ramp
Sort of unrelated, but since you brought this up, has anyone run one of the Jun baffles in tandem with a baffled lower oil pan? Have an ISR extended capacity pan with the flaps in it and I dont know if it would be redundant to add the Jun baffle too, or if it would be extra security.
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:32 AM   #1264
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what i meant is what works best on E85 and methanol. also for less or no detonation, make less boost for more hp.

I have a 11:1 sr20det on flex fuel, e85 is the way to go.
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:44 AM   #1265
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Hello

A quick question:
I want to fabricate hard oil lines with banjo ends for solenoid relocation bracket and fit the bracket on the engine block(under the intake preferably), because as I've found, hoses with AN fittings leaks no matter how tight I screw them. Leakage is barely noticeable, but it definitely takes place.

I googled and found a couple of photos, with possible bracket locations,




but I just cannot redo the same, I have S14 block and stock heater lines take almost all the place under intake collector:





Could any proficient one advise a way of securing Mazworx solenoids bracket on the block?
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:20 PM   #1266
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There should be no leaking period..what fittings are u using?

Hard lines use the same 37deg flare as AN fittings do....
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:57 PM   #1267
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There should be no leaking period..what fittings are u using?

Hard lines use the same 37deg flare as AN fittings do....
Stainless AN4 fittings, come with Mazworx kit. Leakage is minimal, let's say not a leakage but a thin film of oil on hoses and fittings. Plus hoses clutter engine bay and fittings are almost impossible to be disconnected with engine installed.
I want to make hard lines with banjo rings+banjo bolts.
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:59 PM   #1268
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Stainless AN4 fittings, come with Mazworx kit. Leakage is minimal, let's say not a leakage but a thin film of oil on hoses and fittings. Plus hoses clutter engine bay and fittings are almost impossible to be disconnected with engine installed.


Perhaps a high temp Teflon tape on the threads would help?
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:37 PM   #1269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splitfire View Post
Stainless AN4 fittings, come with Mazworx kit. Leakage is minimal, let's say not a leakage but a thin film of oil on hoses and fittings. Plus hoses clutter engine bay and fittings are almost impossible to be disconnected with engine installed.
I want to make hard lines with banjo rings+banjo bolts.
Hmm that is weird there is seepage from the fittings... good enough for avation, arm and navy/MILTARY(hence AN) no debis in the mating surfaces, or finish imperfections?

Hard lines can work you just need tobe cautious of reverbation(vibrqtion in the lines causing metal fatigue. Plus i would imagine the easy of installation and removal being harder.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:39 PM   #1270
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Perhaps a high temp Teflon tape on the threads would help?

AN fittings do not seal by the threads, they seal on the 37deg. Mating surfaces. No sealing tape/compound or sealent should be used.

Ive had some cheap fittings slightly leak, some lapping compound. Snug down the fitting lightly, spin the fitting, remove, clean all the compound out and reinstall..no more issue
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Old 10-30-2020, 06:37 AM   #1271
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In this photo, does the outside/top line connect to the top fitting on the heater core?

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Old 10-30-2020, 08:59 AM   #1272
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Quote:
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In this photo, does the outside/top line connect to the top fitting on the heater core?
...
Yes it does.
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Old 10-30-2020, 03:43 PM   #1273
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Yes it does.
Thanks.

In regards to your leaking AN. They do make JIC fittings that have a Teflon ?oring? on the taper to help seal. I am not sure off hand if the JIC have the same taper as an AN.
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