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Old 02-13-2019, 06:12 AM   #22531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrowne View Post
Im looking for threads on degreeing cams for sr20 (BC 264/264). Unable to find much with the search function...
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ECCARDSR20.pdf



JWT has all the stuff on degreeing etc, along with the parts like adjustable sprockets, how to fit them, timing, and pay strong attention to timing or you'll bend half your valves(do not ask me how I know this #KAfirsttime)
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:48 AM   #22532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ECCARDSR20.pdf



JWT has all the stuff on degreeing etc, along with the parts like adjustable sprockets, how to fit them, timing, and pay strong attention to timing or you'll bend half your valves(do not ask me how I know this #KAfirsttime)
Thanks man! I'm having a hard time finding someone to come do it for me to avoid bending half my valves but I'll read into it anyway. This is great.
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:50 AM   #22533
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Has anyone in Cali had their downstream or 'secondary' catalytic converter replaced with a resonator or straight pipe on their 95 (OBD1) S14? I have a feeling the exhaust shops are gonna fight me on this.

Mine appears to have been punctured by some road debris.
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:06 PM   #22534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [240sx] View Post
Has anyone in Cali had their downstream or 'secondary' catalytic converter replaced with a resonator or straight pipe on their 95 (OBD1) S14? I have a feeling the exhaust shops are gonna fight me on this.

Mine appears to have been punctured by some road debris.
It’s a dummy cat, don’t worry about it. If you’re concerned about noise have the exhaust shop put in a resonator.
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Old 02-15-2019, 07:01 AM   #22535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agamemnon View Post
It’s a dummy cat, don’t worry about it. If you’re concerned about noise have the exhaust shop put in a resonator.
Megan Test Pipe is just fine, same as ISR
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Old 02-15-2019, 07:43 AM   #22536
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New BC 264 exhaust cam, I need to swap the dowel to the longer one but I cant get the old one out...... It wont budge... HELP!!

EDIT: Got pissed and drilled it out. Problem solved.

Last edited by jbrowne; 02-15-2019 at 06:36 PM..
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Old 02-16-2019, 08:15 PM   #22537
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I'm back with another timing question...

New cams and cam gears are going in now and I cant seem to get the dark coloured chain links to line up at 10 & 12 where the dowel pins are.. I rotate the engine over and over by hand and put the crank pulley to the second notch from the left but cant seem to make it happen...

help.
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:35 AM   #22538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrowne View Post
I'm back with another timing question...

New cams and cam gears are going in now and I cant seem to get the dark coloured chain links to line up at 10 & 12 where the dowel pins are.. I rotate the engine over and over by hand and put the crank pulley to the second notch from the left but cant seem to make it happen...

help.
You will only ever get those links to line up when you install the timing chain for the first time. Just set TDC of compression stoke (cam lobes facing out), and mark the links with a grease pencil before removing the chain.

Other option is to drop the oil pan and put the colored link on the crank gear, like you were starting from scratch.

Also, the links don't line up with the dowel pins, they line up with a dot on the gear itself.

Here's what I did when I replaced my VTC gear, zip tied the chain so it didn't move.
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:29 PM   #22539
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Can the brake booster check valve when clogged cause the car to have low idle?

Everytime I press the brakes my idle drops and the car soon dies. My Brake Booster is fine. I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. So was just curious about this.

I've been dealing with this idle issue for a long time. It just begins to run a bit rough when its warm. Fine cold start. I'm pretty sure its vacuum related due to the fact that when I mash the brakes rapidly the car ends up dying.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:15 PM   #22540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Can the brake booster check valve when clogged cause the car to have low idle?

Everytime I press the brakes my idle drops and the car soon dies. My Brake Booster is fine. I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. So was just curious about this.

I've been dealing with this idle issue for a long time. It just begins to run a bit rough when its warm. Fine cold start. I'm pretty sure its vacuum related due to the fact that when I mash the brakes rapidly the car ends up dying.
Well, a clogged or inop brake booster check valve, would not cause any engine symptoms. It would simply not give you power brakes.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:32 PM   #22541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Can the brake booster check valve when clogged cause the car to have low idle?

Everytime I press the brakes my idle drops and the car soon dies. My Brake Booster is fine. I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. So was just curious about this.

I've been dealing with this idle issue for a long time. It just begins to run a bit rough when its warm. Fine cold start. I'm pretty sure its vacuum related due to the fact that when I mash the brakes rapidly the car ends up dying.
Either you have a vacuum leak, and the booster robs whatever is left (and dies). Or the booster itself could have a vacuum leak.

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Old 02-23-2019, 06:59 PM   #22542
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
Either you have a vacuum leak, and the booster robs whatever is left (and dies). Or the booster itself could have a vacuum leak.

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Ugh okay. Thanks guys..

Probably just going to buy a cheap smoke machine and try to find the leak that way. I made a diy vacuum leak tester and found nothing.


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Old 02-24-2019, 01:05 PM   #22543
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Reinstalled my turbo coolant line, torqued it down to spec, new washers/gaskets installed, yet when I attempt to fill up the coolant, it all leaks out from between the seal and bolt. Has anyone had experience dealing with this issue?


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Old 02-24-2019, 03:06 PM   #22544
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Check the finish of all of the mating surfaces for scratches, burrs, debris, etc.

Solid metal gaskets (eg. crush washers) need good, clean, smooth surfaces to seal.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:54 PM   #22545
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I acquired a s14 sr20det water neck that is tapped with-8n fitting. I wanted to know if that can be used for coolant feed or return line.
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Old 02-25-2019, 04:07 AM   #22546
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I acquired a s14 sr20det water neck that is tapped with-8n fitting. I wanted to know if that can be used for coolant feed or return line.
Return line.
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:10 AM   #22547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Ugh okay. Thanks guys..

Probably just going to buy a cheap smoke machine and try to find the leak that way. I made a diy vacuum leak tester and found nothing.


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Pack o Camel's is about the cheapest smoke machine you can get. You inhale after lighting, then blow the smoke onto the area to see where it sucks in. Seen everyone from race mechanics to shade tree use this technique. $5 and a match
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:31 AM   #22548
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For the ball being turbo users; are you using a restrictor at banjo or at the turbo connection. I was looking for a .035 oil feed line and could not find one. The banjo restricts at .065 or .060. Is this acceptable?

I spent several hours with google and came across P2M oil restrictor that's .03 for gt ball bearing turbos and a few other parts. Has anyone used these products with success. (P2M) restrictor has a diameter of 0.03" oil passage, Replacement banjo fitting to be used with the DIF turbo lines. M12 Banjo Hole Size with -3AN end, and Diftech Turbo Oil Feed Banjo Bolt SR20DET. Thanks for reading and chiming in!


https://www.phase2motortrend.com/pro...-ost003-gd.htm

https://frsport.com/dif-10018-turbo-...itting-sr20det

https://frsport.com/dif-10084-turbo-...o-bolt-sr20det


Thanks DERASS!

Last edited by lewisfk; 02-28-2019 at 09:36 PM.. Reason: MORE INFO
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:33 AM   #22549
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Are and S13 and S14 KA24DE throttle cables the same?

I'm having a tough time finding a new one specific for an S14, but S13's seems to be abundant.

Thanks
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:35 AM   #22550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derass View Post
Check the finish of all of the mating surfaces for scratches, burrs, debris, etc.

Solid metal gaskets (eg. crush washers) need good, clean, smooth surfaces to seal.


Resolved. Had to torque the hell out of it to seal. Thanks [emoji1374]


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Old 02-27-2019, 12:37 PM   #22551
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Resolved. Had to torque the hell out of it to seal. Thanks [emoji1374]


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also note that if you have to yard to get it to seal, the mating surface might not be flat. something to keep in mind if you have more sealing problems down the road.

also, do not re-use crush washers.
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:46 PM   #22552
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For the ball being turbo users; are you using a restrictor at banjo or at the turbo connection. I was looking for a .035 oil feed line and could not find one. The banjo restricts at .065 or .060. Is this acceptable?

I spent several hours with google and came across P2M oil restrictor that's .03 for gt ball bearing turbos and a few other parts. Has anyone used these products with success. (P2M) restrictor has a diameter of 0.03" oil passage, Replacement banjo fitting to be used with the DIF turbo lines. M12 Banjo Hole Size with -3AN end, and Diftech Turbo Oil Feed Banjo Bolt SR20DET. Thanks for reading and chiming in!
I had at 2871R on my S13 SR and ran the DIF lines and both restrictors: the stock banjo bolt, and a DIF 0.035" restrictor. I see they don't make that size anymore, now it's 0.040". Close enough.

Lines:
https://frsport.com/dif-10034-bottom...s13-sr20det-oe

Restrictor:
https://frsport.com/dif-10016-turbo-...-oil-hole-size


The P2M restrictor would work too since both it and the DIF oil feed line are -3AN.
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Old 02-28-2019, 10:26 PM   #22553
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ive manual converted my 1996 s14 Zenki Silvia but the gear box I got has a s13 speedo drive in it can I wire that one up to the old auto speedo wire which is s14 [auto] if that makes any difference
?
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:12 AM   #22554
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ive manual converted my 1996 s14 Zenki Silvia but the gear box I got has a s13 speedo drive in it can I wire that one up to the old auto speedo wire which is s14 [auto] if that makes any difference

?
You will need to find an S14 speed sensor and wire that in. Your speedometer will be wrong with the s13 sensor. But yes, it uses the same wires as the auto trans sensor used.
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Old 03-01-2019, 09:40 AM   #22555
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Is anyone using the full-race top mount turbo kits with the downpipe? If so, what O2 sensor are you using? The skinny or the fat one. I called Full-race and they couldn't tell me.
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Old 03-01-2019, 05:08 PM   #22556
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I was removing my turbo exhaust O2 dump pipe and broke one of the studs inside the turbo exhaust housing. Im thinking, instead of buying 5 new replacement studs, can I get away with using appropriately sized bolts? Id leave 1 or 2 studs just so I could could position the exhaust pipe and then thread in the other 3/4 bolts to secure the pipe in place. I appreciate any feedback
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Old 03-01-2019, 06:05 PM   #22557
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I was removing my turbo exhaust O2 dump pipe and broke one of the studs inside the turbo exhaust housing. Im thinking, instead of buying 5 new replacement studs, can I get away with using appropriately sized bolts? Id leave 1 or 2 studs just so I could could position the exhaust pipe and then thread in the other 3/4 bolts to secure the pipe in place. I appreciate any feedback
I've done it before. Just make sure you have exactly the right length.

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Old 03-01-2019, 06:38 PM   #22558
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I've done it before. Just make sure you have exactly the right length.

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How many bolts did you use?
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:50 PM   #22559
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Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
How many bolts did you use?
Lower two were studs and upper 3 I used bolts

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Old 03-02-2019, 07:47 AM   #22560
DJTTon
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Does anyone have experience buying studs from USA Mamba on ebay?
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