Sr20 running horrible help!!

[Nicelyphe]

Originally Posted by boris13

Yea dude it's connected -_- if the cas is off would it cause idle issues?

To an extent, maybe sluggish but the cas controls ignition timing, and your car starts and runs, just wont stay idled. Maybe IACV?

[boris13]

Originally Posted by Nicelyphe

To an extent, maybe sluggish but the cas controls ignition timing, and your car starts and runs, just wont stay idled. Maybe IACV?

That's what I was thinking sprayed carb cleaner in the hose next to the throttle body and the screw on top as well if I try to take off the screw on top while the car is running it will try to die as I'm trying to take it off so would that indicate that it is working.?

[boris13]

I took it to the shop guys they said it had a whole bunch of small shit that just needed some TLC he said that the throttle cable was on too tight and it was flooding the engine and the TPS needed to be adjusted hence it running too rich and waiting so much gas and running like shit as well I'll let you guys know what else he found being as most of the threads I read no one posted the final solution

[Nicelyphe]

Sounds good let us know. WHat kind of shop did you bring it too? Just a basic automotive place?

[cotbu]

I thought this was fixed! I wanna know the cost.

[boris13]

Originally Posted by Nicelyphe

Sounds good let us know. WHat kind of shop did you bring it too? Just a basic automotive place?

No I took it to a guy that works on imports only he has done plenty of sr20 swaps of all kinds Blk/red tops s13/14s so I trust him he explained so much to me in 5 minutes I had no idea that all those little flaws would cause the car to run like shit like how my throttle cable was on too tight causing the car to stall or cut off completely after boost or while boosting because it's running extremely rich and the engine was being flooded and the smell of gas was so strong so that was one of my meany little problems I had I'm not sure if it will be done today hopefully

[boris13]

Originally Posted by cotbu

I thought this was fixed! I wanna know the cost.

Na dude I wish but I payed 1400 for the motor wiring harness and ecu I had to get the turbo FMIC + BOV and radiator along with the tranny and boost guage so I spent about 2200 for everything and he's charging me 300 too fix all the little details such as fix my fucked up wiring harness test all the sensors see if they're in working and good condition and check for vacuum leaks and adjust the TPS and throttle cable I'll keep you guys updated wen he calls and I know what was exactly wrong with it

[boris13]

So I scooped up my 240 from that shop they wanted to charge me 800 to fix a wiring harness

[Nicelyphe]

Thats crazy, probably better grabbing a used one off here for like $100-$200

[boris13]

Yea that's what I said but I'm still unsure of what the problem is. -_-

[boris13]

well i think that the 63 ecu is bad because when i put the 62 ecu she will idle but shes not pulling -20 only -10 or -15 then i pull codes form the ecu and it gives me codes 11 12 13 34 so it might be a fucked wiring harness but at least i can drive it any ideas y it would give me 4 codes?? the turbo doesnt flutter or anything like that im am completely stumped and have no more ideas as to what i can do i wish it would just finally start working -____- i might just sell the pice of shit im tired of messing with it

[JDMRIDDAZ]

its easy to fix this with a multimeter and a fsm
multimeter is a dub at sears
fsm is free to down load on net
check all those sensors against specs in fsm
also u need to check all wires where engine harness connects to chassis harness....
wire colors r free from frsport...
as far as a janky harness cut it open and tape it up....or solder broken wires and tape it up..use 3m temflex blk tape
most of the time is lack of voltage to engine harness=ecu..sensors...

[boris13]

Originally Posted by JDMRIDDAZ

its easy to fix this with a multimeter and a fsm
multimeter is a dub at sears
fsm is free to down load on net
check all those sensors against specs in fsm
also u need to check all wires where engine harness connects to chassis harness....
wire colors r free from frsport...
as far as a janky harness cut it open and tape it up....or solder broken wires and tape it up..use 3m temflex blk tape
most of the time is lack of voltage to engine harness=ecu..sensors...

Dude thanks for the input i got a multimeter and the fsm still looking for the correct voltage for everything i also took the valve cover off n saw this



not sure if thats correct tho i read on the fsm that the 2 black dots on the cams are supposed to line up with the silver links on the chain if so how would i get to fix the chain to line up with the dots on the cams. i already tryed rotating the crank by hand and it wont line up with the dots..

[cbcm2435]

its in the fsm too, you are going to have to pull the chain off and reset the timing, i would check and make sure the chain is lined up right on the crank also.

[boris13]

Originally Posted by cbcm2435

its in the fsm too, you are going to have to pull the chain off and reset the timing, i would check and make sure the chain is lined up right on the crank also.

Would i have to pull the motor out and re set the chain would that even cause the car to run like shit and give me that many codes?? or are the codes its throwing out a separate problem

[di-devol]

Oi, keep rotating the crank, it will line up eventually. I doubt your timing could be off that much and still run.

Have you checked the timing with a timing light yet?

[cotbu]

Im on my phone now, but you need to have an understanding for this shyt first.
Are you at tdc in that picture, you have many other ways to determine tdc and if your chain is on correctly. Count the links, cam lobes out yada yada sex.
I would advise you to get senior member help, to help verify mechanical timing, before you, yourself attempt that on your own! Im on my way to the lab, i'll try to help you.

Sent from my Highly Tuned Vibrant!

[boris13]

Thanks for all the help but no I haven't checked it with a timing light yet and I had set the crank at the second mark to the left side and the dots didn't line up on the silver links on the chain so idk if that's on right I looked through the fsm and it looks like you have to go through hell to fix it and well I don't even think I have the right tools to fix it with

But still would bad timing cause the coolant temp sensor the cas and the Maf and knock sensor to show up on the ecu.? The auto ecu wouldn't show any codes other than the 55

[cotbu]

The links lining up with the dots are for installation, but If you rotate the crank enough and or are lucky they will all line up again at TDC eventually???!! I know how to set TDC so I skip some of this stuff, but put a dowel, long screw driver or whatever in the number 1 spark plug hole, watch the screw driver when the TDC mark come up the screw driver will stop moving up, TDC. Most of the time we work from compression stroke, but master TDC first and you'll be able to hear when it's compression stroke.

I've seen your harness, and I would definitely have that repaired, before I switch ecu's and look for other issues. just saying
Have any friends with sr's, do a harness swap or lay your harness on top of theirs, rule out the harness and ecu whatever way is the cheapest. Feel me.

[boris13]

Yea cuz it starts up right away and it doesn't struggle to start up or it doesn't sound like it has any kind of problem starting up but here's the weird thing I had taken off the ecu and had put it back on the wiring harness thinking maybe the plug isn't sitting right and (this happen yesterday) it had only givin me one code wen I checked for codes soon as I reinstalled it and that code was the CTS so I go and check for voltage at the sensor plug and I'm getting vOltage I'm thinking my wiring harness could be so messed up that it isn't giving off the right voltage

When I got it the guy I bought the whole swap from told me the guy before me had hooked up a piggyback.? Or something like that to the ecu so I had to rewire all the fucked up wiring at the harness plug that connects to the back of the ecu I re did it using a ecu pinout and made sure every wire was correct -_-

Ok here's what I wanna know wen I got the swap my FPR was a little bent I unbent it but it still looks a little fucked up but i had replaced it with the SOHC FPR but still no diffrence I also have no exhaust hooked up because I wanted to get the swap up and running before I buy a exhaust system a guy told me some of ur idling problem is because there is no back pressure.? I'm not entirely sure if that is correct if so I will buy one ASAP but I don't think that would cause the car to idle at -10in (boost gauge) I do have the down pipe connected to a cat but that's it after that nothing else I'm about to buy an exhaust tho..

[Nicelyphe]

Just a little input from my understanding, an ECU wont just connect and give you a code. I believe they refresh they're codes at a certain point. So the 4 codes that you got, could have been from previously, but I'd erase the codes, run the car a bit, then recheck for codes.

[boris13]

Originally Posted by Nicelyphe

Just a little input from my understanding, an ECU wont just connect and give you a code. I believe they refresh they're codes at a certain point. So the 4 codes that you got, could have been from previously, but I'd erase the codes, run the car a bit, then recheck for codes.

Hmmm ok well i read that the way to erase the codes and refresh the ecu is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes.?? its bin disconnected for 2 days now im about too start the car run it for a little and recheck for codes to see what happens also just for info when i go and disconnect the maf the car idles so perfect as if nothing is wrong with it at all just idles so smooth and beautiful but wen i go to rev it it wont go passed 2500rpms because its in safe mode.? but wen i go to connect it again the idle drops picks up and starts to idle rough im going to replace the IACV hose and ive triple checked for popped off cuplers and re tightend them real good so thats good and well im about to see what happens

[boris13]

well i took out the wiring harness and tryed to find a short or something with in the wiring fucking with the sensors but nothing im at my end with this pice of shit sr20 i move all the wires to see if i get a better response and nothing i tryed everything but still nothing can fix this son of a bitch

[waste_of_space]

If your car is running good with your MAF unplugged, I'd say that's the culprit.
Your car should, for the most part, die when you unplug the MAF.
Swap in a good known MAF, and then come back and tell us how it's running.

[boris13]

Originally Posted by waste_of_space

If your car is running good with your MAF unplugged, I'd say that's the culprit.
Your car should, for the most part, die when you unplug the MAF.
Swap in a good known MAF, and then come back and tell us how it's running.

k well i checked the voltage and i got 11.95 on the black and white wire i got 0 at the ground or like a .1-2 and i got 0.75 at the signal wire i messed with the BOV and it idled alot better with the BOV slightly cracked i changed the MAF with the SOHC KA MAF that was working on my KA before i took it out and i ordered a SR20DET red top MAF witch is in there now and it still has the same idle as before i swapped MAFS now when i give it gas it starts smoking up gray and sounds like a subaru..

[boris13]

UPDATE.!!!!!!

So i took out the sparkplugs and regapped them to 35 and she is running alot and i mean A LOT BETTER.!!!! boost gauge is reading at -13 or -15 at idle and thats with no exhaust hooked up im about to but the dump pipe down pipe and full exhaust and install it and see how much better she will do hopefully that clears everything i wanna thank everyone for their input and help getting this beast alive ive learned so much about an sr20 because of this fourm i love it.!!!

seriously thanks tho

[idc101]

so is she running good now?

[samss]

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