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Old 08-26-2009, 06:16 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattro View Post
off the top of my head i have no clue. where would one look for this info?
If ARP is selling you a stud they should have a calc for tensile strength.
I found a stud on McMaster carr rated at 125,000PSI. So I just wanted to see if the ARP is really better than the mc-mastercarr.
It should be listed.
I'll call ARP tomorrow to see if they have a PDF spec sheet they can email me.
Thanks Anyway
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:24 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigVinnie View Post
If ARP is selling you a stud they should have a calc for tensile strength.
I found a stud on McMaster carr rated at 125,000PSI. So I just wanted to see if the ARP is really better than the mc-mastercarr.
It should be listed.
I'll call ARP tomorrow to see if they have a PDF spec sheet they can email me.
Thanks Anyway
yea man sorry i dint ask when i had them on the phone.

lmk when/if you find out
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:58 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigVinnie View Post
What is the PSI tensile strength of those studs?
43000000

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Old 08-26-2009, 08:26 PM   #64
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Ya'll need to use the internet more
http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf

from the website

It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine
builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all-out competition
powerplants. Simply stated, there’s not a better stud setup on the market today.


For openers, ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior
to “aircraft” quality. Then, each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely
heat-treated to 200,000 psi. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and
the results are far superior to those lesser quality studs from other manufacturers who just
dump pieces in a basket and hope for the best.

Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfectly concentric
as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight
part. It’s important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground – the material is thread
rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Because ARP studs
are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into
position and are perfectly aligned – something that won’t happen with inferior quality head studs.

ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 1000% (that’s ten times) better fatigue strength
than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way,
because it’s tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort.

You will also note that ARP offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more
equalizes the “stretch” of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force – and one that compensates for head gasket
compression when the cylinder heads are installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum engine sealing!
Premium quality heat-treated 8740 chrome moly steel head stud kits are available for most every domestic and import applications. You
won’t find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Look for ARP stamped on each stud as your assurance of quality.
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:39 PM   #65
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According to fastenals engineering torque spec guide both the ARP and the McMaster-CARR meet or exceed the minimum 125,000PSI tensil strength which meets under ASTM193.

It says in the guide that under lubrication conditions not to exceed a clamping torque of 79Ft/LB.s, under dry conditions to torque to 105FT/Lb.s.

So pretty much Mcmaster-CARR and ARP meet the 125,000LB minimum tensil strength.

According to ARP's instructions they sent mattro, if you are torquing to 85ft/lb.s that is 6 ft/lb.s exceeding the the ASTM guidlines for a bolt/stud of that tensil strength, lubricated.

Please read the fastenal PDF guide
http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds...20for%20B7.pdf


Quoted at the bottom of fastenals PDF guide it states very clearly.
"Under/over tightening of fasteners can result in costly equipment failure or personal injury."
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:06 PM   #66
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SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:54 PM   #67
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SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.
I know the worst is when you swap an engine out and get your fingers stuck between the mount and engine. Fuck that shit is pain full. Worst personal injury I would say..

Sorry way off topic.
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Old 09-05-2009, 06:35 PM   #68
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I know the worst is when you swap an engine out and get your fingers stuck between the mount and engine. Fuck that shit is pain full. Worst personal injury I would say..

Sorry way off topic.
yea i would say so.


quick update i put the head back on and everything went as planned.

got the engine back into the car and started hooking things back up this weekend.
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:06 PM   #69
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Old 09-06-2009, 03:44 AM   #70
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You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties...
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:47 PM   #71
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You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties...
funny. i chose them because of how neon green they were.

and i might consider it if they weren't holding in my rad.

beside the res of my car is ugly, why shouldn't the engine bay follow suit?

if anyone has a extra pair of stock rad supports they are willing to donate to the "get rid of neon green zip ties" fund, ill gladly accept. hell ill even pay shipping.

thanks for the input thou, i will keep this in mind.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:54 PM   #72
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:00 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattro View Post
funny. i chose them because of how neon green they were.

and i might consider it if they weren't holding in my rad.

beside the res of my car is ugly, why shouldn't the engine bay follow suit?

if anyone has a extra pair of stock rad supports they are willing to donate to the "get rid of neon green zip ties" fund, ill gladly accept. hell ill even pay shipping.

thanks for the input thou, i will keep this in mind.
I think I may have some laying around from the S13 I had. I'll check it out, I find em' they are yours plus postage to get rid of those sweet neon green zipties...
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:02 PM   #74
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Quote:
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just make some out of metal
my fab skillz suck. i tried a cage once, bad bad things happened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
I think I may have some laying around from the S13 I had. I'll check it out, I find em' they are yours plus postage to get rid of those sweet neon green zipties...

deal.

pm me if you find em. we can go from there.
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