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Old 02-25-2020, 09:54 AM   #23071
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Old 02-25-2020, 02:09 PM   #23072
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Kouki taillight center garnish

I have a brand new one center garnish from Nissan. (The metal piece that sits below the tail lights.) my question is, is this ready for paint or do I still need to primer it? It is a black color so I’m not sure if it already has primer on it..
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Old 02-25-2020, 02:53 PM   #23073
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Originally Posted by fnc0329 View Post
I have a brand new one center garnish from Nissan. (The metal piece that sits below the tail lights.) my question is, is this ready for paint or do I still need to primer it? It is a black color so I’m not sure if it already has primer on it..
its black stamped metal... will need to be shot with primer.

if youre doing this yourself, shoot it with etching primer. if youre taking it to a shop to have it professionally shot, dont touch it and let them do everything.

using spray paint on anything with the plan of having it professionally painted later will only cost you more money in the long run. 2 part paint and primer that paint shops use do not mix with previously spray painted items due to the aerosol chemical mixed in with the paint. whatever part or piece you shoot with spray paint will have to be taken back to metal for the professional grade primer to stick properly to (otherwise it will most likely fail)
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Old 02-25-2020, 03:08 PM   #23074
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Got it, thanks!
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:35 PM   #23075
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What have people used to rebuilt a Garrett 69f00 turbocharger? This is the single BB "S14 T28" found on S14 SR's as well as auto S15's. Correct me if I'm wrong, but after sifting through like 5 threads of confusing info, I believe that is the correct description.

I'd like to think twisted motion's rebuild kit would work with everything except for the journal bearings themselves. Is there a *semi-good-quality* rebuild kit available for the 69f00?
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:22 PM   #23076
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Back when I was looking at rebuild kits (years ago) G-Pop shop was a go to.
I ended up spending the money in an S15 ‘91F00’ and calling it a day.
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Old 03-04-2020, 02:23 AM   #23077
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HSD coilover - damaged stud thread

The other week as I went to chuck my strut brace back on, one of the threads stuffed itself. Tried a few dies to try repair the thread but no luck.

The only option i now have is to purchase a whole new top mount from HSD. Which is $170nzd. Which is annoying because other brands like BC sell the studs seperately.

What should I do? I can't justify spending $170 on a new top mount for 6+ year old coilovers which will probably be removed in a years time for an upgrade anyway.

Help would be appreciated haha
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Old 03-04-2020, 02:25 AM   #23078
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HSD coilover - damaged stud

The other week as I went to chuck my strut brace back on, one of the threads stuffed itself. Tried a few dies to try repair the thread but no luck.

The only option i now have is to purchase a whole new top mount from HSD. Which is $170nzd. Which is annoying because other brands like BC sell the studs seperately.

What should I do? I can't justify spending $170 on a new top mount for 6+ year old coilovers which will probably be removed in a years time for an upgrade anyway.

Help would be appreciated haha
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Old 03-04-2020, 07:20 AM   #23079
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Anyone know if Blitz and Defi gauge sensors / wiring are the same?
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:50 AM   #23080
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Originally Posted by 180sx_ View Post
HSD coilover - damaged stud thread
What should I do? I can't justify spending $170 on a new top mount for 6+ year old coilovers ..which will probably be removed in a years time for an upgrade anyway.
You can't just press the stud out for a bolt+ lock washer?
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Old 03-04-2020, 11:23 AM   #23081
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You can't just press the stud out for a bolt+ lock washer?
That's what a friend reccomended. I'm a bit skeptical about it as I would prefer a stud. As I'll probably sell the coilovers in a year or so.

I wonder if I could just buy a bc racing stud and hope it'll be the right size?
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Old 03-04-2020, 12:16 PM   #23082
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...I'm a bit skeptical about it as I would prefer a stud. // I wonder if I could just buy a bc racing stud and hope it'll be the right size?
Skeptical of..? With a lock washer or nylon lock nut, it's not going anywhere. Although it may not be aesthetically pleasing.

Definitely don't guess on the stud, press it out, and measure it with a micrometer.(not sure if they're knurled)
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Old 03-04-2020, 04:44 PM   #23083
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Skeptical of..? With a lock washer or nylon lock nut, it's not going anywhere. Although it may not be aesthetically pleasing.

Definitely don't guess on the stud, press it out, and measure it with a micrometer.(not sure if they're knurled)
Yeah, probably will take the coilover out and take it to an engineering shop to get a new one the right size pressed in
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:59 PM   #23084
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That's what a friend reccomended. I'm a bit skeptical about it as I would prefer a stud. As I'll probably sell the coilovers in a year or so.

I wonder if I could just buy a bc racing stud and hope it'll be the right size?
Go to the store and buy a stud already.

The right size stud, fucking obviously.

Life gets a lot better when you learn about bolt gauges.
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Old 03-09-2020, 10:31 PM   #23085
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I have wiring question for you guys. I just recently got the majority of the wiring in the car tamed and reinstalled the under dash components as well. Somehow I’ve lost the piece of paper that I was using to document all of this stuff and I don’t remember what these last two wires (Yellow/Blue and White/Red) are for...





From what I can tell from my research, the Yellow/Blue wire is in plug E201 and was used for the Oil Pressure Switch. The other end of this wire is in my junk wire box, so I know I trimmed it from something I felt that I didn’t need any longer. In this pinout I found online it says that the Y/BL wire on E201 is for the oil warning lamp on the cluster. If that’s the only function that it served, then I’ll just delete the pigtail that’s still attached to E201 and only have the big Black/Yellow wire for the starter on that plug. Can you guys confirm that this wire served no other purpose than the warning lamp?



For the White/Red wire, I genuinely don’t know where to start. Just like the Y/BL wire I have the other end trimmed off and sitting in my junk box. Having nothing else to go off of, I tried to match it up to the pinout I found online and it looks to me like this W/R wire is part of plug E202. The wires that I haven’t trimmed off of that plug seems to match what’s listed in the pinout. With that said it looks like this wire was used for Alternator Signal. This wire also looks like it was used for a warning lamp in the cluster, but if I remember correctly, I believe that this wire actually broke out into multiple branches. I just happen to have a 7.5A fuse (on battery power) sitting in my fuse panel with no wire going to it...I THINK the fuse was labeled Alt-S, but I don’t remember. I may have gotten too aggressive during the wiring removals, trimmed this off, and forgot to hook it back up. Can I just terminate this W/R wire with a ring terminal and hook it to that 7.5A fuse? I believe it’s the wire that the alternator uses to sense battery voltage, but I’m not totally sure.

For my last question, I just simply ask...what is this connector? It breaks out on the harness in the same section as the wiper motor and wiper amp.








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Old 03-11-2020, 12:19 PM   #23086
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Can some one confirm the bulb type for the instrument cluster warning lights on a S14?(CEL/Battery/Cruise control/wiper fluid,etc.) I know the main bulbs are #194(x3).
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:25 PM   #23087
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First off, what chassis and what engine are you working with? Those look like the S14 connectors around the fuse box area, so I'll try to answer some of your questions based on that assumption. Just ignore me if you have an S13 or something.

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From what I can tell from my research, the Yellow/Blue wire is in plug E201 and was used for the Oil Pressure Switch. The other end of this wire is in my junk wire box, so I know I trimmed it from something I felt that I didn’t need any longer. In this pinout I found online it says that the Y/BL wire on E201 is for the oil warning lamp on the cluster. If that’s the only function that it served, then I’ll just delete the pigtail that’s still attached to E201 and only have the big Black/Yellow wire for the starter on that plug. Can you guys confirm that this wire served no other purpose than the warning lamp?
That connector should be for the oil pressure switch and the starter signal. I think it's a triangle shaped 3-pin connector with only 2 wires used. Follow the lower/trans harness and it should go to the oil pressure sensor. Yes, it is only the dash dummy light.

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For the White/Red wire, I genuinely don’t know where to start.
At this point, I would highly recommend you grab a FSM for your chassis and following the wiring diagram accordingly. Deleting wires based off basic internet research alone is a recipe for a bad time. That said, it matches the pinout for the alternator signal. Again, I'm assuming this is the 8-pin S14 connector under the fuse box.

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For my last question, I just simply ask...what is this connector? It breaks out on the harness in the same section as the wiper motor and wiper amp.
If you have both wiper motor and amp plugged in, and that connector is roughly next to the amp, then it's the cruise control plug.
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:26 PM   #23088
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Can some one confirm the bulb type for the instrument cluster warning lights on a S14?(CEL/Battery/Cruise control/wiper fluid,etc.) I know the main bulbs are #194(x3).
Those should all be the small #74 bulbs.
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Old 03-11-2020, 01:17 PM   #23089
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Those should all be the small #74 bulbs.
Yeah that's what I've been coming across... guess I'll just buy and confirm. Should fit the JDM DCC.
Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:17 PM   #23090
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First off, what chassis and what engine are you working with? Those look like the S14 connectors around the fuse box area, so I'll try to answer some of your questions based on that assumption. Just ignore me if you have an S13 or something.
1995 S14 Zenki w/ 1JZ non-vvti

And yes, you are correct, these are both old connectors from the fuse box area.

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That connector should be for the oil pressure switch and the starter signal. I think it's a triangle shaped 3-pin connector with only 2 wires used. Follow the lower/trans harness and it should go to the oil pressure sensor. Yes, it is only the dash dummy light.
Thanks, that's what i figured, I just wanted some final verification. I will completely remove this triangle connector later and put in a single pin connector for the starter signal.

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At this point, I would highly recommend you grab a FSM for your chassis and following the wiring diagram accordingly. Deleting wires based off basic internet research alone is a recipe for a bad time. That said, it matches the pinout for the alternator signal. Again, I'm assuming this is the 8-pin S14 connector under the fuse box.
I actually have been using the FSM from the moment I started deleting things. The problem is that the last time I finished working on the car, I had what I needed to complete written down. Then my stupid depressed ass let months lapse before even touching the car again and OF COURSE the paper is now missing. I'm actually in the process of reassembly and these two wires were the last of what I need to take care of before putting the dash back in. I'm 99% sure that the wire is the ALT-S wire. I know for sure that one end went to the gauge cluster, but I'm just not tracking down in the FSM where it went to the 7.5A fuse. The fuse was labeled ALT-S, so all of the signs are there. I've tracked it down before in the FSM and had the solution written down, but I can't remember clearly enough to make me feel good about it. I'm just the type of person who doubts myself a lot so I look for verification from those with prior experience. I'm gonna reprint the pages from the EL section of the FSM and try to get a 100% answer to this. Thanks for the help man, I appreciate it.
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Old 03-12-2020, 05:48 AM   #23091
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I actually have been using the FSM from the moment I started deleting things. The problem is that the last time I finished working on the car, I had what I needed to complete written down. Then my stupid depressed ass let months lapse before even touching the car again and OF COURSE the paper is now missing. I'm actually in the process of reassembly and these two wires were the last of what I need to take care of before putting the dash back in. ....
I can feel that pain. Mine is an auto to manual conversion. I actually deleted the 3 connectors behind the fuse box and made the chassis side look like it was always a manual. Used wires that went to the old TCU for stuff like the neutral position switch and a clutch interlock for the starter. I'd cry if I lost the wiring diagram notes. Good luck man.
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Old 03-12-2020, 03:44 PM   #23092
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In order to remove/replace the emissions lines and egr on the back of a Ka24e, is it required that you remove the engine or can it be done without pulling the motor out?
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Old 03-12-2020, 04:45 PM   #23093
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In order to remove/replace the emissions lines and egr on the back of a Ka24e, is it required that you remove the engine or can it be done without pulling the motor out?
can absolutely be done IN the car.

just make sure to spray TONS of pb blaster or kroil on all the fasteners, and that stupid pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold over to the intake.
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Old 03-12-2020, 07:01 PM   #23094
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can absolutely be done IN the car.

just make sure to spray TONS of pb blaster or kroil on all the fasteners, and that stupid pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold over to the intake.
Really?

Haven't had a motor in mine for years, but I don't recall the clearance to really do that without a miserable waste of time.

EGR is probably the hardest part of pulling the motor, generally. The motor really needs to come out and have the PCV hose disaster under the intake replaced and refreshed and the separator cleaned, if it needs the stuff on the back done.

You CAN do anything you want in the car, but it's a waste. The KA is very hard to work on in place, if it's got all the original brackets and braces, and especially if you plan to put them back properly. Just pull it, which is pretty easy, and which will expose things that need to be addressed anyway.
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Old 03-13-2020, 11:36 PM   #23095
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Would the charcoal canister off of a ka24de work/fit a ka24e? (1991 canister for 1989)
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:38 AM   #23096
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I can't seem to find it, can anyone point me to the guy who makes the gauge pods that fit into the rotating vents on the cluster surround? I can't seem to find them anywhere and they are not in the 3D printing thread from what I can see.
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:19 AM   #23097
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I can't seem to find it, can anyone point me to the guy who makes the gauge pods that fit into the rotating vents on the cluster surround? I can't seem to find them anywhere and they are not in the 3D printing thread from what I can see.
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:49 AM   #23098
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Old 03-18-2020, 11:38 AM   #23099
Mister.E
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Anyone?

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So i went back to the FSM with all the info I??ve received recently and it looks like that wire went back to an IGN source.

My question now is, when bypassing the bulb and running it straight to the 7.5A IGN source, do I need to put a resistor inline to compensate for the bulb?

What do the guys that switch to aftermarket gauge clusters do with this wire?


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Old 03-18-2020, 06:50 PM   #23100
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No, i wired mine direct n no problem.
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