JBB's redtop s14 build

[Kaifd3s]

The fuel line on the FPR goes to return hard line to the fuel tank. The second fuel line comes from the filter.

[JBB]

Sweet, thats what Im talkin about! Thanks my friend.

It is so nice out I decided to do a little unfinished paint work, totally forgot to hit up my starter and turbo intake pipe





(my new free junk tire is in the background here





Taste the rainbow!!



That was only 1 coat of the rainbow flake, I ended up doing 4 but didnt snap a picture

[JBB]

I didn't get anything on my list accomplished this weekend. It was my friend's birthday so we hung out instead.

I received a z32 MAF adapter (not really picture worthy). I did not receive my tomei turbo outlet; called enjuku and apparently it is back-ordered for 3-4 weeks. This is what FRSport told me 2 weeks ago...

Still trying to piece together my brake and wheel swap. Im looking for some front 26mm aluminum z32 calipers that aren't overpriced

[TonyToniTuna]

About the lines on the Throttle body: (copied from another thread)

The vacuum lines are simple: 3 lines start at the throttle body.
The bottom one goes to the canister, block it off unless you are using the canister.
The larger one on top runs to the bypass valve (BOV), there should be no tee's or branches - go directly to the BOV.
The smaller top line splits to the fuel pressure regulator, and runs across the front of the engine to your boost gauge and/or the boost pressure port on your boost controller.
The wastegate gets its signal from the nipple on the intercooler piping.

[JBB]

Ah dude, that's awesome! Much appreciated

[JBB]

Guys,

Lowered car, greddy oil pain ---- skid plate: yes or no? is the $90 worth it? or should I take the risk?

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by bdubnyc

About the lines on the Throttle body: (copied from another thread)

The vacuum lines are simple: 3 lines start at the throttle body.
The bottom one goes to the canister, block it off unless you are using the canister.
The larger one on top runs to the bypass valve (BOV), there should be no tee's or branches - go directly to the BOV.
The smaller top line splits to the fuel pressure regulator, and runs across the front of the engine to your boost gauge and/or the boost pressure port on your boost controller.
The wastegate gets its signal from the nipple on the intercooler piping.

I will recommend against this. Reason being, considering how vital the FPR is, having a potential failure within the vacuum line system due to new components (as now you have also introduced a boost gauge as well as several other ancillaries) is much too great of a risk to partake!

FPR should have it's own dedicated source from the TB. You are MUCH better off t-ing into the BOV than the FPR. I can live with the BOV not working or having an issue. a FPR having an issue can lead to a completely toasted engine!

The bottom port is what I used for the FPR.

[JBB]

Very interesting. Thanks for the informative post bud! I'm hoping that my build thread can be used by others in the future when they are looking for answers like these, so that's great, it really helps out

[RalliartRsX]

Mind you, not necessarily toasted from running lean, but the FPR would go straight to pump pressure. If the pump pressure is high enough, you can promote a rich-detonation condition. Not quiet as bad as lean ping, but still very bad for the engine nontheless.

Also, you would be chasing your tail for ages wondering why the thing runs so damn rich if a vacuum source for the FPR develops a leak

[240ss]

much parts, such money. looking good though. Glad to see you just got a new turbo. With all that money you spent on everything else, seems kinda odd that you wanted to rebuild a stock t25

[JBB]

Lol, Im glad someone can appreciate how much money I have spent on this thing. The original plan was to run the stock t25 for like a year or so while saving up to go gt2871r.

[TonyToniTuna]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

I will recommend against this. Reason being, considering how vital the FPR is, having a potential failure within the vacuum line system due to new components (as now you have also introduced a boost gauge as well as several other ancillaries) is much too great of a risk to partake!

FPR should have it's own dedicated source from the TB. You are MUCH better off t-ing into the BOV than the FPR. I can live with the BOV not working or having an issue. a FPR having an issue can lead to a completely toasted engine!

The bottom port is what I used for the FPR.

Interesting point. I will also use the bottom port for just the FPR then myself.

EDIT Is that bottom port vacuum?

[coupesallday!]

Subbbeddddddd

[JBB]

No work has been done but I received a couple goodies today


Some 30mm aluminum z32 front calipers



Aaaand some lug nuts

Being broke and slowly working towards this 5 lug conversion and brake upgrade..

[rangerjavi]

Very nice work, still waiting for that motor to be swapped in. Did you ever think about doing the S13.4 valve cover?

[JBB]

The 13.4 valve covers look pretty cool, but, is the benefit really that worthwhile for the cost? They just help recirculate the oil back onto the cams or something right?

I know, everyone wants to see the motor get in there. Im at a standstill because I have no help. There's not much left, just a bunch of little things :\

It will do me no good to get the motor in there right now though because I wouldnt be able to drive anyways. #1 I need to raise my suspension a little bit because my tires rub the fenders. #2, my tires are rubbing the springs on my brand new pbm coilovers (). #3 I got spacers for the front and found that one of my studs is a 1/4" shorter than the others and the lug nut wont thread on with the 6mm spacer ----- mostly why I decided to go forward with the 5 lug swap now. Also, since Im down there I figured I might as well upgrade my brakes as well lol

[rangerjavi]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=228728

Thats what I found so far about it.

[JBB]

Got some rotors and some z32 conversion lines. Now all I need is the expensive stuff lol -- the wheels, tires...and some pads

[JBB]

Dang, the time certainly flies.

I finally got around to drilling out my quest alternator and getting it set up



Ive got a few things coming in this week that I'm pretty excited about. Other than that, no updates for now -- school and work have been keeping me super busy

EDIT: Aaaand I just realized that the codyace adapter is supposed to go behind the alternator not in front like how I have it

[JBB]

Well guys, its been a while. The last parts of my 5 lug puzzle arrived. It was a real hassle dealing with UPS not working with me and my work schedule.

I got some Hawk HPS pads for the z32 calipers and the same for my s14 rear calipers (wow the size difference is crazy)




Some varrstoen es2.2 hyper black 17x9.5 all around and a set of yokohama s drive in 235/40/17

[Arrowking]

Nice build thread! Really nice on the pictures makes for a great thread to sit and relax to! The size difference in the brake pads baffles me. Now I need to save up for a 5 lug swap!

[Oakville]

I have never seen more photos on a single page than on page 1....wow! haha nice build brother.

[JBB]

Well I didnt take as many pictures as I wish I would have.

It took my friend and I a good 12 hours on sunday to do the entire job. --
Get off the 4 lug hubs,
throw on the 5 lug hubs,
load new brake pads into the z32 calipers and stock s14 rear calipers,
slip on new rotors,
attach the z32 calipers and braided lines,
raise front suspension 1/4",
raise rear suspension 1/2",
bolt up the wheels,
install the 17/16" BMC,
bend the hard lines for the bmc,
bleed the brakes

after all was said and done, the rear wheels poke a bit. none of them are rubbing the fender lip but Im going to roll all 4 corners anyways, and the rear will need a slight pull. I may drop back down a little once the roll and pull is done. When I turn the wheel, the inside lip of the front wheels touch my coils, so I need to grab some thin (5mm?) spacers. I actually picked some up today on my way home from work and went to throw them on but they were too large (circumference wise).




this dust cap took me an hour and a half to get off.....









I dont know why but this picture makes the fender areas look pretty empty. In person it looks like the wheels really fill them in well

[JBB]

I scooped up a few 5mm spacers the other day for the front wheels and threw them on. I was only able to get 4/10 of the front lug nuts to click to 80ftlbs while torquing them down (3 on 1 side, 1 on the other, the rest would just spin). I ended up pushing the camber adjustments on the tophat of my coilovers all the way inwards and pulling the knuckle out all the way and there is now [very minimal] clearance between the lip of my wheels and the coilover

I went to roll my fenders today and it was an utter failure. I zip tied my body harness up a little bit but never did the full relocation and hammering of that metal lip inside the wheel well, so guess what? the roller continually got stopped by either the harness or the metal lip. There was about 1/4 of the arch that I could roll.

Before I could even use it though, my front hubs werent spinning with the car in the air so I couldnt even turn the roller. I poked my head in there and wouldn't you know, the bolts that hold the calipers on were sticking out and touching the back the rotors. I thought I remembered someone saying they used a 2nd washer when using their stock bolts with these calipers! I got some 12mm crush washers and it fixed the pass. side, but I found some new problems on the drivers side.

Apparently the metal "wear indicator" is carving a ring around the center part of my rotor. The top and the bottom of the actual caliper are also rubbing a nice ring around the outside diameter of the rotor. wtf man so many problems!! Not sure how to fix this rubbing, its almost like the caliper is a little crooked or something, maybe I should try more washers? or more on just the bottom or just the top to try it tilt it straight? I have no idea, if its not one thing, its another.

Here are some fun pictures:






Besides that fun stuff, apparently trying to torque down my sweet neochrome lug nuts with those spacers on caused the inside threads to strip out and the front 10 are useless now.

[dorinights13]

i believe its because you have the abs style rotors which will grind on the brakes double check them. the same thing happened to me when i did my 5 lug conversion. i had the abs rotors on a non abs car lmao

[rangerjavi]

You're supposed to have extended lug nuts when having spacers, well obviously not the bigger spacers that have studs on them. Turbo II RX-7's have longer studs that fit Nissan's.

[JBB]

I'll have to give it a look in the morning, Im way too worn out to go jack my car up and pull the wheels off again. Is there any way to tell by the item #? I got these from FRSport: Brembo 40206 04U03 OE Replacement Front Brake Rotor Disc 300ZX Z32 280x30mm
Item #: 40206 04U03
http://www.frsport.com/Brembo-40206-...m_p_15411.html

[ZERTA RACING]

Are you sure the calipers are the 30mm version? I have 30mm calipers and rotors on my car and the clearance is nowhere near that tight. *Referring to the last picture.

This is the brake swap guide I used and it shows the difference between the three 300zx calipers.
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm


Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[JBB]

I bought them off of someone here on zilvia, advertised as 30mm. I will take a measurement today
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=555715

[JBB]

I just measured and they are most definitely 26mm.