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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-30-2015, 02:52 PM | #31 |
What intercooler kit are you using bmaddock or did you piece it together yourself?
This write up is amazing im about to start this journey soon just picked up a r154 last week |
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08-01-2015, 08:02 AM | #32 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Thanks dude, it's actually a Greddy SR kit I used back when I was KA-T. I needed new piping for the engine bay though but it was easy to make work. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you need help.
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08-22-2015, 05:27 PM | #33 |
hey man great build! i currently actually have a the same swap in my s13! jzx110 s13 love lol. actually have a question, have you looked into any AC write ups to get the AC to work in an s13? i already have everything set up, compressor, lines, condenser, etc, just need to wire the compressor and fill it with freon to get it working but for the life of me, i cant find anything on any "plenty of threads explaining their Frankenstein AC setups using Nissan and Toyota parts" lol
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09-08-2015, 09:58 AM | #34 | |
Leaky Injector
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09-08-2015, 11:39 AM | #35 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Basically all you need is custom lines with toyota fittings on one end and nissan on the other, as far as wiring I take it you don't have the AC compressor plug on your wiring harness? You can stick the condenser just about anywhere it fits.
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09-08-2015, 05:06 PM | #36 |
Leaky Injector
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Yea thats what i figured about the lines. My s13 wiring harness is uncut and ive got all s13 ac stuff. Ac blew cold a month ago prior to ripping out ka. Im more worried about the condensor taking up some airflow to the radiator. Im honestly slapping my engine in this week without the ac at first just becuase of the cost right now. Just want to start this thing up in the car
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09-09-2015, 04:19 PM | #37 |
09-10-2015, 08:56 AM | #38 |
Zilvia Member
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Hey Ben, think we can arrange a drag race at Shelor next car show?
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'95 240 | @SleepySteve72 |
09-10-2015, 11:16 AM | #39 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yeah dude! I would be very interested to see how that goes. I've had the car down for the past few weeks doing some other stuff but that would be fun. You can probably run against an RB25 swap, KA-T and big single 2J too....I should be bringing some friends. I think the show is october 17th?
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09-10-2015, 11:51 AM | #40 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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09-15-2015, 01:22 PM | #41 | |
Zilvia Member
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But yeah I'll try to make it down with the fun car instead of the blue whale for once.
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09-15-2015, 02:31 PM | #42 |
Leaky Injector
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Yo im swapping a 2jzge in my s13 right now. Went to go wire it but when i got to the f1 plug wiring the color of the wires were different from the guide im using. Did nissan just mix match the wire colors when they ran out at the factory or something
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12-27-2015, 10:55 AM | #45 |
sick thread bro!!! i got the same build going.. just in the process of relocating the battery to the trunk and powering everything up.. just not really sure what needs direct power and what wire i need to connect to power the fuse box. any help would be greatly appreciated... i just wanna drive this thing already!!!
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01-04-2016, 06:52 AM | #46 | ||
Zilvia Junkie
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01-05-2016, 11:57 AM | #47 |
Zilvia Member
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Do you remember if Shelor needs you to have windows up or down in a car? Just realized that may be an issue... Or do you think cage + window nets will make them settle down?
P.S. - Race Friday before the spring show?
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'95 240 | @SleepySteve72 |
04-03-2016, 09:41 PM | #50 |
Leaky Injector
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04-14-2016, 08:04 AM | #52 |
Zilvia Junkie
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thanks for this write up, good read.
about to dive into this swap and a few questions for you etcs vs ects-i... with the i do you just need to remove the 2nd butterfly and patch that up or is there wiring/ other issues to address? ppl have told me to stick with the etcs, for ease. and will a 2jz oil pump bolt onto the 1jz vvti? is this a recommended upgrade? |
04-15-2016, 06:20 AM | #53 |
Zilvia Junkie
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@Black240ct
I wrote a small section on the difference between these throttle bodies on post #2, you should read it. You can run with an etcs-i throttle body, you will just be drive-by-wire. Some say it has a delayed feel but you'll get used to it in no time. ETCS is the drive-by-cable setup. You can convert an ETCS-I setup to ETCS with a jzz30/jzx100 throttle body, MAF, ECU, and harness.....but its not worth spending all that money and effort to convert unless you already have those parts lying around. You have two options the way I look at it: 1. embrace the DBW ETCS-I 2. return your motor to the importer and ask for a jzz30/jzx100 1j vvti with the etcs throttle body Oil pump is up to you, me and my friends all are running the oil pump that came with the motor but it isn't too hard to disassemble it, verify the clearances and determine if a new one is needed. 2J pump is just a usdm bolt-on option. |
04-28-2016, 06:15 AM | #55 |
Zilvia Junkie
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http://my.is/forums/f114/bc-cam-inst...pulley-375420/
interesting read on properly setting the vvti cam gear and intake cam, when changing a timing belt. |
05-16-2016, 06:06 AM | #56 |
Zilvia Junkie
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found some helpful information while wiring my swap.
my ECU had a B/Y and B/R wires (Batt and b+), hooked these up to a ecu relay and this was all i needed to get my ecu to turn on and fire. these came from plug "G" The ECU has an output to the fuel pump relay, it sends a ground signal. I just wired the fuel pump relay to another switch. these are on plug "H" The sensors need power though thin B/R wires and like a blue female to female connector that was taped to the main engine harness by the ecu. the plug #3 has all B/W wires, these are individual power to each injector , each coil, and a voltage check relay that mounts next to the ignitor, I ran all the injector powers to one injector relay, ran the rest to a ignition relay. the tach signal comes from the igniter chip, ive read it was lables "IGN -" mine was labled "TAC" and is a thin G/B wire. I removed all the boost switches and sensors under the intake manifold and turbo side so removed all those wires, removed the Trac control in the front of the Throttle body and removed all of those wirtes as well. a majority of the unused plugs on the engine harness went to the diagnostic box near the intake manifold. i removed alll of those wires also. so powering the injector and coils, the sensor powers, two ecu wires was all i needed to wire to get it to fire up. |
06-16-2016, 09:30 PM | #59 |
Leaky Injector
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Near the top side towards the fire wall, looking at it head on, the right is where your 2 bolts sit to bolt your starter up. Make sure you get a good dent in this area otherwise you will have one hell of a time taking the starter out. Otherwise you will need to move the engine off the cross member to get to it which is a complete pain. Massage that entire height around the whole tunnel with a rubber mallet. The rest of the transmission fits pretty snug.
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