74 260z - Garaged over 20 yrs - Help!

[speeddreamz]

I've recently convinced my Uncle to finally give up his old 260z that has been sitting in the garage with deflated tires for over 20 years.

I haven't had an opportunity to look at it in details in terms of its condition but I will update the forum as things progress.

Things I know:
Deflated Tires - I will try and re-inflate first otherwise probably opt for a new set of tires/rims

Battery - I know it will need a new battery, any tips here?


Pre-start or start attempt items - assuming I get the first 2 items taken care of, what else do I need to do?

My list so far:
-Drain oil replace fuel filter, replace with oil.
-Prime the oil pump by removing the fuse or the distributor cap (crank engine without any spark)
-Drain Fuel Tank - replace with fresh fuel
-Drain coolant system, replace with new (I assume it won't kill the engine to not have fluids to start up the car.
-Drain and replace transmission fluid
-Test brakes

Oh lastly, my plans for the car:
LS1 Conversion
Rear brake - disc brakes
R200 diff
Wheels/Tires
Suspension being replaced, including bushings at some point.

[DS562]

dont forget to flush the fuel lines too. but it sounds like you're on point! also, you better document and post a build thread for this

[dawagarage]

if the tires are 20 years old, dont try to reinflate them and drive public streets with them.

battery: nothing special. unless youre gonna run high powered audio

yes drain the oil, replace with new OIL filter. and then you should prime the engine by rotating the pump, you dont have to rotate anything else but the pump (if its anything like the 4 cylinder datsuns.) How to Prime oil pump on a new L motor before first start up - How-To - Ratsun Forums

my datsun sat for only 5+ years in socal and even with fuel in the tank, a lot of rust accumulated in the tank.

save yourself the trouble of clogged lines, filters, etc by dropping the tank and at least inspecting it. there are a few diy ways to clean the tank but after going through it, NEXT time im just going to take it to be cleaned at a radiator shop. while youre at it, replace the associated rubber fuel lines.

coolant system, drain & flush the system.

the transmission is sealed so i dont think its degraded over the past 20 years but if you
feel like replacing it, go ahead. ensure you get yellow metal safe fluid. not just any fluid will do. oreilly, autozone, pepboys, and a few others didnt have it. Napa does. sta lube makes it.

brakes: might as well flush out the old brake fluid and replace it with new, then bleed the system. the rest of the braking system should be good.

if you dont have an account on ratsun already, go ahead and sign up. LOTS of helpful info on there and theyre a lot nicer. it will your most favorite forum in the world.

oh lastly
i hate that youre gonna take a 20+ garaged Z and throw
in an LS1. it would be such an awesome resto project. at the least you could
sell this Z for a good price, buy another, and then make that your project car.
but hey thats just my opinion, do what you want with your car

[JeeBus]

ls1?

Just buy a camaro and let the Z sit in your uncles garage for another 20 years.

[skyline_guy777]

Yea I'd do at least a sr20, or rb26 in that classic man avoid the LS1 hype but its your car

[speeddreamz]

Originally Posted by skyline_guy777

Yea I'd do at least a sr20, or rb26 in that classic man avoid the LS1 hype but its your car

Curious why the SR20 or RB26.

I've had 2 SR20s, and 1 RB25det in a s14a.

Figured I'd try the v8. Hype as in like its not even close to 350 crank horsepower? or Hype as in its not worth the money?

[speeddreamz]

Quite possible that I will go with a resto instead of a new engine.

A lot of this dictates what condition I find the engine in.

Would you recommend I just get new Rims/Tires or a used set?

Originally Posted by hotboiblaze

if the tires are 20 years old, dont try to reinflate them and drive public streets with them.

battery: nothing special. unless youre gonna run high powered audio

yes drain the oil, replace with new OIL filter. and then you should prime the engine by rotating the pump, you dont have to rotate anything else but the pump (if its anything like the 4 cylinder datsuns.) How to Prime oil pump on a new L motor before first start up - How-To - Ratsun Forums

my datsun sat for only 5+ years in socal and even with fuel in the tank, a lot of rust accumulated in the tank.

save yourself the trouble of clogged lines, filters, etc by dropping the tank and at least inspecting it. there are a few diy ways to clean the tank but after going through it, NEXT time im just going to take it to be cleaned at a radiator shop. while youre at it, replace the associated rubber fuel lines.

coolant system, drain & flush the system.

the transmission is sealed so i dont think its degraded over the past 20 years but if you
feel like replacing it, go ahead. ensure you get yellow metal safe fluid. not just any fluid will do. oreilly, autozone, pepboys, and a few others didnt have it. Napa does. sta lube makes it.

brakes: might as well flush out the old brake fluid and replace it with new, then bleed the system. the rest of the braking system should be good.

if you dont have an account on ratsun already, go ahead and sign up. LOTS of helpful info on there and theyre a lot nicer. it will your most favorite forum in the world.

oh lastly
i hate that youre gonna take a 20+ garaged Z and throw
in an LS1. it would be such an awesome resto project. at the least you could
sell this Z for a good price, buy another, and then make that your project car.
but hey thats just my opinion, do what you want with your car

[SharkMan]

If the tires have set for 20 years and are deflated, you bet they are rotted. And I'm sure he's saying not to take chances and try to drive with those on a public street. Never the less I'm sure you don't plan on keeping driving it around on those tires anyways.

IMO go with restoring and building the motor and stay away from the ls1 it feels like youd be defacing a diamond in the rough.

[Homeboyx]

Pics or ban!!

[Shanevasquez]

if it is in good condition do not screw with it!!!

[dawagarage]

there is a good supply of nice, inexpensive, used wheels for the Z.
definitely new tires though (because yes theyve probably rotted/degraded.)
another set of wheels is up to you. the stock wheels on my 280z were 14s.
14" tires are harder to find than modern sized tires (but not impossible.)

also, you can convert from 4 lug to 5 lug, so buying wheels now might be a waste.
its up to you

[speeddreamz]

Originally Posted by Homeboyx

Pics or ban!!

I saw it once a couple years ago when I initially asked to buy it (when I got the refusal via how about 5000 dollars). I don't anticipate it having deteriorated much since the garage is sealed and the car is trapped behind boxes.

I am going to be going by in about a month to see if I can view it, and then 1 month later to get it out of there. So again, I haven't seen the thing in a couple years.

I made a deal with my uncle for 350.00, and my aunt says, i'll pay your uncle that if you get the darn thing out... score.

[speeddreamz]

Originally Posted by SharkMan

If the tires have set for 20 years and are deflated, you bet they are rotted. And I'm sure he's saying not to take chances and try to drive with those on a public street. Never the less I'm sure you don't plan on keeping driving it around on those tires anyways.

IMO go with restoring and building the motor and stay away from the ls1 it feels like youd be defacing a diamond in the rough.

Building the l26?


Can anyone fill me in on smog-ability? As I recall there is no smog required for 1975 and earlier?

Again if I keep the l26 or put an LS1, what are smog concerns? Anyone in California chime in?

[dawagarage]

yessir. 1975 or older
Smog Information
you can put whatever engine you want in that shit and be good.

the stock L26 is pretty worthy.
most of my knowledge is in regards to datsuns 4 cylinders but i
believe the L26 is still carb'd. carburetors are freaking awesome. no ecu to fuck with, so not a shit ton of wires.

[drift freaq]

As far as the L26 goes its a beauty of the L series. Change the head out for an early L24 and have L28 valves installed in the head with a port job and a cam. The engine will have a broad flat torque band that will blow L28's into the weeds. Rev like an L24 with the torque of an L28. Best of the worlds.
I would most likely keep the L26 in the car though because its original and due to the fact that 260Z's were only made 1 year they have turned into a bit of collectors item.
I would not toss an LS1 in it or for that fact any S30 as it has way to much torque for the chassis unless you cage the damn things. Oh and that car does not sound like a candidate for that kind of setup. It is a for an Original resto with a few performance mods like suspension and some internal engine stuff. Other than that keep it classic.

[TheRealSy90]

Please keep the L26 in it. As he said they were only made one year and if the car is in as good condition as i'm guessing it's you really have something special.

[skyline_guy777]

Originally Posted by speeddreamz

Curious why the SR20 or RB26.

I've had 2 SR20s, and 1 RB25det in a s14a.

Figured I'd try the v8. Hype as in like its not even close to 350 crank horsepower? or Hype as in its not worth the money?

Well id go RB26 then if your looking for some big power and it will be fairly compatible with your car being a Datsun, and the aftermarket support and horsepower is easily gained with that motor if done right.

[speeddreamz]

update ====================

its actually a 280z. not sure what year.

can anyone tell from the engine badge?

[LoneStarSilvia]

Hard to tell from the badge, but it's definitely a 280Z, they started making them in 1975. Do you have any of the original paperwork or title?

I suggest a turbo L28 if you're going to swap engines. Keeping it old school and still make great power and sounding damn good while doing it.

[bc.]

Please oh please get a better camera before you post any more pictures.

[7x13]

Skip the LS and go for a more traditional 350 Small Block

I would personally go SR20 or L28ET

good luck with your build though
looking forward to seeing it

[S14kouki_10]

It's and early 280z. 75-76

[speeddreamz]

Originally Posted by S14kouki_10

It's and early 280z. 75-76

right you are, 76 on the pink slip.

[Homeboyx]

Oof! The pain of still having to do smog! I feel it also with my '76! *facepalm*

[aga]

change displacement to 3.1 litres, turbo it, paint it blue, black watanabes and hit the wangan.

[speeddreamz]

so I'm trying to get the oil filter off its really stuck. tried to use one of those metal strap wrenches it just crushed the oil filter. this was after trying a end cap wrench. after I tried the flathead screwdriver thru the filter and turn, just ripped the metal. I am going to try a leather /rubber strap wrench, then the pliers looking oil filter wrench. was thinking heat or cold and perhaps trying to tap turn the filter off bit by bit with flat head. advice ?

[speeddreamz]

tips for getting a stuck on filter off ? tried end cap wrench, metal step wrench, flatness thru the filter and.turn method. all no luck. they just deform the filter.,,

[S14kouki_10]

You are twisting to the left right? I've crushed oil filters before but broke them lose by then

[speeddreamz]

Originally Posted by S14kouki_10

You are twisting to the left right? I've crushed oil filters before but broke them lose by then

righty tighty, lefty loosey

[devilzdriver]

Originally Posted by speeddreamz

I've recently convinced my Uncle to finally give up his old 260z that has been sitting in the garage with deflated tires for over 20 years.

I haven't had an opportunity to look at it in details in terms of its condition but I will update the forum as things progress.

Things I know:
Deflated Tires - I will try and re-inflate first otherwise probably opt for a new set of tires/rims

Battery - I know it will need a new battery, any tips here?


Pre-start or start attempt items - assuming I get the first 2 items taken care of, what else do I need to do?

My list so far:
-Drain oil replace fuel filter, replace with oil.
-Prime the oil pump by removing the fuse or the distributor cap (crank engine without any spark)
-Drain Fuel Tank - replace with fresh fuel
-Drain coolant system, replace with new (I assume it won't kill the engine to not have fluids to start up the car.
-Drain and replace transmission fluid
-Test brakes

Oh lastly, my plans for the car:
LS1 Conversion
Rear brake - disc brakes
R200 diff
Wheels/Tires
Suspension being replaced, including bushings at some point.

If you have a 260z and its bone stock and trying to get it started, replace the fuel filter, check the oil in the flat tops unless he was smart and replaced them with SU's still check them, make sure the floats move freely. Replace the cap and rotor, plugs and wires never hurt, coolant change, replace the batter if its the same one from 20 years its done. check the fusable links to make sure they are not corroded like crazy. I have owned quite a few S30's and not a fan of swapping engines but to each their own. I've driven a Scarab and it was insane so i can only image a LS1.

Edit ##

Minus the carb stuff, and check the other stuff, the water temp sensors WILL GIVE YOU HELL! (Be fore warned)