Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Canadian-RB25-S13]

Originally Posted by Thursday7

I'd be willing to bet it mounts like any aftermarket FRP front bumper, and doubt that you need OEM Kouki brackets to mount it "properly". If it were me, I'd use generic hardware and shims to mount it to the brackets by the headlights/hood, drill holes and fasten it to the fenders, and run Autocollect Storm 180sx bumper guides. Can't comment on the fitment quality of VIS, I believe their stuff is from the same factory as Extreme Dimensions.

Thanks for the info. I also learned yesterday that DorkiDori makes a full type-x kit now, was going to order their skirts and valences anyway, might just get everything from there.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Canadian-RB25-S13

Thanks for the info. I also learned yesterday that DorkiDori makes a full type-x kit now, was going to order their skirts and valences anyway, might just get everything from there.

i dont ship to canada... if you have someone here in the US i can ship to and you can pick up from, i can arrange that.

[Canadian-RB25-S13]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

i dont ship to canada... if you have someone here in the US i can ship to and you can pick up from, i can arrange that.

Hey thanks for reaching out, that's good to know.

I'll see if I can make something like that work.

[cured13]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

i dont ship to canada...

and why is that brother?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by cured13

and why is that brother?

its expensive... i hate dealing with FedEX customs forms... and i currently dont have the time or patience to start researching carriers to reliably and affordably bring large items into Canada.

dorkidori is my 2nd job. it occupies my freetime and my weekends. i am currently focusing on doing things that will allow it to become my full time job in a few years. when it becomes my full time job, i will then have the time to properly pursue getting my parts into Canada via reliable and affordable means.

i understand that so many people around the world want my parts... and i am getting beyond pissed off with myself for not being able to do everything everyone wants from me. i can only do so much at once, and right now i am focusing on making things happen that will allow me to stop getting pissed off at myself so often.

[DatCamber]

Been trying to figure out some running rich issues. Previous owner didn't have the Knock sensor connected. (Actually there is no knock sensor installed at all).

I know you can trick the ECU into thinking it's connecting with some kind of resistor.

I pulled the codes from the ECU and I'm getting 55 from my Yashio Factory Okachan WT v3 through the consult port. Wouldn't there be a code if the knock sensor isn't installed/connected? Where would I look to try to find the resistor if it was rigged up with that to trick the ECU?

[burnsauto]

If there is a resistor, best bet is checking around that area of the harness. You don't necessarily need to ground using one in the harness, so if you find some random ground wire that doesn't belong, you may want to chase it down. But if there is a resistor wired in, unless it shit the bed it wouldn't be running rich.

Since it's throwing a code 55, you may want to look other places. How rich are you running, do you have a wideband to give an exact number? Either way, fix the knock sensor issue before you move forward, that way you know you've got that issue resolved, and if you continue to have issues of running too rich, you know it's somewhere else in the system.

..how much of the original emissions system is still in use on the engine?

[DatCamber]

Originally Posted by burnsauto

If there is a resistor, best bet is checking around that area of the harness. You don't necessarily need to ground using one in the harness, so if you find some random ground wire that doesn't belong, you may want to chase it down. But if there is a resistor wired in, unless it shit the bed it wouldn't be running rich.

Since it's throwing a code 55, you may want to look other places. How rich are you running, do you have a wideband to give an exact number? Either way, fix the knock sensor issue before you move forward, that way you know you've got that issue resolved, and if you continue to have issues of running too rich, you know it's somewhere else in the system.

..how much of the original emissions system is still in use on the engine?

Thanks for the response. I'll check around for some ground that doesn't need to be there. No wideband yet. I should get one just to diagnose the issue though. No emissions still in check as far as I know, EGR gone, and charcoal canister gone as well. Sprayed some carb cleaner around the manifold, and didn't notice any increase in idle.
I was having tons of issues with leaky injectors, replaced all 4 with brand new OEM ones. Coolant temp sensor was cut when I got the car, pigtailed a new wire to connect a brand new one, O2 sensor has also been changed. Haven't done anything with the MAF yet. Voltages look okay through the Okachan water temp unit. Worth cleaning or is that snake oil? I've heard mixed opinions.

Another question though--- been fucking annoying me after today.

So I decided to finally pop in these H4 LED bulbs in my Hella H4 headlights today.
Headlights were okay before, I did notice the right one didn't want to come up as high as the left headlight, and I'd have to tap the headlight button to bring them down sometimes. Brown wire was cut, but looks like it was re-connected by someone.

So installing the right headlight, all is well, no issues. Works fine.

Installed the left bulb, me being an idiot, somehow closed the headlight with the headlight not installed fully (to test the LED bulb). The motor got stuck and wouldn't go up, and would keep going up and down every 2 seconds. The motor definitely got warm.
Pulled the fuse/relay on the passenger side fuse box, didn't do shit. Had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop.

Upon further investigation, saw the rubber was stuck in between and preventing the headlight from closing properly. Moved that, now have a different issue.

Using the wiper-stalk, my left headlight goes up, but then when I close it with the headlight button, the right one goes up, but the bulb doesn't turn on.

When the left headlight is up, the bulb on the right is on, but not when the right headlight is up. The right headlight will also not go down, and I can't seem to manually adjust the headlights with the motors with the battery on, I twist it, and it will eventually spin itself back to wherever it wants to be. I do hear some sound from the relay box (under the intake) when I do this twisting thing and the motor moves itself. No idea if I blew the relay, or which would it would be.

Would love some diagnosis tips, as frankly, I'm quite clueless when it comes to electrical stuff. Sorry for the wall of text.

Cheers!

[burnsauto]

I'll leave your headlight dilemma for someone else, it's hard to diagnose when your not in front of the car. I would say to just double check everything you touched, and look at any other signs of someone else touching the harness. It sounds like your car was worked on by a dull apprentice with a knife before you got your hands on it. If all else fails, trying going back to the original setup and see if the car goes back to normal. With aftermarket stuff being made wherever by whoever, just because it's new, doesn't mean you can always trust it. Again, these are just general rules I try to stick to when troubleshooting. If someone worked before, and then stopped after I did, then I made a mistake I need to track down. If you can, invest in a power probe (usually around 100 bucks). It'll make tracking down electrical gremlins a lot easier, and you can bench test motors and such to rule them out as being the problem.

I wouldn't say that cleaning the MAF is snake oil, if the sensor wire is full of junk, it could throw off the reading and give inaccurate information to the ecu. Not sure if that's causing your rich issue though. The lack of emission equipment will make the engine run on the richer side of things though. You shouldn't be fouling plugs or anything like that, but unless it's had a tune to correct for it, you can expect that to happen.

[blackmags91]

Where does one go for new wheel lips?
Seems like ThreePieceUS or whatever gets shit on so much that it doesnt make sense to try to work with them.
VR Wheels apparently is so backed up they don't know which way is up. Been trying to get them to take my money for almost 6 months with no luck.

Any suggestions?

[ZenkiKid]

Will a transmission leak if it was overfilled with fluid? I was always under the impression it does. Happened all 3x I replaced the fluid in my transmission.

I recently had my clutch replaced and fluid replaced as well and noticed a small leak around the transmission area once again. Im assuming its from it being overfilled. It seems to start leaking after car has been running.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by ZenkiKid

Will a transmission leak if it was overfilled with fluid? I was always under the impression it does. Happened all 3x I replaced the fluid in my transmission.

I recently had my clutch replaced and fluid replaced as well and noticed a small leak around the transmission area once again. Im assuming its from it being overfilled. It seems to start leaking after car has been running.

maybe im missing something here but unless you fill the transmission from the top, it is impossible to over fill the transmission from the side fill hole. excess will simply not be able to stay in the transmission when you put the bolt back in the fill hole.

[Reece]

S13 SR20
Wiring specialties harness
New MAF, new TPS, timed correctly, new Walbro 255
Bone stock aside from front mount and turbo elbow
Starts fine, idles fine, dies if I open the throttle at all. What in the fuck.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by ZenkiKid

Will a transmission leak if it was overfilled with fluid? I was always under the impression it does. Happened all 3x I replaced the fluid in my transmission.

I recently had my clutch replaced and fluid replaced as well and noticed a small leak around the transmission area once again. Im assuming its from it being overfilled. It seems to start leaking after car has been running.

The transmission area is a big area, where on the transmission is it coming from?

The fill and drain plugs are pipe thread, and will seep a little bit if they don't have sealer on them - they shouldn't drip, they'll just have a big stain around them on the case.

Being overfilled can absolutely make it leak, but not just the 'ol extra half quart squeeze, it would take a good bit - when the car's moving, there's a pretty violent whirlwind of oil in the tranny, it's not just sitting at the fill level as you go down the road, so adding a bit more won't actually raise the level in a way that stresses (healthy) seals.

You can take out the fill plug, if it drains fluid it's overfilled, if you can't easily dip your finger in it it's underfilled.

It sounds like you went to a shop (or someone else) for the clutch - the best way to know is to have a good rapport with your mechanic, get pictures while things are done, etc. They'll know what was leaking, unless it's everything.

Do you have a good mechanic or a cheap mechanic? If there was a tranny leak, I'd expect them to try to sell you that repair while they did the clutch.

[burnsauto]

Originally Posted by blackmags91

Where does one go for new wheel lips?
Seems like ThreePieceUS or whatever gets shit on so much that it doesnt make sense to try to work with them.
VR Wheels apparently is so backed up they don't know which way is up. Been trying to get them to take my money for almost 6 months with no luck.

Any suggestions?

You can try Rim Halves. They get their lips/Barrels from the same place all the other trendy brands get theirs, TiangleHardAlloys. Only thing is you have to make up a "business" to order from them. I've heard of guys doing it without any issues.

linky

https://www.amcrimhalves.com/Rim-Halves/

[DEGUZZI]

Any recommendations for edge trim/gasket to line the mating edge of aero?

Something OEM style like this:

[Silv1401]

You can use Sika Flex. That's what Akira Nakai uses when building an RWB.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

[Corbic]

What part number is Bushing Number 7?

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by Corbic

What part number is Bushing Number 7?

I believe is #55152-35F00

[Reece]

Blacktop SR20

-new MAF
-new O2
-new TPS
-timing is correct
-new walbro 255
-new FPR
-new wiring specialties pro harness
Turns on and dies a few seconds later, won't rev
Help

[snags]

Originally Posted by DEGUZZI

Any recommendations for edge trim/gasket to line the mating edge of aero?

Something OEM style like this:

I recently ran into this problem when mounting my type x lip... I looked at "door edge trim" like from a dollar store or ebay, used on a car door edge to protect from scrapes and door dents i guess? I found it was a bit too wide for me and I ended up actually just slitting a thin vaccuum line, and a dab of super glue every 4 inches or so to stick it down. Looks awesome

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Reece

Blacktop SR20

-new MAF
-new O2
-new TPS
-timing is correct
-new walbro 255
-new FPR
-new wiring specialties pro harness
Turns on and dies a few seconds later, won't rev
Help

OEM MAF or aftermarket? did you replace the ECU water temp sensor?

[Reece]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

OEM MAF or aftermarket? did you replace the ECU water temp sensor?

SOHC KA MAF, I have not replaced the temp sensor

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by Reece

SOHC KA MAF, I have not replaced the temp sensor

30 year old MAF might be bad.

[Corbic]

Anyone know where a good place to get Type-M side skirts for a R32? Places sell rep-rear spats but no one seems to either have Used OEM or Replicas.

Hell, doesn't seem like anyone makes replica anything for R32s. Just damn Duraflex.

[Reece]

Originally Posted by Corbic

30 year old MAF might be bad.

Worked totally fine on a different car.

[Corbic]

Anyone know where a good place to get Type-M side skirts for a R32? Places sell rep-rear spats but no one seems to either have Used OEM or Replicas.

Hell, doesn't seem like anyone makes replica anything for R32s. Just damn Duraflex.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Reece

SOHC KA MAF, I have not replaced the temp sensor

replace temp sensor first (ECU sensor, NOT gauge sensor... SR20 uses KA24de water temp ECU sensor). make sure FPR is plumbed correctly (in that u dont have it backwards). try jumping your fuel pump RELAY (not fuse) if none of this works.

[BryanSayWhat]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Anyone know where a good place to get Type-M side skirts for a R32? Places sell rep-rear spats but no one seems to either have Used OEM or Replicas.

Hell, doesn't seem like anyone makes replica anything for R32s. Just damn Duraflex.

https://www.kmakaero.com.au/r32-mspe...-skirts-2-door

They have a bunch of other R32 aero rep bits as well.

[DatCamber]

How the fuck do you get the Ignition resistor out?

Seems like it has two slots on each side, been trying at it with a flathead, but completely ruined most of the plastic. Anyone know how to get this resistor out for the ignition? Trying to diagnose a no spark, crank running condition. Changed the coil/module with no luck already..

This is what I'm talking about.

https://imgur.com/IntqCWO