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Old 06-05-2019, 07:06 PM   #22681
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

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pics of said covers?



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Old 06-05-2019, 07:10 PM   #22682
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I like em. Get them if you like em and you think the price is fair.
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Old 06-06-2019, 12:32 AM   #22683
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So today I went to lower the rear and then noticed I had already maxxed the coilovers out [emoji23]

But I have another question. My passenger side rear sits about an inch higher than the drivers side rear. Why would that be if the coilovers are maxxed out at same level? Would it be the preload?

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Old 06-06-2019, 10:57 AM   #22684
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has your car ever been in an accident?
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Old 06-06-2019, 11:30 AM   #22685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 180sx_ View Post
My passenger side rear sits about an inch higher than the drivers side rear. Why would that be if the coilovers are maxxed out at same level? Would it be the preload?
Preload &/or weight. It's common to have a slight variance. See 'corner balancing'.
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Old 06-06-2019, 12:27 PM   #22686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 180sx_ View Post
So today I went to lower the rear and then noticed I had already maxxed the coilovers out [emoji23]

But I have another question. My passenger side rear sits about an inch higher than the drivers side rear. Why would that be if the coilovers are maxxed out at same level? Would it be the preload?
It may also be that your driveway or whatever parking surface is not truly level
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:02 PM   #22687
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I just bought s13 with Ka24e. In order to pass emissions I believe I have to put on allll the emissions stuff back, charcoal canister, egr valve, ugly vacuum shit behind the head, etc... I don’t have any of the parts for this and I’m not sure where to find all of it so here’s my question:

Is there any way to pass emissions without all of this or does anyone know the bare minimum I need?
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:04 PM   #22688
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I posted that twice idk how to delete this
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Old 06-06-2019, 05:41 PM   #22689
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I just bought s13 with Ka24e. In order to pass emissions I believe I have to put on allll the emissions stuff back, charcoal canister, egr valve, ugly vacuum shit behind the head, etc... I don’t have any of the parts for this and I’m not sure where to find all of it so here’s my question:

Is there any way to pass emissions without all of this or does anyone know the bare minimum I need?
depends what state you live in. i'm assuming california, in which case, yes, you need all of that shit if you want to pass it legit. if you know a lazy smog shop you might be able to pass without if they don't pop the hood and your car is running clean with a decent working cat, but then you run the risk of having it fail, which looks sketchy on your smog record.

people are always parting out their shit i'm sure if you post a wtb here or facebook, someone would have what you need.
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:21 PM   #22690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jumpman2334 View Post
has your car ever been in an accident?
Nope not that I know of.

I measured my preload and both are the same. Which confuses me

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Old 06-06-2019, 08:06 PM   #22691
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Hello,

I spent some time searching for an answer but I dont think I was using the correct keywords. I wanted to ask, I recently got an alignment and, according to the tech, the front camber is the same on both sides. Yet when I look at the top hats of my coil over, the slot positions are different; one is in the middle the other is all the way out. One wheel rubs on turns and the other doesnt (could be fenders are uneven). What could this be?

I have coil overs, adjustable tension rods, stock LCA with NEW balljoints, and new OE outer tie rods in the front. The car has been significantly lowered from stock.

Rear end has all adjustable arms and stock LCA with new balljoints.

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Old 06-06-2019, 08:28 PM   #22692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
Yet when I look at the top hats of my coil over, the slot positions are different; one is in the middle the other is all the way out. One wheel rubs on turns and the other doesnt (could be fenders are uneven). What could this be?
Maybe the top hat/camber plates are positioned incorrectly? Thought that may depend on the C/O design. Just a guess. Pic may help too.

**edit** One side may have additional camber at the knuckle.

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Old 06-06-2019, 11:09 PM   #22693
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Quote:
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**edit** One side may have additional camber at the knuckle.
that’s my bet. slotted lower coilovers mounts not in the same position. that or.... a strut tower is pushed in...
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Old 06-07-2019, 02:47 AM   #22694
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KA Remanufactured Mass air flow doesn’t work maybe?

My Ka24e SOHC was bogging down and running like shit so I checked some stuff: Before I replaced the mass air flow sensor I cleaned it noticing one of the filaments were broke off so I figured this was causing issues.

My car would run like shit before and idle with at least responsive gas, be restricted to like 2000 rpms and all that good stuff, symptoms of a MAF being bad.

I checked vacuum lines I checked spark plugs, injectors replaced, the fuel pump seems to be working and it was replaced by previous owner, I rewired the connector for the Mass air flow sensor, the fuel pressure regulator seems fine, cleaned the iacv, brake booster hoses is there. I’m pretty sure all the intake holes are capped. I’m not sure if he ran anything to the check valve near gas tank after deleting charcoal canister but I don’t think it causes these problems as the car runs without the maf sensor, the car will idle until there is no more gas. Distributor cap and ignition coil seem to have been recently replaced by previous owner. I don’t hear anything from timing chain but I honestly haven’t looked at it, haven’t checked compression, new throttle position sensor, new o2 sensor, new header + exhaust. Battery is good. cleaned throttle body, new injector pigtails from previous owner, coolant temp sensor seems to work correctly

This all was AFTER I got a remanufactured MAF. Once I put the new mass air flow sensor in the car wouldn’t start at all unless I unplugged it, but I assume the maf is good so THEN I did all that other stuff.

Now the car runs much much better but I’m having the same bogging issue

Is it possible that I got a faulty remanufactured part? Ordered it From autozone
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Old 06-07-2019, 04:20 AM   #22695
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Is the red top s13 sr20 oem gasket kit (10101-50F25) the same as the blacktop s13 gasket kit (10101-50F27)?
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Old 06-07-2019, 05:05 PM   #22696
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Here's my setup. I think I already know the issue, the slots are mismatched side to side on the camber plates. One side is using the outer 2 slots while the other is using the inner 2. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CONFIRM?



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Old 06-07-2019, 07:43 PM   #22697
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anyone with a rep jdm ebay wing wanna take a measurement for me?

trying to figure out if it would fit on my trunk(not going on an s14)

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Old 06-10-2019, 08:06 AM   #22698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
Here's my setup. I think I already know the issue, the slots are mismatched side to side on the camber plates. One side is using the outer 2 slots while the other is using the inner 2. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE CONFIRM?



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Did you make sure none of the arms are bent/bushings are blown/wheels sit the same distance out of the wheel well when the wheel is straight and turned lock to lock?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:44 AM   #22699
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https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts...b3J5IFBhZ2U%3D

^ Ive read that these are a must to replace since most of the time on our old 240s theyre worn out already. How many of these do I need to buy for replacement?
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:46 AM   #22700
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whoops double post.
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Old 06-10-2019, 12:25 PM   #22701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenkiKid View Post
https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts...b3J5IFBhZ2U%3D

^ Ive read that these are a must to replace since most of the time on our old 240s theyre worn out already. How many of these do I need to buy for replacement?
Just one.

While you're at it, get two of these as well
https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...200_p_5805.php
And one of these too
https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...f10_p_4481.php
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Old 06-10-2019, 04:33 PM   #22702
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Did you make sure none of the arms are bent/bushings are blown/wheels sit the same distance out of the wheel well when the wheel is straight and turned lock to lock?
I have not inspected anything on vehicle yet, but everything looked straight prior to installation. Recently had an alignment done and now Im wondering this. Over the winter, I did replace the stock tension rods with adjustable ones and tried to match OEM arm length as closely as possible; I dont think the arms were touched during alignment though. New ball joints on LCA properly seated in, with new wheel hub and new outer tierods. Everything torqued to spec. And, you see my coilover tophats. So pretty much everything was touched.

Perhaps one of the coils is bent, or the tension rod is too extended, or sway bar bent?
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:26 AM   #22703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agamemnon View Post
Just one.

While you're at it, get two of these as well
https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...200_p_5805.php
And one of these too
https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...f10_p_4481.php
I suggest getting twice as much as you need. These parents won't be available in the near future and it's better to have too much than too little - especially if you're already paying shipping for these very inexpensive parts. You never know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
I have not inspected anything on vehicle yet, but everything looked straight prior to installation. Recently had an alignment done and now Im wondering this. Over the winter, I did replace the stock tension rods with adjustable ones and tried to match OEM arm length as closely as possible; I dont think the arms were touched during alignment though. New ball joints on LCA properly seated in, with new wheel hub and new outer tierods. Everything torqued to spec. And, you see my coilover tophats. So pretty much everything was touched.

Perhaps one of the coils is bent, or the tension rod is too extended, or sway bar bent?
At this point, anything can be bent. You'll really have to pull everything and put it all side by side. Re-center the rack, check tie rods, everything. If it isn't doing any harm right now, carry on but I have OCD and like to make sure my car isn't completely fucked so I'd take all those unnecessary steps.
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Old 06-15-2019, 07:08 PM   #22704
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Can anyone be so kind as to take a picture and/or provide a picture of how their connectors for the IACV and knock sensors are routed/mounted to the intake manifold on their s13 sr20det

I acquired this thing in many, many pieces, am in the process of reassembly and haven't found a picture to solve my problem yet...

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:15 AM   #22705
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Anyone know what this piece is? It sat next to the windshield wiper motor on my 95 S14.


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Old 06-16-2019, 08:17 AM   #22706
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Anyone know what this piece is? It sat next to the windshield wiper motor on my 95 S14.



[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 06-16-2019, 10:02 AM   #22707
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Anyone know what this piece is? It sat next to the windshield wiper motor on my 95 S14.



[IMG][/IMG]
Cruise control actuator.
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:44 PM   #22708
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Cruise control actuator.
Awesome thank you for the quick reply! Now I know I can toss this lol
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:47 PM   #22709
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Awesome thank you for the quick reply! Now I know I can toss this lol
No way! You better get that cruise control going!
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:52 PM   #22710
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Alrighty, I need some help! My car has had this issue for about 4 months and I just can't figure it out. So my ka24e when i get up to 3500 rpm it starts bogging and will sit at that till i floor it and then it goes past it and will be fine. So if you have any knowledge on this please let me know. Thank you!

My maf is working.
Have you figured this out yet, my SOHC has new maf as well, idles at 2k rpm, some misfire, I have to ease into the gas in order to make it into high rpms. Also the car stalls as soon as I try to move it forward in gear
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