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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 05-20-2019, 01:08 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
Make your own degree wheel.. print out a circle on the computer and glue it down to some wooden or plastic circle piece you cut to fit then bolt it to the engine. then use a coat hanger as a pointer. All you need now is dial indicator like $10~ from harbor freight?
I'm going to be totally honest and say I've never had to do this before. But, I am putting it together and will hopefully be able to figure it out. If anyone is out in South Bend,IN that can help, beers are in it for ya
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Old 08-08-2019, 11:38 PM   #32
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Did you ever figure out the issue? I just ordered these cams earlier this week and will be getting them in and retuned in a couple of weeks.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:12 AM   #33
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Anybody else run these and have any positive feedback? I ordered a set to run with a 2871 setup, but there hasn’t been much info available on them.
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Old 04-02-2020, 02:05 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by stevenrapids View Post
Anybody else run these and have any positive feedback? I ordered a set to run with a 2871 setup, but there hasn?t been much info available on them.
back in the day 05~ i tuned a bunch of sr with 256 264 272. They all do the same basic thing (it shouldn't be a surprise or response from someone about "what" the cam does)

thing is, the way they make cams today is different. Some companies do it wayyyyy different, materials and methods. So your question isn't one of how the cam "works" but rather how it was made, what materials were used, who cut it, how did that part go. Is it safe to use in your engine. Do the lobes match up with the cam card. Quality control.

so you can't easily ask a blanket question like that. Sure maybe from 05-08 the quality control was amazing but in 2012-2015 the manufacturing for the same exact grind was done somewhere else and its shit. or something like that

These days I would only buy a cam brand new directly from JWT or Tomei or HKS or Greddy. And use the matching valve spring and recommended valve hardware.
For some engines it doesn't matter but when it comes to sr20 I don't like to mix and match valve spring/cam manufacturers unless I am absolutely sure I need the extra pressure.
And then cross ur fingers.
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:41 PM   #35
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my car reads super low with haltech iq3 and but i have tomei 260 and i was pulling 14 cant find a leak at all
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:07 PM   #36
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I just installed these on my s14 SR. Yes not much info about people running them.

I got the Tomei USA 258 set for s14/s15 SR.

Some info for me, S15 turbo. Still stock ECU, Stock 370cc injectors and have the basic bolt ons, exhaust manifold, elbow, downpipe, exhaust etc. 10psi

I'm still driving it easy to break in.

So far a little loss of torque in low end but it kicks in pretty good on mid range. I haven't redlined yet, going to drive it a bit more before I do but I can tell the power comes on strong. Idle is pretty stable, a little lumpy and rough but that is to be expected on a step 1 cam.

Only question I have that I haven't found answers to... On cold start, my SR hesitates a bit in the revs. Once it warms up it seems fine. I know I'm still on stock ecu. Anyone else experience this on cold start?

Don?t have any vacuum numbers but nothing seemed out of the ordinary other than a more lumpy/rough idle.
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Old 04-13-2020, 04:55 PM   #37
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Just a follow up

Seems like my vacuum at idle for the tomei 258s match what some already posted.

Idle is approx -0.51ish bar on my defi advance boost gauge.

Cam isn?t off a tooth. It?s timed correctly at 15deg.
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:18 AM   #38
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Got mine installed and pull around 15 inHG at idle once warm. haven't gotten it all back together after paint to do a test drive, but they seem to be in-line with what others have stated so far.
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