S13 SR20DET Dyno Sheet

[Mikester]

Hey y'all,

Hope everyone has been doing great, figured I would try my best to post something useful for anyone still interested in building up their SR. Below is a snapshot & dyno sheet for my S13 with SR Black Top. Makes 385 rwhp on a Mustang dyno, so right where I wanted it to be (around 400hp). Not a track car, it is built for fair-weather cruises/garage queen.

Specs:

Air Delivery:

- Blitz SusPower inlet filter
- Z32 MAFS
- RPI Suction Pipe
- Tomei ARMS MX8270
- Heavy Throttle Hotpipe
- FMIC
- Greddy Coldpipe
- Freddy Intake

Fuel Delivery:

- Walbro 255lph pump
- 6AN braided lines
- SARD FPR
- JEGS fuel filter
- Circuit Sports fuel rail w/JEGS inline pressure gauge
- SARD 850cc injectors
- Power FC

Engine:

- Tomei oil pan
- Manley rods
- Wiseco 86.5mm pistons (9.0:1)
- Nissan bearings
- ARP main & head studs
- Tomei 1.5mm HG
- Tomei solid lifters
- Tomei springs
- Tomei solid type 260 Procams (12mm lift)
- Tomei oil block
- GREX oil filter relocation w/HKS oil cooler
- Splitfire ignition system


Exhaust:

- Tomei turbo outlet
- Circuit Sports 3" downpipe (w/flex piece)
- Tomei Expreme Ti cat delete
- Blitz Nur Spec RX catback

Drivetrain:

- Z32 TT transmission
- OS Giken TS2BD clutch
- Nismo mount
- Driveshaft Shop Aluminum driveshaft
- 180SX VLSD (4:10 final drive)





The car just needs paint/body work and it will be done for the most part. Will eventually post pics in my ancient build thread when complete.

Thanks for looking. Hope this helps someone with their build.

Mike

[jr_ss]

Mike! Welcome back sir! Things look good on that old build. I hope all is well.

[jedi03]

awesome! how much boost is that with?

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by jedi03

awesome! how much boost is that with?

Thanks man- Tune was at 1.3bar (19psi)

It feels really good but two things I have noticed:

1. Even though it still makes good power up top and sounds awesome at 6-7K rpm, you can really feel when the torque starts to drop off.

2. In hindsight, I almost wish I had gone with the MX7960 or some other 'smaller' turbine. The power is cool on backroads, road course etc, but for street driving, it's only fun for 1st and part of 2nd gear before speed limits get broken, and the turbo lag is evident when trying to build up from lower rpm.

Don't get me wrong, still more than enough for a middle aged asshole like me to go kill himself in and lots of fun, but would be remised to not point those things out. But man, when the power comes, it definitely lets you know!

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Mike! Welcome back sir! Things look good on that old build. I hope all is well.

Thanks Glenn, all good here- still stop by from time to time. Tried a couple days last week- thought this place died completely, glad it hasn't. Hope you're well too!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Mikester

Thanks Glenn, all good here- still stop by from time to time. Tried a couple days last week- thought this place died completely, glad it hasn't. Hope you're well too!

Mike, things are well here. New build or should I say upgrades are happening slowly. Enjoy the car and the beautiful weather to come.

[e30gangsta]

I have the same turbo setup but I turned it up a little past 19psi and detonated the hell out of my motor lol. Rebuilding the bottom end now at mazwork and sleeving the block.

Nice #'s! Do you happen to have a picture of the timing map from your power fc tune? Who tuned it? I am unsure if powerfc has the ability to control an electronic boost controller, but if it does, you can use a mac valve to help the turbo come online sooner. ( That's what I did, but I am on Megasquirt )

As far as your cam choice, why did you pick a 260 cam? I would think a higher lift/duration cam would suit this turbo better. I run jwt s4hl's on my setup, just curious if stepping down to a less aggressive cam will help with spool.

I also had the noticeable lag, but it only happens if I am in the incorrect gear. A simple downshift usually fixes it

Also that engine bay is super clean, nice build!

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

Nice #'s! Do you happen to have a picture of the timing map from your power fc tune? Who tuned it? I am unsure if powerfc has the ability to control an electronic boost controller, but if it does, you can use a mac valve to help the turbo come online sooner. ( That's what I did, but I am on Megasquirt )

As far as your cam choice, why did you pick a 260 cam? I would think a higher lift/duration cam would suit this turbo better. I run jwt s4hl's on my setup, just curious if stepping down to a less aggressive cam will help with spool.

I also had the noticeable lag, but it only happens if I am in the incorrect gear. A simple downshift usually fixes it

Also that engine bay is super clean, nice build!

Thanks- I do not have a pic of the ignition map, but I could probably take one of that screen on the commander(?) I usually don't mess with these things, just leave it to the pros and watch my AFRs in different phases of driving (yeah I'm lazy these days lol).

Boost controller is GReddy Profec B Spec-II. It works well. There are prolly better choices these days, but it is easy to use and I am a creature of habit lol. Had the same (like this exact same) EBC since 2006 and it has never let me down. To answer your question, I seem to remember APEXi having a boost controller that can be run with or by the PFC, but have never researched or needed it.

I am not familiar with mac valves or megasquirt. What are they? :lol:

Most recent engine rebuild was done by Jerry Yang Racing & the tune was at DBW Motorsports in Atlanta.

I chose the 260's because they are between 256 and 264, as a "compromise" if you will. At 260/12mm, it seemed like they would be suited to a range of turbocharger choices and they came in solid type profile to go along with the solid lifters. Not 'too doggy' at low rpm and not 'too crazy' in the midrange or top. This is more of a street/backroad car, with the occasional road trip, so daily-driveability was also a consideration in the build.

I think the lag is just inherent to the M8270's. This dyno sheet looks very similar to the samples posted by Tomei on their ads. It definitely sucks when not quite in the right gear lol!

[e30gangsta]

Haha thanks you for your reply. A mac valve is basically a valve that aftermarket ecus use to control boost. Basically and electronic boost controller controlled via the ecu. And mega squirt is a brand of aftermarket ecu.

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

Haha thanks you for your reply. A mac valve is basically a valve that aftermarket ecus use to control boost. Basically and electronic boost controller controlled via the ecu. And mega squirt is a brand of aftermarket ecu.

Gotcha thanks man. Good luck with your rebuild!

[Kingtal0n]

On 93 octane at max boost (18-20psi) sr20det stock head w/ cam upgrade, 9:1 compression
STREET CARS / DAILY DRIVERS
Always Keep IAT less than 105*F (GOOD Intercooler)
Check for boost leaks!

From 350-450rwhp timing (top max power row) Is like this:

3000rpm = 7*
4000rpm = 8*
5000rpm = 9*
6000rpm = 10*
7000rpm = 12* if torque is falling (typical) otherwise use 11*

Never use more than 13* and keep the low rpm stuff below 10* after 15psi+
*note these value can also be used for 2jz-gte engines w/ cam upgrade and similar boost

Spooling into the turbo from 0-5psi should be nearly N/A timing values, around 18-22* Similarly distributed
Simply interpolate top to bottom i.e. 18* to 7* for 3000rpm column, 19* to 8* for 4000rpm column, etc...
tip: Try not to use the same timing value side by side at wide open throttle for any engine

Cruise timing is around 32 to 34* sometimes 36* never more than 37+ for cruise sr20det
Typical 240sx w/ sr20det should easily 30mpg highway at 65-70MPH
I Was able to get 33mpg using 9:1 compression w/ lightweight drivetrain parts (flywheel & wheels light = superior cruise economy)
To dial in cruise timing, Fill gas tank 100% full at specific pump, reset ODO, then drive the car using cruise control steady speed like 65MPH for 100-200 miles using a specific timing value (say, 32*)
Drive back to SAME Pump, fill tank EXACTLY as before, calculate mileage (miles drove / gallons used according to pump)

Now, repeat the test using exact same roads, same exact speed, and return to same pump but this time use different timing value (this time, 35*)
Your mileage will increase 1 or 2 or 3MPG everytime you add a couple degrees of timing for the cruise. Stop adding timing when mileage stop increasing.
*Keep aware as the vehicle weight increases, ideal cruise timing also changes. For example if your car today 3000lbs you find 36* gives best MPG. Tomorrow if you add 300lbs to the vehicle, new timing ideal value maybe 34* and 36 would be too much timing, may cause long-term durability issues, excess wear and tear due to high pressure spikes can occur when combustion temperature increases such as after a hard run when the engine returns to cruise. Therefore, always use the least-best cruise timing and anticipate additional weight/load in the future.

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

On 93 octane at max boost (18-20psi) sr20det stock head w/ cam upgrade, 9:1 compression
STREET CARS / DAILY DRIVERS
Always Keep IAT less than 105*F (GOOD Intercooler)
Check for boost leaks!

From 350-450rwhp timing (top max power row) Is like this:

3000rpm = 7*
4000rpm = 8*
5000rpm = 9*
6000rpm = 10*
7000rpm = 12* if torque is falling (typical) otherwise use 11*

Never use more than 13* and keep the low rpm stuff below 10* after 15psi+
*note these value can also be used for 2jz-gte engines w/ cam upgrade and similar boost

Spooling into the turbo from 0-5psi should be nearly N/A timing values, around 18-22* Similarly distributed
Simply interpolate top to bottom i.e. 18* to 7* for 3000rpm column, 19* to 8* for 4000rpm column, etc...
tip: Try not to use the same timing value side by side at wide open throttle for any engine

Cruise timing is around 32 to 34* sometimes 36* never more than 37+ for cruise sr20det
Typical 240sx w/ sr20det should easily 30mpg highway at 65-70MPH
I Was able to get 33mpg using 9:1 compression w/ lightweight drivetrain parts (flywheel & wheels light = superior cruise economy)
To dial in cruise timing, Fill gas tank 100% full at specific pump, reset ODO, then drive the car using cruise control steady speed like 65MPH for 100-200 miles using a specific timing value (say, 32*)
Drive back to SAME Pump, fill tank EXACTLY as before, calculate mileage (miles drove / gallons used according to pump)

Now, repeat the test using exact same roads, same exact speed, and return to same pump but this time use different timing value (this time, 35*)
Your mileage will increase 1 or 2 or 3MPG everytime you add a couple degrees of timing for the cruise. Stop adding timing when mileage stop increasing.
*Keep aware as the vehicle weight increases, ideal cruise timing also changes. For example if your car today 3000lbs you find 36* gives best MPG. Tomorrow if you add 300lbs to the vehicle, new timing ideal value maybe 34* and 36 would be too much timing, may cause long-term durability issues, excess wear and tear due to high pressure spikes can occur when combustion temperature increases such as after a hard run when the engine returns to cruise. Therefore, always use the least-best cruise timing and anticipate additional weight/load in the future.

Awesome info man, thanks! Assume from your posts over the years that in your head is a pretty scary place to be lol- so much info stuck in there ��

Having a 350-450hp SR, never really gave fuel economy much thought, mostly just pay attention to boost/oil pressure, AFR & coolant temp. Not the avid racer I was back in the day. These days, just go for the fair weather backroading & cruises, occasionally show some of these Mustang & Camaro turds that a 240 with a “Retired” license plate probably has more than a fart can going for it lol