1UZFE into S-Chassis

[Drifting Kalamari]

Originally Posted by turtle m3th

Just need to get a few more things from the junkyard and autozone, then she'll be ready to fire up! I won't be using any covers on my motor because I'm running an electric ps pump and don't need any of it. I made a tensioner for the alt, and that's pretty much all I needed. I also machined off the additional brackets that I didn't need on the water pump to give it a cleaner look. I'm trying to make the mounts for my fc sometime next week, then start working on wiring right after that.

Damn, that looks nice! I finally got mine into my '89 240sx! Still tons to do.
I have my build thread on 240atlanta:

240Atlanta.com


I'm having clearance issues with my sway bar, and when building headers, the fuel lines run really close, so they need to be bent and shielded or moved. The drivers side is tight and has the issues of building around the steering column.

[turtle m3th]

^ Something that could make your swap relatively easier is routing your exhaust in a cross over configuration. I'm doing the same for my setup for easy of installation, and heat prevention for my fuel lines (which is an area you're dealing with.)





I don't have any pictures of how the header was modified to clear, but I'll try to get some pretty soon, but once you have point A and B it's fairly straight forward.
The same exact thing can be done with a front sump setup seeing as we've already done it on a buddy of mines s13. I'd look into it if I were you!

[MiamiZ33]

I'm more interested in the header mod necessary to clear the steering shaft... after looking at the Sikky headers for LS guys which requires you have to take the steering shaft apart and it goes between the header runners (which seems like a pain in the ass, but it works), I can't believe that nobody makes a nice header for us 1UZ guys.

I purchased a turnkey swap, which in hindsight, was a mistake because the fabwork done by the previous owner was mediocre at best. I am a bit pickier when it comes to my fab, so now I am weighing my options of how much do I want to redo BEFORE I get it running.. but I'd be interested in this Concept-8 steering shaft mod.

Thanks for the crossover idea, the amount of ground clearance you have is awesome! Are you running a 3" collector?

[turtle m3th]

That isn't actually my car, just something I found on the old interwebs, hahaha! The concept-8 steering shaft mod is relatively simple, and any half assed fabricator should be able to pull it off imho. You're simple moving the velocity joint downstream slighty to change the angle at which the shaft connects to the rack. The stock headers were very easy to make fit though. I'll post pics once I have them.

[nismox4xlife]

Originally Posted by turtle m3th

Good luck dealing with that clown Brett Collins. He always has some bullshit excuse why he hasn't sent you your shit months after the projected date. It's always "i'm sorry, i'm really busy." Maybe don't try to run a fucking company then! Anyways, the 97 up security system is tide into the ecu. You need to have the key, ignition, and some other crap IIRC. There's a reason it isn't done often (yet).

Originally Posted by turtle m3th

I'd go with a flywheel from sitemap toyotav8 toyota lexus manual transmission adaptors toyotav8 dude is super cool and doesn't bullshit you like Brett Collins. You can run whatever sr or ka clutch disk you want, and whatever 3sgte pressure plate you want with their flywheel. Brett just wants to sell you as much crap as possible, but not give you info on how to replace it in the future. He acts like it's custom, but it's not... oh yeah, and mounts are the same between the 13 and 14 chassis. I can sell you legit mounts that aren't out of square if you're interested.

^ THIS.

Hey guys. If I may just post my 2 cents in this thread, I don't want to start any kind of e-battle, but since its on topic I'd like to share my experiences and offer any kind of 1UZ knowledge that I can.

My name is Rod, and I recently completed an S14 5spd swapped LS400 (UCF10). I used the Collins Adapter Technologies kit.

VWVortex.com - Project: AARP Casino Cruiser

Said car.






Let me start out by saying first and foremost that Brett is a really nice guy. There were 2 occurances where we chatted on the phone for some time just bullshitting and he is a cool nice guy, but he is as about a good business man as Obama is a president.

I ordered my swap kit in December '12 when I started this project. I ended up getting a new job and lost motivation and free time to work on the car. I left that job this past May and furiously began working on the car. It wasn't around until mid May that I got around to the stage where I was ready to mate the trans to motor and put it in the car. I encountered a few problems at this point;

1. The adapter plate hit the flanges of the exhaust manifolds -> Cats.
   
2. The adapter plate hit the starter bolts.
   
3. The throw out bearing did not fit.

Now I called him and after maybe 3 or 4 attempts I got through to him via text. He sent me the "swap notes".

Being that I don't have the luxury of using other manifolds like you guys with S chassis can, I had to cut my adapter plate. Not his fault, it wasn't intended to be used on any specific chassis, though the S13 was the car it was made to fit into. Maybe he just isn't using 1uz manifolds. Excusable.

His solution? Cut and reweld flanges.

Next, the starter bolts hit the adapter plate. Okay, can't really say that is his fault either, but his solution is retarded. I replaced my bolts with thinner ones and ran a nut on the inside of the head valley this way should my starter ever go, I could just pull the intake manifold off and replace them....

His solution? Shave the bolts down. <- = pull the trans, and adapter plate, AND THEN the manifold to replace the starter....this kid is an engineering major and my stupid ass figured out a better system? lol.

Finally, the crooked TOB. It was legit crooked. The way it's made is one release sleeve is cut in half and welded to the bottom of a complete TOB. When I contacted Brett afterwards he was extremely courteous about if there was any kind of issue with a manufactured part that it was no question it would be replaced. Okay, awesome. Glad to see that even though I bought this kit 6 months ago he has no problem covering that...though he never offered to pay the cost of shipping the defective product to him..whatever. Brett told me he makes them on a jig so I probably didn't install it right or something to that effect. Well, it scratched my TOB guide tube on 2 different KA transmissions.

I have all the text's screen capped in case I ever needed them. Long story short, I shipped out the tob around June 8th, I received a new one either the 24th or 25th. This guy straight up ignored my text messages. You'd call and it would just ring. Like m3th said, always had some bullshit excuse. My favorite "sorry man, been studying I have 2 major exam's tomorrow". I didn't ask, nor do I care. You run a business, and I exchanged my currency for your goods. EITHER RUN YOUR BUSINESS, OR DON'T HAVE ONE AT ALL. So thanks to him dragging his feat I missed my first drift event because Driveshaft Shop went on vacation for a week 4 days later on Friday and this motor is somewhat of a cunt to install with the trans through the engine bay.

So fast forward to 2 weeks ago. I put the car on the ground and go for a drive, between all the noise I couldn't really hear it, but once the exhaust was finished I could tell the TOB was making a very very slight noise. I didn't think anything of it. Today it sounds like chewbacca and it feels like its going to explode any second. Best part is my Mini is in about 1,000 pieces because It needed a major service as well as a clutch and was practically undriveable. My guess is this genius welded the release sleeves together with the bearing still on the one. Great, can't wait to pull the trans .

Moving on, I know some of you guys are a bit upset that the early 1UZ's don't make that much power. I can tell you that it makes enough to make my 3,400lb yacht feel pretty quick. I haven't had the chance to run any of my friends to get an idea of how quick it is, or to dyno it but I can tell you this. At WOT the car runs at the highest point 11.4-6 AFR's. Most of the time its in the high 10's, low 11's. Bare in mind that I have a 2.5" y pipe -> 3" single and a short ram intake. Stock the car has 2 cats, 5 mufflers, and all 1 3/4" piping and a massive intake system. That being said, I'm shocked it hasn't leaned out more. Now, this is all I have been able to find as a tuning solution with decent results on the UZ's.



Now this dyno is for a VVTi 1UZ. Yes, it will make more power, however since the valve timing was not touched the gains shouldn't be too far off what the non-VVTi engines can make. That was tuned with an SAFC and has nothing more than a catback. I will hopefully be getting one and having my buddy tune it soon. I will try and do a before/after and post results. Yes its archaic technology, yes its not the best option, and yes its not the most powerful engine in the world, but rest assured that if my car slides effortlessly on 205's, you guys with almost 1,000lbs less won't have an issue lol.

I'm sure there are people here with more UZ knowledge, but if I can help in anyway please feel free to ask. I've spent months and months researching these stupid motors and aside from the fact that you can't really make big power N/A without LOOOOOOTS of money, I've grown to really love them. Tempted to pay the g-note for an M112 custom manifold/water neck . Love them roots blowers.

[turtle m3th]

^ Damn, that blows about the TOB situation. I kind of expected the quality of it would be sketchy at best, which is why I opted to do it myself. The thing that pissed me off is after I paid him a healthy chunk of cash for the parts I did buy off of him, he wouldn't give me the final dimension that the TOB should end up as so I could do it myself. His reply was, "if you buy if from me it'll be perfect. It'll just work." I could understand if it was an original design, or I wasn't actually a customer, but come on!!! It's just two sleeves welded together. No secret there...

[turtle m3th]

Also, here is my simple sway bar solution for you guys! dug this up from my vh45 days.

here's a stock sway bar that was bent using heat and some muscle!

Notice how it lays flat on the ground compared to an unmodified sway bar? This is what offers the additional clearance needed.


stock for comparison


I don't have any install pics, but my buddy has been rocking it for some time without fail. Give it a shot folks! I prefer to rock the stock front sway, so this was a great and cost effective solution for me. This also clears lsx swaps and possibly I6 swaps.

[turtle m3th]

It's been quiet in this thread, so I guess I'll make some noise. Pretty small update, but I've got the drivetrain sorted out. I'm rocking an sr20 act 6 puck sprung HD disk and a 3sgte act HD pressure plate. Should do the trick nicely!

The flywheel is from toyotav8.com - Modified 3SGTE Flywheel
There is no need to use the stock flex plate spacer with this flywheel!

flywheel bolts are from jegs - ARP 203-2802 ARP Flywheel/Flexplate Bolts

pressure plate bolts are also from jegs - ARP 150-2202 ARP Pressure Plate Bolts

[Bmxer300zx]

Originally Posted by nismox4xlife

^ THIS.

Hey guys. If I may just post my 2 cents in this thread, I don't want to start any kind of e-battle, but since its on topic I'd like to share my experiences and offer any kind of 1UZ knowledge that I can.

My name is Rod, and I recently completed an S14 5spd swapped LS400 (UCF10). I used the Collins Adapter Technologies kit.

VWVortex.com - Project: AARP Casino Cruiser

Said car.






Let me start out by saying first and foremost that Brett is a really nice guy. There were 2 occurances where we chatted on the phone for some time just bullshitting and he is a cool nice guy, but he is as about a good business man as Obama is a president.

I ordered my swap kit in December '12 when I started this project. I ended up getting a new job and lost motivation and free time to work on the car. I left that job this past May and furiously began working on the car. It wasn't around until mid May that I got around to the stage where I was ready to mate the trans to motor and put it in the car. I encountered a few problems at this point;

1. The adapter plate hit the flanges of the exhaust manifolds -> Cats.
   
2. The adapter plate hit the starter bolts.
   
3. The throw out bearing did not fit.

Now I called him and after maybe 3 or 4 attempts I got through to him via text. He sent me the "swap notes".

Being that I don't have the luxury of using other manifolds like you guys with S chassis can, I had to cut my adapter plate. Not his fault, it wasn't intended to be used on any specific chassis, though the S13 was the car it was made to fit into. Maybe he just isn't using 1uz manifolds. Excusable.

His solution? Cut and reweld flanges.

Next, the starter bolts hit the adapter plate. Okay, can't really say that is his fault either, but his solution is retarded. I replaced my bolts with thinner ones and ran a nut on the inside of the head valley this way should my starter ever go, I could just pull the intake manifold off and replace them....

His solution? Shave the bolts down. <- = pull the trans, and adapter plate, AND THEN the manifold to replace the starter....this kid is an engineering major and my stupid ass figured out a better system? lol.

Finally, the crooked TOB. It was legit crooked. The way it's made is one release sleeve is cut in half and welded to the bottom of a complete TOB. When I contacted Brett afterwards he was extremely courteous about if there was any kind of issue with a manufactured part that it was no question it would be replaced. Okay, awesome. Glad to see that even though I bought this kit 6 months ago he has no problem covering that...though he never offered to pay the cost of shipping the defective product to him..whatever. Brett told me he makes them on a jig so I probably didn't install it right or something to that effect. Well, it scratched my TOB guide tube on 2 different KA transmissions.

I have all the text's screen capped in case I ever needed them. Long story short, I shipped out the tob around June 8th, I received a new one either the 24th or 25th. This guy straight up ignored my text messages. You'd call and it would just ring. Like m3th said, always had some bullshit excuse. My favorite "sorry man, been studying I have 2 major exam's tomorrow". I didn't ask, nor do I care. You run a business, and I exchanged my currency for your goods. EITHER RUN YOUR BUSINESS, OR DON'T HAVE ONE AT ALL. So thanks to him dragging his feat I missed my first drift event because Driveshaft Shop went on vacation for a week 4 days later on Friday and this motor is somewhat of a cunt to install with the trans through the engine bay.

So fast forward to 2 weeks ago. I put the car on the ground and go for a drive, between all the noise I couldn't really hear it, but once the exhaust was finished I could tell the TOB was making a very very slight noise. I didn't think anything of it. Today it sounds like chewbacca and it feels like its going to explode any second. Best part is my Mini is in about 1,000 pieces because It needed a major service as well as a clutch and was practically undriveable. My guess is this genius welded the release sleeves together with the bearing still on the one. Great, can't wait to pull the trans .

Moving on, I know some of you guys are a bit upset that the early 1UZ's don't make that much power. I can tell you that it makes enough to make my 3,400lb yacht feel pretty quick. I haven't had the chance to run any of my friends to get an idea of how quick it is, or to dyno it but I can tell you this. At WOT the car runs at the highest point 11.4-6 AFR's. Most of the time its in the high 10's, low 11's. Bare in mind that I have a 2.5" y pipe -> 3" single and a short ram intake. Stock the car has 2 cats, 5 mufflers, and all 1 3/4" piping and a massive intake system. That being said, I'm shocked it hasn't leaned out more. Now, this is all I have been able to find as a tuning solution with decent results on the UZ's.



Now this dyno is for a VVTi 1UZ. Yes, it will make more power, however since the valve timing was not touched the gains shouldn't be too far off what the non-VVTi engines can make. That was tuned with an SAFC and has nothing more than a catback. I will hopefully be getting one and having my buddy tune it soon. I will try and do a before/after and post results. Yes its archaic technology, yes its not the best option, and yes its not the most powerful engine in the world, but rest assured that if my car slides effortlessly on 205's, you guys with almost 1,000lbs less won't have an issue lol.

I'm sure there are people here with more UZ knowledge, but if I can help in anyway please feel free to ask. I've spent months and months researching these stupid motors and aside from the fact that you can't really make big power N/A without LOOOOOOTS of money, I've grown to really love them. Tempted to pay the g-note for an M112 custom manifold/water neck . Love them roots blowers.

Not trying to be a dick but I've talked to you on 240one.
Did you ever do anything to compensate the space of the adapter? Space the flywheel or mill down the bellhousing? You're spacing the transmission away from everything and expecting it to be fine. Plenty of threads with guys ignoring this and having problems. Even a 1uzfe s13 on here with a z33 trans who snapped his input shaft. Does the modified tob and pilot adapter suppose to compensate the space the adapter is taking? There's different input on this on many threads.

Also I'll agree someone who has a buisness should have 100% commitment in the buisness and customers but considering the amount of adapters this company puts out and has options for and if going to school maybe a bit of a stuggle And hard to maintain all. I'll agree a crooked weld on the TOB is b.s and should've never been shipped to you.

Also that bellhousing is not designed around the ls400 or stock exhaust system I know your not saying its a major flaw and just maybe pointing it out? It was merely designed as a cheap way to get the trans adapted to a 1uz all of wich auto in U.S.
Regardless shaving the starter bolts was a very common talked about problem on many threads.

[nismox4xlife]

Originally Posted by Bmxer300zx

Not trying to be a dick but I've talked to you on 240one.
Did you ever do anything to compensate the space of the adapter? Space the flywheel or mill down the bellhousing? You're spacing the transmission away from everything and expecting it to be fine. Plenty of threads with guys ignoring this and having problems. Even a 1uzfe s13 on here with a z33 trans who snapped his input shaft. Does the modified tob and pilot adapter suppose to compensate the space the adapter is taking? There's different input on this on many threads.

Also I'll agree someone who has a buisness should have 100% commitment in the buisness and customers but considering the amount of adapters this company puts out and has options for and if going to school maybe a bit of a stuggle And hard to maintain all. I'll agree a crooked weld on the TOB is b.s and should've never been shipped to you.

Also that bellhousing is not designed around the ls400 or stock exhaust system I know your not saying its a major flaw and just maybe pointing it out? It was merely designed as a cheap way to get the trans adapted to a 1uz all of wich auto in U.S.
Regardless shaving the starter bolts was a very common talked about problem on many threads.

No, I never checked anything. This is why I paid a grand for a bolt in swap kit that someone else did all the R&D and fab work on. The flywheel uses the flex plate spacer, and that's it. Other than that it all gets assembled like a typical clutch setup. I shouldn't have to check, modify, or change anything. The "custom" tob is what compensates for spacing out the transmission, and the input shaft is definitely making it all the way in because it makes it into the pilot bearing adapter included in the kit.

But I digress. I don't care what kind of business it is, if you don't 110% commit to your customer base regardless of whatever quantity of anything you sell you're running a shitty business. Nothing can excuse not sending a replacement item in 15 days after being clearly ignored or dodged.

Yes, I was just pointing out that it didn't fit. I find it completely excusable because its being used in a method that wasn't intended or thought of when it was designed.

And the shaving of the starter bolts wasn't a problem, it just shocked me that someone who claims to be an engineering student couldn't find a better solution as I'm sure everyone who install this kit at some point realized if the starter ever dies they would have to pull the trans, and the adapter plate to remove the starter bolts because the starter is threaded for them in that direction, its not nuts and bolts. I was merely also pointing out what I felt was a pretty lame solution.

But to get back on topic, Turtle the uz is looking good. Did you make those spark plug covers?!

[turtle m3th]

Yeah, I made them to clean up the look a bit since I'm not running any covers on this motor. Just had them sheered at the metal supply and drilled some holes. Super simple!

[turtle m3th]

Waking up the crickets once again... Got my motor mounts done today! My buddy welded them up while I did the fit and finish.







More updates to come soon. And hopefully not just from me, hahaha! seriously though, i'm not the only one doing this swap on this forum.

[turtle m3th]

Got a couple more pics

[Fries]

Shit fits nice as hell Turtle. I can't wait to see what you do for headerwork.

[s13hvv]

Anyone have a fsm for the 93 uz

[turtle m3th]

Rattle canned the engine bay and made the rad support. bash-bar and headers sometime this week.

[zenkiset]

nicely done turtle!

[turtle m3th]

Thanks zenkiset! Make any progress on your swap yet? I'm hoping to have mine fired up in 3 weeks if all goes well.

[zenkiset]

im actually in the process of moving so I had to put it on hold til the end of next month. dad got a new job in south Carolina and they offered to let me live with them until I finished my swap so I didn't have to put my money into other bills and prolong it even more. so HOPEFULLY I will be updating this thread a lot here soon. ill add a picture tonight of my parts I have piled up in my bedroom lol.

edit: I also saw your car on a buddies instagram page lastnight. that engine looks sexy in that bay :thumbsup:

[Jifter]

I got mine wired and running the other day in my 89 coupe. Here is a vid of the first test drive from yesterday with open headers. The P\S line popped off as I was exiting my driveway lol. Throttle cable was also a bit tight.





Heres my build thread btw
1UZ S13 Coupe Build - Nissan 240SX Forums

[zenkiset]

just took an hour to read through your complete build. I must say, you are right about others not really posting up the problems you ran into. im putting mine into an s14, and haven't seen some of these problems in the s14 build threads. who knows though. and it has been a month now waiting for my pilot and release bearing adaptors to come in. I contact brett abour every four days after he replies and hes very non-chalaunt about it. getting very annoying.

[turtle m3th]

Glad to see you've got everything up and running Jitler!!! Do you happen to know what type of clearance the throwout bearing is supposed to have with the pressure plate? I can't get an answer out of anyone! Is they actually supposed to have slight contact, or a slight gap?

[Jifter]

I dont think there should be a gap between the pressure plate and bearing. That way you dont have play in the clutch pedal. I can tell you that to extend your bearing slider, you need to cut your 2nd slider just bellow the two tabs. Then weld it on top of your other un-cut slider.

[Fries]

KA24DE transmission bros. What size 1pc driveshaft did you get? Gonna need to order a custom one and I only want to have to do it once.

[Jifter]

I got a Shaftmasters alum shaft for the s13. Not sure of the length

[newkid99]

Guys quick question, I'm looking to put a 1uz-fe into my s13 hatch. The seller says he was putting it into a mk3 supra, and he has the mounts. Would these mounts be a dirrect fit? Or will the motor be too far back to use my ka24 trans and drive shaft? Any info is appreciated I just didn't want to open a new thread to ask. Btw subbing to this thread, there is some awesome fab work here!

[Fries]

Originally Posted by Jifter

I got a Shaftmasters alum shaft for the s13. Not sure of the length

Yeah but you also moved the motor to stock location.

[Jifter]

Originally Posted by Fries

Yeah but you also moved the motor to stock location.

Thats right. I redrilled the mounting holes on bretts mounts to move the engine forward 1" so that I could mount the trans in the original location and use an OEM driveshaft length

[newkid99]

Originally Posted by Jifter

Thats right. I redrilled the mounting holes on bretts mounts to move the engine forward 1" so that I could mount the trans in the original location and use an OEM driveshaft length

You say oem drive shaft length, but if I did this swap and moved engine forward for the right length, would it be necessary to have an aftermarket drive shaft? or could I use the oem one?

[zenkiset]

Got my last parts from brett todayyyyy!

Also, does anyone have a write up on using power steering in this swap for an s14 or know where I can find one? There's a couple guys on here with this swap in their s14's but only state the parts they used which doesn't really help me that much. really need pics.