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Old 09-19-2005, 01:20 AM   #1
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RB FAQ

By popular demand, here's an FAQ for Nissan's RB-series motor.
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Old 09-19-2005, 04:29 PM   #2
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You can use a z32 yoke for the driveshaft, it mates the RB tranny

custom downpipe has to be made to clear the steering column

You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.

E-fans are a must since you loose the extra space for your clutch fan

I'll think of more later..
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:25 PM   #3
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i think you gotta bash up part of the firewall to make starter fit i believe, not sure if that applies to s14 also
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:35 PM   #4
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Z32 N/A clutch will fit in an RB25 tranny. it is a direct fit. the flywheel however, will not fit.
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
You can use a z32 yoke for the driveshaft, it mates the RB tranny

custom downpipe has to be made to clear the steering column

You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.

E-fans are a must since you loose the extra space for your clutch fan

I'll think of more later..
correct on the Yoke. The downpipe is not the issue in clearing the steering column its actually the elbow . Which most installers notch.
We addressed this issue by making a custom 3 inch elbow/downpipe , to this date no one else I have seen has done this, we also make custom urethane engine mounts, transmission brackets and swaybar brackets and driveshaft. It is a complete kit that is coming out shortly. We feel it will blow the competitions right out of the water.
shameless promotion here for Syko Performance.
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indolent
i think you gotta bash up part of the firewall to make starter fit i believe, not sure if that applies to s14 also
this is so not true. Trust me I own a RB powered S13. See my comments above about kits.
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:05 PM   #7
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you need to upgrade fuel pump
PS lines and AC lines have to be re-fabricated

and google turned this up
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:10 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=NemeGuero]you need to upgrade fuel pump
PS lines and AC lines have to be re-fabricated

and google turned this up
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/[/QUOTE
We are in the process of designing custom AC lines. We also have actually designed a custom Power steering line setup as well. Not sure when that stuff will be ready for marketplace though.
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:48 PM   #9
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well shoot.. I guess you're the guy to get in touch with for an RB swap.. hahah
we should just erase all these posts and put your contact info in a single thread.

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Old 09-19-2005, 10:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift freaq
this is so not true. Trust me I own a RB powered S13. See my comments above about kits.
Oo, friend has s13 with rb25 with mckinney motor mounts, we had to bang it in to fit for some reason, don't know why but thats what we did unless we did it wrong or something
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indolent
Oo, friend has s13 with rb25 with mckinney motor mounts, we had to bang it in to fit for some reason, don't know why but thats what we did unless we did it wrong or something

from what i understand, i think it depends on which mount kit you use. im not 100% though.
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:11 AM   #12
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mckinney mounts DON'T require banging out the firewall..so no
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:26 AM   #13
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"When you guys are done kissing I got some ass kicking for you" PM rb street Jesus, I already see false info.
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Old 09-20-2005, 02:28 AM   #14
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ok i'm done kissing and waiting
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSnail
"When you guys are done kissing I got some ass kicking for you" PM rb street Jesus, I already see false info.
well, my info is not false for a RB25 install. You did a 26 there are some differences in the installs. Since you feel your info is so ass kicking and superior share it. Instead of playing P.M. me in private, and playing it like your so superior.Almost sounds like a exercise in your ego. I am not saying it is but it comes off that way. If not I apologize in advance.


oh ya and for everyone. These installs have a number of ways to be done, depending on if you utilize a R33 GTST crossmember with the stock RB engine brackets, (which is what we do) or not.
We choose this particulare method because it allowed us with our Custom Urethane mounts to move the engine as far back and as low as possible in the S13 chassis.
Yes we did custom power steering lines,it works kick ass too!! I am in the process of finishing up my air, using a RB25 R33 air con compressor and fittings. All we had to do is have the lines extended to my stock lines coming from the firewall.
The only reason I say what I say is because compared to whats on the market our setup is cleaner and looks much more factory.
Ours will be a product not someones back yard job.
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Old 09-20-2005, 09:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift freaq
well, my info is not false for a RB25 install. You did a 26 there are some differences in the installs. Since you feel your info is so ass kicking and superior share it. Instead of playing P.M. me in private, and playing it like your so superior.Almost sounds like a exercise in your ego. I am not saying it is but it comes off that way. If not I apologize in advance.
Whoa there buddy. Anyways, Its not like the only rb swap I did was a 26. Ive done 7 rb20's and 2 rb25's. As for the 25's one we used the crossmember and modified the tranny mount. the second one we made our own mounts. While you two girls were fighting, I was stating
Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.
was wrong. As far as the pm. Its not me. Though I could answer most of your rb questions, the Streetjesus is a newbee on this forum, that knows the answer to every question known to man. He roams around but never posts,(30ish posts). His name is Wazimba. Me and him started Snailworks a while ago, then I went to school and he went to work for TigerRacing. He is a walking dictionary.
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Old 09-20-2005, 10:08 PM   #17
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nobody was fighting,
and you still need custom mounts, whether you modify your original mounts or buy new ones, you still can NOT utilize the stock mounts in their stock condition

and re-drilling stock mounts doesn't seem like the 'best' of ideas

you can do it the right way, or put a bandaid on it and hope it stays
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Old 09-20-2005, 10:17 PM   #18
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it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.

If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.

Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga.,Syko Performance in Torrance Calif, all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.
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Old 09-20-2005, 10:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSnail
Whoa there buddy. Anyways, Its not like the only rb swap I did was a 26. Ive done 7 rb20's and 2 rb25's. As for the 25's one we used the crossmember and modified the tranny mount. the second one we made our own mounts. While you two girls were fighting, I was stating was wrong. As far as the pm. Its not me. Though I could answer most of your rb questions, the Streetjesus is a newbee on this forum, that knows the answer to every question known to man. He roams around but never posts,(30ish posts). His name is Wazimba. Me and him started Snailworks a while ago, then I went to school and he went to work for TigerRacing. He is a walking dictionary.
so if you have done 7 RB20's you know its a completely different install. It seems like you and street jesus have a ego problem. You have to resort to name calling to prove your point? Thats signs of a ego , again if you don't I apologize in advance but once again someone under your sig or you have gone off in such a way that looks like ego.
If street Jesus is some kind of god who knows so much why does not post under his own screen name ? sounds like ego once again.
Again like I stated before , I am speaking from having a working product that I have even shown here on the forums and posted about. I do not need any RB questions answered. My associate was installing RB's in S14's over 6 years ago, thats before Mckinney or anyone else. In fact his ITB SR20de is in this months Super Street. Our stuff is clean and right so much that I can say it and market it. Thats a pretty strong statement.
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Old 09-20-2005, 10:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.

If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.

Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga., and by the time you read this, probably Super Tuner Motorsports in Ridgecrest, Calif., all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.
actually again SyKO engine mounts address this issue . My engine sits low enough to use the stock manifold and not touch your hood. though I did put the Greddy intake on because I wanted too.
Syko transmission brackets allow you to use the factory S13/S14 crossmember. SyKO swaybar brackets allow the swaybar not to hit the oil pan either. All of this stuff is high performance stuff designed to handle high HP.
YOu can add SyKO company to that list above .Syko Performance in Torrance Calif.


P.S. I no longer work with Syko though they are a great company. I am on to my own things.
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Last edited by drift freaq; 04-22-2008 at 01:24 AM..
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:22 PM   #21
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Now you're starting to talk crap. From pissing me off, I conclude your talking shit, is your marketing tool. Flipping the "ego" thing around on you.
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:56 PM   #22
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sorry drift freaq, that was a direct quote from the SCC article I looked up.. I'll edit it for ya
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Old 09-21-2005, 01:21 PM   #23
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Just easy kinda things heres some parts info RE RB25det

Clutch kit = Z32 N/A
Throwout bearing = will work for z31 turbo, some others work too.
Coil Packs = Z32
Nismo Thermostat = Same as z32/ xterra, all 6 cyl
Nismo FPR (Highly recommended on all cars with walbros, fuel pressure is too high causes super richness) = 22670-RR580US (same as SR20det model)

Maf = Same as J30 maf on series 1!?, any z32 filter will adapt to the maf, but the plug is the main concern.

other info that is good

--------------------------
Make sure you change your waterpump, and timing belt before you swap, who knows how many miles your engine has, its better now then when it shits out on you and you have to do it from inside.

S14 can use tach and speedo, as well as coolant temp gauge (must swap in KA coolant temp sensor into RB temp sensor location.) It reads a little bit faster on warm up, but is accurate thereafter. To use the tach correctly, recalibrate it using the adjustment screw on the back of the gauge cluster, you need something else to read your RPMs to calibrate it correctly. Remember rb is 6 cyl vs 4 cyl, so tach will read 1.5 too much. I.e. 2000 rpms reads as 3000 rpms on your tach.

Lower harness:
Use your KA lower harness. You will have to cut off the starter plug and rewire it inplace of the Ka start plug (spade plug). You willneed to cut off the KA oil pressure sender, replace with the rb one. Starter loops that you secure on with 10/12 mm bolts, you may have to ream the inside or replace the loop that is secured with the bolts. Everything else pretty much works. Also extend the KA tranny harnesses , some plug up, those that don't make sure you splice them with the correct plug from the KA harness.
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Old 09-21-2005, 01:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
mckinney mounts DON'T require banging out the firewall..so no
I had to bang mine for a half hour =T
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Old 09-21-2005, 03:07 PM   #25
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The FPR model numbers are different from the SR.
My RB26 FPR:
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Old 09-21-2005, 03:24 PM   #26
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let me recheck my box i might've made an error.
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Old 09-21-2005, 11:26 PM   #27
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rb25 valves are the same as vg30dett valves.
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Old 09-30-2005, 06:55 PM   #28
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Do you guys know where I can get help with wiring? Thanks!

drift freaq: I'm gonna need my A/C & P/S so help a brotha out! Let me know what you can do for me as far as parts! Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2005, 11:51 PM   #29
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you guys are talking about using Walbro pumps, but isn't the Z32TT fuel pump good enough to be considered an upgrade for SupraTT guys? If you use the Z32TT fuel pump you can utilize the stock FRP without a problem, and you don't have to futz with the nismo unit. Just offering an idea (that i'm well aware could be flawed since this just came to me), that could offset some of the extra (possibly unneccesary) cost associated with the walbro pump/nismo FPR setup.
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Old 10-09-2005, 07:54 PM   #30
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I thought some basic rb info was needed in this thread so I hit up google and here it is.
click here for the site

The RB Engine
"The RB engine is a 2.0 L to 3.0 L straight-6 piston engine from Nissan. It is an aluminum and cast iron DOHC 4-valve per cylinder design. All RB engines have belt driven cams. All turbo models have an intercooled turbo and recirculating factory blow off valve (with the exception of automatic Laurels and Cefiros) to relive turbo boost when the throttle is closed. All are twin cam except the single cam 2 L RB20E and 3 L RB30E engine.

From 1998 the RB series (except the RB20E and RB30E, as they were discontinued) was released with a "NEO" head. This enabled the engine to be classed as a LEV (low emission vehicle) engine. With the NEO head, torque and power were further improved although the RB26DETT produced still only 205.94 kW on paper, according to Nissan specs. In reality it produces more than this but it is under estimated because all main Japanese car manufacturers have gentlemen's agreement not to produce cars with engines exceeding 206 kW."

RB20
"There were three 2.0 L RB20 engines produced:

RB20E - single-cam
RB20DE - twin-cam
RB20DET - twin-cam turbo

R32 and R33 Skylines, Laurels and Cefiros used the RB20E/DE/DET, R34 skylines used the RB20DE engine with a NEO head. The non turbo models were also fitted to various Holdens in Australia and New Zealand."

RB25
"The 2.5 L RB25 engine was produced in two forms:

RB25DE - twin-cam
RB25DET - twin-cam turbo

RB25DE and DET engines produced from August 1993 also featured variable cam timing (VCT) for the intake cam. This gave the new RB25DE more power and torque at lower rpm than the previous model.

In May 1998 a NEO head was fitted. This was also a low emission vehicle engine (LEV). The non VCT and non turbo was fitted to the R32 Skyline, the VCT turbo and non turbo was fitted to R33 Skylines and Stages. R34 Skylines also use these engines but they are fitted with a NEO head."

RB26
"The only 2.6 L RB26 was the RB26DETT. This was also the only twin turbo RB."

RB26DETT
"The first 2.6 L RB26DETT featured twin turbochargers and produced 280 hp (205.94 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 260 ft.lbf (353 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. The last series of the RB26DETT (with NEO head) produced 280 hp (205.94 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 289 ft.lbf (392 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. It is renowned for its strength and many examples have been modified to produce over 1000 hp (776 kW)."

It was used in the following cars:

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32
Nissan Skyline GT-R R33
Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 with NEO head.
Tommy Kaira ZZII
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