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Old 06-16-2008, 03:19 AM   #31
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ohkay im doing the swap s14 engine s13. and i did everything.

im using the stock s13 wiring harness.
changed the bottom of the intake manifold
changed the distributor
maf sensor.

but i curious wtf do i with vaccum line behind the head.
on the s13 it has the bpt valve and the other valve on a bracket behind the head and the s14 doesnt have anything behind it!?!?!

and right now im almost done and the engine wont start!

iM STUCK!!! HELP!!! ASAP! PM ME! or reply on here.
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:26 PM   #32
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all you need really is the fpr vacuum line and the brake vacuum line.. everything else you can delete, ,if you dont have emissions where you live..


ive done this swap but the engine isnt running well, missfiring and low power. cant find it.. i think ill have to change the harness and itll be fine.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:41 PM   #33
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:49 PM   #34
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Want to put an S14 motor into your S13? Swap your S13 intake manifold and dizzy. Also, I think the alternator needs to be swapped. Use your S13 harnesses and you're gold.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:05 PM   #35
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I finished my S14 KA swap -> S13 using all S14 components last week, and sold that S13 this past weekend. Runs like a champ.

The lower harness was entirely S14, and the only thing that required splicing was the E202 plug (tranny sensors/etc).

The upper harness (also S14, with S14 ECU):
* ignition switch's START (on the orange wire)
* constant +12V (to ECU and to S14 ECU relay, bypassing S13's ECU relay under the hood because it was already on the harness)
* switched +12V (also from ignition switch - drew about 8A, so if you have anything else drawing IGN power through that 30A fusible link, keep an eye on it)
* fuel pump ground (ran a wire from the S14 harness's M63 plug's black/purp to the ground on the fuel pump relays coil in the engine bay)
* coolant temp sensor - replaced with S13, wired from M63 to the dash plug (I believe both wires were blue/black)
* ground - keep an eye on this! There's the normal grounds on the intake mani around the injectors, and these need to be secure, or the ECU will not function correctly - there's no body ground near the ECU.

If you have any problems with this swap, or don't have the S13 components to use, shoot me a PM with specifics and I'll try to help. This is NOT a difficult swap.
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:54 PM   #36
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I have an S13 KA. comming with the wiring harness and ECU. I'm looking to swap into a 95 S14. What all is needed? Could I just remove the S14 ECU and harness and use the S13's. Or not?
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:03 PM   #37
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^^^ NO.

Just use your harness and ECU with the S13 motor and sensors...it's 98% plug and play.

Whatever doesn;t plug in, just swap the sensor off your S14 motor. Easy.

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Old 07-10-2010, 12:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
I finished my S14 KA swap -> S13 using all S14 components last week, and sold that S13 this past weekend. Runs like a champ.

The lower harness was entirely S14, and the only thing that required splicing was the E202 plug (tranny sensors/etc).

The upper harness (also S14, with S14 ECU):
* ignition switch's START (on the orange wire)
* constant +12V (to ECU and to S14 ECU relay, bypassing S13's ECU relay under the hood because it was already on the harness)
* switched +12V (also from ignition switch - drew about 8A, so if you have anything else drawing IGN power through that 30A fusible link, keep an eye on it)
* fuel pump ground (ran a wire from the S14 harness's M63 plug's black/purp to the ground on the fuel pump relays coil in the engine bay)
* coolant temp sensor - replaced with S13, wired from M63 to the dash plug (I believe both wires were blue/black)
* ground - keep an eye on this! There's the normal grounds on the intake mani around the injectors, and these need to be secure, or the ECU will not function correctly - there's no body ground near the ECU.

If you have any problems with this swap, or don't have the S13 components to use, shoot me a PM with specifics and I'll try to help. This is NOT a difficult swap.

Ok so here's my deal. The s14 ka was automatic so How would I use the ecu? I am using s13 5spd transmission. Also is that wiring to the dash plug your explaining?
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Old 07-10-2010, 02:45 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Ok so here's my deal. The s14 ka was automatic so How would I use the ecu? I am using s13 5spd transmission. Also is that wiring to the dash plug your explaining?
Wow that was a while ago.

The automatic ECU will run a M/T car without a problem, and S13/S14 trannies are the same (save the OBD2 crank position sensor up top on the bellhousing) so no worries there. The S14 upper engine harness doesn't have a separate dash plug and power plugs like the S13 harness, it's all combined into the M63/F3 plug (that's its designation in the FSM). Here's one depinned to just the essentials.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:43 AM   #40
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im planning to do the same thing swapping a 96 s14 ka to a s13 chassi but i was thinking just to take all the components/wires (strip the engine bay basically) and replace every thing with the s14 components ecu fuse box i mean everything and since ima put the s14 cluster on my s13 it would be better rite easier ????

any feed backs would be helpful????
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:29 PM   #41
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Sounds like a ton of work for nothing. It's not going to look or work better just because it's S14 stuff.
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:45 AM   #42
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I don't feel too bad bumping this thread since it's not that old anymore. I'm planning on doing the opposite, putting an S13 KA into my S14. But I'm just using the pan, block, head, valve cover and front covers. I'd like to keep the S14 manifolds, AC, PS pump, alternator, distributor and all wiring. Two uncertainties, will the accessories bolt on (no changes to the brackets and belt routing)? And will the S14 distributor bolt into the S13 head?
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:28 AM   #43
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Everyone who chimed in that you don't need to switch over to S13 parts is correct. I have a 95 (S14) KA24DE in an S12, and so I had to use all the S14 related components. It not only works fine, it's less complicated... the vac harness is simpler, the wiring is more condensed, and the intake manifold doesn't have those useless butterflies and twin-ports... you need to tap into the green (If I remember right) wire for the tach signal because the ignition coil is integrated into the distributor (unlike the S13 KA24DE) but otherwise everything works so long as you keep the S14 ECU and MAF.

And as far as the heater hoses go, the S12 didn't have them anywhere near where I needed them to be, so I just had to use bent hose sections to get them where I wanted them to be.

Oh, and I do have an S13 long tube header on this S14 KA24DE.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:04 PM   #44
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im going to be doing the s14 swap into my s13 so if anyone know exactly what all i have to use/not use, wat would fit an wat wouldnt, that would really help. my motor is coming out of my running s14 so any info would really help. thanks
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:01 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohhhizzzy View Post
im going to be doing the s14 swap into my s13 so if anyone know exactly what all i have to use/not use, wat would fit an wat wouldnt, that would really help. my motor is coming out of my running s14 so any info would really help. thanks
dude, scroll up. its all right infront of you.
I am actually in the middle of doing the same swap, 95 ka into my 92.
I choose to tear down the s14 ka and do a gasket kit, timing chain kit, bearings and reseal everything ect.
I will also be using the s13 lower intake and s14 upper.
I read you will loose low end power without the butterfly valves, although if you play to go turbo its not a big deal once you do.
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:13 PM   #46
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This entire thread is full of useless, incorrect shit. I can't believe it's gone two pages.

S14 KA into S13 chassis - > Use the S13 distributor, MAF, TPS, and CTS. Keep the S13 harness and ECU. Done. You can use either exhaust manifold with the matching EGR pipe and downpipe or just delete the EGR.

S14 KA into S14 chassis -> Use the S14 distributor, MAF, TPS, and CTS. Use the S14 harness and ECU. Done again.

Alternator, water pump, and power steering pump are the same from 1991-1998 (alternators differ between S13 and S14 as far as plug placement, but they all plug in and work fine). AC compressor matches the chassis as the lines differ. You could swap if you had new lines made, S13 lines do not bolt up to S14 compressors, and there's three of them anyway (1995, 1996, 1997-98), so just use what's in the car.

You can swap the entire intake manifold if you want.

Nothing new here, we've discussed this since 1995. Seriously people.
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:20 PM   #47
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i did this in my old hatch. you will need the s14 harness and ecu,distributor,s13 exaust mani,and s14 maf. that should be everything you have to do. you can use the s13 harness,but you will have to cut and splice,
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Old 09-09-2010, 08:30 PM   #48
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yeah i dropped a 96 in my 93 vert and it was just plug an play
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:45 AM   #49
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i did this in my old hatch. you will need the s14 harness and ecu,distributor,s13 exaust mani,and s14 maf. that should be everything you have to do. you can use the s13 harness,but you will have to cut and splice,
You're backwards here. The S13 harness is a direct plug in to any S13 chassis, even SOHC cars. The S14 harness must be elongated to the reach the underhood plugs on the S13 chassis.
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Old 09-10-2010, 11:56 AM   #50
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Russ, do you know a way of identifying which S14 AC compressor is which?
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:55 PM   #51
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I'm curious as to why the CTS and TPS is needed.


I'm 98% sure if you are swapping an OBD1 s14 motor into an s13, you will not have problems if you don't use the cts and tps.

I am asking because I didn't use those, and my motor runs great.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:23 PM   #52
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Russ, do you know a way of identifying which S14 AC compressor is which?
The only thing I know to say is the 1995 and 1996 compressors use bolts to secure the lines to them, the 1997-1998 use a stud threaded in with a nut to secure the line. The larger hole for the line on the 1996 is bigger than the 1995, but unless they're side by side it's hard to tell.

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I'm curious as to why the CTS and TPS is needed.


I'm 98% sure if you are swapping an OBD1 s14 motor into an s13, you will not have problems if you don't use the cts and tps.

I am asking because I didn't use those, and my motor runs great.
You are right, the 1995 TPS is the same as the S13 manual TPS, so is the CTS. 1996+ are different.
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:11 PM   #53
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:58 PM   #54
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So basically:
Upper s14 intake mani
Lower s13 mani
Swap to s13 dizzy.
And s14 lower harness?
What about the s14 cas? Its located on the bellhousing. So just block it and call it a day?
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:33 PM   #55
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S14 cam angle sensor is in the dist, same as S13. The crank "position" sensor is actually just a motion sensor, totally unnecessary unless you have a late OBD2 KA computer and are trying to pass smog as such.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:43 PM   #56
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We need a write up of this. Im actually about to buy a s14 swap to my 89 coupe with already a twin cam in it.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:02 PM   #57
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Can some one help me, i dropped a 95 ka in my 93 s13 and everything is plugged in I don't have any of that emissions things on I blocked everything off, now the engine cranks but it doesn't turn on or seem to try, it just turns over and over ongoing and nothing. So I check the fuel lines by the fuel rail and take them off and nothing comes out so I'm guessing there is no fuel getting there, I also pulled out the spark plug wire to smell it an doesn't smell like gas at all ( brand new wires and spark plugs) any ideas in how I can get the fuel to travel to the engine , I will appreciate the help thanks.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:00 PM   #58
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Can some one help me, i dropped a 95 ka in my 93 s13 and everything is plugged in I don't have any of that emissions things on I blocked everything off, now the engine cranks but it doesn't turn on or seem to try, it just turns over and over ongoing and nothing. So I check the fuel lines by the fuel rail and take them off and nothing comes out so I'm guessing there is no fuel getting there, I also pulled out the spark plug wire to smell it an doesn't smell like gas at all ( brand new wires and spark plugs) any ideas in how I can get the fuel to travel to the engine , I will appreciate the help thanks.
Do you hear the pump energize when you turn the key?
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:04 PM   #59
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Do you hear the pump energize when you turn the key?
I can't hear if from inside the car but everything should be working fine; every thing was working fine with the 93 ka. Where should I check to hear it ?
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:05 PM   #60
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Do you hear the pump energize when you turn the key?
Or how can I test it to make sure it's still works fine?
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