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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 04-19-2018, 01:53 PM   #1
StuckeyOG
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Strange Intermittent No-Start Problem (RB25 S14)

I’ve got this weird no start problem on my RB25 Kouki, it’s been like this since I picked the car up. It’s really got me stumped at the moment.

The car was originally an automatic so there is no starter relay that could be sticking. What happens is it will intermittently not start. The starter will throw the gear out and you can hear it contact the flywheel. Once I get it to start it usually will start no problem after. Occasionally it will start clicking again lol.

I’ve tested the jumper harness for the clutch interlock relay on the side of the fuse box, and there is no resistance.

It’s getting full battery voltage off the backside of the jumper harness plug down the power wire to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid. But if I put power from the fuse box down to the same terminal with the key on, it cranks over everytime? I suspected the plug connector to be bad so I connected another one and it made no difference.

- I’ve replaced the battery for a Bosch one with higher CCA then the original.

- I’ve had the starter rebuilt and even went back to the shop and had them swap out the starter solenoid for a brand new Denso one they pulled off a box on the shelf in front of me.

- I’ve changed the ignition switch on the back or the ignition lock cylinder for a new Beck Arnley unit just in case; once again it made no difference.

This issue really has me stumped, as it’s showing good voltage all the way through and if there was significant resistance to prevent the car starting it really should show a voltage drop somewhere. Not to mention that if the starter was sticking then it shouldn’t be starting just by me putting the same voltage from the fuse box down to the starter solenoid; as it would still be stuck.

If anyone has had a similar starting gremlin in a 5 speed swapped S-chassis that they sorted out, or any ideas in general- advice is extremely welcomed at this point lol. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:32 PM   #2
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My RB currently only starts by jumping the starter. S13 factory 5 Speed. I've narrowed it down to my ignition switch. Not sure if this would be your issue though.

When I first had the car with the KA in it I had to wiggle my key while starting sometimes to get it to send signal to the starter.
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by smoked240 View Post
My RB currently only starts by jumping the starter. S13 factory 5 Speed. I've narrowed it down to my ignition switch. Not sure if this would be your issue though.

When I first had the car with the KA in it I had to wiggle my key while starting sometimes to get it to send signal to the starter.


The thing is, I’ve already changed the ignition switch on the back of the lock cylinder and when I turn the key the starter solenoid wire is still getting 12.3 volts.

I’ve tried wiggling the key while turning it before and it made no difference. I’ve tried tapping the starter with the key turned to crank position it also made no difference.

It really has me stumped lol.


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Old 04-19-2018, 06:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckeyOG View Post
The thing is, I’ve already changed the ignition switch on the back of the lock cylinder and when I turn the key the starter solenoid wire is still getting 12.3 volts.

I’ve tried wiggling the key while turning it before and it made no difference. I’ve tried tapping the starter with the key turned to crank position it also made no difference.

It really has me stumped lol.


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So when you turn the key are you checking the starter signal wire directly at the plug that goes onto the starter solenoid?
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:03 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by smoked240 View Post
So when you turn the key are you checking the starter signal wire directly at the plug that goes onto the starter solenoid?


Yeah I’m checking it right at the starter signal wire and it’s getting 12.3 volts at the plug but still isn’t starting.

But when I jump battery power straight from the fuse box down to the terminal on the solenoid that signal wire goes onto, it cranks over and starts up.

The solenoid was changed in front of me at the shop where they rebuilt the starter. Plus sometimes it fires right up. It’s a real head scratcher. Lol


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Old 04-19-2018, 07:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckeyOG View Post
Yeah I’m checking it right at the starter signal wire and it’s getting 12.3 volts at the plug but still isn’t starting.

But when I jump battery power straight from the fuse box down to the terminal on the solenoid that signal wire goes onto, it cranks over and starts up.

The solenoid was changed in front of me at the shop where they rebuilt the starter. Plus sometimes it fires right up. It’s a real head scratcher. Lol


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I want to say try another starter/solenoid if you can. I've had bad ones test good and work on their "Bench" test but in the car it would not work. replaced with a different one and BAM! started right up.

Also check all grounds and clean them, idk how many issues I've fixed by just cleaning battery terminals and grounds!
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:18 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by smoked240 View Post
I want to say try another starter/solenoid if you can. I've had bad ones test good and work on their "Bench" test but in the car it would not work. replaced with a different one and BAM! started right up.



Also check all grounds and clean them, idk how many issues I've fixed by just cleaning battery terminals and grounds!


That’s why I rebuilt it, I figured I’d be better off having the internals rebuilt rather than buying another used unknown condition starter and risking it not starting again.

Checked and cleaned all the grounds even though they all seemed fine.

Not sure where to find a known good condition RB25 starter.


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Old 04-19-2018, 07:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckeyOG View Post
That’s why I rebuilt it, I figured I’d be better off having the internals rebuilt rather than buying another used unknown condition starter and risking it not starting again.

Checked and cleaned all the grounds even though they all seemed fine.

Not sure where to find a known good condition RB25 starter.


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This is a tough one! the only variable I see would be the starter. Hard to say since you purchased the car with the issue.

Sometimes the gear engages but does not turn? like you have to keep bumping the starter?
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:03 PM   #9
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If I put power between the two nuts on the starter the gear spins. But when I turn the key when the issue is presenting itself, you hear the gear throwing out and clicking against the flywheel but not spinning.

And if I put direct battery power down to the signal wire on the solenoid that already is showing 12.3 volts it will start.


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Old 04-19-2018, 08:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckeyOG View Post
If I put power between the two nuts on the starter the gear spins. But when I turn the key when the issue is presenting itself, you hear the gear throwing out and clicking against the flywheel but not spinning.

And if I put direct battery power down to the signal wire on the solenoid that already is showing 12.3 volts it will start.


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You send the direct battery power down the same starter signal wire, or do you use a different wire? sorry, just trying to clear it up!
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:15 PM   #11
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I have a cable going from the battery in the trunk to the fuse box power.

I take a piece of wire and touch the cable where it’s connected to the fuse box and the other end of the cable touches the starter signal wire.

The starter signal wire shows 12.3 volts when I turn the key already so it should make no difference.


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Old 04-19-2018, 08:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckeyOG View Post
I have a cable going from the battery in the trunk to the fuse box power.

I take a piece of wire and touch the cable where it’s connected to the fuse box and the other end of the cable touches the starter signal wire.

The starter signal wire shows 12.3 volts when I turn the key already so it should make no difference.


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Okay, what I would try is: Locate the signal starter wire off the ignition switch directly, run a new fused wire directly to the solenoid and try that. Might do nothing but it would be a cheap check. Its almost like the wire has a short or dead spot but still able to sometimes send current. almost like a pinched wire? something I did on my s13, it should work for you.
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:54 AM   #13
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Fix

Hey check this thread out. It details the problem and the fix. See post #52 for the fix.http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=620069
I have not tried it yet because I'm unsure about what size guage wire should be used.
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Old 02-10-2019, 05:04 PM   #14
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Hey check this thread out. It details the problem and the fix. See post #52 for the fix.http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=620069
I have not tried it yet because I'm unsure about what size guage wire should be used.


I was trying to avoid cutting stock wiring and running a separate relay etc. when the stock design works fine and is much tidier. The problem is fixed now.

I believe the Beck&Arnley ignition switch I purchased went faulty shortly after install. Which would explain why it seemed to fix my issue for about a month and then started doing it again, progressively getting worse.

I ended up ordering a whole new lock cylinder and ignition switch assembly and having the tumblers changed to work with my original key.

Before I pulled the faulty switch out, I put power to it directly and it still wouldn’t start. I unplugged it from the harness and jumped the corresponding terminals in the harness and the car would start.

Chased my tail for so long because of a faulty $20 ignition switch. Relieved it’s done with now though.
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