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Old 02-04-2013, 10:14 AM   #91
Mannykiller
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I chose to go with Adaptronics engine management as well!!! I'm building an Fd..but excited to make the switch from apexi power fc..to the Adaptronic!! Love your build by the way! looks awesome!
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:56 PM   #92
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I chose to go with Adaptronics engine management as well!!! I'm building an Fd..but excited to make the switch from apexi power fc..to the Adaptronic!! Love your build by the way! looks awesome!

Good to hear, altough I run Autronic I think adaptronic is a far better system than the PFC, Congrats mate, get the garbage out of your car
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:31 AM   #93
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haha.. you gotta give it to them for holding strong for the past 11 years though!!! Adaptronic is much better though!! =-) excited to see your car finished!
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:40 PM   #94
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haha.. you gotta give it to them for holding strong for the past 11 years though!!! Adaptronic is much better though!! =-) excited to see your car finished!
hehe yeah

Adaptronic is a far better and advanced ECU system, its one of the better there Is i've heard. For myself i've been into 4 Autronic installations and usage and cannot say anything else than great.

Thanks, i cannot wait myself!

UPDATE:



As many other's here are writing, things have been going very slow for me as well. Mainly because of other more important things and healt, as well as helping others with their cars.

A little thing I've been doing is having made a decision that I need a Cooling system for the gearbox. Some might say this in unnecessary but It will not do any damage either!

So I found a medium sized Oil cooler in my cooling shelf and thought it would be a good size, not too large or small.



The pump is a space S15 diff cooler pump, I guess it will be a nice pump, it isnt very heavy either and Hitachi usually is a good brand. It looks rusty but I'll spend some hours working on it and then paint and polish. Hopefully it will turn out good. Still not decided on if I am mounting the cooler behind the front wheel of the intake side, or flat with 2 small fans next to the gearbox. Also I could mount it in front but I dislike having too long oil lines, the longer the more vulnerable.




Just hooked on the new IC for my brothers Volvo 242, it's a quite large cooler.
630x350x101mm
Just hung it there to check how a even larger cooler would fit on my car. It will be very tight with anything larger but I will manage to squeeze some more in there I was also thinking of having a ice-water cooling setup of the air, to make the compressed air even colder than the intake temperature. Anyway I dont have the money for it, nor place to have a cooling machine of the water or extra tank. + it would gain some more weight to my car.


Besides I've been helping a mate making a Intake for an old Volvo 8v turbo motor.


Everything we machined/ fabricated. Only thing missing is welding it together, which buyer wanted to do himself to save some money.


Cheers!

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Old 02-11-2013, 05:30 PM   #95
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Mini update with some pics i found from sleeving my second sr20 block (rwd block) Current status Waiting for to arrive: Tein Coilovers (temporary) second set of Injectors second fuelrail Steelbraided hoses and AN fittings for the whole car

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Old 02-12-2013, 11:35 AM   #96
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wait, did you put those sleeves in yourself?
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:32 PM   #97
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dayum that thing is business.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:49 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bc. View Post
wait, did you put those sleeves in yourself?
No, unfortunately I does not have the machines myself so I had a mate doing it for me. I'll receive this block by this week most likely, then I'll make a nice picture of them both standing next to eachothers, as my extreme motor is now in pieces (read below)

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Originally Posted by rwtf View Post
dayum that thing is business.
Thanks you! I hope to make a remarkable power with a DET as everyone else uses the VE.


Update:

Since last time I have demounted the whole engine, as I have to ge tht e surface of the block re-surface( sorry does not find the proper english word for it) as the Darton dry sleeves have sunken 0,2 MM down. This happens as of temperatures up and down, as of the temperatures outside is sometimes -20 and inside the workshop a lot warmer. This is normal and the sleeves are also glued so it takes a while in some cases for this to dry properly.









It's sad that i had to do all this when the whole engine was about ready. Hopefully this is the last time its outside of the engine bay for a loooong time!

Spent a couple of hours working with the s15 diff pump I bought to use on the Tremec geabox cooling. Rust was pretty bad some places but after about an hour of abrasive blasting it turned out pretty nice and the rest I took by hand. after that I opened it and replaced all the sealings, added some castrol lubrication and checked the bearing inside. Tested and it worked perfect. Next thing I have to do is to decide a colour and paint it.




Here are some more pics of my mates old Opel Kadett '79. Yesterday I checked the cylinder head thats being put on the B230 block.

Did a little polishing in the combustion chamber just because I love things looking good, even tho no one ever going to notice! and that it will be gone in 1 minute after running the engine haha








That's one of the most extreme 8V cylinder head in my country. at low boost this car made 534 RW Newton at only 3400 RPM! and it just kept on until we had a 700rwhp

Done!

Also I am finally done with this car I bought with a hazarded engine for a killerprice and hope to earn some money on it to get more parts for my car.




Cheers!

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Old 02-18-2013, 10:57 PM   #99
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love seeing the updates dude! That volvo engine setup is neat too for the Opel!
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:14 AM   #100
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love seeing the updates dude! That volvo engine setup is neat too for the Opel!
Thanks! I am sure this will be neat in my mates 900kg Opel

But everyone knows I'll be burning tires in circles around him in 150 km/h hehe Jk


Quote:
Originally Posted by He78ather View Post
of parts used on this machine!
Thanks
Still waiting for the Tein Coilovers to arrive, f*cking mail system in Norway is horrible. Should been here a week ago.

Maybe I'll get the Transmission cooling setup done today and post some pics of it. Cheers
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:31 AM   #101
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hey i'll update this thread properly in a couple of hours, but for now i'll just put up a few teaser pics

Both of my ready and prepped Darton Sleeved blocks




latest sleeved block


Porting porting the blocks


and a little more work on the extreme head



back with more and text in a few hours!
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:49 PM   #102
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Sweet build! I'm sub'd
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:15 AM   #103
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Porting porting the blocks

Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:36 PM   #104
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Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it
did you guys match the ports on the head too?
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:23 PM   #105
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I also found a Sellholm MPG x-trac sequential gearbox from a Ford RS500 Cosworth, only used for 10 hours nice with a 400whp car so it's as good as new. Told my brother to buy it asap!


Had to congratualte him to be the first of us to get a proper seq. gearbox! But I guess (and hope) He will have to congratulate me with being the fist one to reach a 1k whp hihi

The gearbox is about 24k USD priced when new, got it for 13k so it was a real killerdeal! Guess who's automatically had to make a new gearbox brace and bearings
Actually price for Sellholm sequential gearbox is different:
"Hi Vitaly
Thank´s for your intrest in our transmisions.
Se atached info conserning the 2wd box.
A cpl box with leaver,indicatoretc is SEK 87000+Vat SEK
for the mst common boxes.
Led time 3-4 weeks.
Kind Regards Rikard Eliasson Sellholm Tuning AB"

According today's rate it's about 13400 USD
Same box from Drenth will be couple of grands more

And Xtrac are making totally different transmissions, your unit look like Sellholm/Drenth MPG one
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:12 PM   #106
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Quote:
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Sweet build! I'm sub'd
Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by boyou2 View Post
Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it
Haha, I also mainly did it to smooth them out, so the water flows better. but in the en I began porting them a little, as i noticed my cylinder head gasket could handle 1 mm diameter larger size. Did this on both of the blocks

Quote:
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did you guys match the ports on the head too?
Yes, I did. Actually it's nothing much tho, its just to smooth out the leftovers/sandy surface from when the blocks/heads were casted It is nothing important before going over 600 hp. Anyway I got 2x electrical waterpumps from meziere that delivers 76 litres per minute, each so flow won't be a problem anyway

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willy077 View Post
Actually price for Sellholm sequential gearbox is different:
"Hi Vitaly
Thank´s for your intrest in our transmisions.
Se atached info conserning the 2wd box.
A cpl box with leaver,indicatoretc is SEK 87000+Vat SEK
for the mst common boxes.
Led time 3-4 weeks.
Kind Regards Rikard Eliasson Sellholm Tuning AB"

According today's rate it's about 13400 USD
Same box from Drenth will be couple of grands more

And Xtrac are making totally different transmissions, your unit look like Sellholm/Drenth MPG one
Yes sorry about that, I didn't check over the currency, just based it off some "wild guess", my bad. I also meant that the shifting system outside the gearbox if x-trac. Not the gearbox itself

But then again I must ask you, did you come to this build thread only to ask this? :P


________________________________

Photobucket trolled me so I could not log in and into my albums to get the codes for the images so the update had to wait..
Update:


So, the block that originally was in the car has been sleeved and bored to a 90mm diameter, making it a 2,2 litre with OEM stroke. I do not want to stroke any more than this, as it would limit my revving of higher RPM's. the turbo I am having ATM will not start spooling before the 5500 rpm mark, at least not notable. Later this season, depending on the economics, I will have a fully custom built turbo made for my specific engine, by a dude in Sweden.


Also had both blocks line drilled so I can have a custom bearing for the crankshafts with 0,04 mm clearance.



As for porting the waterports in the block, this is how it turned out.


the original waterpump housing/mount on the SR20 blocks have a pretty small clearance stock. specially on the RWD sr20 blocks, the areal inside for the water to pass is even smaller than the fwd blocks, the rwd blocks have a 45% smaller areal inside, than the size of the inlet of the block. Here you can see the little "wall"

Note: if you are going to rund the OEM mechanical waterpump this can not be removed, but if you use electrical waterpump(s) like me this is a rather good thing to do.

This is how it starts to look after some work



after this picture was taken I spent 20 minutes on each block with sandpaper by hand to get it as smooth as possible, used a very tiny diamond grinder attached to my Dremel in where the sandpaper was not getting

this is the inlet of the RWD block,before and after I removed about 5mm of material



Now, the water have one less obstacle to pass in order to get into the block

About the cylinder head, I finally got the custom Supertech titan valves, and had them mounted. All I can say is that I really look forward to start that motor, I think it's going to be a very very neat DET

I got some nasty plans for the other block, but that will be a project of the future.

Tubeframed, Twincharged, methanol injected? o.O

Woops only thinking loud

Peace!




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Old 03-01-2013, 11:29 AM   #107
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lol^ Fondu pot^^
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #108
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lol^ Fondu pot^^
LMFAO! right!?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:29 AM   #109
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lol^ Fondu pot^^






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LMFAO! right!?
Haha

Anyone need a perfect in Shape s13 rear plate???


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Old 03-05-2013, 11:42 AM   #110
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Haha, I also mainly did it to smooth them out, so the water flows better. but in the end I began porting them a little, as i noticed my cylinder head gasket could handle 1 mm diameter larger size. Did this on both of the blocks
that's what I noticed, pull the HG on the block, draw what I've had to retire, and done the same on the head.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:10 AM   #111
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that's what I noticed, pull the HG on the block, draw what I've had to retire, and done the same on the head.
Yep. Same Method as I did =)

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Old 03-11-2013, 04:48 AM   #112
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Time for a sneakypeaky update or something

Running low on money lately as things are not for free and I have to save up for the materials and uniballs to make the suspension bars, arms and such out of, + I need to buy brakes and a ton of steel to make a custom exhaust

for those of you who have read the entire thread you probably remember my idea of making the switcpanel inside the midconsole. anyway, here is a link to the post

Have been working to make it done, as it's just been laying around getting scratched and ugly while I have been working with the rest of the car.


Began making an opening for the wires to run forward to the Autronic for things like launccontrol, anitlag, waterpumps, fans, gearbox oil pump, diff oilpump and such.

the electrical small saw have found a nice hiding spot, it's nowhere to find! lol








Hand filed the things, and will of course put a nice listing on the opening for the cables. Also decided to put the mainswitch of the battery connection there, also here I will put the Wilwood valve that I can set the % of brakes rear, or turn it all off if I want


It's been a hard decision if I should have a cage or not, I was worried for that the cage would kill the entire sleeper look of the car if it was too visible. It's actually been a discussion for several months, since September or so I think. All my mates have been telling me to give shit about the sleeper bullshit and get a cage in so I wont be handicapped the rest of my life if I crash the car or something lol

So the situation changed pretty hardcore, I went from not wanting to have a cage to suddenly own 2 o.O



Both the cages I took out of 2 imported S14 circuit/timeattack cars and I have to say the welding is very sick! it's soo smooth it looks like a mass production robot welder made it

one of the cages says Club Mans



after about 1 hour of hard work, hammering and pushing the cage was in, I actually only wanted to test fit it but the cage now sits so stiff into the car that I don't think I want to do all the working removing it again for painting :P
The cage is fitting extremely good! It's soo tight against the roof, the headspace in the car is still very good, you don't have to tilt your head while wearing a helmet like in some other cages.







Another thing i have been waiting for is the Russel special 30x1,5mm metric to AN16 fitting for my valvecover! I just laid it upon last night to see how the colors would match, looks ok to me!



from the catchtank I will do a vacuum source from the exhaust to maintain a constant vacuum in the head, it can give you a few more hp, like a dry sump system.




Painted the Second sleeved SR20 block of mine,





LOL !

Also had the headlights mounted along with some other pieces to the front





Mounted the block into the car including the gearbox and the new gearbox brace, now I can take the measurements of making new motor mounts in solid aluminium.




Dont ask me why, this just happend to join me after I picked up the cages and 3 spare cylinderheads



The 3 spare cylinder heads I bought to put into the bandsaw and see how all the ports are and such. Good to have if i want to do some porting in the future.
heads are S13 SR20 redtop, Sunny Highport DE head and a S14 blacktop SR head


Cheers!
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:17 AM   #113
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This is some absolutely amazing stuff!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:02 AM   #114
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This is some absolutely amazing stuff!
Thanks mate I'm glad you like it

your S13 build is one of the very few s13 builds i like, generally dislike the S13
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:24 PM   #115
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badass build, i have heard about carton sleeves dropping, i have a 2.2 also, but had mazworxs do the porting and oil grooving and installation of the sleeves in the block.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:24 PM   #116
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so did you build a block ? or is that a different straight 6 ?
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:03 PM   #117
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badass build, i have heard about carton sleeves dropping, i have a 2.2 also, but had mazworxs do the porting and oil grooving and installation of the sleeves in the block.
Thanks!
Yeah, it happens under temperature chaning. Like me, I had my block stored warm inside a shop, then i trnasported it in 30- celcius (thats damn cold!) to my garage and noticed the sleeves had sunken a bit. But nothing more than 0,1 mm.
Fixed by put it to level in a machine (sorry, idk english word for it, planning?)

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so did you build a block ? or is that a different straight 6 ?
No, thats just a 2jz block with CP pistons I happened to buy while picking up my rollcages

Thanks for giving me the idea for when I'm rich, Billet SR30 straight 6 hehe
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:58 PM   #118
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looking good
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:35 AM   #119
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Originally Posted by goodies View Post
looking good
Thank you very much!
I hope the Zilvia readers enjoy, it's a one of a kind build I think
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:42 PM   #120
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Evening

Replaced the rollcage I fitted with a pretty similar one, just that the new one is branded Cusco

Done some work to the midconsole:


The midconsole is so scratched and Ugly looking cause of the other guys on the workshop so I am thinking about getting a new one, IMO looks like shit.

I will also place the wilwood brackefluid valve there, so it is eazy to I.E turn off the rear brakes, in case of some Emergency rubberburning!


About a month ago I bought these used Japspeed rear adjustable lower arms, but they were ugly looking in paint and got a cosmetic rust on the outer Nuts.
Started by demounting them and remove the bearings/uniballs as I don't trust the japspeed team (I am replacing these with custom ones for industrial usage, takes more beating before they fell out)



Put it all into the Abrasive blasting cabinette, the blue paint really was hard to remove so I just took the outer layer and matted them. Washed the main arms really good in a highly acid bath Grinded down the welds and rewelded some with the TIG, then plasted them again and washed and heated in the oven @ 200 degrees celcius for about 15 minutes. hung them up for painting and painted them while hot so the paint really sticks and does not scratch off so easy. did 6 layers of Black matte and then took about 4 layers of Clear lacquer



with and without clear lacquer


Wanted some bling so painted the bearing tip with anodized powder aluminium and clear lacquer.

Gonna rename these from Japspeed to "ATS rear lower arms"

Pretty happy with the result. front arms will be made in Chromonoly steel, it's quite expensive but when hitting a small rock in 300 km/t I don't want shit to fell off on the steering wheels!


Also bought some barely used Yokohama Advan slicks. New ones is too expensive for me at this point if I want to drive the car this year so this have to do.



2 x 250/650R18 for the front
2 x 280/680R18 for the rear

They are still soft and came from a Japanese timeattack car that was imported here a month ago. When it rains I will be using Yokohama Advan A048
295/45/R18 for the rear
265/45/R18 for the front

as the A048 helds for a little longer than the R888.

Also picked up this Front adjustable tower brace which was brand new, came with the Japanese Timeattack S15. Hoping for this shit to help stiffen the car a bit, 300 KM/H should be fine

1-11 of August this car, along with a few of my mates cars will be driving the Nurburgring, Circuit de Spa and the Hockenheimring
I hope that I can have some fun there!


Peace, and have a nice Saturday morning/evening W/E timezone you are in


Cheers!

Ice Cube - Why We Thugs - YouTube
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