How good of a track car is it with an RB25DET

[singlecamslam]

Just drove 200 miles round trip with my rb25, drifted all day and went home.

[drifterjoey]

^^^ A year and a half i drove mine to and from the track. Even after 6hrs of hard drifting, loaded up and cruized it home. RB is Reliable!!!

[fliprayzin240sx]

I'll give RB20dets some props, I knew guys in Japan who literally were trying to blow their engines up to give them an excuse to upgrade to 25s. Shit would not die.

[JDMtyte527]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

My thing is that I've driven cars with an LS in it and honestly, wasnt too impressed with it. I just prefer boosted cars more. Then again, this was during the time I had a 500hp SR so I may be biased a bit.

Who cares if you can can get a crate motor for less than what it cost to an RB engine, you'd get a long block with nothing else. No supporting parts on it like harness, TB, alternator, starter, ECU or transmission. Take you alot more money and time trying to source all that stuff out, then still have to find swap components for it.

Yea as far as not being impressed with the ls it depends on what kind you drove. A lot of guys go with the lq because they are cheap. But the ls makes power where you need it, low end to pull you out of the corner and is smooth transition to power rather than a turbo coming to full boost. Don't get me wrong i love force inducted cars a lot. I deal with many on a day today basis at my shop. And as far as the crate motor you speak of, you are incorrect. They come fully dressed with tb, water pump, spark plugs and plug wires, headers, starter etc. and sourcing a t56 from a GM car isn't that hard or expensive. Gm ecu probably 85 dollars use hp tuners and can tune with the stock ecu. There are many companies out there that make full swap kits even for the engine harness and they are just ask expensive as RB stuff. A little research and you will see its actually cheaper to do an ls swap, more benefits, better weight distribution, easier to make power, easier to source parts, cheaper parts to maintain.

[Travis14]

Those with relaible RB25's they track, did you add baffles to the oil pan to keep from starving the motor when taking a lot of g's or is it all solved by the restrictors and drain on the back of the head? Im tracking a built RB that was built by a shop that claims to have taken care of the head oil pooling problem. The only reason I know its starving under turns is after my first event my motor was tapping loudly for ten minutes or so before calming down. I would think if the head is filling with oil it wouldnt be the lifters tapping.... To answer the original post my S14/RB25DET with 400whp is quicker than my 11' GT in every way except off the line and I believe that is just because it is harder to launch with my massive Turbo. Build the 240 to race and beat on and keep your GT to smack people down on the street until your warranty is up and you are willing to tear it up... Weird the post sounds like something I would have written 6 months ago given the fact I have an 11' GT and was looking at this 240 as my track car.haha

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[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Travis14

Those with relaible RB25's they track, did you add baffles to the oil pan to keep from starving the motor when taking a lot of g's or is it all solved by the restrictors and drain on the back of the head? Im tracking a built RB that was built by a shop that claims to have taken care of the head oil pooling problem. The only reason I know its starving under turns is after my first event my motor was tapping loudly for ten minutes or so before calming down. I would think if the head is filling with oil it wouldnt be the lifters tapping.... To answer the original post my S14/RB25DET with 400whp is quicker than my 11' GT in every way except off the line and I believe that is just because it is harder to launch with my massive Turbo. Build the 240 to race and beat on and keep your GT to smack people down on the street until your warranty is up and you are willing to tear it up... Weird the post sounds like something I would have written 6 months ago given the fact I have an 11' GT and was looking at this 240 as my track car.haha

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Umm, the whole oil pooling in the head is a fucking myth.

Read this article by MJR...
The SkyLife - Modified and Exotic Car News Community, Tutorials, Build Stories and How To guides.: RB26 Engine Assembly rebuild How to - RB26DETT Motor
I've personally met this guy and he knows his shit. Fucker's been building RBs since they came out. The whole head drain mod isnt for oil drain. He did the mod to relieve crank case pressure and blow by for over 1k hp engines. Guys in Australia saw the mod and basically figured its to keep oil from pooling in the back of the head. Read his explanation and he'll pretty much explain why its a myth.

[Travis14]

Thanks so much for that link. Shined some light on what I'm dealing with and I really appreciate it!!

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[BigKriss]

"Umm, the whole oil pooling in the head is a fucking myth."

I am glad you think so. My RB25 s1 engine would fill the cam housings completely after three or four hard runs through to 7800 rpm. Cloud of smoke behind my car as the oil hit turbo and manifold from the breathers.

My next RB25 NEO was modified at the rear of the head to drain oil to the sump via the welsh plug . Guess what ? No more oil blowing out the breathers !

I track my RB25 NEO when ever I can. At least once a month and sometimes two or three times a month. Bog stock std. engine from a Jap engine import company here.
Single GT3582R , Freddy intake and good inter cooler.
She makes 380 odd wheel hp and is dead reliable. Revs through to 7800 rpm , had an issue with cooling but sorted that all out by ducting all the coolers and supplying cool air to them all.

[Travis14]

So the only thing you did was the drain mod? No restrictors or anything like that? Im racing Saturday and have an accurate oil pressure guage I finally got installed and I will have someone watching it while I do my run to see if I'm losing any pressure. When your head was pooling with the previous motor you lost some oil pressure right?

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[smoked240]

Completed my Rb25 swap the beginning of '11 and have been DD'ing ever since with little maintenance issues. Had to replace a couple things but nothing to serious. Until just before this winter something was causing it to run odd, still couldn't figure it out, but I know it had to of been the maf or ecu. Currently running a AEM standalone with map and it runs like a dream. Tuned on e85 only pushing 10lbs, 270hp.

If your planning on doing the swap I would choose between the rb25-26. The rb20 is a good motor,finding the parts for them can be interesting. Not saying its completely easy to get parts for the 25 or 26. You end up doing a lot of waiting..I plan to drive mine this summer and once winter hits again its going under the knife and I'm going to rebuild the motor. Still debating on just a rebuild or actually build it up. But that's a year away so we'll see haha.

If I have a chance to do another s-chassis swap its going to be another rb25 or possibly 26. Would never put a v8 in. Ever

[Biggamehit]

I have had zero heating or oiling issues with my RB25 and it has seen tons of track time here in japan over four years only recently needing to change bearing due to a cracked oil return line mildly spinning one. Prior to that just did some preventive maintenance changing the timing belt and water pump. If you have not already, You should have upgraded your spring rates in the front to counter balance the weight difference. Yes the RB25 had a shorter crank oiling snout contact patch ( easily fixed with raw brokerage crank collar) but that never lead to any issue with my engine. Keep rpms decent and you will have no issues with the oil drive breaking for all the RBs with short snouts. Currently have a RB26 in my S13 and feels no different than the SR. Suspension tuning is vital along with cooling mods before upgrading power. Never needed the draining mod as the RB25 head already has a drain. The drain mod is useful to those who are really running the kind of boost. if you are over oiling that much you are probably running to much boost for that setup. Mine makes 433chp/383whp currently and doesn't over oil even when I run the normal 1 qt over for drifting.

[Brandon_Yatez]

Good read. I like the rb25 for the sound and ability for stock internals.

Which Rb25 has the best snout?

[supersayianjim]

Originally Posted by slideslidegnarslide

I'm currently building an rb25 s13. I would have went v8 if I had known better. Parts take for ever to come in and are hard to find. But I really do live a turbo car so I'm still happy. But my car would be running right now if I just bought a v8. You can get parts for those at autozone. You break a belt at the track you can just go to an auto parts store and get one. You break a belt on the rb, and your done for weeks

what country Are you in?? i get my rb parts in a week or less(due to shipping). you can get a timing belt in a week.

i got a nismo n1 oil pump next-dayed for 210.00 total.

a few dealers specialize and stock rb parts. don't drink the kool-aid!!

[zerodameaon]

Originally Posted by supersayianjim

what country Are you in?? i get my rb parts in a week or less(due to shipping). you can get a timing belt in a week.

i got a nismo n1 oil pump next-dayed for 210.00 total.

a few dealers specialize and stock rb parts. don't drink the kool-aid!!

I agree with this, parts are everywhere for these motors. If you break a fan/ps/alt belt everyone carries them as you only need to know the size and rib numbers, nothing special. I tossed a alternator belt a few years back, rolled into a autozone and had it on the car in less then 30min including clean up. As for OEM stuff it can take a week or so and you have to know part numbers but most dealerships can get it for you if they are not lazy and will take two min to type in the number you give.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by BigKriss

"Umm, the whole oil pooling in the head is a fucking myth."

I am glad you think so. My RB25 s1 engine would fill the cam housings completely after three or four hard runs through to 7800 rpm. Cloud of smoke behind my car as the oil hit turbo and manifold from the breathers.

My next RB25 NEO was modified at the rear of the head to drain oil to the sump via the welsh plug . Guess what ? No more oil blowing out the breathers !

I track my RB25 NEO when ever I can. At least once a month and sometimes two or three times a month. Bog stock std. engine from a Jap engine import company here.
Single GT3582R , Freddy intake and good inter cooler.
She makes 380 odd wheel hp and is dead reliable. Revs through to 7800 rpm , had an issue with cooling but sorted that all out by ducting all the coolers and supplying cool air to them all.

Umm...did you read the fucking article?!?! Read the article, MJR will explain what the head mod was originally intended for. I've personally met the guy in Oki and if I'd listen to anybody who's been building 1000-1200hp RB26s, it'd be him.

But I got a question, how much boost are you running? I keep thinking a damn GT3582R would make more power than 380whp. My tiny ass T2 flanged Greddy turbo kitted IHI RHC6 turbo made 420whp at 1 bar. No oil drain mod, have my breather routed back to the intake with an oil catch can in between. I have yet to see a spot of oil in my catch can.

[13esim]

Have you considered putting in a VG30DETT? They make good power, you'll find parts for it with out any issues (like at autozone etc.) If your in CA it will pass smog legally (assuming you want to DD the car) and, from what Ive seen, it will probably be easier to work on in a s13/s14 engine bay compared to a Z32.

Or you could buy a truck, wreck into a R35 and take the engine and have a VR38 powered 240sx

[supersayianjim]

^^^no vg's are heavier and a pain to work on.

[13esim]

Originally Posted by supersayianjim

^^^no vg's are heavier and a pain to work on.

In the bay of a S chassis though? They are a PITA in a Z32 for sure though.

Or he could always go with a 2JZ like Im planning. Reliable, still can get parts locally and dat sound

[CefiroA31]

Rb has its problems which can get expensive to fix, but done right its reliable, more reliable than sr20det (i've seen more sr blown mostly due to valvetrain issues), although generally not as reliable as a 1/2jz. Here's a link to a video of my friends rb25det A31 Cefiro doing an 11 lap race of a 2,3 mile circuit, no heat problem with it, and has been reliable ever since he swapped in the rb25det to replace his blown rb20det (only blown because of over nitroused to help spool a large turbo, pre nitroused the rb20det survives 4 years of abuse of 8000rpm drift runs, drag racing, etc) :
Super Touring - Mimo Cefiro - Final Battle 2012 - YouTube
Over 20 minutes of racing is quite reliable no?
Nose heavy? seems not a problem from the video, you can fine tune the car or adjust your driving style to adapt to sr20det or rb/jz powered,