Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[brndck]

Originally Posted by Mister.E

Anyone?

umkayso

I have a stack cluster.

when removing the factory cluster, I just unplugged everything, left the oem plugs hanging. did not change any wiring. Alternator works fine. Stack reads voltage but TBH i'm not sure where it picks the signal up from. (91 s13 with redtop sr20 swap)

[Mister.E]

I received the message below last night from Yury at Wiring Specialties. So the verdict is, if bypassing your stock cluster bulb setup, you can wire the W/R wire to a 7.5A fused IGN source. If you have a factory Nissan motor or swap you need to run a 470ohm inline as well. JZ swaps can have that wire go straight to the fuse without any resistors.




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[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Mister.E

I received the message below last night from Yury at Wiring Specialties. So the verdict is, if bypassing your stock cluster bulb setup, you can wire the W/R wire to a 7.5A fused IGN source. If you have a factory Nissan motor or swap you need to run a 470ohm inline as well. JZ swaps can have that wire go straight to the fuse without any resistors.




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Their customer support is really top notch. Could've shrugged and tried to sell you a product instead.

[Mister.E]

Yury is the best. He has always answered any questions I?ve had. Years ago we had issues with my friend?s swap and he had us call him on the phone. He was happy to step us through the issues we were having at the time. I swear we were on the phone for at least an hour; at like 9-10pm. His passion for good customer service might be greater than his passion for quality wiring.

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by Mister.E

So the verdict is, if bypassing your stock cluster bulb setup, you can wire the W/R wire to a 7.5A fused IGN source. If you have a factory Nissan motor or swap you need to run a 470ohm inline as well. JZ swaps can have that wire go straight to the fuse without any resistors.

Correct. The Nissan alternators will ground the charge indicator circuit before startup. Without the bulb (or resistor) in place, the 7.5A fuse would blow instantly. Nissan has a TSB explaining the operation of these 90s alternators. The charge indicator circuit can be bypassed by simply revving the engine to 2500rpm which is enough to excite the field coil. Several zilvians have reported their Nissan alternators charging without a functional charge indicator circuit or an initial rev to 2500 but this shouldn't be possible according to the technical information from Nissan. I'm guessing these atypical alternators are somehow pulling field coil current from the alt output or voltage sense circuit/wires instead.

The JZ alternators apparently don't ground the field coil circuit before startup. I have no idea how their charge indicator systems function.

[Mister.E]

That?s wild man, thanks for the info. I had a basic understanding of the wire?s function, but that really clears up everything.


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[Zachary_Huff]

I am looking to buy a running KA24DE in Northern California, closer to Sacramento the better, phone number is 916 749 0138, give me a call or text if you got one, thanks

[lewisfk]

Need help finding a portable power bank to power tool that actually works. I need it to power my Milwaukee battery cut of wheel and saw so I can cut off body panels from wretch apart. example below. Looking for something I can buy local Lowes, Home Depot etc


https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-P.../dp/B07Y2KDVGQ

[lewisfk]

Need help finding a portable power bank to power tool that actually works. I need it to power my Milwaukee battery cut of wheel and saw so I can cut off body panels from wretch apart. example below. Looking for something I can buy local Lowes, Home Depot etc


https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-P.../dp/B07Y2KDVGQ

[brndck]

Originally Posted by dbeiler

Correct. The Nissan alternators will ground the charge indicator circuit before startup. Without the bulb (or resistor) in place, the 7.5A fuse would blow instantly. Nissan has a TSB explaining the operation of these 90s alternators. The charge indicator circuit can be bypassed by simply revving the engine to 2500rpm which is enough to excite the field coil. Several zilvians have reported their Nissan alternators charging without a functional charge indicator circuit or an initial rev to 2500 but this shouldn't be possible according to the technical information from Nissan.

this method has worked well enough for me!

[gio240sx]

need to replace all my s14 weatherstripping, anyone know where i can get all of it or at least a majority of it?

[brndck]

Originally Posted by gio240sx

need to replace all my s14 weatherstripping, anyone know where i can get all of it or at least a majority of it?

https://www.nissanparts.cc/

[dorkidori_s13]

or www.z1motorsports.com can help as well

[S13ninety3]

Hey would anyone have any info or links to websites with good wiring diagrams for a 1993 sr20de?

[NukeKS14]

Originally Posted by S13ninety3

Hey would anyone have any info or links to websites with good wiring diagrams for a 1993 sr20de?

FWD or RWD?

RWD s13 and s14 sr20 wiring differences are minimal in the 180sx/silvia. I cant speak to fwd variants.

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/us...-database.html

[BiG MiKE86]

Guys I have a 2JZ S13 swap and I cant find/remember which one of these pins was for the wire coming off the alternator to charge the battery. I previously had it just stabbed in the right pin (lazy af) and it came out when i was pulling the engine so I need to wire it back in (the correct way this time) Please and thanks!

[BiG MiKE86]

Double Post - sorry

[NukeKS14]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Guys I have a 2JZ S13 swap and I cant find/remember which one of these pins was for the wire coming off the alternator to charge the battery. I previously had it just stabbed in the right pin (lazy af) and it came out when i was pulling the engine so I need to wire it back in (the correct way this time) Please and thanks!

https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=384161&page=15

Wiring diagram link on bottom of pg 15

[RobbieSS]

I bought a black top swapped 95 240sx se to work on as a project car and it didn't run when I bought it and when I tried to start it there was no fuel pump prime. So I put the battery in the back and installed a new fuel pump and it started up and even drove. Had low gas so I drove back and it shut off right before I got to my driveway so i chalked it up to no gas and went and got some and filled the car up. Wouldn't start again and no fuel pump prime again. Did I just fuck a brand new fuel pump by running it with no gas?

[juhd]

Originally Posted by RobbieSS

I bought a black top swapped 95 240sx se to work on as a project car and it didn't run when I bought it and when I tried to start it there was no fuel pump prime. So I put the battery in the back and installed a new fuel pump and it started up and even drove. Had low gas so I drove back and it shut off right before I got to my driveway so i chalked it up to no gas and went and got some and filled the car up. Wouldn't start again and no fuel pump prime again. Did I just fuck a brand new fuel pump by running it with no gas?

what fuel pump did you install? when i replaced my fuel pump on my s13 with a walbro 255, the fuel pump fuse kept getting blown. i would turn my car on, the fuse would blow after a short time, causing my car to shut off. to fix this i just put a slightly bigger fuse in and that fixed the problem. might be different for you but thought this would be a good place to start.

[RobbieSS]

I installed a Deatschwerks DW200, I checked my fuel pump fuse and replaced it and still no dice. a couple parts of my harness aren't getting power due to previous owner installing wrong could that also cause an issue?

[juhd]

Originally Posted by RobbieSS

I installed a Deatschwerks DW200, I checked my fuel pump fuse and replaced it and still no dice. a couple parts of my harness aren't getting power due to previous owner installing wrong could that also cause an issue?

that would probably be a good place to start

[juhd]

gotta replace a coolant hose under my intake manifold (ka24de). Was thinking of just removing the upper portion, but does anyone have any insight as to whether or not its easier to just take off the whole manifold as one?

[mr.nismo.]

Okay so 180sx DCC question. Yes I read all 19 pages of the nico conversion thread. The unit has only one illumination input wire. Everything works, but the screen automatically dims when it receives illumination circuit power. It's fucking dark as shit and barely readable. Had anyone messed with the board on disabling the screen dim? It seems like there's no way do to it but I figure it's worth a shot asking.

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[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by juhd

gotta replace a coolant hose under my intake manifold (ka24de). Was thinking of just removing the upper portion, but does anyone have any insight as to whether or not its easier to just take off the whole manifold as one?

I?ve done it both ways removing just the top portion was faster for me. Only thing is you have to pull studs out in order to do so, if I can remember correctly they are the outer most studs that will prevent you from separating the top half. Once you remove them just replace them with bolts and your golden.

If you don?t know how to pull studs I?d recommend just removing the entire manifold of course it?s more work, but it?ll be better than to deal with broken / stripped studs.


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[Bleakley]

Rear mount radiator question.
So I’m still having trouble finding a >/=32” x 16” core radiator to fit both 16” Taurus fans with BOTH the inlet and outlet on passenger side. I’m probably going to compromise on that one and just make something work.
Mishimoto has a rad that might work, Be Cool has a few rads that’ll work. If any of you know someone who’d make a quality custom aluminum rad, I’d like to know.

The question is: I’m not sure what sheet metal to use for this. It’s basically a 45* angled box coming up from the back / cargo area / spare tire well.
Would 18 gauge stainless be sufficient? Will also consider aluminum. Would 16 gauge aluminum be sufficient?

[juhd]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

I?ve done it both ways removing just the top portion was faster for me. Only thing is you have to pull studs out in order to do so, if I can remember correctly they are the outer most studs that will prevent you from separating the top half. Once you remove them just replace them with bolts and your golden.

If you don?t know how to pull studs I?d recommend just removing the entire manifold of course it?s more work, but it?ll be better than to deal with broken / stripped studs.


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cool thanks for the info! removing the studs shouldnt be a problem for me so i think i'll just remove the top half and replace the studs with bolts after.

[w33dnhit]

Hello, there is 1 ( or actually 2 ? ) hoses on the right side of the manifold ( right hand drive s13 with ca18det ) coming out of something and they are not connected.. where are they supposed to be inserted ?

https://imgur.com/U7iJDk1 , for some reason i cant upload a pic..

I just googled and found out it was a " POWER TRANSISTOR,IGNITION UNIT " hmmm.. then what are those hoses for ? sorry for very noob question :/

Bonus question: are your s13 brake pedal very, very hard once the engine is turned off? If not, do i have leakage in the brake booster ?

THANKS A TON for any replies !!!!!

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by w33dnhit

Hello, there is 1 ( or actually 2 ? ) hoses on the right side of the manifold ( right hand drive s13 with ca18det ) coming out of something and they are not connected.. where are they supposed to be inserted ?

https://imgur.com/U7iJDk1 , for some reason i cant upload a pic..

I just googled and found out it was a " POWER TRANSISTOR,IGNITION UNIT " hmmm.. then what are those hoses for ? sorry for very noob question :/

Bonus question: are your s13 brake pedal very, very hard once the engine is turned off? If not, do i have leakage in the brake booster ?

THANKS A TON for any replies !!!!!

That looks pretty similar to the wastegate solenoid on the S14 cars. On the S14, it raises boost to 10psi, but on S13s I think they were just for response.
One side should be going into the intake, after the MAF, the other side should be routed in with the wastegate lines.

[w33dnhit]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

That looks pretty similar to the wastegate solenoid on the S14 cars. On the S14, it raises boost to 10psi, but on S13s I think they were just for response.
One side should be going into the intake, after the MAF, the other side should be routed in with the wastegate lines.

ohhh can it be thats why my turbo isnt giving out any boost or anything ?? my turbo is like totally dead ...