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Old 02-17-2019, 12:20 PM   #1
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SR SR20DET valve cover fitting question

Was wondering what the T hose fittings proper name was and where I could buy one.
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Old 02-18-2019, 03:31 AM   #2
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Bump for the same question! I need baffles or something in mine so it quits pulling oil out!

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Old 02-18-2019, 05:14 AM   #3
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Have y’all looked in the FSM? Should say it in there. And I hope your not planning on ordering that part from Nissan. I’d bet they haven’t made them in years.
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Old 02-18-2019, 05:15 AM   #4
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I have valve covers with that part for sale. LMK
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Old 02-18-2019, 05:36 AM   #5
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Yeah, dont need the whole valve cover unless it is the one with the baffles inside.

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Old 02-18-2019, 06:22 AM   #6
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I have valve covers with that part for sale. LMK
You selling just the T or valve covers with the T?
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:32 AM   #7
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I recently looked into this as well but it didn't look like you could purchase only the T fitting- just a complete valve cover (which is discontinued.) I may be wrong but haven't been able to find a lookup code or part number for only the T fitting in any of the schematics.
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:48 AM   #8
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I recently looked into this as well but it didn't look like you could purchase only the T fitting- just a complete valve cover (which is discontinued.) I may be wrong but haven't been able to find a lookup code or part number for only the T fitting in any of the schematics.
Do you know if the T piece is capable of being removed from one valve cover and placed in another?
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:13 AM   #9
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Do you know if the T piece is capable of being removed from one valve cover and placed in another?
Yes, it can be removed. The SR20 I just recently bought did not have the T fitting. A friend had a spare valve cover as a wall decoration and I was able to remove it and install it in mine.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:56 AM   #10
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Bump for the same question! I need baffles or something in mine so it quits pulling oil out!
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Yeah, dont need the whole valve cover unless it is the one with the baffles inside.
Have you had a read through the oil catch/blowby thread? Lots of great info in there.
The fitting itself does not have any baffling. There is a little restrictor pressed into the middle of the rear hose between that fitting and the factory catch can. If you don't have the original hose then i'd bet you also don't have that restrictor in the hose.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:56 AM   #11
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No I dont have the original host but I do have the catch can

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Old 02-20-2019, 08:19 AM   #12
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There is a little restrictor pressed into the middle of the rear hose between that fitting and the factory catch can. If you don't have the original hose then i'd bet you also don't have that restrictor in the hose.
I didn't realize this- good info! I just picked up all of the factory hoses for the catch can recently. I'll have to look at it more closely.
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:31 AM   #13
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I didn't realize this- good info! I just picked up all of the factory hoses for the catch can recently. I'll have to look at it more closely.
Yeah its actually in the hose that is on the right side from the air oil separator. So you will ALSO need the black square canister coming off the block breather... So you would need both those original pieces to really work. Else stuff is just going to blow through that hose all day.
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:39 AM   #14
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So why do I see so many SR engine bays without that original can? Not being an ass...asking a legit question because I have the can still just not the hoses and I cant find them to purchase anywhere...so I'm curious as to if I TRULY need it.

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Old 02-20-2019, 12:05 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by DrSpank View Post
So why do I see so many SR engine bays without that original can? Not being an ass...asking a legit question because I have the can still just not the hoses and I cant find them to purchase anywhere...so I'm curious as to if I TRULY need it.

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People remove it to install tubular manifolds.

The oil catch/blowby thread will answer your question. If you remove the can without thinking about how the system works, then you'll have to deal with excess blowby/oil vapors/vac leak from the PCV side

edit: power steering return hoses can be used to create the lines... I bought some bulk line and cut it to fit, along with auto parts store PCV 90 degree fittings.

The disk in the posts below are a flame arrester (in case the crankcase vapors get ignited).

Last edited by Abeo; 02-20-2019 at 05:15 PM.. Reason: more info
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Old 02-20-2019, 12:19 PM   #16
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TBH i always kept the stock catch can with my s13 valvecover and i never had any noticeable blowby on that engine in the 8 years I owned it.

It's not well documented and difficult to find pics online of it, but yes about mid-way in that hose between the T and the stock can there should be a plastic disc that acts as a baffle of some sort and its pressed into the original hose. Of course by now a lot of engines might not have that original hose anymore due to wear and tear etc. I'll check if I have mine still when I get home if I can remember. I think I replaced the hose but also reinstalled the restrictor in the new hose.

EDIT: My fault I was mistaken, the OEM restrictor/baffle is located in the forward hose to the T fitting.
Shown in this FSM diagram as part: 11826H


I know RHDJapan lists the hose itself, Item 11828N Part# 11823-52F00 but i'm not certain if it comes with 11826H pre-installed or not, and they do not show it on their parts list for some reason, and I can't find a Nissan Part # for it.
Item 2: https://www.rhdjapan.com/oemrequestl...catid/588/?p=1.
Highly recommend to keep that restrictor if changing out that house for different routing like for an aftermarket catch can, etc.

I could have swore the rear hose on my sr also had that baffle in it, but I might be mistaken.
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Old 02-20-2019, 12:54 PM   #17
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My fault, I was looking under the SR20DE parts on RHDJapan. I switched over to the DET parts list, and
they DO list the part as "ORIFICE-AIR HOSE", Part# 14889-D4201 Item: 11826H.
10th item down: https://www.rhdjapan.com/oemrequestl.../subcatid/588/

Curiously there is no picture online of the part itself lol.

It's even shown in the forward hose for the S14/15 engine as well.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:39 PM   #18
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Same here in my redtop it was definitely in the back hose not in the front one between the T and the Intake. Weird.

Even its pictured and noted that it is between the T and the air oil separator

https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=235851&page=4
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:07 AM   #19
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tap/thread it and put an AN fitting on there, it can attach to a hose or more fittings and make a T to accomplish pretty much the same thing...i used a restrctor from one of the ebay catch cans i bought years ago as i didn't have the original hose either
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:31 AM   #20
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tap/thread it and put an AN fitting on there, it can attach to a hose or more fittings and make a T to accomplish pretty much the same thing...i used a restrctor from one of the ebay catch cans i bought years ago as i didn't have the original hose either
Teach me the way Jedi! Pics and parts list would be awesome! Feel free to message me direct as well!

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Old 02-22-2019, 10:01 AM   #21
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Teach me the way Jedi! Pics and parts list would be awesome! Feel free to message me direct as well!

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Don't even need to do that. There are press-in fittings for the SR, but they're all in Australia from what I've seen. I'm not 100% positive that the Nubis fitting Raw Brokerage sells is the same diameter (16.15mm).I'd say get a hold of them but they were super unhelpful when trying to figure out a replacement oil filter stud on my GReddy relocation block.

Its a 3/4" NPT to tap it and get a fitting that fits.....just don't crank on it when you tighten.
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:05 AM   #22
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Don't even need to do that. There are press-in fittings for the SR, but they're all in Australia from what I've seen. I'm not 100% positive that the Nubis fitting Raw Brokerage sells is the same diameter (16.15mm).I'd say get a hold of them but they were super unhelpful when trying to figure out a replacement oil filter stud on my GReddy relocation block.

Its a 3/4" NPT to tap it and get a fitting that fits.....just don't crank on it when you tighten.
Right right...I get that part. My confusion is how the setup should truly be...like how the lines are run and what not. Do I actually need a T? Can I just run from the block into can and vc into can? Then can to atmo?

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Old 02-22-2019, 05:15 PM   #23
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