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Old 03-12-2006, 02:46 PM   #91
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Indeed it does. but you'll have to extend a few wires and make sure you have the correct sensors. there's quite a few threads on this

Actually, search for NemeGuero's write-up on exactly this. I was there.
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Old 03-12-2006, 02:57 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EchoOfSilence
Indeed it does. but you'll have to extend a few wires and make sure you have the correct sensors. there's quite a few threads on this

Actually, search for NemeGuero's write-up on exactly this. I was there.
so the tranny can bolt on without any major modifications im not worried about the wiring or anything i just wanna know if the transmission can bolt on directly
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Old 03-12-2006, 03:42 PM   #93
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tranny bolts up fine, i am using a s13 manual tranny on my s14, the only problem i ran into was the dust cup at the rear of the tranny, i couldnt use the s13 one so i just cut it off.
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Old 03-12-2006, 05:11 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnys14
tranny bolts up fine, i am using a s13 manual tranny on my s14, the only problem i ran into was the dust cup at the rear of the tranny, i couldnt use the s13 one so i just cut it off.
thanx for the confirmation, now i gotta get some elbow grease
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Old 03-12-2006, 05:19 PM   #95
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k im gonna buy it ill show pics of my swap should take me about 2 days to get her done.....
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Old 03-27-2006, 07:57 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skatanic28

just heard of this one but don't know quality I imagine great for a cheap build with like a T25 or T28 http://www.xo2racing.com/cart/produc...roducts_id=693
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Old 03-29-2006, 05:32 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBS14
Edit: Fuel pumps are a MUST when going KAT. Read Jeff's post below this one for more info.

Hacked MAF is also a good option that requires NO ECU mods or piggyback fuel systems. All you do is stick your maf sensor element in a larger tube (size depending on injector/turbo size). a good size to use with 370's is ~2.6ID tube when running 250rwhp or below. some people have run up to a 3"ID with higher numbers.
Ok, just to clear up what your saying on this.......
you say you can run ONLY a hacked MAF and injectors on this power goal, that is without any safc or management. I would imagine the less stress at this point with less power but how is the cycle of the injectors properly controlled?

Also, the very mild power adder from the ka-t.org suggestions do not run any ic's, any thoughts on this?

Forgive me If this isnt put together as it should be
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Old 03-31-2006, 05:29 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kahlistrophic
I would imagine the less stress at this point with less power but how is the cycle of the injectors properly controlled?
With the mafs element inside a larger diameter tube the ecu is "tricked" into thinking less air is coming into the engine, thus adding less fuel when you have higher flowing injectors. Simple math really.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kahlistrophic
Also, the very mild power adder from the ka-t.org suggestions do not run any ic's, any thoughts on this?

Forgive me If this isnt put together as it should be
It's not recommended by any means. Lacking an intercooler will only premote chances of detonation so this should only be attempted on very low boost levels. Hardly anybody attempts this for a reason. Sidemounts are so easy to come by these days.

EDIT: Sure you can tweak the inner diameter of the intake, but timing control is still left alone. I wouldn't attempt high power without some kind of timing control. Fuel management is the most important part of your setup if you don't want it to go boom.
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Old 04-02-2006, 05:11 PM   #99
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is the ssautochrome manifold really not recommended? The 692 HP SR powered 240 here in blacksburg uses an ssautochrome mani and IIRC has not given him problems. I have the ss mani right now but am not using it.
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Old 04-02-2006, 05:24 PM   #100
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The main reason ss autochrome has a bad rep is because their manifolds are mass produced which resulted in lower quality control (if any) many people had fitment problems initially which they seem to be getting better with.

I think the main reason they recieve a bad rep is due to their material thickness, design, etc. Which usually ends up in the manifold cracking. Aparently they didnt calculate the thermal expansion of the stainless when designing the manifold.
If your building a all around street car. Try to get a cast iron manifold. That will last the longest.

If your building a high hp track car, Have a inconel manifold made.
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Old 05-15-2006, 08:47 PM   #101
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Alright guys i'm comming from the DSM world and have an evo 3 16g turbo just sittin in my room. I searched this thread and didn't see the answer I was looking for. If I were to use a Mitsu turbo with a custom manifold where would I run the coolant inlet, and outlet lines from? Or can you even use a water cooled turbo?
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Old 09-06-2006, 12:31 AM   #102
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Peakboost http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/hobtukit.html
Neukin http://www.neukin.com/nismanifolds.html
Bothing companies make a top mount turbo manifold for the ka motor. But there both only for dual cam motors
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Old 09-06-2006, 07:40 AM   #103
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Hey if u check out the chat forum also, Megan Racing is making a new top mount t3 and bottom mount t25 manifolds. Just another option than getting the SSAC, also JGY.cc makes a pretty nice manifold for a t25/t28 setup
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:06 AM   #104
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question about t3/t4 turbo kit

i have seen t3/t4 turbo kit from ebay

but the kit wont come with elbow pipe..

does anyone know where the heck i can get that?
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Old 09-25-2006, 03:02 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterkim0121
i have seen t3/t4 turbo kit from ebay

but the kit wont come with elbow pipe..

does anyone know where the heck i can get that?
Megan Racing has a elbow.

I also suggest picking up their flex pipe.

So far they are the only two parts megan racing makes that I would suggest.

But that top mount manifold they are working on does look decent.
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Old 10-03-2006, 03:37 PM   #106
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anyone know where and when I can get the new megan manifolds?
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Old 10-03-2006, 03:43 PM   #107
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using the search function works
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Old 10-03-2006, 06:20 PM   #108
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um you put it megan and see what comes up...tried to sift throught it, thought somone might have it bookmarked. I've been on many diffrent boards for 8+ years and there always somone like you. How bought save the 15 seconds it took you to write that and pull those anal beads out a little early.
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Old 10-03-2006, 08:41 PM   #109
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Why not try a better search? lol

I like the anal beads where they are, thanks. haha
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:54 AM   #110
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A nub is still a nub, no matter the post count.

Because obviously you still haven't learned the skill to search.


And wtf are you asking where you could buy something? This is supposed to be a faq thread.


Evan: So you have my beads? WTF?!


And since this is a faq thread, it took me 4~ hrs to make my car na to smog.

Reason #157017 why ka>sr
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:39 PM   #111
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hey im having a problem on my setup KA-t with sr20 t28 turbo. the car works fine but i can't boost it past 4psi. i bought a mbc(forged) and it just goes to 4psi anything would help thanks`
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:59 AM   #112
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Have you tried to run without the mbc? Connect the line directly and see if you can boost any higher.

Is the boost fluctuating?
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:32 PM   #113
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FWIW, I've had the SSA bottom-mount T2-flanged manifold on my car for a year and a half without even the slightest problem. The car sees some daily driving, but it is primarily a track car. It has been through some pretty severe conditions (track-days with 115+ ambient air temp), and held-up just fine.

From my experience, all tube manifolds crack eventually. I've seen cracks in a stainless manifold that was built by a guy who has built IndyCar manifolds for Burns Stainless.

This manifold has lasted long enough, and was cheap enough, that if it cracked now I would probably buy another one to replace it.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:07 PM   #114
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well, i found this on another site, so i thought i'd share, i havent tried any of these out, i take no credit in making this guide, im just reposting it for everyone on zilvia, enjoy bitches!!!

ok as requested, heres what each cam comes from...


248 - Altima Intake and S13 exhaust
232 - S14 Intake and Exhaust
240 - S13 Intake




all of the impressions here are based on a 92 s13 hatch, automatic, fully rebuilt to stock by me, except apexi panel filter

i've tried 248/248, 240/248, 248/232, 240/240, and now i've tried 248/240

its been a while since i've tried any other cam swap besides 240/240, and i've never had 248/232 on the automatic car, but i did install it on a friends automatic, and it did net similar results to my manuel car so i feel it's semi-fair to compare

248/248 - is by far my least favorite cam swap. there is a noticable loss in low end, and the motor never rev's high enough to take too much advantage of the additional top end power. I'm not saying the top end isn't there, it just really only starts pulling until right before 6000 rpm, and pulls to 7000. then you hit the rev limiter and crave for a few more revs. maybe an automatic ecu and 7200 rpm mighyt be beneficial, but i love to rev it out and i shouldnt be allowed to have 200 more rpm. if i had a more top end oriented motor 248/248 would be a great thing to have, but until i can afford it, i wont ever use it again. the sound you get from this beast is nice though

240/248 is obviously stock, its been a while since ive actually had a car with 240/248. but from what i remember the low end is decent but it does fall on its face in the top end. the 248 exhaust cam is trying to make top end power, but the 240 intake cam is trying to provide more all-around power, not just low or top end. i dont like it because of how bad it falls on its face before even 6500

232/232 - i never tried, but i got em so i could.... but come on 232/232?

240/240 - has a really snappy low end, probably the best low end ive tried, and its the only times ive ever spun the tires into second gear in the automatic, granted its gotta be wet outside... anywho, 240/240 is what i'm directly compareing to 248/240 here. 240/240 has a nice pull even in the top end, and power is quite prominent in the 4000 rpm area. i'm still a big fan of 240/240 and i'd like to try it on my manuel car, but that car already has the hands down best stock cam swap possible....

248/232 - this is hand-down where its at. If you have some s13 cams and some s14 cams you should have already done this. the power production is great everywhere. you only lose a little bit of top end over 248/248 and you gain more low end than you get with any other swap besides maybe 232/232. the KA craves this swap, it loves the low end and, chances are you only rev to 6500 anyway, so thats why this is the cam sawp for you. only don't do this if you wanna get beat by me. i'm only kidding, i'm too poor to be fast.

248/240 - you read all that crap just to get to here so here it is. coming from 240/240 in a nearly stock automatic car, i'm very disapointed. the only major difference is a slight gain in top end, maybe 2hp, but the loss of low end is noticable. i'd rather have that torque back for this daily driver than the slight bump i got in top end. granted this car is actually proven quicker now than the 240/240 car, but its less satisfying. everyone wants to be put into the back of their seat right away, not eventually.....


240/232 - this is what i just put in my automatic car. im a huge fan of the low end here, and its better than 240/240. the overlap is always off by about 2 degrees or so when you use an intake cam used as an exhaust cam or vice-versa. So for that reason, 240/232 works very nice. i can tell it doesnt have quite as much pull in the top end as 248/232 but its part-throttle driveability is great. you really only feel the low end torque when you are at part-throttle anyways, so you need ot make a decision....

240/232 - is great for a dailydriver, where low end torque is favored over top end merging power. in the automatic, after shifts the car has noticably more power than it does with 248/232. I would say if you have an automatic get the 240/232 because you spend more time in the midrange becasue of your gearing.

248/232 - is for the manuel car. ive gone to and from this cam swap in both cars at least five or six times, and i always come back. its the best there is, and its greater than stock. its ideal for forced induction, and its cheap to do. i can imagine this swap would be even more devestating with a redrilled cam gear.

248/248 - is something im going to look at again with my current setup on the manuel car. (redrilled cam gear, intake manifold, SAFC, 3in exhaust, and dc sports header) it doesnt do any good in the auto, the loss in mid and low end isnt worth it. ive seen a dyno of 248/232 vs 248/248 and the difference in top end is something like 2hp, but the difference in midrange is 6 peak hp and all kinds of torque.....
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Old 03-15-2007, 02:02 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nizmo240_22
With the mafs element inside a larger diameter tube the ecu is "tricked" into thinking less air is coming into the engine, thus adding less fuel when you have higher flowing injectors. Simple math really.

It's not recommended by any means. Lacking an intercooler will only premote chances of detonation so this should only be attempted on very low boost levels. Hardly anybody attempts this for a reason. Sidemounts are so easy to come by these days.

EDIT: Sure you can tweak the inner diameter of the intake, but timing control is still left alone. I wouldn't attempt high power without some kind of timing control. Fuel management is the most important part of your setup if you don't want it to go boom.

so u could do all the hacked maf and 370cc intercooled set up without any timing control? but not boosting right? im confused lol
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Old 07-23-2007, 12:09 PM   #116
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what are some good manifolds that have a t28 flange.the only t28 flamged ive seen are ebay manifolds and ssac which are not good from what ive heard
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:42 AM   #117
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For those of you planning to use a DE topmount T3 setup and have a Z31 T3, the OEM turbo elbow points outward towards the shock tower. To buy a simple 7-bolt flange to alleviate this, go here.
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Old 09-19-2007, 10:04 AM   #118
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hey guy im new to turboing a 240sx

i have a 1993 s13 dohc and wanting to turbo it out

i wanted to go with the cheap turbo route since im not a baller

so help me out guys

i was thinking... all this items r from fat boy garage in ebay

Bottom mount t25 turbo

turbo manifold

turbo elbow pipe

those 3 items with gasket and screws are $400

and ebay frontmount intercooler with pipings are $200

like oil lines returnlines etc $100

I heard of people just putting this on a stock injectors and stock maf and stock ecu
Whould this setup work with stock maf,ecu,injectors and no tuning ?
Can i just slap dis on and make it run ?
im prob not ganna mess with any boost lvl ill prob have like 7-8 starting right?
and if i wanted more power den i could change out all the injectors,ecu,maf right?

This is my daily driving car so im not ganna be pushing krxy hp
THX for all the help guys
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Old 09-19-2007, 12:55 PM   #119
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another good manifold for a t2 setup is the Megan racing one
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Old 09-23-2007, 02:53 PM   #120
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question

okays here my input im not saying that ka24det sucks cuz i was in the process of doing it myself but i sold it cuz all my friends that do it have it for about 2 weeks then the block blows up and not their not boosting its stock 6-7 psi of boost so im just wondering what do u need to do to have a reliable ka-t? that can put 220 hp out and can b daily driven?
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