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Old 08-04-2021, 10:30 AM   #31
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When I deleted HICAS on my S13 I went with aftermarket spherical S13 arms.

I too am tired of stupid spherical cars on the street but I'm far too invested to change anything on my drift s14 now.

I would see how different the mounting/pick-up locations on the non-hicas r32 subframes are from the HICAS one you have.

I would go with the Nismo
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Old 08-04-2021, 11:33 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Sooo...

Here is an idea.

Since the HardRace, TruHart and Megan are all the same Arms - HR being offered in both Rubber and Spherical, TruHart only in Rubber and Megan in Spherical...

I'm banking the bushing used in the Rubber versions is just the Control Arm bushing Megan sells and maybe interchangeable with a Nismo Bushing.

Might be worth a shot.
This would be the best route. Nismo should have offered a full adjustable arm in the first place since the eccentrics give you like 2 degrees of adjustment..
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:27 PM   #33
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Just to clarify, we are now arguing about opinions vs. one persons desired level of comfort?
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Old 08-04-2021, 01:06 PM   #34
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Just to clarify, we are now arguing about opinions vs. one persons desired level of comfort?
Naw, just the usual suspects up to their usual personas.
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Old 08-04-2021, 01:11 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by spooled240 View Post
This would be the best route. Nismo should have offered a full adjustable arm in the first place since the eccentrics give you like 2 degrees of adjustment..
That's what I'm trying.

You have 3-Tiers of Aftermarket Control Arms.

Bottom - eBay/Ali-Express trash that fail in the Heim, welds and metallurgical.
Mi-Tier - Megan/Circuit Sport - Cheap Heims that fail
Top-Tier - SPL, Voodoo, etc - failure from poor maintenance due to premium joints

If you're replacing the major failure point on the Megan/TruHart - EI: cheap rubber, then it should end up a solid arm for a reasonable price.


This is a street car, I don't need billet arms with full articulation for some trophy truck baja racing. Stock arms are like 18-gauge sheet metal.
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:13 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Mi-Tier - Megan/Circuit Sport - Cheap Heims that fail
still on my Circuit Sports arms from 2011... havent noticed any wear or tear in all the times ive looked at the heim joints. but then again, i dont beat the hell out of my car... and it was daily driven for 5-6 years before buying an actual daily driver.
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:19 PM   #37
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still on my Circuit Sports arms from 2011... havent noticed any wear or tear in all the times ive looked at the heim joints. but then again, i dont beat the hell out of my car... and it was daily driven for 5-6 years before buying an actual daily driver.
You also live in Vegas which is going to be a HUGE environmental impact.

If you are daily-driving you car in the rust belt those Spherical are seized in two years regardless of how much PB-blaster or Grease you slop on them.
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:35 PM   #38
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Quote:
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those Spherical are seized in two years regardless of how much PB-blaster or Grease you slop on them.


I'm sorry, it's all I could think about when I read that.
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:47 PM   #39
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I'm sorry, it's all I could think about when I read that.
Always lube the rods before you go riding.
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Old 08-04-2021, 04:29 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
You also live in Vegas which is going to be a HUGE environmental impact.

If you are daily-driving you car in the rust belt those Spherical are seized in two years regardless of how much PB-blaster or Grease you slop on them.
ah gotcha... rust isnt something i really ever consider due it being a non-issue in Vegas (and most of the west coast).
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Old 08-06-2021, 09:52 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Just about to say, looking at their catalog of arms, bushings, and parts - it's Aussie branded Megan.

Truhart is a US company, based in NC. They do have distro in AUS though.

Like Megan and a few other brands, they private label Hardrace arms for most applications.

More than give any zilvians a hookup on their parts for future ref
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:53 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
S14 Subframe?

I thought everyone was going back to the S13 setup these days.

Maybe, but we know the S14 has a wider track width which I would assume everyone SHOULD prefer. Maybe I'm just dumb.
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Old 08-06-2021, 11:18 AM   #43
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GKTech has a nice write up of S13 vs. S14 subframe differences:
https://blog.gktech.com/blog/s-chass...me-comparison/

They also now sell a "anti-squat reduction weld in kit" for the S13/R32 subframe (maybe that's why people are going back to S13 subframes?):
https://us.gktech.com/s13-240sx-r32-...on-weld-in-kit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik4Um1Sr46k
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Old 08-06-2021, 12:10 PM   #44
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GKTech has a nice write up of S13 vs. S14 subframe differences
awesome article! very well written and lots of great information.

my only question that wasnt answered is why is the S13 and S14 subframe offset 10mm toward the drivers side!? (id love to know how to correct this)
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Old 08-06-2021, 02:26 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanSayWhat View Post
GKTech has a nice write up of S13 vs. S14 subframe differences:
https://blog.gktech.com/blog/s-chass...me-comparison/

They also now sell a "anti-squat reduction weld in kit" for the S13/R32 subframe (maybe that's why people are going back to S13 subframes?):
https://us.gktech.com/s13-240sx-r32-...on-weld-in-kit
Summary:

Quote:
Originally Posted by GKTECH;
4. CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the main reasons for S14 rear subframe design updates are ride comfort related. There are more rubber bushings and the lower arm and toe arm ones are longer for more bushing compliancy toe-in action under load.

The S13 rear subframe is better suited for use in drag racing at OEM ride height and can be used in the circuit racing too albeit the ride height must be reduced significantly, but that will cause other problems to occur.

The S14 rear subframe is better suited for use in circuit racing with its low anti-squat, but it is recommended to raise it as close to the chassis as possible for some gain in anti-squat for better traction.

MSG LGH
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Old 08-06-2021, 02:27 PM   #46
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Maybe, but we know the S14 has a wider track width which I would assume everyone SHOULD prefer. Maybe I'm just dumb.
That just means less room for tucking wheels!
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Old 03-28-2022, 12:13 PM   #47
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So, Corbic. What did you end up doing and did you get your desired results?
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Old 03-28-2022, 03:20 PM   #48
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So, Corbic. What did you end up doing and did you get your desired results?

Hardrace + Nismo Bushings

No update yet on how it drives since I now need to due an engine pull and swap. Was sooo close.
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Old 03-28-2022, 11:39 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Hardrace + Nismo Bushings

No update yet on how it drives since I now need to due an engine pull and swap. Was sooo close.
Did you already install the nismo bushings into the hardrace arms?
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Old 06-08-2022, 01:40 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Hardrace + Nismo Bushings

No update yet on how it drives since I now need to due an engine pull and swap. Was sooo close.
Any updates on this? I'm looking to cut down on the roaring road noise in the cabin and I figured I'd start with the solid heim joints first.
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Old 01-19-2023, 06:21 AM   #51
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Also bumping this interested in an update.

What I struggle to see after reading this thread through like 3 times over the last two years is why is SPC not the default option? They're even in the title.

Rubber, adjustability, high clearance angled arms, better quality than Megan etc. What am I missing that makes them not the easy choice?
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Old 01-19-2023, 07:01 AM   #52
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People tend to either follow what the very high end specialized track/drift builds are doing, or buy the cheapest shit on eBay, which both end up being spherical bushings.

I love my SPC tension rods and won't use anything else if I decide to go adjustable in the back. Very well made.
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Old 01-19-2023, 08:03 AM   #53
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When I originally did my read suspension, I used rubber in the arms and sphericals at the knuckle. This was the best solution to keeping NVH down, while still allowing better articulation and control of what the tire is doing under various loads. I can tell you my transmission causes more NVH than I have ever heard from the rear of my car.
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Old 01-19-2023, 10:26 AM   #54
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Quote:
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Rubber, adjustability, high clearance angled arms, better quality than Megan etc. What am I missing that makes them not the easy choice?
not everyone needs that level of threaded adjustment.

its like saying $1000 Tein Flex coilovers are better than Nismo S-Tune spring/shock. sure you might have more adjustment, but you also have one more point of failure to check every time.

plus, not like anyone wants to wreck a car, but solid arms are not the best when it comes to saving your car if you hit a curb or get hit. stamped sheet metal factory arms (Nismo) still are superior when it comes to saving the car in an accident.
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Old 01-19-2023, 01:25 PM   #55
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When I originally did my read suspension, I used rubber in the arms and sphericals at the knuckle. This was the best solution to keeping NVH down, while still allowing better articulation and control of what the tire is doing under various loads. I can tell you my transmission causes more NVH than I have ever heard from the rear of my car.
Yeah, that's the other thing - most people end up with the opposite setup when they go cheap (stock worn out rubber in the knuckles and spherical on the arms) and that's good enough for NVH when they also have poly motor mounts etc.
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Old 01-20-2023, 06:34 AM   #56
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not everyone needs that level of threaded adjustment.

its like saying $1000 Tein Flex coilovers are better than Nismo S-Tune spring/shock. sure you might have more adjustment, but you also have one more point of failure to check every time.

plus, not like anyone wants to wreck a car, but solid arms are not the best when it comes to saving your car if you hit a curb or get hit. stamped sheet metal factory arms (Nismo) still are superior when it comes to saving the car in an accident.
Good point, but if the end result from OP was going with Hardrace arms (which are not stamped sheet metal) I didn't think that was a concern at hand, though it is a valid one. I'm wondering why this whole thread took place when OP just wanted rubber and *some* form of adjustability if the GK Hicas lockout was imperfect, and that's exactly what SPC is.

Guess all I'm trying to say is I want to buy SPC arms in place of heim in the near future and wondering why we had 2 pages of discussion, resorting to Hardrace arms with Nismo bushings rather than that basically already existing via SPC. I don't think the answer is the marginal increase in bushing quality w/ Nismo but if that's the case that's all I need to hear.
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Old 01-20-2023, 09:58 AM   #57
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Yeah, that's the other thing - most people end up with the opposite setup when they go cheap (stock worn out rubber in the knuckles and spherical on the arms) and that's good enough for NVH when they also have poly motor mounts etc.
I have Nismo mounts and my S14 trans was quite a bit quieter than my Z32 setup. I?m moving to a JK41 and I suspect that will be on par with the Z32 if not louder.

I have considered removing my spherical knuckles and installing Z32 uprights with SuperPro or Noltec bushings. This is just a thought, I haven?t determine I?ll do that or not. The main reason I haven?t pulled the trigger is the roll/drag racing I?ll be doing and the spherical bearings really help keep unwanted movement down.
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Old 01-20-2023, 08:30 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Thursday7 View Post
Guess all I'm trying to say is I want to buy SPC arms in place of heim in the near future and wondering why we had 2 pages of discussion, resorting to Hardrace arms with Nismo bushings rather than that basically already existing via SPC. I don't think the answer is the marginal increase in bushing quality w/ Nismo but if that's the case that's all I need to hear.
You won't regret buying the SPC arms. I replaced my old Battle Version arms with a full SPC setup a couple years ago and never looked back. The bushing quality probably isn't as good as Nismo but I've had them on 2 different chassis, they've survived about 20k street miles and a very heavy impact with the wall at my local track and everything still looks new. I don't really see the need for spherical arms anymore. I have a street car that occasionally drifts, not the other way around so I'll take the comfort of rubber bushings over the performance of a heim any day.
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Old 01-21-2023, 03:12 PM   #59
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Old 08-29-2023, 06:08 AM   #60
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Anyone know if there's an option for an offset/high clearance tension rod that doesn't use a heim?
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