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Old 03-28-2022, 05:05 AM   #7891
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I should probably just PM Poorman, but..

I replaced my RUCA this past weekend due to bad heims. (Contemplating replacing the toe and traction rods while i'm at it) but before I go to get an alignment, is there anything I should adjust for any sort of advantage? I know thats a very vague question. The car is a strict street car. So basic alignments have always been fine. Figured its worth asking as i've seen people say "Adjust X rod for X result".

Edit: Just saw his comment about traction rod being extended the same length as my camber arm. I should stop going on the forums at 6AM... I have his number. I'll text him.

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Old 03-28-2022, 08:28 AM   #7892
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Haha that information is courtesy of Motary, I cannot claim to have done the testing like he did. I do however, spread the gospel of traction rod length whenever and wherever I can lol.
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Old 03-28-2022, 08:42 AM   #7893
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Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
I do however, spread the gospel of traction rod length whenever and wherever I can lol.
I chuckled too hard at this. Seems like the sweet spot is extending the traction rod .25 inches. Seems like 8.25" is stock, and 8.5" is niiiiice.
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Old 03-29-2022, 08:25 AM   #7894
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Just to make sure you’re on the same page here, it’s not that the traction arms should be the same length as the RUCA, it’s that it should be extended the same amount as the RUCA has been. So if you’ve extended the RUCA 1” over factory length to get the camber setting you want, you should extend the traction arm the same amount.
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Old 06-20-2022, 03:53 PM   #7895
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Does anybody have any experience with GKtech extended ball joints? They claim 20mm of roll center correction.

https://us.gktech.com/bj291-ball-joint-1
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Old 06-21-2022, 04:52 AM   #7896
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Quote:
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Does anybody have any experience with GKtech extended ball joints? They claim 20mm of roll center correction.

https://us.gktech.com/bj291-ball-joint-1
I've been running the old school moonface roll center ball joints.

I don't know the amount of correct but it helps level out the LCA.

It's better than nothing and was the cheapest option at the times.

Also, sup Matt
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Old 09-24-2022, 05:48 PM   #7897
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Wisefab's prototype front-steer S-chassis kit, currently used by James Deane and Odi Bakchis.

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Old 09-24-2022, 08:23 PM   #7898
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Old 09-29-2022, 08:06 AM   #7899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Wisefab's prototype front-steer S-chassis kit, currently used by James Deane and Odi Bakchis.

This is very interesting. I've always wondered why nobody has done this yet. The old S30 chassis are front steer and have a similar, yet more primative, front suspension to s-chassis. There have been people use s-chassis front knuckles on S30's flipped around, right on left etc. That does require modification of the tie rod pickup angle but nothing that hasn't been done in drifting before.
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Old 09-30-2022, 03:22 PM   #7900
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Bolts aren't tight.

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Old 09-08-2023, 09:32 AM   #7901
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Wow, probably a year since I've posted in here. Latest GKtech rear knuckle version next to stock knuckle. For informations sake.

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Old 09-08-2023, 12:04 PM   #7902
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What is the benefit of the V2 vs the V1?
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Old 09-16-2023, 09:33 PM   #7903
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Quote:
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What is the benefit of the V2 vs the V1?
Pretty sure there have been lots of iterations of these, just incremental improvements in strength and weight savings. I don't think they've really changed the geometry much overall. I know the toe arm bearing sits at a different angle, but I can't tell much else about pickup points from pictures.
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Old 09-16-2023, 10:03 PM   #7904
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Oh btw, here's how the production wisefab front steer kit looks.



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Old 09-18-2023, 11:12 AM   #7905
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Does it make me a squid if I want a serious angle and camber kit so I can park the car with the steering locked super far :'D

lmao I remember the first time I saw that I was fr blown away I just loved it.

Not really drifting on a track anywhere in my schedule just some money burning a hole in me pocket
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Old 09-22-2023, 10:27 PM   #7906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Pretty sure there have been lots of iterations of these, just incremental improvements in strength and weight savings. I don't think they've really changed the geometry much overall. I know the toe arm bearing sits at a different angle, but I can't tell much else about pickup points from pictures.
Would it be possible to press in Nismo bushings for those that don't want spherical bushes but still take advantage of the drop in height and improved kinematics?
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Old 09-23-2023, 06:12 AM   #7907
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Would it be possible to press in Nismo bushings for those that don't want spherical bushes but still take advantage of the drop in height and improved kinematics?
I wish every manufacturer offered this information as an option.
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Old 09-23-2023, 12:58 PM   #7908
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Quote:
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Would it be possible to press in Nismo bushings for those that don't want spherical bushes but still take advantage of the drop in height and improved kinematics?
This absolutely defeats the purpose of the revised kinematics. Rubber bushings have too much bind and dynamic movement to reliably perform the role heim joints do. Just keep the stock knuckles if you want to run rubber bushings.

Geomaster 1/2?s have urethane bushings in them and they die in short order on cars with decent grip.

There is zero downside to heim joints in your suspension arms outside of a little increased maintenance. The performance is miles ahead of rubber. If you?re gonna cry about nvh run urethane subframe bushings.
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Old 09-25-2023, 11:38 AM   #7909
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This absolutely defeats the purpose of the revised kinematics. Rubber bushings have too much bind and dynamic movement to reliably perform the role heim joints do. Just keep the stock knuckles if you want to run rubber bushings.

Geomaster 1/2?s have urethane bushings in them and they die in short order on cars with decent grip.

There is zero downside to heim joints in your suspension arms outside of a little increased maintenance. The performance is miles ahead of rubber. If you?re gonna cry about nvh run urethane subframe bushings.
I think what we/they are after is being able to drive a significantly low street car (see: good looks while maximizing comfort where possible - not all out lap time performance) without having fucked roll center so the car is still fun/effective when spirited driving.
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Old 09-25-2023, 12:35 PM   #7910
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Hey Poorman,

I dunno how the car would feel, just trying to get your .02. But I got the T3 static front LCAs which are 43mm extended with 4* of camber right now. The rear is stock arms with 1.6* of camber.

I've read most places a wider front track width really helps over steering, but is it too much to make the rear unstable? Its a square 285 tire setup all around.
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Old 09-25-2023, 05:34 PM   #7911
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I think what we/they are after is being able to drive a significantly low street car (see: good looks while maximizing comfort where possible - not all out lap time performance) without having fucked roll center so the car is still fun/effective when spirited driving.
Bingo. Just want little drop.
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Old 09-26-2023, 04:57 AM   #7912
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Hey Poorman,

I dunno how the car would feel, just trying to get your .02. But I got the T3 static front LCAs which are 43mm extended with 4* of camber right now. The rear is stock arms with 1.6* of camber.

I've read most places a wider front track width really helps over steering, but is it too much to make the rear unstable? Its a square 285 tire setup all around.
I'm in the same position at the moment, but with a little smaller 265 and stock extended arms the previous owner did. I think you'd be hard pressed to make the car twitchy or unstable with adding or subtracting track width alone. I think the worst thing that would happen is you would have to go to a softer rear sway bar setting or a smaller rear sway bar. I have yet to get to the track in a road racing scenario with this setup. I hope to before the end of the season.
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Old 10-22-2023, 12:26 PM   #7913
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Interesting little note on the GKtech rear knuckles: You don't need to change your ride height. I installed them this weekend for the event on Saturday.



This picture isn't the greatest but, the gktech knuckle is on the left and stock on the right.



Once I dialed the camber back out, ride height was unchanged.



The trackday was wet, and on 265 Kenda KR20, the car was quite a bit faster than the other cars on track. I wasn't tandeming, but I'd catch up with the cars sent ahead of me.
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Old 10-31-2023, 11:37 AM   #7914
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Noice! Finally on the track poorman!!! Lol is that a cut exhaust with those silver hangers? I was wondering what those were..... Isn't it load AF? So happy you finally got it on the track for you.....

Hey any tips on notching my lower bolt hole on my strut tower to have less camber and more coilover spacing between the spring and tire? I can dial in more camber easily at the top plate because of how wide my front lcas are.

I was thinking about making the lower hole about 7mm wider inboard so the tire sits a little less camber than the coilover......
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Old 10-31-2023, 11:37 AM   #7915
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Noice! Finally on the track poorman!!! Lol is that a cut exhaust with those silver hangers? I was wondering what those were..... Isn't it load AF? So happy you finally got it on the track for you.....

Hey any tips on notching my lower bolt hole on my strut tower to have less camber and more coilover spacing between the spring and tire? I can dial in more camber easily at the top plate because of how wide my front lcas are.

I was thinking about making the lower hole about 7mm wider inboard so the tire sits a little less camber than the coilover......
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Old 03-13-2024, 08:18 AM   #7916
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Guess I haven't checked on this thread in a while... Yeah the exhaust is a hastily fabbed x-pipe by me, with two turndowns after the x.

Thanks! It feels really good.

You can do that, and there are some advantages, but just take into account that you are decreasing the jacking/leaning effect in a turn by doing so. It's been a while since I've done any reading on strut angle. I'd say do some more research on that, make sure it's worth it. Otherwise pushing the front track out is a win, run as wide as LCA as you can for the camber/fender you have.
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