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Old 01-02-2019, 03:39 PM   #22441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeilaS14 View Post
yeah engines turns over but thats it, never starts. also cleaned all grounds and positives from any gunk to make sure it was making a connection. not sure what other info to give.. engine just keeps kranking. car started before i switched out the alternator, got it up on ramps, after that it hasnt started.

I was just reading on another forum where someone had the same no start issue as you after replacing the alternator. The battery was damaged from the alternator going out even though it had correct voltage and would turn the engine over. I've never heard of this but I guess it's possible.
It's worth trying another known good battery and seeing if it'll start.
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:11 PM   #22442
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Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Sounds like you missed a connection on the alternator. Triple check the connections again and make sure there isn't some stupid little wire tucked out of the way, disconnected.
alright was finally able to take a look under there and everything look in place where it should be all grounded and no tucked away wires. im going crazy...
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:14 PM   #22443
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Originally Posted by TheBlackHand View Post
I was just reading on another forum where someone had the same no start issue as you after replacing the alternator. The battery was damaged from the alternator going out even though it had correct voltage and would turn the engine over. I've never heard of this but I guess it's possible.
It's worth trying another known good battery and seeing if it'll start.
thats so weird.. doesnt make any sense, i mean maybe thats the case if the bettery was still connected for him but i took mine out before i did anything. ill check with a different tho to make sure.


UPDATE: after taking out my moms car battery and testing it on my car. same thing is happening. engine turns over but never starts.

Last edited by LeilaS14; 01-02-2019 at 06:16 PM..
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Old 01-02-2019, 05:16 PM   #22444
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Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Sounds like you missed a connection on the alternator. Triple check the connections again and make sure there isn't some stupid little wire tucked out of the way, disconnected.
so i was finally able to check and everything is in place with no hidden wires.
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:30 AM   #22445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
MY s14 makes a weird grinding noise from the front right of the car whenever I make a right turn... any suggestions?
Wheel bearing, or potentially the brake dust shield rubbing on the outer edge of the rotor. dependent on the type of " grinding "

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reposting for a fresh set of eyes:
I haven't had experience with the Bosch 65lb, but I did use this dworks model without issues for the 3 years I had that specific car.

I suppose it's just subjective at this point
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Old 01-05-2019, 03:21 AM   #22446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchmeat View Post
Wheel bearing.

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When I jacked up my car I didn't feel or hear any play.

Quote:
Originally Posted by anti tyler View Post
Wheel bearing, or potentially the brake dust shield rubbing on the outer edge of the rotor. dependent on the type of " grinding
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1A59YD_G7k

So my car kind of sounds similar to this guy's car in the video.... More so when I'm braking and that DEEP grinding noise when I make a right turn.
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Old 01-05-2019, 11:44 AM   #22447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
When I jacked up my car I didn't feel or hear any play.
Wheel bearings can go bad without getting wobbly.
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:28 PM   #22448
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Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Wheel bearings can go bad without getting wobbly.
After doing some extensive research, you guys are right... My wheel bearings are shot. Where is the best place to get new s14 Bearing Hub assemblies?

EDIT: my s14 is a 95. It was converted to 5 lugs. I'm trying to figure out is there a difference between the BASE and SE s14 wheel bearing hubs? my s14 is non abs also.
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:43 PM   #22449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
I'm trying to figure out is there a difference between the BASE and SE s14 wheel bearing hubs? my s14 is non abs also.
Nope. Non ABS are all the same.


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Old 01-06-2019, 09:34 AM   #22450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Wheel bearings can go bad without getting wobbly.
Vouch! My car had all new brakes,(Centric Stop Tech upgraded OE calipers, Stop Tech Sport pads, Stop Tech Sport grooved rotors) to include Stop Tech SS lines, hardware, and brand new fluid. After a month or so, it started pulling to the right under hard braking. We checked brake hard lines, hardware, master and slave(which were replaced a month prior), everything we touched and all oe hard lines, NOTHING wrong. Two days later, oh yeah, on teh way to the shop to see if we could figure this shit out, and wobble like a motherfucker, damn wheel bearing...new front hubs(you ever try to find new front hubs for a 96, fuck me runnin it's hard, shit damn near does not exist) Car was beautiful for about two weeks, then SHTF, shifter broke, starter went out, and even though timing is on, I think Distributor has finally lost it's inner capacitor.



It's the hubs becuase brakes don't make deep noises
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:59 AM   #22451
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the moist stupid question, i search but i cant find the right answer.

Why some 180sx tail light and center fit right, and some is like more excelled ?

Pic

This fit fine _ http://prntscr.com/m3rnl3

And this not http://prntscr.com/m3rqew
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Old 01-06-2019, 11:52 AM   #22452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaser View Post
the moist stupid question, i search but i cant find the right answer.

Why some 180sx tail light and center fit right, and some is like more excelled ?

Pic

This fit fine _ http://prntscr.com/m3rnl3

And this not http://prntscr.com/m3rqew
It's because the 180SX Kouki tail light bubble out a little bit. The US 240SX lights are flat. So in order to do the proper conversion, you also need the metal trim piece below the lights. A full kit includes the lights, metal trim, and a longer trunk lock cylinder.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:55 PM   #22453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
It's because the 180SX Kouki tail light bubble out a little bit. The US 240SX lights are flat. So in order to do the proper conversion, you also need the metal trim piece below the lights. A full kit includes the lights, metal trim, and a longer trunk lock cylinder.
I have a Eu 200sx, i bought the metal trim with kouki lights plus harness , and have this trouble i gonna take new photos.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:59 PM   #22454
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Here's the photos

http://prntscr.com/m3x7b9

http://prntscr.com/m3x7no
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:08 PM   #22455
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Quote:
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You got the wrong metal trim.

It's supposed to flair out to meet the lights.

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Old 01-07-2019, 09:41 AM   #22456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
After doing some extensive research, you guys are right... My wheel bearings are shot. Where is the best place to get new s14 Bearing Hub assemblies?

EDIT: my s14 is a 95. It was converted to 5 lugs. I'm trying to figure out is there a difference between the BASE and SE s14 wheel bearing hubs? my s14 is non abs also.
240sxconversions dot com
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:23 PM   #22457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
You got the wrong metal trim.

It's supposed to flair out to meet the lights.
Ok, so, is 2 version for that piece with type X tail lights ( metal round shape) ?

Because i bought the oem one ( FR sport) with whole kit, and fit like the wrong photo.

Im afraid to bought a new one and fit the same way.

thanks in advance
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:54 PM   #22458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [240sx] View Post
Nope. Non ABS are all the same.


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What about ABS hubs?

and by the way, I was inspecting my car today and noticed my s14 had "abs rings" on the wheel hubs... but the car doesn't have abs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
Vouch! My car had all new brakes,(Centric Stop Tech upgraded OE calipers, Stop Tech Sport pads, Stop Tech Sport grooved rotors) to include Stop Tech SS lines, hardware, and brand new fluid. After a month or so, it started pulling to the right under hard braking. We checked brake hard lines, hardware, master and slave(which were replaced a month prior), everything we touched and all oe hard lines, NOTHING wrong. Two days later, oh yeah, on teh way to the shop to see if we could figure this shit out, and wobble like a motherfucker, damn wheel bearing...new front hubs(you ever try to find new front hubs for a 96, fuck me runnin it's hard, shit damn near does not exist) Car was beautiful for about two weeks, then SHTF, shifter broke, starter went out, and even though timing is on, I think Distributor has finally lost it's inner capacitor.



It's the hubs becuase brakes don't make deep noises
Thanks for the info.... I'm now 100% sure it's the wheel bearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
240sxconversions dot com
Wow, that's cheap... How are these holding up?
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:22 PM   #22459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaser View Post
Ok, so, is 2 version for that piece with type X tail lights ( metal round shape) ?

Because i bought the oem one ( FR sport) with whole kit, and fit like the wrong photo.

Im afraid to bought a new one and fit the same way.

thanks in advance
Email frsport and ask what the deal is. The kit on their website has the trim with the obvious bulge. https://frsport.com/frsport-1300-jdm...s-nissan-rps13
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:43 PM   #22460
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I cant say how the hubs are. All 4 corners will eventually have new hubs but I wont know how well it handles until spring. Hopefully it's not shit

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Old 01-07-2019, 05:50 PM   #22461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
What about ABS hubs? and by the way, I was inspecting my car today and noticed my s14 had "abs rings" on the wheel hubs... but the car doesn't have abs.
Whomever did the 5lug conversion on your car probably got them from an ABS equipped SE model. If your car truely doesn't have ABS, then any S14 hub will work.(ABS or non)

Quote:
Originally Posted by caspa View Post
Wow, that's cheap... How are these holding up?
I puchased mine from there due to the price & reviews, but can't speak on longevity since I've only had them installed for like 3weeks.



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Old 01-07-2019, 06:25 PM   #22462
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Quick question, was looking into buying these recaro sports but didnt know if they were real or not. Anyone know?

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Old 01-07-2019, 10:46 PM   #22463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [240sx] View Post
Whomever did the 5lug conversion on your car probably got them from an ABS equipped SE model. If your car truely doesn't have ABS, then any S14 hub will work.(ABS or non)


I puchased mine from there due to the price & reviews, but can't speak on longevity since I've only had them installed for like 3weeks.



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Oh cool thanks man! I just ordered a pair after reading all the reviews on them.



EDIT: Any fan clutch and motor mounts recommendation for the s14?
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Old 01-08-2019, 06:15 PM   #22464
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Anyone have feedback on clutch pedal feel with a 7/8 master and nismo slave (or 3/4). I have a .7 master and was curious how much harder of a feel a 7/8 is.

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Old 01-12-2019, 12:15 PM   #22465
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I have Silvia triple projector headlights on my car, I lost the small metal clip for the Low beam bulb and now I have the opportunity to buy the metal clip from the fog light, but don't know if they are the same clip. Does anyone know off hand if they are the same clip or different? I know the fog light bulb is an H3 and the Low beam is H3C, but not sure if they are the same or not.
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Old 01-14-2019, 12:13 AM   #22466
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I currently have a 1/2" torque wrench that cover 40-250lbs. I'm looking for a 3/8" torque wrench that covers the lighter stuff (10-80?), any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-14-2019, 12:20 AM   #22467
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I currently have a 1/2" torque wrench that cover 40-250lbs. I'm looking for a 3/8" torque wrench that covers the lighter stuff (10-80?), any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
I use a gear wrench 3/8 electronic wrench at my work, I really like it. It's easy to program and accurate (been at the shop for ~ 3 years).

Other recommendation would be a CDI wrench.

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Old 01-15-2019, 06:26 AM   #22468
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Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
I use a gear wrench 3/8 electronic wrench at my work, I really like it. It's easy to program and accurate (been at the shop for ~ 3 years).

Other recommendation would be a CDI wrench.

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I have a nice little 1/4" inch pound wrench I use for firearms. Works great for smaller stuff in 240's. What it doesn't cover, the 1/2" does. It'll do 70"# easily. and it goes up to 150" or 12'# In a 240, the next higher amount is 30'# so the 1/2" '# wrench is golden.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:36 PM   #22469
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Indeed I read the sidebar and wiki and the principles. Truly I realize you folks suggest having an expert take the necessary steps for car stuff, yet the vehicle I'm taking a shot at isn't a road vehicle it is a rough terrain fix.

I googled around and the one that looks the most satisfying to me is Flux Core Welding. From what I've been perusing its essentially MIG welding however without gas and utilizing a Flux Core.

I was likewise thinking about whether you could suggest a basic welder
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Old 01-16-2019, 06:11 AM   #22470
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Indeed I read the sidebar and wiki and the principles. Truly I realize you folks suggest having an expert take the necessary steps for car stuff, yet the vehicle I'm taking a shot at isn't a road vehicle it is a rough terrain fix.

I googled around and the one that looks the most satisfying to me is Flux Core Welding. From what I've been perusing its essentially MIG welding however without gas and utilizing a Flux Core.

I was likewise thinking about whether you could suggest a basic welder
A 'basic' welder runs about $300 or so from Lowe's or Harbor Freight. This will get you a stick welder or a very basic wire feed welder or a plasma cutter. If you are going to weld stainless, you need tanks oxy acetylene with argon, and the rest of the kit.
Wire feed will do seam welding and pretty much any basic stuff on the car(seam welding parts or body core, attaching brackets, etc). TIG, for exhaust and intake piping that is stainless or cool lightweight metal.


You want the standard pro level worker stuff, get ready to spend around $1,000 but at a welding and gas shop, you will get everything you need along with all the right pro gear. I try to tell anyone who welds, in a car, you will be welding under your work, so get a leather protector that covers arms, chest and neck. I dated an asian coworker when we worked together in San Francisco on high rise stuff welding, she hated her leathers in the summer...til that one single slag went down her chest onto her boob. She was a convert after that that no matter how hot, that pro gear was ON. She had the cutest scar that ran from just under her neck, dotted down her chest and ended with a nice round circle right on the edge of her cleavage. As I remember, she looked pretty damn hot all black hair holding that welder handle...
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