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Old 04-10-2009, 07:19 AM   #1621
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Haha Thanks guys yeah practice makes perfect it had actually been a while since i did some aluminum fab work. definetly missed working with aluminum i enjoyed every minute of it. i'll have updated pics later on today. Just got done installing the real couplers that are going on it. (4ply high heat silicone) and Stainless Steel Tbolt clamps. can we say balling? haha

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This is what 140$ in couplers and clamps looks like





aren't 2" T-bolt clamps the cutest thing? lol
sorry everyone, i had to quote at least one pic so bardabe knows what i'm talking about.

won't that piping transition create a shit ton of turbulence?

like jeff said the reducer coupler would be a better route because it's a smoother transition from the smaller pipe to the larger pipe.

no offense, but what you did is gonna create a train wreck inside your piping.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:54 AM   #1622
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well when I did mine I used a silicon reducer straight off the side of the cooler, and keeping the pipe small all the way. so im not just reviewing someones shit online... probably easier and quicker infact with less welding and matching to do... silicon reducer was like $15
Depends on how you look at it and want it done. going from a 2" Hot Pipe into an Enormous 3" intercooler like that Will make allot more turbulence

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sorry everyone, i had to quote at least one pic so bardabe knows what i'm talking about.

won't that piping transition create a shit ton of turbulence?

like jeff said the reducer coupler would be a better route because it's a smoother transition from the smaller pipe to the larger pipe.

no offense, but what you did is gonna create a train wreck inside your piping.
How is that going to make a train wreck? My client wanted full 3" intercooler piping. the closest to the Turbo i can make it 3" the better. i could not find any high quality 3' - 2" 4ply silicone reducers. that are high temp. as close as that piping is to the manifold i did not want my customer to be melting couplers like they where marshmallows.

another thing. is that going from 2-> 2.5" ->3" would require more couplers, more and more clamps. making chances of boost leaks allot more probable. yes I could have gone that route, but then he wouldn't have a true full 3" Intercooler piping like he wanted. i mean if you look at a GTR's Hot pipe off the turbo that alone makes wayyyy more turbulence than that hot pipe.

this is a good example


see how it's like a T. i really don't see how my reduction will be a "train wreck" as far as responce goes, it's all about the tuning and your motor. look at RB26's they are the perfect example of this. they have full 3" intercooler piping. 2.6liters, and Twin T28's yet their spool is phenomenal and response is insane.

so a 2l iter should have no problem with this, specially if he gets a nice set of cams and proper tuning.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:42 PM   #1623
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^^^ I agree that it's not as big a deal as everyone's making it out to be - like I said, intercooler piping's one of those things that turns into a "whatever works" scenario, because unless you're moving the intercooler physically closer to the turbo/intake mani, it's just not going to make that much of a difference.

And turbulence? It's all under pressure lol. Turbulence isn't going to matter.
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Old 04-10-2009, 01:05 PM   #1624
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It isn't an F1 car. There is nothing wrong with that intercooler piping. You are being way over dramatic.

Good job bardabe
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:06 PM   #1625
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Catch can for the KA, pretty clean and simple, takes up space never used if electric fan'd. I tried to put the KA valve cover curve in the top so it would look better.
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:30 PM   #1626
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^^ how exactly does that catch can work? There isn't a visual vacuum source. welds looks good though, you need to improve the pedal control. i can tell you where too hot in a few spots. other than that it looks great!
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:26 PM   #1627
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Just catches oil that would blow by from increase crank case pressure, since its turbo you no longer want to recirc it back into the intake since that will coat pipes and ic with oil and it increase detonation when tuning. (not to mention most stock locations would force boosted air into the engine ha) So its kinda required so you dont coat track with oil and kill someone that corners through it at 90mph. There are other designs that would draw some vac to help pull hot gases out of the engine and replace with fresh by putting holes in the block where the plugs are and removing pvc system. You would get that vac from the exhaust by a tube welded at a large angle. Then your not sucking in oilish hot air from the engine into the intake.

Its very thin and hand cut so minor gaps, AL is easy if thicker but thats like 1/16th

Then too boot i belt sand to level the cuts out.. thus material other then AL like grit and glue get on the edge making the weld hard to control as you burn those elements slight contamination will occur. This AL also had that plastic coating on one side and i left on while belt sanding so that can get into the groves left from the grit on sanding belt. So there are a few hot spots or hard to control area where this happened.. give me prime conditions and ill throw down some super sexiness if thats your fedish, im a pedal control storm trooper of death. I helped build the death star for vader but i figued out time control and came to this age because 240sxs are cooler then 3d moving space ships.. the blackness of space is boring but the 2d movment of this age is rather refreshing.
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:01 PM   #1628
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Just catches oil that would blow by from increase crank case pressure, since its turbo you no longer want to recirc it back into the intake since that will coat pipes and ic with oil and it increase detonation when tuning. (not to mention most stock locations would force boosted air into the engine ha) So its kinda required so you dont coat track with oil and kill someone that corners through it at 90mph. There are other designs that would draw some vac to help pull hot gases out of the engine and replace with fresh by putting holes in the block where the plugs are and removing pvc system. You would get that vac from the exhaust by a tube welded at a large angle. Then your not sucking in oilish hot air from the engine into the intake.

Its very thin and hand cut so minor gaps, AL is easy if thicker but thats like 1/16th

Then too boot i belt sand to level the cuts out.. thus material other then AL like grit and glue get on the edge making the weld hard to control as you burn those elements slight contamination will occur. This AL also had that plastic coating on one side and i left on while belt sanding so that can get into the groves left from the grit on sanding belt. So there are a few hot spots or hard to control area where this happened.. give me prime conditions and ill throw down some super sexiness if thats your fedish, im a pedal control storm trooper of death. I helped build the death star for vader but i figued out time control and came to this age because 240sxs are cooler then 3d moving space ships.. the blackness of space is boring but the 2d movment of this age is rather refreshing.
LOL your awesome. dude love the scifi epicness of win.

as far as the contamination i always keep a clean shop rag and a spray bottle full of rubbing alcohol and wipe down the areas before i weld them. removes and oils, and contaminants from the surface allowing you cleaner welds.

as far as the evacuation from the crank goes, you really should put it back to the turbo it won't suck up oil and coat the pipes in an oily film ive done it time after time. im even running my Z32 like that. no oil in my piping at all.
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:03 PM   #1629
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Quote:
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^^ how exactly does that catch can work? There isn't a visual vacuum source. welds looks good though, you need to improve the pedal control. i can tell you where too hot in a few spots. other than that it looks great!
Nuekin- I completely disagree. It should be routed just like stock... Just like the picture you were referring to except it needs to route back to the intake (pre turbo) to actually relieve crankcase pressure. The idea is to create vaccuum.

Simply 'catches' the shit you wouldnt want going back to your intake, that's the whole point, to keep the system functional and putting in the catch can to keep pipes oil free. Breather filter doesn't cut it because it doesn't release enough pressure or create any vaccuum or pull - thus not allowing the crankcase pressure out of the head/block. Low pressure on the bottom side of the piston is Good, allowing the piston to be pushed down/turn crank easier. No intake vaccuum = positive crank pressure which can lead to a bunch of shitty problem
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:17 PM   #1630
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So when a piston goes up your negative pressure would be bad so whats the gain?

Also like i said the whole reason for it is to keep hot and oiled air out of the intake system since it can create detonation. (oil in ic and oil on your MAF isnt good either)

The oil that shoots out of the valve cover from excessive pressure (kicked up from cams and such) is caught by the can and the filter is large thus letting any positive air move through the filter. Id use another vac source like i said in the last post. The only reason the factory setup goes into the intake is for emissions and its legal.
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:29 PM   #1631
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Quote:
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So when a piston goes up your negative pressure would be bad so whats the gain?

Also like i said the whole reason for it is to keep hot and oiled air out of the intake system since it can create detonation. (oil in ic and oil on your MAF isnt good either)

The oil that shoots out of the valve cover from excessive pressure (kicked up from cams and such) is caught by the can and the filter is large thus letting any positive air move through the filter. Id use another vac source like i said in the last post. The only reason the factory setup goes into the intake is for emissions and its legal.
I don't want to go to far off topic here... there's no advantage to having a pressurized motor, forcing the piston upwards certainly isn't worth the other problems its going to cause nor does it make sense from an engineering standpoint.

You want vacuum, not just a pressure vent, look at stock setups from any car - PCV valve to the IM, usually a vent to the intake. Why would they design it there if it was pointless? Might as well just seal everything shut. Whoever designed the SR put in the factory air/water separator above the exh. mani stock..
You also realize that almost every vacuum source (minus exhaust flow) is going back into the motor anyways.

The idea of the evac system is to remove pressure, search it, google it, whatever... every car comes with one, some ls1's have a seperate vaccuum pump designated for it. Oil shooting from a VC is usually a sign of more serious issues than standard crankcase pressure.

I started a thread a while back and here's some more info
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1199935
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:47 AM   #1632
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Ill check it out, prob seen it already.. dig Hondatech been member since like 03 but the extra power you make over factory specs through modification on a engine require modification elsewhere. I understand all pressure comes from gas coming past the rings small percentage from heat expansion. The valve to head has gravity paths where gas may travel up as oil goes down. I dont see it ever getting pressurized with the correct valve cover or engine plug mods. If you ran vac its best from exhaust never the intake for the reason i already said. The vac is not needed but would help suck the blowby out.

I just looked at that first post and you even say its good if that was you that started the thread.

"This method is adequate for ventilating crankcase gasses in turbocharged/supercharged cars because the extra blow-by will force its way through any filter quite easily. You want to make sure you provide as many sources as possible to allow the pressure to escape with ease."

"highest possible location you can locate in your engine bay"

Im done talking about this haha, gee
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:55 PM   #1633
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Something interesting coming soon.

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Old 04-11-2009, 09:20 PM   #1634
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Something interesting coming soon.

Haha, ahhhhhhhhhhhh shit!
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:00 AM   #1635
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yuuum Gotta Love Turbo V8's
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:20 AM   #1636
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Well I've been doing more welding on the chasis for my school, I just kept forgetting my camera but now I finally got pics!

I started getting my technique down a little bit better on the TIG lately. Of course they're still imperfections but I'm getting better slowly.

I'll have to practice stainless steel though since we have some parts we need welded up that are going to be stainless to stainless. I've never done this though. I believe I have to use AC settings though. Any advice would also help













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Old 04-12-2009, 03:34 AM   #1637
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no you dont use AC for stainless.

fuuuckkk i love it, it flows nicely and its pretty

your gunna love it too sir!
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:06 PM   #1638
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Is that chassis for the FSAE competition?!?
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:17 PM   #1639
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Is that chassis for the FSAE competition?!?
Something like that.
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:09 AM   #1640
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Luke your an animal lol

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Old 04-13-2009, 12:18 AM   #1641
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Something like that.
We are in the process of building our chassis here at the University of Minnesota as well. Should have the chassis done by the end of the week.
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:32 AM   #1642
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Same here, I hope, I have minor things to weld though such as bungs, but there's alot so I know it'll add up.
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:00 AM   #1643
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Just a couple pics of stuff I've been working on.
First is a cage in a rb20 hatch. I'm especially happy that I got the door bars to clear the door panels on this one


Next up is the scrap13... Basically built from what was left from my s12 after the crash..
I figured with how much room I had I mine as well go v-mount. Lol


Hope you enjoy
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:46 AM   #1644
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I don't know how you get all that done in a day - that's SOOOO much work! lol
because he doesn't spend all day spanking it to his own wheels and how fat the lip is, and fixing the wiring in my car... you know, like you. =P

Now finish your tubs jackass lol.
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:26 AM   #1645
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Its almost done but heres the tubs I did:


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Old 04-14-2009, 09:25 PM   #1646
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^^I see you did your own fender braces. Look pretty cool.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:18 PM   #1647
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I got a question for you guys about welding 4130 chromoly.

Is it fine to cool the welds in water right after welding the tubes?

I believe I heard that it can cause the welds to crack. Hopefully someone can verify if this is true or not.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:43 PM   #1648
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Use minimum heat input when welding 4130. It gets brittle if you input to much heat, and starts to carbon scale. Also allow to cool slowly. In the aerospace industry they usually heat treat the entire welded piece after welding, just to reduce the possibility of cracking.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:52 PM   #1649
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:05 AM   #1650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blu808 View Post
Use minimum heat input when welding 4130. It gets brittle if you input to much heat, and starts to carbon scale. Also allow to cool slowly. In the aerospace industry they usually heat treat the entire welded piece after welding, just to reduce the possibility of cracking.
Thanks for the info.

I've just been running 50amps for .049" tubing and it seems to be fine so far.

Me and the other guy welding at school were going to heat up the welds with oxy and let it cool down naturually.
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