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Old 03-19-2013, 02:45 AM   #121
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Morning.



Happy for me, I got help froma friend the last couple days so I have been able to save some time to get the rollcage fitted with the interior and the mounting.

As explained earlier I am relocating the fusebox that is factory mounted in the engine bay. This is because I want an engine bay that is almost free of any cables or pieces that can be relocated. Like Jr_ss I hav decided to move the whole fusebox into the trunk, but I have not mounted it yet, just plaid it there for later. Plan it to weld a custom fusebox in aluminium that looks a bit more sexy than the OEM one which I have cut into pieces lol.


So in case to do this, one needs cables, quite a lot actually too. This is where an S13 chassis for cheap is nice to find! (thanks to MesS)



This chassis got an almost complete electrical wiring loom, wnad whats better than that? Now I got all the cables with almost the exact same colors and dots on the wires, so much better than doing it all with 6 colors that i had bought.



time for some hacking!
It was actually mindblowing to see all the junk and black electrical tape that was used on an entire loom.


Was like 10 kg and 50 litres of garbage haha

Now it was just doing this

to 30 wires, x 2 I'm glad my mate did that, so I could focus on the rollcage



Started making holes and a brace for the B-pillar/ mid piece of the rollcage.
Actually, it got some real JDM rust coming straight from Japan, probably should keep that in a box lol

Of course the entire cage will be grinded down and repainted with plastidip or something. I am just not doing that before i got the mountings ready, to avoid scratching it when it is painted. Made 6 plates for the 6 points of the cage. made in 3,5mm stainless, then painted a couple layers with Hammerite.

mid


front




and the rear



The holes I cut for the rear bar got quite displaced, it wasn't easy finding out where to exactly place the cut ://// Guess I'll do a big fatass listing to make it look a little nicer, maybe even buying a new one and make a cleaner cut now as I know where the bar will be placed






Basically everything looks like hell at the garage, but it the way it goes when doing all this electrical work. Will do a biiiig cleanup when done with the relocating of the fusebox.

To be continued

Peace
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:31 AM   #122
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Wiring.

Soldering all this and it's done, we only need some kind of sexy fusebox instead of the fatty thats in the engine bay stock, which is just pure overkill after everything we've removed..

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Old 03-19-2013, 08:58 AM   #123
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If you're gunna run this thing anywhere near low, you'll want to flip those cage bolts the other way round, so you don't gouge your tires, or scrape the ground with them!

Made that mistake before.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:58 AM   #124
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If you're gunna run this thing anywhere near low, you'll want to flip those cage bolts the other way round, so you don't gouge your tires, or scrape the ground with them!

Made that mistake before.

Yeah I know, but thanks anyway. I havent cutted the bolts yet as I most likely will use some hardened Unbraco instead which is shorter.

Cheers
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:41 PM   #125
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Micro update.

Took the main tower plates off of the cusco strut as the painted red color was not fitting in my engine bay, looked like shit with red in there, even Cusco blue would been better, but I removed all the paint with sand.

here is how the contrast was, red versus the FN2 color in the bay


Demounted



After stripping off the paint and adding the special Wrinkle colour, it was time for some baking!



after about an hour at 93 degrees celcius, dinner was served.



Closeup



Didn't have time for it today but having the gold coated tomorrow, so it looks the same as my rocker cover:




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Old 03-21-2013, 08:42 PM   #126
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The china arms are usually poorly powdercoated, which is undoubtedly why you had issues with the blast cabinent removing them. It's nasty stuff!
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:46 AM   #127
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The china arms are usually poorly powdercoated, which is undoubtedly why you had issues with the blast cabinent removing them. It's nasty stuff!
Well most of the paint went off in the cabinet? first the ugle red then the blu underneat, isn't Cusco japanese? to bar got a aluminium cusco emblem on it

Nice seeing you still looks into this build I think I have to get a BOV and Apexi PFC to get some more response here on the forum
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:23 AM   #128
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Great build bro! Keep it coming!
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:10 AM   #129
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Great build bro! Keep it coming!
Thanks mate, maybe dat be daint should come over and fab lhd on a s15 hehe ;-)

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Old 03-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #130
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Thanks mate, maybe dat be daint should come over and fab lhd on a s15 hehe ;-)

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Hahaha we can make that happen!
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:03 PM   #131
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Well most of the paint went off in the cabinet? first the ugle red then the blu underneat, isn't Cusco japanese? to bar got a aluminium cusco emblem on it

Nice seeing you still looks into this build I think I have to get a BOV and Apexi PFC to get some more response here on the forum
Ah I missed that they were Cusco, yes they are Japanese for sure.

Yea that powdercoat is funny to remove. YOu can use Permetex Gasket remover to get it off too.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:09 PM   #132
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Ah I missed that they were Cusco, yes they are Japanese for sure.

Yea that powdercoat is funny to remove. YOu can use Permetex Gasket remover to get it off too.

Aha, thanks for the tip, I'll use it next time. Think I spent an hour or more in the cabinet with a 100 litres aircompressor :P

More updates in about 24 hours
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:17 PM   #133
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i use to run a sand blasting shop, and we blast wine barrel racks, to have them re powder coated, its crazy how well it can stick, but peel at the same time
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:30 PM   #134
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i use to run a sand blasting shop, and we blast wine barrel racks, to have them re powder coated, its crazy how well it can stick, but peel at the same time

yeah, exactly same as i have experienced, sticks more than glue but also can peel off like old paint on wood after some time
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:41 PM   #135
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Spontanious decided to place the radiator in the rear.

Positive:

Better cooling
Better wheight balance
More space in engine bay
More flow trough the intercooler


Negative

Noisy
Could be fatal if one of the lines gets a rift
More cost to a build that have already ruined me










Also have to get the air out of the trunk, so this was the best thing to do


after


this is how it looks from the inside


Made and welded in some braces to mount the radiator to, and this was the best position. I didn't want it standing vertically as it would look so ugly haha. Plan is to make either a Lexan or carbon fibre duct for the air to get out.

Also need to make everything look nice as well! It's only half done yet.




I could not take any more pictures of the cylinder head, as it is in another garage for fixing a intake valve leak in cyl. 2

Hoping to rebuild the motor in the coming 2 weeks, depending on how much time I got for it. The other garage wich is "dust free" is about 2 hours of driving from here :P


More updates to come

adding a few random pics :














Fres beginning of a new day, whats better than an entire Sunday at the garage?

First step I had in mind was getting the engine lowered and into the right position!

Found the upper oilpan, lifted the block out of the car and put on the upper oilpan and mounted it back to the gearbox.
at first I got it about 1 cm lowered, sitting about 2cm above the steering.





Took the jack, a small plank and place it underneat of the front of the oilpan.


lowered it so it laid on the steering, than raised it by 1,5mm
Now it's about to get tight!


Now its about 30mm lower than originally mounted by Nissan!


Custom bellhousing, cut it off the primera gearbox.



About the CAS, I took the one who came with the engine and cut off the plastic cover from it, to see whats inside



Took a spare 54c cylinder head and lait it ontop of the block to check how things would mount


I also had to measure how low the engine now sits the ground, 61cm on the spot!

To do this I just slammed on some coilovers in the front and lower arms + Knucles and put some wheels on in the front, and laid it on some planks in the rear


Oilpan - "How low can your SR20 go?"

Also mounted some more things into the enginebay, to see how it will look when done.




Tires that I plan to run. Yokohama Advan. 250 in front, 280 rear


Have to make a downpipe and exhaust!!


About 10mm of clearance, but I didn't realise the cylinder head was not placed right at the moment, So I was glad that it seemed to fit! ;/

Opened the CAS

the Autronic can read this plate, it got like 350 tooth or something, but It would not be the best.
Luckily for me, I already had a special made Autronic trigger plate for the SR20 Cas =D

Got the head on spot later, showed about 1mm clearance!

So, plan is to cut away the piece that hits the firewall. It is no point keeping it anymore anyway..

The scratces above the paint, its from how far up the engine was originalle sitting, when I started checking how the CAS would fit many weeks ago, surely i have gotten it lowered!



Pizza is needed when we stay here all day!No worries, car needs to be repainted anyway though
Custom motor mounts



I also visited my M8's garage today. He is an experte when it comes to cylinder heads! He is a Ingeniour working at the Kongsberg Aero group facility, working with Air flow in engines. When I first saw the BTCC head he literally fingered it and smiled

Took a snap of the head, laying there on one of his benches.
Note the combustin chamber is machined all out for 90mm bore with not much Squish.








We have talked about the valvesizes. I could insert 2mm larger valves on the exhaust, and 1mm larger intake, but if I do that they would be in touch when they are closed, and it could cause failure.

Also made the upper radiator mounts!


For the request:


totally knifed and HUGE. It cannot even be compared to a normal SR20 head ports... About 55mm <->


I know the garage looks like a Hobo nest! :O That is because of a lot of people dropping by to see how it looks and things get super messy. Have to do a major cleanup soon!!


Good night
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:56 PM   #136
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Awesome progress man!
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:06 AM   #137
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Awesome progress man!

Thank you very much! I was quite impressed about myself, that I did all that in about 10 hours.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:09 AM   #138
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You making a skid-plate to protect that oil pan area? I would be worried if it was my motor.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:27 PM   #139
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such a legit build. why solder like that.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:28 PM   #140
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You making a skid-plate to protect that oil pan area? I would be worried if it was my motor.
Yeah of course :-) I just forgot to write it. Need some protection against the curbs etc.



Will try to stay off the curbs, at least the

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Old 04-09-2013, 01:03 PM   #141
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This is amazing stuff- can't wait to hear what this thing is going to sound like!

Make sure to put a screen over the turbine to keep small animals and children from getting sucked in
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:21 PM   #142
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Wow. Those ports make my SR20DET head looks like a chump.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:52 AM   #143
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This is amazing stuff- can't wait to hear what this thing is going to sound like!

Make sure to put a screen over the turbine to keep small animals and children from getting sucked in
Thank you very much!

Well I can't wait myself. The crankshaft is now done and I am going to drive and pick it up either today or tomorrow. Also te new custom rod bearings with no holes in them so it will handle high pressure and much rpm without Oilfilm divinding, making metal to metal.

I will try my best to avoid sucking that in haha
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Wow. Those ports make my SR20DET head looks like a chump.
Haha, no worries my good man. The stock SR20det blacktop head flowes upto 500 bhp unported. The ports in this head is very huge, 55mm wide. As seen in a picture in this thread I can insert my Visa debet into it, and the card is 55,5 mm wide or something.


Hoping to make an exhaust that works well. Been studying how the Ferraris etc make the exhaust sound like that their turboed cars sound like N/A.

Also buying a valve to quickly swap the WG pipes open or into downpipe.
Problem is 100 DB is max for Norwegian racetracks
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:48 AM   #144
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:51 AM   #145
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90-100mm piping, as few bends as possible and a flowy resonator or two in there might keep the noise down. Not sure though- that's a helluva lot of power to try to keep quiet=)

Is this going to be a drag or circuit car? Sorry if you already posted that somewhere- I was too hypnotized by the insanity of the build lol
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:54 AM   #146
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Glad to hear!

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90-100mm piping, as few bends as possible and a flowy resonator or two in there might keep the noise down. Not sure though- that's a helluva lot of power to try to keep quiet=)

Is this going to be a drag or circuit car? Sorry if you already posted that somewhere- I was too hypnotized by the insanity of the build lol

Yeah, Going to make the dp 4".
At first the plan was having a cool streetcar for summer usage
then all this happened the past year and a half

I think it's being a timeattack/circuit car without any special licence atm.
Also the local SX club will arrange some dragracing in the meetings and such and I've got quite a few already asking me to race them in a drag haha.

Main purpose is to go fast around the track, and not sideways.
I mainy bought a SX as I am tired of seeing them all just go sideways haha, so I want to make a difference. I know the Silvia got potentional.
Next year I got some special plans of a tubeframe silvia, inspired by gt300 and gt500 class, just even wider.

Posting update tomorrow
Cheers
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:56 AM   #147
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such a legit build. why solder like that.
Thanks

What does solder mean?

Sorry, English is not my spoken language
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:04 PM   #148
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What does solder mean?

Sorry, English is not my spoken language
No problem- Engelsken din er bedre enn mour Norsk

solder = ledning loddetinn... (In case I didn't say it correctly- connecting the wires with the melted metal stuff)

I thought solder was an odd choice as well. I don't like how rigid it gets... I prefer splices- not the cheap ones... but the aircraft-grade splices with the barrel connectors & environmental sleeves.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:15 PM   #149
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No problem- Engelsken din er bedre enn mour Norsk

solder = ledning loddetinn... (In case I didn't say it correctly- connecting the wires with the melted metal stuff)

I thought solder was an odd choice as well. I don't like how rigid it gets... I prefer splices- not the cheap ones... but the aircraft-grade splices with the barrel connectors & environmental sleeves.
Do you speak Norwegian, or did you use google? haha

Aha ok, I kind of tought so

Well the guy doing the job is very skilled with it, he is building computers and such. I would have used some filty and good connectors if I had, but at the time I don't + I have no sponsors besides my second spareblock I got sleeved and such for 1/3 price. Running so low on cash that I can't even remember when I was buying anything than work clothes last time
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:31 PM   #150
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^^ I do pick up other languages quite well, but in this case, I blame Google Translate for whatever I said incorrectly Aside from English, I can speak German and Farci quite well... and some Spanish.

Back to your build...

Hey man, you are saving money and still creating a TOTALLY EXTREME car- In the big picture, as long as the wires are secure; you are good to go~
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