KA-T won't run for longer than 15 seconds!!!!

[lilrussian]

Alright, lets play a game called why won't my car run longer than 10-15 seconds.

Aright, so I have a t25 from an SR, 550cc injectors, N60 maf, emance s13 ecu tuned for what I have, I also just put in an FPR just to see if that could be a problem.
Now, I start the car, it runs fine.....for 10 seconds...10 if I try giving it some gas, and 15-18 if I just let it idle after I start it.
Does this seem like a problem with the fuel pump? Because I have a walboro 255.
The ONE and ONLY thing i didn't try is using a different fuel pump.
It does the same thing even with the stock ka 5-speed ecu.
So it's not the ecu.
My gauge show's me that I have like 9-11 vacuum...

FPR gauge is useless, shows me nothing, always stays at zero.
I should be able to upload a video of that problem later one tonight or tomorrow.

I'm tired of the car just sitting.
I need help with my vacuum lines and this problem also is making me quite mad.

So ANY help would be just awesome guys!
I may have just become a member but I been here a while!
Thanks!!!

Feel free to poke at me and see if I'm just a retard and don't see something.
Not my first turbo car but it is my first NA-->Turbo car.

[Sileighty_85]

check MAFS and Vac Leaks

Try unplugging the MAFS and starting it

[4-20sx]

Agreed ^^^^^

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

check MAFS and Vac Leaks

Try unplugging the MAFS and starting it

Vaccum leak I am going to try to figure out.
Cause I have the FPR vacuum tee'd to my boost gauge.
And where would I connect the nipple on my cold pipe and the BOV to?
Also, where would I connect the Actuator to?

[roboticnissan]

if your fpr guage is at 0 thats a good place to start. if you touch the gas pedal it dies, its prolly cuz your fuel pressure is too low. is it adjustable your fpr? have you tried adjusting it? is your guage even a quality brand that can be trusted?

and from all turbo cars ive ever had and my first was a sohcT ka vaccum was closer to 20.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by roboticnissan

if your fpr guage is at 0 thats a good place to start. if you touch the gas pedal it dies, its prolly cuz your fuel pressure is too low. is it adjustable your fpr? have you tried adjusting it? is your guage even a quality brand that can be trusted?

and from all turbo cars ive ever had and my first was a sohcT ka vaccum was closer to 20.

Yes I adjusted it.
The only difference it makes is black smoke or no smoke...
So it's working but the gauge on the FPR isn't showing any pressure.
My vacuum is deff messed up, I know that much.
But the thing is that no matter how I adjust the FPR the car dies...
and if I give it some gas, the car revs high and then dies (all this lasted like 7 seconds)
Now, if I start it and don't give it any gas it will last 15 seconds without dying, but if I start it and try giving it some gas after 10 seconds it dies.

it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine to me..
Could this really be a vacuum issue?

[roboticnissan]

THIS SOUNDS LIKE A FUEL PROBLEM.

get a guage that works sir. you should be showing like 30 psi i think but im not too sure.

grab your return line and pinch it to see if theres gas. if there is your fpr prolly isnt holding enuff fuel back.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by roboticnissan

THIS SOUNDS LIKE A FUEL PROBLEM.

get a guage that works sir. you should be showing like 30 psi i think but im not too sure.

grab your return line and pinch it to see if theres gas. if there is your fpr prolly isnt holding enuff fuel back.

Well I got my vacuum prob fixed.
Now, it shows me 5 PSI.
I gotta adjust the FPR, but I got the car to run at idle without ever dying, but it ran so rough and it died as soon as I touch the throttle.

[roboticnissan]

As soon as you touch the throttle your tps is calling for more gas that isn't there.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by roboticnissan

As soon as you touch the throttle your tps is calling for more gas that isn't there.

yeah, but when you turn the key to the on position it pumps enough fuel and it's enough for the car to run for 15 seconds.
But I know it's something to do with the fuel, or MAF/Tune.
So right now I'm going to adjust the FPR the right way and get it to the right PSI.
If doesn't work, then hello new MAF and ECU -__-

[roboticnissan]

It idled fine right? Your car has a tune? Who tuned it and what R you using to.tune ii.

It still sounds like gas to me. You need like 30psi to.run a car. Not idle, run. So your 5psi is wicked low.

[roboticnissan]

sscratch the tune question I must have missed it.

[stunnaben]

I'm willing to bet you mixed up the fuel feed and return lines... switch them around I'm betting it will fix your problem. Happened to me once upon a time.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by stunnaben

I'm willing to bet you mixed up the fuel feed and return lines... switch them around I'm betting it will fix your problem. Happened to me once upon a time.

I wish it was that easy.
Saw that problem so many times.
But my car starts fine, and runs...so my feed is not mixed, and I checked :P


I will mess with the FPR to get 30, If I cannot get 30, then I will look into the pump and if it's getting power after starting, THEN work on tune lol
That's more specific, sorry.
I suspected it's fuel too, so I will work on that aswell.

[codyace]

Fuel pressure should be at 43.5, with the vacuum source disconnected (or roughly 36ish hooked up with a known solid motor)

Whats your vacuum at idle? If it's not at 14-16ish I'd also look into that being an issue...timing is set correctly?

Your fuel gauge is also before rail, or on the remote FPR right? You could even splice one in line to double verify.


But again thats what I would verify...one that hte cars timing is adjusted properly (also consider a bad tune/faulty tune/tuned for a specific timing and you're not there), and then to see if you have fuel pressure.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by codyace

Fuel pressure should be at 43.5, with the vacuum source disconnected (or roughly 36ish hooked up with a known solid motor)

Whats your vacuum at idle? If it's not at 14-16ish I'd also look into that being an issue...timing is set correctly?

Your fuel gauge is also before rail, or on the remote FPR right? You could even splice one in line to double verify.


But again thats what I would verify...one that hte cars timing is adjusted properly (also consider a bad tune/faulty tune/tuned for a specific timing and you're not there), and then to see if you have fuel pressure.

Vacuum is fixed, it's at 20 and responds to throttle well.
The only problem is that the gauges show's 5 psi of fuel.
So I wanna mess with that, I will update if I am able to get it to 35-37 PSI.

Timing was never touched, like I said, this car has 135,000 miles and the engine runs PERFECT.
the only things that changed were the oil lines, injectors, fuel pump, and the vacuum is back to normal, so I got the vacuum problem figured out.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by lilrussian

Vacuum is fixed, it's at 20 and responds to throttle well.
The only problem is that the gauges show's 5 psi of fuel.
So I wanna mess with that, I will update if I am able to get it to 35-37 PSI.

Timing was never touched, like I said, this car has 135,000 miles and the engine runs PERFECT.
the only things that changed were the oil lines, injectors, fuel pump, and the vacuum is back to normal, so I got the vacuum problem figured out.

Is it a known good FPR? And I know we've said it 100x in here, but you do have it Filter - Gauge - Rail - FPR (or gauge on fpr if external) right?

Knowing the vacuum is set, I'd certainly be looking (as you are too) at the fueling. Another thing to consider, is if you have proper voltage to the pump itself?

Just trying to help troubleshoot, sorry if some things are redundant.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by codyace

Is it a known good FPR? And I know we've said it 100x in here, but you do have it Filter - Gauge - Rail - FPR (or gauge on fpr if external) right?

Knowing the vacuum is set, I'd certainly be looking (as you are too) at the fueling. Another thing to consider, is if you have proper voltage to the pump itself?

Just trying to help troubleshoot, sorry if some things are redundant.

Yeah no problem man!
I would update what I have done just I have been sick these few days.
Fever got to 103, so cant really do any work
Perfect way to be for Christmas ehh?

But I got an FPR that is Filter-->FPR/gauge-->fuel rail-->fuel return.
Would that work?

I'm waiting for my friend to come over with his multi meter so that I can test if the pump is getting the power it needs after the car is on.

[codyace]

Ahh, you need the FPR after the fuel rail for sure.

Sucks being sick for Xmas, I was that way last year

EDIT: THis was an issue before or after the FPR install? Regardless on a return system the FPR needs to be after the fuel rail, but I'd still also check the pump power itself, as well. May not be a bad time to do a rewire while you're in there.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by codyace

Ahh, you need the FPR after the fuel rail for sure.

Sucks being sick for Xmas, I was that way last year

EDIT: THis was an issue before or after the FPR install? Regardless on a return system the FPR needs to be after the fuel rail, but I'd still also check the pump power itself, as well. May not be a bad time to do a rewire while you're in there.

This was an issue before I installed the FPR.
But I will look into the FPR install after the rail and see what kind of magic happens haha.
My question is, how can a FPR control fuel pressure if it's behind the rail?

And I'm still gonna check the pump because I have always hated how it worked from day one.
And what do you mean rewire everything?

[S14DB]

The FPR keeps the supply line from the pump to the FPR at the set PSI. Your injectors need to be between the Pump and the FPR to be held at pressure.

After the FPR is the return line. Any pressure in this line is just from the resistance of the return line. The stock rail mount FPR's hose connection is the return. The line directly into the rail is the supply.

Maybe I missed it but, What FPR and gauge are you using? Remote or Rail mount?

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The FPR keeps the supply line from the pump to the FPR at the set PSI. Your injectors need to be between the Pump and the FPR to be held at pressure.

After the FPR is the return line. Any pressure in this line is just from the resistance of the return line. The stock rail mount FPR's hose connection is the return. The line directly into the rail is the supply.

Maybe I missed it but, What FPR and gauge are you using? Remote or Rail mount?

I see.
I'm using an FPR with a mounted gauge on it.
Not sure what kind that is.

[roboticnissan]

Basicly your regulating the fuel coming into your fuel rail. You need to regulating the fuel trying to get out.

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by roboticnissan

Basicly your regulating the fuel coming into your fuel rail. You need to regulating the fuel trying to get out.

I see, I will try to see if that will fix my problem, I just placed the FPR on the return line instead of the fuel feed line.
I was about to start the car but right when I was about to, I remembered my batter died
So I gotta wait till 5 for a car to come to my house so I can jump start it and hope that it runs!

[Tantwoforty]

sounds like the fpr is giving you alot of shit.
is it a cheapo ebay one?
maybe bypass it for now and see what the car dose?
run over timing and check spark right quick aswell just for kicks.
good luck, i have almost the same setup

[lilrussian]

Originally Posted by Tantwoforty

sounds like the fpr is giving you alot of shit.
is it a cheapo ebay one?
maybe bypass it for now and see what the car dose?
run over timing and check spark right quick aswell just for kicks.
good luck, i have almost the same setup

it's cheap but was free.
The stock FPR is what was causing the problem and is why I installed the aftermarket one.

I placed the FPR behind the fuel rail and now the car stays on but I STILL have no PSI of fuel :/
Is there a special way to tune these things?
I hate this and need my car running already -__-

[Tantwoforty]

the stock one gave you problums?
thats odd
well, if you think the FPR is good then i would move to your fuel pump
another thing you COULD do, although its kind of a pain if yo dont already have one.
go to autoone or whatever and get a little pressure gauge and rig up 2 barb fittings to it and put that before the FPR and check the raw un regulated pressure comming off the 255.
the walbro could be bad.
or
the fpr could be bad.
it looks like its one of the two.

[codyace]

Take the feed line off, put it into a gas can or large container, and have a friend key it to on to prime the pump...see if anything comes out. If it doesn't or is very weak (figure a prime cycle would fill a solo cup about half way for comparsion sake) and come out at a pretty good rate.

However if the car runs (are you able to free rev it and it won't shut off) I'd look into the gauge being faulty as well. I personally like putting my fuel pressure gauges before the rail. May want to try another gauge?

NOW if that still doesn't show anything... f it doesn't, I'd look at the pump and or the wiring to the pump. As before, rewiring the pump may not be a bad idea at this point.