Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

CATCO makes a bolt on 3" high flow cat. Has a heat shield and looks close enough to OEM to pass the visual part.

i run one of these and have done for 7 odd years now! worth every penny

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Recommendations for stock s14 ka24de air filter besides oem nissan?

Straight OEM: K&N direct replacement panel style filter

Remove airboxes, fit directly on MAF with adapter, etc: Any cone, HKS, Apexi, Injen, all the way to Pilot or whatever at AutoZone. Me, I'd go HKS, or Injen because they are easy to fit on available adapters.

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Straight OEM: K&N direct replacement panel style filter

Remove airboxes, fit directly on MAF with adapter, etc: Any cone, HKS, Apexi, Injen, all the way to Pilot or whatever at AutoZone. Me, I'd go HKS, or Injen because they are easy to fit on available adapters.

damn $50?! rather go OEM NISSAN if that's what it costs LOL.

trying to keep the stock air box bruh.

[[240sx]]

^^ Dude, It's a paper filter for a stock KA, who gives a shit. [emoji23]

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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

damn $50?! rather go OEM NISSAN if that's what it costs LOL.

trying to keep the stock air box bruh.

That $50 is getting you a better filter, that has a million mile life on it. Barring heavy dust, you only need to maintain it when you change your oil, or every 10k miles. I put one on my truck in 2004, and with minimal maintenance, it is still fine. You'll spend that $50 on paper filters pretty fast too

[VTEC_lol]

Does anyone have info on autogauge widebands? Are they any good for accurate readings? I have one installed by previous owner but it shows very odd readings because the lambda might be bad.
Should I buy a new 4.9 lsu lambda or completely new wideband if it sucks?
E: more specifically it's smoke series

[S-Nation S13]

So apparently I assumed that the test pipe I got would allow me to mount up my AEM wide band... and unfortunately I assumed incorrectly. The wide band bung is incorrect. So my question is, is there any test pipe out there what allows me to use me AEM wideband without any modification? Or am I stuck with chopping the bung off and welding the correct threadings? (Bought the AEM off of my friend so I need to source the weld on bung.)


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[jaysgottaredtop]

^ I'd strongly suggest welding in a bung on the downpipe. Ideally, you want as few flex sections and gasketed flanges as possible between the engine and the wideband. Any exhaust leak can siphon clean air into the exhaust system and skew your wideband readings. If you put your sensor in your test pipe, you're placing it after yet another flange that could leak.

[Bail$]

KA-t kit home made I need a list of parts to collect w/o internal mods. I have oil cooler and t3-t4 turbo need help with tuning recommendations thanks

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

^ I'd strongly suggest welding in a bung on the downpipe. Ideally, you want as few flex sections and gasketed flanges as possible between the engine and the wideband. Any exhaust leak can siphon clean air into the exhaust system and skew your wideband readings. If you put your sensor in your test pipe, you're placing it after yet another flange that could leak.

Well said, I was just thinking about that as well. lol I'm probably if not already leaking from the test pipe flanges always scraping it on speed bumps.


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[Hoffman5982]

Who has experience with the wiring for the ac system on 89-90 s13's? Everything I find is for 91+ The fsm schematic is very vague. My system is charged and when I manually kick the compressor on, it cools. I KNOW the 6 pin relay is getting power, ground, and has continuity to to the compressor. I also know it isn't the pressure switch. I've found a wire coming from the control unit that switches when I engage/disengage ac, although it gives power(cant remember if 5v or 12v now after a few beers) when it's disengaged on the unit and no power when engaged. I'm pretty sure the issue is between the unit and the relay, I just haven't been able to pinpoint what wire exact to look for. I live in FL and I sweat easily. Help me.

[VTEC_lol]

What do I need to widen front track width? I know at least lower control arms but do I _need_ stuff like inner tie rods and or ends? Plus how much can I "push out" my front wheel with these arms?
I already have 10mm spacers to clear my calipers so "more" spacers is not an option.

[Hoffman5982]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

What do I need to widen front track width? I know at least lower control arms but do I _need_ stuff like inner tie rods and or ends? Plus how much can I "push out" my front wheel with these arms?
I already have 10mm spacers to clear my calipers so "more" spacers is not an option.

Why do you want to widen your track? Just looks? You can run s14 flca's and s14/i30 tie rods. You'll need to press s13 ball joint into the flca's if you aren't running s14 knuckles too. You could also run these: https://www.gktech-usa.com/s13-240sx...ction-kit.html

Which will push the wheel out about the same amount as s14 flca's and give you more angle. Keep in mind these are all pushing out the bottom of the wheel. If you're trying to make up for bad offset wheels spacers are really the only option, unless you want to use a combination of what's listed above and these to push the top of the wheel out too:
https://www.gktech-usa.com/s-chassis...trut-tops.html

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by Hoffman5982

Why do you want to widen your track? Just looks? You can run s14 flca's and s14/i30 tie rods. You'll need to press s13 ball joint into the flca's if you aren't running s14 knuckles too. You could also run these: https://www.gktech-usa.com/s13-240sx...ction-kit.html

Which will push the wheel out about the same amount as s14 flca's and give you more angle. Keep in mind these are all pushing out the bottom of the wheel. If you're trying to make up for bad offset wheels spacers are really the only option, unless you want to use a combination of what's listed above and these to push the top of the wheel out too:
https://www.gktech-usa.com/s-chassis...trut-tops.html

Looks yeah, my front wheels have more positive offset than my rear wheels so my rears are -2.4 degrees camber and fronts are -0.2 so I don't like the way it looks. Then again I don't know if it's worth to buy all these arms just to push the wheels out like 10mm, gotta think

Fronts are 18x9 et20 and rears 18x10 et25 so I'm trying to match the front wheels camber/offset by doing this, so it would only need to push out a few millimeters

[Hoffman5982]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

Looks yeah, my front wheels have more positive offset than my rear wheels so my rears are -2.4 degrees camber and fronts are -0.2 so I don't like the way it looks. Then again I don't know if it's worth to buy all these arms just to push the wheels out like 10mm, gotta think

Fronts are 18x9 et20 and rears 18x10 et25 so I'm trying to match the front wheels camber/offset by doing this, so it would only need to push out a few millimeters

Why not get some 25mm bolt on spacers?

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by Hoffman5982

Why not get some 25mm bolt on spacers?

I thought about it but doesn't 25mm spacers kill bearings fast? Or so I've heard, plus I was thinking about buying the control arms maybe sooner or later, that's why I thought about asking what else I need to buy :d
Edit: forgot to mention my car is indeed S14a and I have D2 coilovers so I can adjust the camber on top but not too much really, if it can get to - 2.3 degrees then I'd be happy

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

I thought about it but doesn't 25mm spacers kill bearings fast? Or so I've heard, plus I was thinking about buying the control arms maybe sooner or later, that's why I thought about asking what else I need to buy :d

Won't kill the bearings any faster than low offset wheels. A 17x9 +30 with a 25mm spacer is effectively exactly the same as a 17x9 +5 offset wheel.

[Jrod12]

Originally Posted by rebornS14

i would replace the ecu coolant temp sensor and check for vacuum leaks.

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

I'm at a wits end here, and any help would be appreciated. I've got a 95 OBD1 Zenki that's running shit. When started, it'll idle at 800-900, then drop to 600. Tapping throttle will pop idle back up and it'll stay at 800-900. Adding throttle, it will bog 200-300 rpm, then slowly raise. Car has noticeably less power driving, backfires like crazy, and is very stuttery. So far I've cleaned the MAF, changed Air and Fuel filters, changed spark plugs, changed fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, checked TPS, and replaced the knock sensor (the only code I've thrown was knock sensor and mine was cracked). I've gotten nowhere, and I don't know what else to check.

Hello, I am having the same problems my 1993 KA24DE hatch. My car does not however back fire but does seem to be slow to get on power and will idle at the 800-900 range when I first start it but as I start driving and the car warms up it revs drop down to 500 when idling at a stop light. the car has shut off on me a few times but doesn’t always shut off it will just struggle in the 200-300 range and will start right back up no problems I have cleaned the MAF, replaced fuel filter and coolant temp sensor I have included a video of me below at a stop light if anybody can shine in some light on this problem for me i would greatly appreciate it

https://youtu.be/

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Jrod12

Hello, I am having the same problems my 1993 KA24DE hatch. My car does not however back fire but does seem to be slow to get on power and will idle at the 800-900 range when I first start it but as I start driving and the car warms up it revs drop down to 500 when idling at a stop light. the car has shut off on me a few times but doesn’t always shut off it will just struggle in the 200-300 range and will start right back up no problems I have cleaned the MAF, replaced fuel filter and coolant temp sensor I have included a video of me below at a stop light if anybody can shine in some light on this problem for me i would greatly appreciate it

https://youtu.be/

Timing is off about a tooth. The down on power part, shitty idle, backfire, AND stutter is the tell. Make sure your TDC is TDC or you gonna bend valve and , well go through what I did...spend more than just rebuilding head, car will be down two years, bank account will empty because oh, well it's on stands, I should get this part, oooohhhh cool, need one of those too, smmfh, two years later and now it's running, but waiting for steering rack rebuild at my friend's shop...but it RUNS!

[PatPs13]

Whats the best way to go about painting my interior? Current plan is to flap wheel the whole interior, spray 2k primer, sand the primer even to hide blemishes from the flap wheel and then spray 2k paint over the primer. Will this be decent looking and fairly durable?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

Whats the best way to go about painting my interior? Current plan is to flap wheel the whole interior, spray 2k primer, sand the primer even to hide blemishes from the flap wheel and then spray 2k paint over the primer. Will this be decent looking and fairly durable?

Think of interior paint like exterior paint. How durable do you want?
Filler primer, say maybe 3 - 4 coats, and then at least give it a good cleaning and a bit of tack, then paint about 8 coats of your exterior or contrast color paint. Put in some gucci metal or 'glass covers made by the storefront guys here, seats, dress as you like and go race.

[1on1]

I am in a rut of either going gt2871r or s15 spec r turbo. However, I know my clutch is basic at this moment so I need recommendations for a clutch kit + flywheel. I've been thinking about the ORC 409 clutch since it's all in one unit but I would like other peoples' opinions about clutch/flywheel options.

Keep in mind, I only have a stock S13 SR20DET and I plan to upgrade the turbo over the next few months.

[derass]

Much much power do you want to make? ie. how much money do you want to spend?

You can make 300 whp bone stock with 550 injectors. For this the S15 turbo and Exedy Stage 2 would be my pick.

300-400 whp (might as well go for 400) requires the 2871R, 740 injectors, cams, metal hg, studs and GReddy IM (optional). An Exedy Hyper Single or ACT 6-puck would be my clutch choice.

[1on1]

My power goals is between 300-350. I guess to make it clear which clutch would be recommended for s15 turbo and gt2871r.

[jaysgottaredtop]

I used Competition Stage 4 clutches on my S15 and 2871 setups. A couple sprung, one unsprung. Loved those things. Nice stiff pedal feel, grabbed like a sonofabitch.

[Crazyced]

Anyone ever had that problem? For a while, my driver door would lock itself every time I closed it.

[Crazyced]

Are OEM teardrop rims known to overheat the brakes when used aggressively (lapping, autocross)?

[1on1]

^Not sure but I know SPL sells brake deflectors to guide air to the brakes.

http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...2-r33-r34.html

Note: Installs with our SPL v2 or v3 tension rods only, not compatible with any other tension rods. Designed for use with 17” or larger wheels, may require trimming for smaller wheels.

[ADIDASilvias]

Originally Posted by ADIDASilvias

So I have some Enjuku rewards points and was looking for something to buy to use them. I still have a few things to get while I am doing this here swap thingamajigger.

I was looking at the Chase Bays In-bay Brake Line relocation kit, and the reviews suggest that while it is well made, it is not long enough to actually run under the engine/tranny like they suggest. That's a no-go for me since the main reason I want to tuck them is to get the hard lines off the firewall. Every plastic clip is either broken or just looks shitty, plus bending the lines around to mate to the Z32 master cylinder left them looking sort of wonky. Structurally they are fine, but they just don't look right. It would also free up the area around the MC for the downpipe off the top mount turbo.

So I started looking into building my own and put together a list from anplumbing. I have attached a screenshot of my shopping cart. Can someone take a look and let me know if I am missing anything? I'm pretty sure I have everything needed, but wouldn't want to overlook something stupid. I think 15 feet of PTFE hose will be enough, but haven't actually pulled a tape in the engine bay to confirm. I'd honestly rather have more than I need.

Oh, the Z32 master has the 3rd fitting cone seat installed so the S14 hard lines would match.

Originally Posted by souljaseth33

I have this kit, and used it in my s13. It worked well and I was able to run it down, and along my sub-frame under the engine.

Good to know, thanks. I would assume then that the slight increase in track width of the S14 would not pose too much of an issue with the line length? I can't see 1.5 inches being a make it or break it situation.

Maybe the reviews I came across were early versions and the length has been adjusted since then?

[1on1]

Anyone know anybody running either of these manifolds on an sr20det? If you have a video link, please let me know!

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u100101405 (Octopus manifold)
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n219542358 (Long manifold)