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Old 12-19-2018, 04:27 AM   #151
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Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
Very awesome work. Making it look so easy, and proper.
thanks man!! I think as i get older and gain experience/knowledge, things start to beome easier to accomplish!

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Originally Posted by CamryOnBronze View Post
Awesome progress- nice job!
Thanks dude! excited to see how your coupe comes together as well!!

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Great work my man! You've made some serious progress on this thing!
Thanks man! Given the amount of daylight and nice(r) days on the weekends i've slammed some stuff out.

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I've been following you on GarageJournal.com and I love the work you put in. Can't wait to see this on the road!
thank you!! that forum is awesome!! everyone on here, or that has a car and small garage should join. TONS and TONS of info and ideas from others to share!!

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Man you're doing a great job bro. When I did my RHD conversion years ago there wasn't much info and I just went for it. You'll learn real quick how the usdm and jdm wiring is so similar. I did exactly what you did and I flipped my usdm body harness upside down. Here's a tip...when you're doing the wiring for the turn signals the only thing I did was I matched all the wires to the jdm turn signals steering column controls. The thing is when you wire the turn signals that way color for color your turn signal indicators will contradict eachother lol. If I remember correctly when you turn the turn signal switch to the left your cluster indicator will blink right but the signal lights will blink correctly. Then when you switch to the turn signal to the right it'll make the cluster indicator blink left, but again the signal lights will blink correctly.

Here's the trick! Everyone is going to think you have to extend the turn signal wires from the right side to the left and vice versa. Honestly, that's to much damn work. When I did mine the only thing I did was switch the turn signal wires at the gauge cluster. Sounds way to simple right? Well in all seriousness that's all that needed to be done because everything works from the cluster. If I remember correctly the LH turn signal wire color is Green/black and the RH turn signal wire color is Green/Yellow. What I did was unpin those two wires and then switch them around. So the Green/black goes into the Green/yellow's spot and the Green/yellow goes into the Green/black's spot. You'll find these wires in the Center White plug that goes into the cluster. After I did that everything worked perfectly. You can reference cluster wiring colors with the NX1600 cluster swap wiring diagram. Lots of information there for 240sx cluster wire colors.

This thread brought back a ton of memories! If you have any questions at all let me know bro.
thank you soooo much for the info!! i think im going to utilize the JDM harness since it has those extra buttons specifically for the silvia's lights/other functions. the silvia wiring book that i bought, does have wire colors in it, and just seeing some for the lights and whatnot, they do match up for the most part.

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...Or you could have read the last page
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looking good! my roommate has a eastwood 250 and its great for what he got it for. we recently braced my IS subframe with it. something about doing stuff like this yourself is so satisfying.

cant wait to see more!
everyone seems to gripe about if a certain welder isnt one of the big 3 brands. i can say that compared to the Lincoln it does what they are both designed to for, WELDING.. i can see if the larger ones need heavy duty special equipment inside. they are close enough that if i need warranty work, i can throw it in the car and drive it there, instead of shipping it back..


I did stop by a small paint supply shop the other day and pick up some seam sealer/undercoating. i will probably go back and get a tube of 2 part seam sealer as well for where some of the corners meet..

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Old 12-19-2018, 10:18 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by Super_OK_S13 View Post

thank you soooo much for the info!! i think im going to utilize the JDM harness since it has those extra buttons specifically for the silvia's lights/other functions. the silvia wiring book that i bought, does have wire colors in it, and just seeing some for the lights and whatnot, they do match up for the most part.



everyone seems to gripe about if a certain welder isnt one of the big 3 brands. i can say that compared to the Lincoln it does what they are both designed to for, WELDING.. i can see if the larger ones need heavy duty special equipment inside. they are close enough that if i need warranty work, i can throw it in the car and drive it there, instead of shipping it back..


I did stop by a small paint supply shop the other day and pick up some seam sealer/undercoating. i will probably go back and get a tube of 2 part seam sealer as well for where some of the corners meet..

Sounds good man. Yea most of the colors match the most part but there are a couple that differ, but it's nothing crazy. Did your clip include the back portion of the body harness or was it cut off? Only reason I ask is that I tried to splice the jdm one to the back portion of my original usdm one and I couldn't get things to work. I ended up getting a new body harness from a pick n pull.

I think the the eastwood welder are great for a hobbyist. I started with an eastwood tig 200 and upgraded to an ahp alphatig 200. I loved both machines.

For the seam sealer I brushed all of mine on when it was my final/top coat. I tried to match how it was done in the factory.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:03 PM   #153
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Any updates?
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:46 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k00laid83 View Post
Sounds good man. Yea most of the colors match the most part but there are a couple that differ, but it's nothing crazy. Did your clip include the back portion of the body harness or was it cut off? Only reason I ask is that I tried to splice the jdm one to the back portion of my original usdm one and I couldn't get things to work. I ended up getting a new body harness from a pick n pull.

I think the the eastwood welder are great for a hobbyist. I started with an eastwood tig 200 and upgraded to an ahp alphatig 200. I loved both machines.

For the seam sealer I brushed all of mine on when it was my final/top coat. I tried to match how it was done in the factory.
If you click a picture to take you to my flickr photostream, i have a picture (dsc_8024) that shows the rear section. UNCUT all plugs are on the harness! I feel lucky to have that, as you said most are cut to the rear.


I did make some more progress, I've just been busy with the house interior remodeling and the holidays, to make a post about it. So, HERE GOES!!!

I had a couple days to lay some of the seam sealer down.



First wire brushed and sprayed some sealer/primer over the areas that were bare metal.


since its the wheel well, i just smeared it on all over where the panels were welded and very liberally as to seal it as best i could.


Pretty much the last big welding task was to swap the hand-brake bracket to the other side of the trans tunnel.

Started by drilling out the spot welds.




After i trimmed the bracket, I bolted the bracket to the hand-brake, set the center console on the dash/over the hand-brake, and made marks about where the bracket should be tacked.



I skipped the process during welding/pictures, but after the bracket was positioned and welded, This morning, i wire brushed it and threw some primer on this morning and taking pics.

It snowed a little bit this past weekend. The G35X is stupid in the snow. I hate it (and all the electronic bullshit assists ) and I think i want a Kouki to daily and maybe another D21 pickup to get supplies for the house and what not...







welds are probably over kill but i know if i add something like a small extender piece on the handle i know it can hold yanking it!!

This is how it sits right now.




All thats really left is more seam sealer on the interior side, filling in spots on the firewall/cowl seams with the welder, more seam sealer, and wait till the weather breaks to start body work and re-finish the engine bay.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

**SUPER**EXTRA**

After reading TSSS22 build. I PM'd about some special parts that were re-designed. hopefully they will hold up (I think they will) since the bearings will take the load instead of the plastic wearing out like from factory.



My Uncle that lives in New Hampshire has a 3D Printer and he printed this for me in 2 different fill %. One is 15% which is VERY light and i don't think it'll handle the heat nor have the strength for the loads to stay put and break/wear out. But the other pair is 50% infill and SIGNIFICANTLY stronger/solid.



Ordered the bearings it was designed around and they were a perfect press fit. I was suprised on the hold and shape/tolerances on the PLA.

Rubber sealed ball bearings to keep the water and dust out the best it can.


Also picked up some stainless hardware for them. M6-1.0-16mm long seemed to be the best length without cutting to length. I'll probably put some jb weld/epoxy on 2 sides of the bolt heads before i assemble them so they don't rotate/strip the hex out in the mounts.



heres the link for the mount on thinsverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2961561

link for the bearings i used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All the credit for design goes to TSSS22.
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:55 PM   #155
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Very cool stuff!

I'm curious, did you happen to notice if the e-brake assemblies are identical between LHD and RHD? Everything I have seen has led me to believe they are, they just changed the mounting position on the chassis itself. I have been studying photos but can't tell for sure. Just wondered if you happened to notice this or not.
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Old 01-14-2019, 03:38 PM   #156
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Very cool stuff!

I'm curious, did you happen to notice if the e-brake assemblies are identical between LHD and RHD? Everything I have seen has led me to believe they are, they just changed the mounting position on the chassis itself. I have been studying photos but can't tell for sure. Just wondered if you happened to notice this or not.
The only thing i noticed is they did stamp different shaped brackets when the chassis were built for whatever market they were meant for. The actual mounting bracket attached to the handle is the same on both and the length of the cable where it then connects under the car is the same. I didnt see anything specific in the body diagram they use to repair vehicles according to the nissan FSM Body Repair Manual.

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Old 01-15-2019, 08:38 AM   #157
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Cool, that's what I thought! They had different part numbers so that made me wonder. Thanks for the info sir- love the progress!
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:17 AM   #158
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Hey, nice work man
Thanks for trying my design, when you start using them please share your experience with us, maybe leave a comment on Thingiverse. If you saw my build, you know I can't test it now
Anyway the PLA has low heat resistance so if it softens or start deforming, maybe try ABS or NYLON.
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Old 01-20-2019, 03:06 PM   #159
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Awesome build man, love the creativity!
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:33 PM   #160
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effing crazy. so if I used the 3m body panel cement, do I need that seam sealer? like this for example?





do these spots need that sealer?













I then sprayed primer on it


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Old 02-17-2019, 05:45 PM   #161
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Hey, nice work man
Thanks for trying my design, when you start using them please share your experience with us, maybe leave a comment on Thingiverse. If you saw my build, you know I can't test it now
Anyway the PLA has low heat resistance so if it softens or start deforming, maybe try ABS or NYLON.
Thanks! I wanted the part made in nylon, since that is what factory looked like. But my uncle's printer is set up for pla right now. I will definetly share when the wipers are functional!!

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Awesome build man, love the creativity!
thanks!

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effing crazy. so if I used the 3m body panel cement, do I need that seam sealer? like this for example?
do these spots need that sealer?
I then sprayed primer on it
Hope it all worked out for you!!!


little update.

It's been pretty cold in PA/north east in late Jan/early Feb. so, I haven't been outside in the garage other than to fire up the snow blower or do a quick small job for on some friends cars.. Found a good deal on an RSX *base model* a friend was selling and since my girl was looking for a new car, we test drove it and pretty much ended up with it ASAP.. It has solid engine mounts , custom intake, dc sports header, some kind of exhaust,(it's too loud, and that shows my age ) godspeed coilovers, type-s wheels/spoiler, new exedy clutch and new tires.





I ended up getting rid of that wood stove, found time and a warm(er) day and piped in that forced hot air furnace that was beside the compressor. I got a couple gallons of diesel and fired it up on a 20* day. Surprisingly enough, it warmed up the garage (25x40x10ft ceiling) with open rafters and WELL vented at the ridge vent/sides to about 45-50* in about an hour of it turning the blower fan on/off, with no thermostat and just blowing out of the top of the furnace/no plenum to direct the air. I'll be getting foam board for a ceiling this week, and build/buy a new plenum to sit on top and direct air to where i need it to blow. Having a ceiling will help heat loss SIGNIFICANTLY, eventually ill add some blow-in insulation on top.



Anyway.... I did some work on the car and it's pretty much onto the next step of re-finishing the bay since the firewall is completely welded in place, and just needs sealed up. sprayed a little primer on to prevent surface rust.





I'll be smoothing out the sections of old seam sealer, and making the sections where the fender/tube front bolts to more presentable.

Removing the seam sealer and cleaning up for more welding.



Hopefully another update soon!!

-Jimmy
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:46 PM   #162
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Keep us posted on the printed wiper pivot results. I just don't think the PLA will survive the engine bay heat. PLA has been known to deform if it's used even for something in the interior like a shift knob. ABS is the recommended automotive plastic material.

Congrats on the RSX! The Honda K series engines are incredible. You know Honda is doing something right when a 2liter Honda engine makes as much horsepower naturally aspirated as a 2liter Nissan does with a turbo!
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:04 AM   #163
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I used some seam sealer in my bay, and its almost impossible to make it look "great". Its so fucking spongey and flexible. My tubs in my bay are done with bondo, it takes tons of time, but the smooth finish is worth it. You'll thank me later.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:05 AM   #164
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in for ceiling updates! my garage needs the same
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:28 AM   #165
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Keep us posted on the printed wiper pivot results. I just don't think the PLA will survive the engine bay heat. PLA has been known to deform if it's used even for something in the interior like a shift knob. ABS is the recommended automotive plastic material.

Congrats on the RSX! The Honda K series engines are incredible. You know Honda is doing something right when a 2liter Honda engine makes as much horsepower naturally aspirated as a 2liter Nissan does with a turbo!
The RSX has been awesome for her so far, she really loves it. Kind of wants to mod it here and there eventually. but overall even on the coils and solid engine mounts its an amazing daily!!

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I used some seam sealer in my bay, and its almost impossible to make it look "great". Its so fucking spongey and flexible. My tubs in my bay are done with bondo, it takes tons of time, but the smooth finish is worth it. You'll thank me later.
i think i'll use seam seaer only in the areas not really visible, but still want that factory look. plus this time around ill have some experience/help from a friend in the industry.

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in for ceiling updates! my garage needs the same
I completed the ceiling. i used, 1/2" poly iso foam board. i paid 6.50$ a sheet!!! (vs home depot/lowes- $13.50ish) i got it from a surplus supplier near me.. All thats left is to foil tape the seams. It made the garage feel a little smaller and i now have 2 dark spots around the middle of the back wall which dont show up well in the picture but to the right of the Japanese flag and left of PLANK. i will be getting some 8ft led lights from amazon most likely, to add more light to the garage.

IMG_20190312_1920215-panorama by Jimmy Acri II, on Flickr
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