Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Wake]

Suggested for what dude?

Come on, this isnt the "read my mind and tell me what my car should look like thread".

[GL Chrillz]

my drivers side control arm bolt that goes thru the metal sleeve on the bushing is seized to the sleeve to where it moves the whole control arm if i try to take the bolt out. i cant hit it out with a hammer because the steering rack is there. how should i get it out?

[Jonathong]

So, im awaiting my clear headlight covers for my zenki s14, which seal is the best to use to seal it back up?

[niscur29]

Originally Posted by lightsource

Suggested size spacers for Work VS-XX +35mm, 17x8Fr, 17x9Rr
on a S13 Hatback?

Thank you

Depends what you are going for...I went for some beef for tires so Im running 17x8 +25 235/40/17 and 17x9 + 25 255/40/17 with no spacers and it sits flush with the outside of the body with rolled fenders all around. Im not slammed either. But search the two wheel threads man theres plenty of info in there.

[Wake]

How did that help at all?

he meant to say if you use the same specs and a 10 mil spacer, your car will look like his. Which he didnt post any pics of so you still dont know what it looks like.

[new dood s13]

Ok so i have a random stupid question.. Im new to the nissan scene ive always been a mustang guy but got tired of being beat by tuner cars so i sold the mustang bought a rb25 drop out from a local jdm dealer and bought a s13 hatch. A nyways im building this for drag racing In the bottom end of the rb im going to run the stock crank with the larger snout and i have crowler rods my question is what pistons should i go with and what bore should i go with?

[Origin]

Originally Posted by Otto347

I would imagine in/lb and not ft/lb, you need a torque wrench to measure inch or foot pounds.

Maybe you're right, I can;t find it in the FSM anymore. But the point being at 45 lbs. it would have snapped in a vice or whatever. Since 45 in/lb equals somewhere around 4 ft/lbs that shouldn't be a problem but still feels too little.

[Prime]

Originally Posted by Origin

Maybe you're right, I can;t find it in the FSM anymore. But the point being at 45 lbs. it would have snapped in a vice or whatever. Since 45 in/lb equals somewhere around 4 ft/lbs that shouldn't be a problem but still feels too little.

I'm doing the same thing at the moment. It's 29-43 ft/lbs. As for the shims, I have no idea. FSM doesn't call for them, but I'm going to measure what's going in versus whats coming out, and if there is gap I'm shimming.

[SLiDe_WaYz]

I switched from the Greddy manifold which has tons of nipples for vacuum sources to the stock one since I'm not going to be making 350+ hp.

So:
Wastegate - Weld on nipple on hot pipe.
BOV - bottom of throttle body
FPR - top nipple to the right on the TB.
Boost Gauge - ??? to Last vacuum source on manifold which would be right above the TB on the left.
Is this correct ? The GReddy manifold makes it so much damn simpler.
I was told earlier today that I should T off a fitting on the manifold above the TB for the boost gauge and wastegate, but personally im not into T'ing anything off.

[WERDdabuilder]

kouki 180sx Type X front bumper Cover side extensions/Chuki bumper side extensions same shit?

[harrypotter]

Upgrading to GT2871R on redtop in s13. I looked at the inlet/outlet adapters for the hotpipe. I think they look ugly as fudge! Anyone have a good solution for hotpipe? Maybe I can use a s14 hotpipe, but hoping a company sells a fmic for that configuration.

[lg54]

WHAT MOTOR PARTS ARE NEEDED FOR A MOTOR REFRESH?? ex: head gasket, water pump etc???

[Wake]

Originally Posted by WERDdabuilder

kouki 180sx Type X front bumper Cover side extensions/Chuki bumper side extensions same shit?

No

Originally Posted by harrypotter

Upgrading to GT2871R on redtop in s13. I looked at the inlet/outlet adapters for the hotpipe. I think they look ugly as fudge! Anyone have a good solution for hotpipe? Maybe I can use a s14 hotpipe, but hoping a company sells a fmic for that configuration.

What exactly is your question?

Originally Posted by lg54

WHAT MOTOR PARTS ARE NEEDED FOR A MOTOR REFRESH?? ex: head gasket, water pump etc???

Full gasket kit is only $100 something bucks, do it.
and add water pump, timing chain, and get all your valves properly adjusted or replaced to stock spec.

[lightsource]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Suggested for what dude?

Come on, this isnt the "read my mind and tell me what my car should look like thread".

Isn't it? I want a flush look, rolling fenders, no pull (1-5mm max), just want a subtle tuck and don't want the wheels sticking out or in too far. Thinking of running 225/45/17 FR 235/45/17 RR

Wont be slamming the vehicle, just want it to look nice. Is that specific enough?

[GL Chrillz]

how to get a control arm bolt out thats seized to the bushing sleeve?

[Origin]

Originally Posted by Prime

I'm doing the same thing at the moment. It's 29-43 ft/lbs. As for the shims, I have no idea. FSM doesn't call for them, but I'm going to measure what's going in versus whats coming out, and if there is gap I'm shimming.

How are you going to measure if it needs a shim or not?

And how on Earth are you going to tighten that down?

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

I switched from the Greddy manifold which has tons of nipples for vacuum sources to the stock one since I'm not going to be making 350+ hp.

So:
Wastegate - Weld on nipple on hot pipe.
BOV - bottom of throttle body
FPR - top nipple to the right on the TB.
Boost Gauge - ??? to Last vacuum source on manifold which would be right above the TB on the left.
Is this correct ? The GReddy manifold makes it so much damn simpler.
I was told earlier today that I should T off a fitting on the manifold above the TB for the boost gauge and wastegate, but personally im not into T'ing anything off.

This stuff is old news dude. Unless you're going to be putting more nipples on the hotpipe or running some kind of vacuum block, you're going to have to T.

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

how to get a control arm bolt out thats seized to the bushing sleeve?

Have you taken the wierd washers out yet? If you have, you can try any of the penetraters (pb plaster, liquid wrench, aero kroil to name a few) on the bolt/sleeve. When I was doing my rear upper control arms, I eventually had to saw mine off because the penetraters didn't work for me. I didn't need the eccentric bolts anymore and went with lockout bolts from SPL. Otherwise you may need to buy new eccentric bolts from nissan if you have to cut them off.

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by VNG704

Have you taken the wierd washers out yet? If you have, you can try any of the penetraters (pb plaster, liquid wrench, aero kroil to name a few) on the bolt/sleeve. When I was doing my rear upper control arms, I eventually had to saw mine off because the penetraters didn't work for me. I didn't need the eccentric bolts anymore and went with lockout bolts from SPL. Otherwise you may need to buy new eccentric bolts from nissan if you have to cut them off.

I've used pb blaster multiple times, it doesn't seem to penetrate into the sleeve. I was actually looking at the lockout kit. Does it come with bolts for front and rear arms? Because I'm doing the rear arm bushings and subframe risers next. Also, when I take the rear arm off, can I re use the ball joint as long as i don't damage it? The previous owner replaced them so they're fairly new.

[EsChassisLove]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

I switched from the Greddy manifold which has tons of nipples for vacuum sources to the stock one since I'm not going to be making 350+ hp.

So:
Wastegate - Weld on nipple on hot pipe.
BOV - bottom of throttle body
FPR - top nipple to the right on the TB.
Boost Gauge - ??? to Last vacuum source on manifold which would be right above the TB on the left.
Is this correct ? The GReddy manifold makes it so much damn simpler.
I was told earlier today that I should T off a fitting on the manifold above the TB for the boost gauge and wastegate, but personally im not into T'ing anything off.

Get a vaccuum box. They are dope

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

I've used pb blaster multiple times, it doesn't seem to penetrate into the sleeve. I was actually looking at the lockout kit. Does it come with bolts for front and rear arms? Because I'm doing the rear arm bushings and subframe risers next. Also, when I take the rear arm off, can I re use the ball joint as long as i don't damage it? The previous owner replaced them so they're fairly new.

You should try to look at their parts from their site. I only ordered the rear set for the toe and camber arms. As far as reusing ball joints, if it's not damaged and it's recently been replaced, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to reuse it.

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by VNG704

You should try to look at their parts from their site. I only ordered the rear set for the toe and camber arms. As far as reusing ball joints, if it's not damaged and it's recently been replaced, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to reuse it.

I'm on their site right now, they only have one eccentric lockout kit. It has 4 bolts, so I'm assuming that's for front and rear? or does the rear have 4 bolts? If that'll work for the front and rear arms I'll order it right now.

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

I'm on their site right now, they only have one eccentric lockout kit. It has 4 bolts, so I'm assuming that's for front and rear? or does the rear have 4 bolts? If that'll work for the front and rear arms I'll order it right now.

Looking at it now.... rear only.

[GL Chrillz]

So is there one for the front or should I just head to nissan for that? And with subframe risers, you need to readjust the coil overs right? I'm looking on ksports website, the tool I need is a spanner wrench, correct?

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

So is there one for the front or should I just head to nissan for that? And with subframe risers, you need to readjust the coil overs right? I'm looking on ksports website, the tool I need is a spanner wrench, correct?

front, not that I know of...Nissan, go for it. I don't have subframe risers, but considering the suspension is on the subframe I would assume so. Maybe someone can chime in. And yes, spanner wrenches are used to adjust coilover height.

[axiomatik]

From what I remember, the FLCA doesn't have any eccentric bolts. You are talking about the bolt that attaches the FLCA to the front subframe, right? Find something that you can use as a punch on the end of the bolt and hammer it out.

[GL Chrillz]

i cut it out with a sawsall, so that part is taken care of. and now that i know there's no eccentric bolts for the front i'll swing by nissan on my way home from class tomorrow. i'll still probably grab the eccentric bolts for the back since they'll be out i might as well put those in. to know how to adjust my coils do i just use a tape measure or what? lolol

[WERDdabuilder]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

No

[Prime]

Originally Posted by Origin

How are you going to measure if it needs a shim or not?

And how on Earth are you going to tighten that down?

Calipers, vise, torque wrench. Haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'll probably finish it up sometime tonight. I've got two of everything, so if I break something I'm not terribly concerned. I just try again.

[sr20sean]

what are those pieces right at the top called that mount it to a bracket and where can i get them? completely slipping my mind right now. i just need to find some so i can weld them to my intercooler and mount it.

[Wake]

here you go^^
weldtab.com