Free Emergency Technical support via blu808

[youngbrazee1]

My car has been sitting for over 9 months when i finally tried to get it running it would turn over(belts moving)like it wanted to but did not, also the windows or cd player will not workb, but my headlights do. i accidently put the negative on the positive on the car battery. i checked my fuses and the FL100A was blown. i read on how to set my cas and it still wont start. and i replace the spark plugs with ngk ones.

Questions
#1.is my ecu fried?
#2.could it be the starter?
#3.where would i get this fuses from(it doesnt even look like a fuse)?
#4.could the fuse FL100A keep my car from not running?
#5.how do i test the spark plugs?

PLEASE HELP ME

[lazysk8er2]

hey whats up i got a lil problem prolly an easy fix im doing the 300zx brake conversion and was up to where i needed to put a flare fitting inside the bmc in the middle fitting (i have the biggest one from a 300tt). well my friend ruined all 3 fittings on my stock bmc trying to cut it out. is there a way i could just buy a flare or do i need to find a whole bmc and cut that out thanks in advance!

[WangonwWarrior]

Originally Posted by blu808

Sounds like you need something to control those injectors. Like a AFC or emanaage, or some baller setup using a standalone.

Yeah i have an safc2 i need to install, but i think the n62 maf i got might be bad. Ill try testing with a voltmeter. and their were no rags stuck in intercoller

[blu808]

youngbrazee1: I have had that happen a few times. Sometimes it just burns out some fuses, other times it wipes out the whole cars electrical system. I would suggest getting a new car. Or at least a new ecu, engine harness, chassis harness. Sorry but it is really a pain in the ass. Also check all the fusable links.

lazysk8er2: It really depends how bad it got messed up. I would really have to see it. Sorry. Maybe post up a picture?

WangonwWarrior: Well you have to consider that the ecu has no idea that you changed the injectors in the first place. I would hook up that AFC and set the correct values.

Let me know guys.
Manji Parts : Home

[blackcoupe]

Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.

[xsublimefrekx]

I have one if you can help. I have a 98 s14 with a ka-t in it and I'm having problems with my speedo. I lowered the car a the harness got screwed up but I fixed that and checked and replaced blown fuses. Now the only thing that doesn't work is the speedo and odometer and I'm stumped on what it can be. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

[Def]

Originally Posted by blackcoupe

Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.

Make sure you still have the nub which presses down on the clutch safety switch.

[blu808]

Cold start wire is not hooked up. On the s13s with s14 srs you need to find the cold start wire and put it to the cranking + signal.

Originally Posted by blackcoupe

Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.

[blu808]

Originally Posted by xsublimefrekx

I have one if you can help. I have a 98 s14 with a ka-t in it and I'm having problems with my speedo. I lowered the car a the harness got screwed up but I fixed that and checked and replaced blown fuses. Now the only thing that doesn't work is the speedo and odometer and I'm stumped on what it can be. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

Did you replace your cluster?

[xsublimefrekx]

no i didnt try that yet, i was hopping it wasnt that. At one point the tach, temp and fuel gauge didnt work and i replaced the fuse and all that came back on. Ill try to replace the cluster

[blu808]

Well the problem with rubbing your harness on the left front wheel is that it can just completely short everything out. You are lucky that those still work at this point. You should try swapping the cluster.

Luke

[bl3ujay07]

I have a problem. Wrote in tech help section, but about two months ago after finish swapping my brothers sr motor (had been sitting for about 5 months) into my shell. It ran perfectly before we stored it (due to college).

After swapping it, and test driving it around the block maybe 4 times (under 2 miles), it started squeeking and then tapping (sound like its coming under the valve cover but not sure). The oil pan is just barely dented where the drain plug is and thats all. I've had people tell me its a rod knock, rod bearing, and/or cam shaft and HLA's because oil pump could be dead.

Tried switching to thicker oil and it got quieter, drained it for a week and added same oil and it got loud again. What do you recommend i do first, new rods, rod bearings, oil pump, or HLA's? If you were closer to 209 area, i would pay for gas and then some you to come check it out.

[Def]

Bang out the oil pan and see how it does. It doesn't take long at all to take it off.

[WangonwWarrior]

Master blu808 i need you again. I installed my SAFC2 and came up with a default setting that i have seen others run and it has smoothed out the revs a little bit but my big problem is whenever i crank the car it idles fine at about 1k rpm then after about 5 sec it slowly dies. I just put a N62 maf on and i triple checked and search and it is installed correctly. But me and a few people think the maf could be bad. Do you think it is the maf or is my BOV causeing this? Thanks -Mike

[90drftsx]

Originally Posted by Def

Bang out the oil pan and see how it does. It doesn't take long at all to take it off.

I tried taking out the oil pan but it was hard as hell. Mallet, flat screwdriver, blade to get in between the oil pan but still wouldnt budge. I dont think it would be the oil pan because it was dented when it was on my brothers car and it ran fine.

Shit, just posted using my brothers accounts. Sorry about that

[blu808]

Well not only do Oem SR pans suck on the track, but if they get even a small dent, they can block the oil pickup tube.

The first sign of oil not circulating through the engine on a sr20det will be the squeeking sound you heard. That is actually coming from the cams. If you have heard that noise and it is now making a tapping sound, then your motor is most likely a paperweight now.

Possible things that can cause oil pressure failure:
Oil Pump broken
Oil pickup broken (common on srs)
Oil pickup blocked
loose oil line
low oil level

Originally Posted by bl3ujay07

I have a problem. Wrote in tech help section, but about two months ago after finish swapping my brothers sr motor (had been sitting for about 5 months) into my shell. It ran perfectly before we stored it (due to college).

After swapping it, and test driving it around the block maybe 4 times (under 2 miles), it started squeeking and then tapping (sound like its coming under the valve cover but not sure). The oil pan is just barely dented where the drain plug is and thats all. I've had people tell me its a rod knock, rod bearing, and/or cam shaft and HLA's because oil pump could be dead.

Tried switching to thicker oil and it got quieter, drained it for a week and added same oil and it got loud again. What do you recommend i do first, new rods, rod bearings, oil pump, or HLA's? If you were closer to 209 area, i would pay for gas and then some you to come check it out.

[blu808]

Originally Posted by WangonwWarrior

Master blu808 i need you again. I installed my SAFC2 and came up with a default setting that i have seen others run and it has smoothed out the revs a little bit but my big problem is whenever i crank the car it idles fine at about 1k rpm then after about 5 sec it slowly dies. I just put a N62 maf on and i triple checked and search and it is installed correctly. But me and a few people think the maf could be bad. Do you think it is the maf or is my BOV causeing this? Thanks -Mike

On the setup page where it says in1 out1 what do you have it set too?

Try setting it to in5 out1

[blu808]

It only takes about an hour using jackstands.

Steps.

Put car up on jack stands using proper lifting points.

Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the pan on.

Break the seal using either a putty knife, screw driver, and a rubber mallet.

Romove oil pan

place oil pan on sand bag, and beat the dent out.

Check the condition of the oil pickup to ensure its not clogged up with rtv.

Remove all RTV from upper oil pan and lower oil pan. take your time do it all.

Reapply a minimum amount of rtv to the oil pan. (i see sr's blow all the time bc of too much rtv getting stuck in the oil pickup.

Reinstall oil pan, and enjoy!

If it still makes noise and is not leaking you should replace the oil pump and oil pump drive gear.

I suspect that you have caused terminal damage to your engine at this point though.

Originally Posted by 90drftsx

I tried taking out the oil pan but it was hard as hell. Mallet, flat screwdriver, blade to get in between the oil pan but still wouldnt budge. I dont think it would be the oil pan because it was dented when it was on my brothers car and it ran fine.

Shit, just posted using my brothers accounts. Sorry about that

[WangonwWarrior]

Originally Posted by blu808

On the setup page where it says in1 out1 what do you have it set too?

Try setting it to in5 out1

Everyone says to run 2 in and 5 out but their is another setting page asking the same thing so i put 2 in and 5 out that setting as well. Im reading 0 air flow on the safc. I read that when installing the z32 maf the white z32 wire must be soldered to the white ka harness and not just crimped. I will try soldering the two together and see what happens. Ill do some more research and make sure i have the safc wired properly to the ecu. Thanks again i wish i could posi rep you

[proxy0000]

Wow I should've read this before I wrote up that thread...

Uh... this isn't really an emergency but whenever you have the chance to do you think you could help me? Thanks .

LINK

[S14Jer]

I am debating on whether to pay a shop to do this or have my friends dad (a mechanic) help me with this but Ide like to know what im dealing with first.

Here is my problem, whenever i push the clutch in and put the car in gear it makes a horrible whining noise but when i let the clutch out and its all in gear its fine, no noise. I found this on youtube and it is the exact same noise and time that mine happens

YouTube - Clutch Noise?

I also noticed recently that If have the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st it will randomly barely start to grab and move the car little bits at a time even though the clutch is to the floor.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Thank you in advance for any help

[WangonwWarrior]

Originally Posted by S14Jer

I am debating on whether to pay a shop to do this or have my friends dad (a mechanic) help me with this but Ide like to know what im dealing with first.

Here is my problem, whenever i push the clutch in and put the car in gear it makes a horrible whining noise but when i let the clutch out and its all in gear its fine, no noise. I found this on youtube and it is the exact same noise and time that mine happens

YouTube - Clutch Noise?

I also noticed recently that If have the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st it will randomly barely start to grab and move the car little bits at a time even though the clutch is to the floor.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Thank you in advance for any help

Throw out bearing, maybe even old pressure plate about to pop. Nothing to be too worried about but fix it sometime

[importdude]

does that PP have Springs?
TOB
Pilotbushing/bearing?

[WangonwWarrior]

Originally Posted by importdude

does that PP have Springs?
TOB
Pilotbushing/bearing?

M bad i got these mixed up with my chevy. Its probably the throwout bearing, correct me if i am wrong but im 95% sure

[blu808]

Replied to your thread.

Originally Posted by proxy0000

Wow I should've read this before I wrote up that thread...

Uh... this isn't really an emergency but whenever you have the chance to do you think you could help me? Thanks .

LINK

[blu808]

Throwout bearing would be my guess.

Originally Posted by S14Jer

I am debating on whether to pay a shop to do this or have my friends dad (a mechanic) help me with this but Ide like to know what im dealing with first.

Here is my problem, whenever i push the clutch in and put the car in gear it makes a horrible whining noise but when i let the clutch out and its all in gear its fine, no noise. I found this on youtube and it is the exact same noise and time that mine happens

YouTube - Clutch Noise?

I also noticed recently that If have the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st it will randomly barely start to grab and move the car little bits at a time even though the clutch is to the floor.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Thank you in advance for any help

[WangonwWarrior]

Originally Posted by WangonwWarrior

Everyone says to run 2 in and 5 out but their is another setting page asking the same thing so i put 2 in and 5 out that setting as well. Im reading 0 air flow on the safc. I read that when installing the z32 maf the white z32 wire must be soldered to the white ka harness and not just crimped. I will try soldering the two together and see what happens. Ill do some more research and make sure i have the safc wired properly to the ecu. Thanks again i wish i could posi rep you

What ya think?

[S14Jer]

Thats what I am thinking, thanks for the help. I wonder what a mechanic would charge for that... I dont really know where to go to get it done either there are NO good performance shops anywhere near Grand Rapids MI. I dont know if I trust a regular shop to work on the SR20

[S14Jer]

Oh hey one more quick tech question. I bought this car from someone else and he had the BOV hooked up wrong so I connected it to the intake mani. Its a Greddy type R, no matter how loose or tight I make it the thing doesnt work, I still have compressor surge. Any ideas?

[lazysk8er2]

heres the pics for my ques on the flare fitting on the bmc can you tell me what my options are thank you