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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 08-14-2016, 03:37 PM   #1
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s13 Whats it worth?

In the market for my first s13 with an sr, and found this locally. Just wondering what you guys think its worth. Guy is asking $7500 which is a little out of my price range. Thanks
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:17 PM   #2
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Here are the details of the car
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:53 AM   #3
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Cool

bump, checking it out today
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:07 AM   #4
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Scope for rust on frame rails, pinch rails, strut towers, etc.

Looks pretty nice IMO. Probably resprayed, white firewall?

If SR is stock turbo, stock ecu, etc. Id say $4500 to $6500 pending the details found in-person and primarily the paint

Was trim and windows pulled for paint?, single stage or BC/CC? Stuff like that.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:10 AM   #5
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cool, appreciate it, he told me over text that the car is from florida and has zero rust which is crazy for PA 240s, and im sure its been painted it looks too fresh
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:14 AM   #6
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Frame rails uncrunched?
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:17 AM   #7
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according to him yeah, but would i be able to tell just from looking at them?
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:25 AM   #8
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cool, appreciate it, he told me over text that the car is from florida and has zero rust which is crazy for PA 240s, and im sure its been painted it looks too fresh
Pics can be very deceiving when it comes to paint jobs. Looks a little cloudy to me which gives concern,
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:27 AM   #9
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Yeah from the side it should look pretty straight.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:27 AM   #10
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so if the paint isnt too good you think i should offer lower, as long as theres no rust? i mean he wants 7500 which seems pretty steep to me
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:29 AM   #11
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Yeah from the side it should look pretty straight.
ooh okay perfect ill be sure to check that out for sure, any other random things to be looking for? its my first 240 if you couldnt tell haha
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:32 AM   #12
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so if the paint isnt too good you think i should offer lower, as long as theres no rust?
Absolutely.

The cost/quality between a Maaco single stage black and a good BC/CC job can be a couple thousand dollars.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:34 AM   #13
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ooh okay perfect ill be sure to check that out for sure, any other random things to be looking for? its my first 240 if you couldnt tell haha
Trim pieces can get expensive to replace if broken/missing,

Look at the panel gap, (Fender to door, fender to hood, fender to A pillar) make sure it looks even and symmetrical throughout the car.

Especially being re-sprayed, could be covering up an accident that wasn't reported. Ya never know.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:40 AM   #14
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Trim pieces can get expensive to replace if broken/missing,

Look at the panel gap, (Fender to door, fender to hood, fender to A pillar) make sure it looks even and symmetrical throughout the car.

Especially being re-sprayed, could be covering up an accident that wasn't reported. Ya never know.
that makes sense to be looking for that i feel like its tough to find an not wrecked 240 haha but yeah i hope the paint is pretty decent quality now im a little nervous
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:43 AM   #15
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You could also get an accident history report so you know about it when you go see it.

Other than that if it runs well, drives well, and the body is recoverable; $6750-7000 is pretty fair for being well kept and tasteful. Minus a corresponding amount if there's things that need fixin.

Check all the buttons and everything to make sure it all works.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:58 AM   #16
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Bring a magnet and check body panels and such for bondo (if the panel has bondo, the magnet won't stick).

I think the price is way high. My S14 with lots more parts, full maintenance list and documented parts list (pictures, with purchase prices, etc), Rebuiltt with OEM parts blacktop SR20 (again, documented re build), no ISR or knockoff parts etc etc et sold for a little over 7K, and it was a southern car with no rust and only 2 prior owners.

On the other hand, people want diamonds for their overpriced lumps of bread, so there is that
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:04 AM   #17
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Yeah I really am shooting for around 5k if it's in decent shape, I mean everything seems good with it I can't spend 7500 on a 240 right now haha
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:45 AM   #18
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Welded diff
random BOV
ISR crap
no cooling fan shroud
is there even a cooling fan ? must me very thin, and i cannot see the wiring ...
manual boost controler

= i would not touch it with a pole.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:48 AM   #19
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Welded diff
random BOV
ISR crap
no cooling fan shroud
is there even a cooling fan ? must me very thin, and i cannot see the wiring ...
manual boost controler

= i would not touch it with a pole.
Really? hmmm
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:58 AM   #20
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Welded diff
random BOV
ISR crap
no cooling fan shroud
is there even a cooling fan ? must me very thin, and i cannot see the wiring ...
manual boost controler

= i would not touch it with a pole.
QFT. Lots of off brand or missing parts.

To the OP: Just because you put lipstick on a pig, that doesn't mean it's suddenly not a pig anymore (nice paint and front bumper in the pictures) lol!

P.S WTF is he using a water bottle as his coolant overflow?!?!?

OP, I advise you, save your money for something else..........
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:01 PM   #21
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welded diff means this is a drift car. You cannot daily drive with one.

I may be hard with that previous post last sentence, but since it is a painted drift car with no proper cooling and 16" wheels ( you will cry when seeing tyre prices and end up buying 17" ), it reeks of trouble. I would not pay more than 4000$ for it, and this would be with a compression test done in front of me. I doubt the seller would accept that though.
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:09 PM   #22
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welded diff means this is a drift car. You cannot daily drive with one.

I may be hard with that previous post last sentence, but since it is a painted drift car with no proper cooling and 16" wheels ( you will cry when seeing tyre prices and end up buying 17" ), it reeks of trouble. I would not pay more than 4000$ for it, and this would be with a compression test done in front of me. I doubt the seller would accept that though.
See the only problem is no one ever seems to have nice 240s up here and everyone wants crazy money for them no matter what.. im thinking if this one seems decent in person and i throw a lower offer maybe money will talk.. I will definetly throw these points out in my arguments for my low offer
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:12 PM   #23
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QFT. Lots of off brand or missing parts.

To the OP: Just because you put lipstick on a pig, that doesn't mean it's suddenly not a pig anymore (nice paint and front bumper in the pictures) lol!

P.S WTF is he using a water bottle as his coolant overflow?!?!?

OP, I advise you, save your money for something else..........
Even if i can get it decently cheap and rust is not an issue?
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:16 PM   #24
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Ehhhh, if you can bring the price down some, sure.

I am however, much more patient and more keen with how and where I spend my money.....and an over priced 240SX is not it
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:19 PM   #25
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Ehhhh, if you can bring the price down some, sure.

I am however, much more patient and more keen with how and where I spend my money.....and an over priced 240SX is not it
i completely understand what you mean... well no harm in checking it out at least to get a feel of how to shop for a 240 haha
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:20 PM   #26
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These cars are old, and nice ones are hard to find. They also have a high price tag, because work has been done on them.

Say you get this one for 4000. You need to replace the diff first thing and probably the shafts as it is likely they are toast. Clutch and gearbox are not so drift friendly either, so set some money on the side to replace them. You are already looking at somewhere near 1000$ in (mostly second hand) parts.

Next is the 10psi of boost with no remap and no cooling system. Pics also show a strange exhaust. This says "headgasket is blown/is going to blow, or pistons have detonation marks".

No point in getting an SR / S13 if the engine needs a rebuild. Not at 7000, not at 4000$ either, because you are looking at a ~5000$+ engine building job, if done properly by someone who knows his job.

In the end you will have a crappy looking car that did cost you 10/12K$. And you will not be able to sell it for more than 7000, because it looks like crap AND people would rather buy crappy bent cars with nearly blown engine than a proper car.

If your objective was to build a race car with a forged sr20 and gobs of power, then it could be a good starting car. For 3000-4000$.

If your objective is to actually drive a car for 5000$, clearly, do not buy this one for more than 3000.
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:06 PM   #27
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Thumbs up

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Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
These cars are old, and nice ones are hard to find. They also have a high price tag, because work has been done on them.

Say you get this one for 4000. You need to replace the diff first thing and probably the shafts as it is likely they are toast. Clutch and gearbox are not so drift friendly either, so set some money on the side to replace them. You are already looking at somewhere near 1000$ in (mostly second hand) parts.

Next is the 10psi of boost with no remap and no cooling system. Pics also show a strange exhaust. This says "headgasket is blown/is going to blow, or pistons have detonation marks".

No point in getting an SR / S13 if the engine needs a rebuild. Not at 7000, not at 4000$ either, because you are looking at a ~5000$+ engine building job, if done properly by someone who knows his job.

In the end you will have a crappy looking car that did cost you 10/12K$. And you will not be able to sell it for more than 7000, because it looks like crap AND people would rather buy crappy bent cars with nearly blown engine than a proper car.

If your objective was to build a race car with a forged sr20 and gobs of power, then it could be a good starting car. For 3000-4000$.

If your objective is to actually drive a car for 5000$, clearly, do not buy this one for more than 3000.
wow great insight, much appreciated.. this is the best forum on the internet from my little experience ive had with it. Its crazy when car people actually help out other car people...
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:06 PM   #28
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Crousti is all doom and gloom lol!

In all honesty, the SR is pretty stout and 10 psi is only about 1-2 psi above stock boost (7-8 psi). A 1-2 psi jump is not going to blow anything up.

A car can be driven just fine on a welded diff. And I am not sure why a welded diff would kill axles........A stock diff and axles can be had for about $100

However, take note: The stock S13 Redtop SR is well over 20+ years old at this point in it's life! Keep that in mind when buying anything with a fresh JDM 20-30K mile engine..........because it's still 20+ years old for a S13 redtop at best! In addition, these cars in the North East rust to powder and are more likely than not, to be in their fair share of hits, accidents and write offs.....

At the end of the day 240si, go look on it and determine if it's for you. I personally wouldn't spend my money on another 240, but that's because I have been through the 240 community, hate the shitty market (people were giving me offers for less than HALF of what I was asking when I was selling.....The damn diff, turbo and ECU were worth more than people were offering...........fuck that!) and the people associated with it.

However, the 240 did everything I asked for and did it all VERY VERY well! It was just getting old and things started to break that I didn't want to fix

Good luck to ya!
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:00 PM   #29
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Get back to us after the in-person view.
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:14 PM   #30
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Get back to us after the in-person view.
ill post up tonight or tomorrow morning thanks guys
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