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Old 12-02-2009, 06:28 PM   #1
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Ultimate S13 SR wiring guide

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Old 12-02-2009, 07:53 PM   #2
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:07 PM   #3
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Best guide I've seen. This should help a ton of people.
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:41 PM   #4
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I'm working on the lower harness as well as guides on how to fit into USDM S13 and S14 bodies as well. Stay tuned.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:40 PM   #5
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A lot of people need help with the s14 SR into S13 chassis I've noticed recently, some shops can't even get it right. This is definitely a good writeup though, I will need this come May 2010.
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Old 12-02-2009, 11:09 PM   #6
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Haha, thats what you needed the tach probe port ID'd for? NICE! This is great!
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:55 AM   #7
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my reverse lights don't work... i'm going to flip the wires and see what happens lol.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:03 AM   #8
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my reverse lights don't work... i'm going to flip the wires and see what happens lol.
It doesn't matter. What year is your chassis (96?) and was it originally automatic?
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:49 AM   #9
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it's a 96 although the door sticker says made in 95...

the cluster for sure was fucked with... i changed the temp sensor to the ka one and it still doesn't read temp as well.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:17 AM   #10
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Cluster doesn't matter. Reverse sensor in the tranny completes the circuit, so polarity doesn't matter - power comes through the lower tranny harness plug (grey 8 pin) and back through that plug to the SMJ to the lights (which are grounded in the trunk). There's a couple of wires off the fusebox that are the same color, probably mixed em up in the fusebox relocation...

... I know I did the first time lol.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:31 AM   #11
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it's a 96 although the door sticker says made in 95...
Was it auto?

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i changed the temp sensor to the ka one and it still doesn't read temp as well.
The thermal transmitter is the same across the board. So the problem is somewhere else. Either the cluster is bad or the wiring is bad.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:41 PM   #12
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Sometimes I feel like I'm smoking some good stuff.

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Old 12-03-2009, 06:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
I found an error on the FR Sport's guide: SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20

The fuel pump wire is Black/Purple, not Black/Pink like they said.
sorry to correct you bro, but OEM nissan harnesses are Black / pink. if it's black / purple it's a replacement harness. Ive done enough SR harnesses that i noticed it, Ive done mostly used OEM harnesses. quite a few OEM Nissan Brand new ones, that for a fact where black/pink and a couple New Harnesses that where no OEM nissan and that wire indeed is Black/purple.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:04 PM   #14
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sorry to correct you bro, but OEM nissan harnesses are Black / pink. if it's black / purple it's a replacement harness. Ive done enough SR harnesses that i noticed it, Ive done mostly used OEM harnesses. quite a few OEM Nissan Brand new ones, that for a fact where black/pink and a couple New Harnesses that where no OEM nissan and that wire indeed is Black/purple.
I have both a brand new replacement harness and a used harness that came off of a front clip. Pin 104 on both ECU connector has Black/Purple.

I can see that the used one is starting to fade and may appear pink.

What do you think? Do you have the Japanese wiring diagram?
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:01 PM   #15
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I'll PM you the FSM diagram, its on my desktop but yes fsm states B/P

Purpple is states as PU just how BL is black and LB is Blue
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:06 PM   #16
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Agreed with Bardabe on this one, I believe the wire is labeled B/P, which would be pink, not purple. I love this discussion, is that weird?
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:51 AM   #17
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Damn you bitches for ganging up on me.

But I checked again and it's Black/Pink. Stupid colorblindedness.

And isn't Blue "L", not "BL"?
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:53 AM   #18
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wow so technical! good job guys =D
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Old 12-06-2009, 04:37 PM   #19
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This is the lower harness for the S14 SR20DET as reference. Check the actual wire on your S13.



E201-203: these connectors have the wires that you need to mate to the body harness. You may be able to just plug them in or you may have to cut the connectors off and redo the wiring yourself. This depends on the year and options on the shell. Since there are too many variations in the body harness, I can't cover them all. Just know that any wire you need to connect to the body harness will be done at these plugs as indicated below.

E204: 1 ring terminal. White. Connect to the battery positive terminal. Keep in mind that sometimes JDM battery terminals are smaller and you may have to enlarge the terminal. You can clip the terminal off and get a custom terminal with the right size at your local auto parts store.

E205: 1 ring terminal. White. Main power. Connect to the 75A or 100A fusible link at the underhood fusebox. Look at where the stock lower harness bolts to. This is where you bolt the E205 connector. Make sure that you bolt this opposite of the battery on the 75/100A main fusible link. The SR ring may need to be enlarged in some cases to fit the body.

E206: 1 ring terminal. Black. This is the ground wire for the alternator. Connect this ring terminal to the bolt behind the underhood relay box.

E207: 3 connectors:

1) Large insulated ring terminal. White. Connect to the large stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E205.

2) Small ring terminal. Black. Connect to the small stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E206.

3) Large 2pin connector. Connect to the alternator.
White: fused constant power. This wire goes to E205.
White/Red: CHARGE warning lamp in the gauge cluster. Not needed. This wire is connected to the E201-203 connectors. Verify continuity as needed and connect to the correct wire on the body. Otherwise this is not needed to make the engine run.

E208: Unknown connector and colours. This is for the EGR. Wires are connected to E201-203. Not needed.

E209: large black plug. Yellow/White. Not needed. Check the E201-203 connectors for continuity and connect to the OIL light if needed, but not necessary to run the engine.

E210: black 1pin. Black/Yellow. Connect to the starter solenoid. Check the E201-203 connector for continuity, and connect to the starter solenoid signal on the body.

E211: 2wire grey connector. Yellow/Black and Yellow/Blue. Vehicle Speed Sensor. Not needed. Otherwise check continuity at the E201-203 connectors and hook up to the VSS circuit on the body. It doesn't matter which wires get connected to which on the body. Current can flow either way through the switch. Not need to make the engine run.

E212: 2wire grey connector. Green/Blue and Green/White. Reverse lights. Not needed. Otherwise check continuity at the E201-203 connectors and hook up to the reverse light circuit on the body. It doesn't matter which wires get connected to which on the body. Current can flow either way through the switch. Not need to make the engine run.

E213: 2wire grey connector. Unknown wires. Neutral switch. Not needed.

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Old 12-06-2009, 04:51 PM   #20
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Is it possible to get a larger picture of the above diagram? It is difficult to make out the numbers/letters.
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Old 12-06-2009, 04:59 PM   #21
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Hit refresh and try again. I just updated the pix.
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
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This is the lower harness for the S13 SR20DET
That's an S14.

Good work on the write-up though. I've been thinking about putting one of these up but haven't had the time to write it out... good to see someone else do it.

I've done the S13 SR into S14 and S14 SR into S13... I see a lot of these questions come up so I may put some info up in this thread if you don't mind... cool?
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:30 PM   #23
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Quote:
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That's an S14.
This is the closest thing I have. If you have a Japanese translation then feel free to post it up.

The SR connector numbers aren't as important as knowing what the connector does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brew View Post
Good work on the write-up though. I've been thinking about putting one of these up but haven't had the time to write it out... good to see someone else do it.

I've done the S13 SR into S14 and S14 SR into S13... I see a lot of these questions come up so I may put some info up in this thread if you don't mind... cool?
Please do.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:24 AM   #24
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S13 SR into OBDII 1996 S14 240SX. Minimum required to run.

The S14 engine harness has the wipers and ABS (optional), whereas these things are on the body of the S13. The easiest way to make this swap work is to unplug the engine harness, but leave the entire S14 engine harness plugged to the car because this harness has all the sensors you will need.

The other main difference is that the ECCS relay is on the engine harness on the S14 and sits next to the ECU, whereas the S13 has the ECCS relay in the underhood relay box.

All wiring will be done at the big white S14 F3 plug and the ECCS relay that sits next to the ECU area. The F3 is the biggest plug in that area.

Dash Plug
Orange - Start Signal, connect to F3 pin 34 Orange

These wires will need to go back into the ECU area. The easiest way is to unloom the main harness and pull these wires back into the interior. Then shorten as needed.

Brown Plug
Red/Black - ECU relay ground pin controlled by pin 4 of ECU, connect to ECCS relay pin 1 Red/Black
Brown - Power source for all sensors, connect to ECCS relay pin 3 Black/White
Black/Pink - fuel pump relay ground pin controlled by pin 104 of ECU, connect to F3 pin 11 Black/Pink

Big Grey Plug
Blue/Red - coil pack power, connect to F3 pin 1 thick Black/Red wire
Black/Red - ingition power, connect to F3 pin 1 thick Black/Red wire
Blue/Yellow - AAC valve power, helps idle, connect to ECCS relay pin 3 Black/White
Black/White - ECU power to pin 47 and 38 of ECU, connect to F3 pin 1 thick Black/Red wire
Red - ECU Backup power to pins 46 and 109 of ECU, follow pin 17 Red on the F3 plug all the way to the S14 ECU plug. Clip the wires on the S14 ECU plug and connect to this Red wire.

Lower harness:

E204: 1 ring terminal. White. Connect to the battery positive terminal.

E205: 1 ring terminal. White. Main power. Connect to the 75A or 100A fusible link at the underhood fusebox.

E206: 1 ring terminal. Black. This is the ground wire for the alternator.

E207: 3 connectors:

1) Large insulated ring terminal. White. Connect to the large stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E205.

2) Small ring terminal. Black. Connect to the small stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E206.

3) Large 2pin connector. Connect to the alternator.
White: fused constant power. This wire goes to E205.
White/Red: CHARGE warning lamp in the gauge cluster. Not needed.

E210: black 1pin. Black/Yellow. Connect to the starter solenoid. Check the E201-203 connector for continuity, and connect to the starter solenoid signal on the body.


Your S13 SR in OBDII should now run. Good luck.
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:41 PM   #25
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This post is awesome! Thanks a ton, this will come in handy when I make my custom harness.
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:09 AM   #26
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to answer the question.

BL is always black...
L is blue.
LB is light blue.
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:39 AM   #27
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to answer the question.

BL is always black...
L is blue.
LB is light blue.
beat me to it, and yes that was my mistake, I have to give it to Simmone on this one.
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:52 AM   #28
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Yes... it's why it's always best to have an fsm el section or whatever section's wiring drawn up with the color scheme before you start screwing with stuff.

The chassis wiring in the 95-96 is different from the 97-98 just so slightly. And will throw some things off in my experience.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:31 AM   #29
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Some people are selling this wiring guide stuff on ebay. I offered to pay them but requested that they give me a refund if I find an error in their wiring schematic.

So far no one has agreed to give me a refund if I find an error. It shows that they're not confident in their wiring and/or are just greedy.
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Old 12-09-2009, 11:17 PM   #30
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shit where was this thread months ago lol good stuff.
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