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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-18-2019, 02:37 AM | #22741 |
Hey y'all. Buttoning up some stuff on my KA-T. I have a s14-a, and I'm looking for the Power Steering Pump Banjo Bolt. I'll attach a picture. I have the Chase bays power steering kit (for the 240) and it says it's supposed to work so I assume I just need the Banjo Bolt to seal it up.
Also: Does anyone know the driver side seat rail to chassis bolt size&thread? Picture of my power steering pump! |
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07-18-2019, 10:52 AM | #22742 |
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What other side mirror glass fit s13 housings? To my knowledge its...
3rd Gen maxima (Blue tint) Z32 G20. Is that it? I plan on going to the junkyard to stock up since I dont want to get new mirrors.
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07-18-2019, 12:44 PM | #22743 | |
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Quote:
why not go to a glass shop and have a new one made? its not rocket science. |
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07-18-2019, 02:16 PM | #22744 |
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07-20-2019, 05:44 AM | #22745 |
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Alright, I've done heaps of googling and searching but nothing helped so don't get mad at me please...
My 180sx is factory auto so it beeps when you're in reverse and it annoys the shit out of me. People have said there's a rectangular shaped module under the dash above the pedal boxes and to unplug it. Problem is, I can't even find it.... Anyone else been through the same issue? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk |
07-22-2019, 10:32 PM | #22748 |
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Question
I'm running a redtop sr with a SOHC but it isnt holding idle and it runs pretty crappy. Does the SOHC maf will make the SR run and when Im actually driving the car, the car drives fine. But, can the SOHC maf make the SR run crappy? |
07-22-2019, 10:41 PM | #22749 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Question
I'm running a redtop sr with a SOHC but it isnt holding idle and it runs pretty crappy. Does the SOHC maf will make the SR run and when Im actually driving the car, the car drives fine. But, can the SOHC maf make the SR run crappy? |
07-23-2019, 10:56 AM | #22750 |
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so i bought a vehicle that was a respray (maaco special). its actually one of the better maaco paint jobs ive seen, but the painter and/or prepper did a shit job masking certain things off. so i have some light over spray on my windshield and some of the weather stripping.
how would you go about removing this paint? can i use acetone on glass and not have it cloud up? what about the rubber window trim? wont the acetone dry it out? thank you in advance. i see some of the paint on the windshield when im driving and it drives me crazy. |
07-23-2019, 01:46 PM | #22751 | |
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07-24-2019, 01:10 PM | #22754 |
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a clay bar for the trim? im not so much worried about the glass (its easy but i just thought id lump it in there). its the trim im worried about. its a 99 and im assuming the trim is from the factory so its old.
i am aware that i would probably be better off buying new trim, but im trying to see if i can save this trim. its only in a few spots. im also wondering if i can get a flat plastic pry bar or something underneath the trim to try to slightly deform it to get the paint to chip, crack, flake, etc. thanks again. |
07-24-2019, 05:20 PM | #22757 | |
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Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk |
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07-30-2019, 11:08 AM | #22759 |
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I searched a little but didn't find anything. What's the difference between the Open and Viscous diff for S13 and s14? And I'm talking about physical differences, not how they work.
Reason being Tomei and Kazz says they have different part number LSD fitting previously open or viscous diffs and I'm wondering if it's the axle splines that are different or the casing itself or something else. |
07-30-2019, 12:47 PM | #22760 | |
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08-02-2019, 08:22 AM | #22761 |
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I’ve been on this site for years and never once asked a question, so I hope No one will get mad. I’ve searched....
I bought some brick S13 Silvia headlights (with the rectangular bowls) but it didn’t come with any of the socket “seals” on the back. I don’t know where the hell to get them. 1- do I need these seals on both the smaller and larger socket holes? The smaller socket has this cup-like boot on it, but no seal underneath it. 2- do I NEED to buy those little plugs if I’m going H4 bulbs? Basically, Is there a bulb I can get away with not buying the plugs? I just want it to work and be fairly watertight. Don’t care which bulbs I get, whatever works is fine with me. Those little bulb plug are expensive as hell and I’d rather avoid buying them if possible. Huge thanks |
08-02-2019, 09:04 AM | #22763 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
1. If you mean the rubber seals for keeping out dust & water then yeah, you would want to have those unless you don't mind the inside of your headlights getting filthy. If you mean the circle plastic rings that lock the seals in place then no, you can get away without using those. I've owned a pair of dual projectors & bricks that were missing these and it never caused any issues. 2. You mean the small wiring harness for both bulbs? Just buy H4 LED conversion bulbs which will plug straight into your factory harness. This would mean you'd have to make a harness for the H3C high beams though. There's write ups here on how to wire the high beams/fog lights (for projector headlights) to your headlight up/down button in the cabin. |
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08-02-2019, 09:18 AM | #22764 |
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Let's say I wanted to turbo an N/A Z32's VGDE engine. I have seen write-ups on what you might expect regarding cost & performance if you use OEM parts. But everyone knows the OEM breathing components are really restrictive on the VG30. Anybody got any idea what to expect if someone wanted to go straight to using all the required bolt-on, but aftermarket breathing mods right out the gates? I'm talking like Z1 exhaust manifolds & piping, Ashspec massives smics, etc... paired with either stock twins or T28s? I've been coming up empty so far in my search.
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08-03-2019, 09:48 PM | #22765 | |
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Yeah that’s exactly what I needed to know, thanks man. One thing I don’t know still is where to get those “seals” for the back. Can’t find them. I’ve heard they might be interchangeable with r32. Not sure. As for your reply to #2, Na I don’t mean the wiring harness, it’s literally like a small squarish block that has male plugs sticking out of it. Think of an iPhone charger block.... not sure if I explained that well lol but it looks like you plug the sub harness into the block and the block plugs into the bulb. It seems to lock into place with the metal in the socket hole. |
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08-13-2019, 02:18 PM | #22768 |
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Yes, first try to extract it by welding to it and trying to spin it out. If not a helicoil will do. Thats what most people do.
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08-13-2019, 05:18 PM | #22769 | |
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Dang. The site won’t let me upload a pic to show you. Maybe I’ll try to add a link. What is the link to that adapter anyway just in case?? |
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08-13-2019, 05:24 PM | #22770 |
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https://www.ebay.com/i/233232838623?...gaAkHfEALw_wcB
This is the link just to see the circular rubber seals that are on the back of the Silvia headlight. The best way I would describe it is like a grommet kinda. If anyone has any idea where to find these or find another way to deal with it I’d like to hear it. |
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Tags |
180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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