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Old 09-05-2018, 08:23 PM   #22171
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Okay, someone please clarify this for me once and for all. Ive looked all over nico and zilvia and find very scant info on this. The so called Q45 interior chrome door handle swap. I bought a set of Q45 door handles off of ebay under the impression that they will work but I come to find out that the housing is too bulky and the prongs dont line up.

If at all possible, can someone PM me a link or show a photo of Q45 door handles that actually fit on a S14? Ive read numerous times that theyre a direct swap but obviously not since my pair didnt fit.

Thanks!
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:28 PM   #22172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenndyla938 View Post
Hi I have a 1990 240sx s13 should I have power to both sides on all the injectors when the key is off?


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I'd check your ECU; my buddy had the same issue with his ECU where he would start the engine, turn the key all the way off and pull it out, and the car would remain running. It turned out that his ECU had a burnt trace on the board.

So, undo battery, remove ECU and disconnect the harness, undo the bolts to open the ECU cover, then carefully inspect for any obvious burns. If youre not sure take photos and post here.
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:40 PM   #22173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
Okay, someone please clarify this for me once and for all. Ive looked all over nico and zilvia and find very scant info on this. The so called Q45 interior chrome door handle swap. I bought a set of Q45 door handles off of ebay under the impression that they will work but I come to find out that the housing is too bulky and the prongs dont line up.

If at all possible, can someone PM me a link or show a photo of Q45 door handles that actually fit on a S14? Ive read numerous times that theyre a direct swap but obviously not since my pair didnt fit.

Thanks!
Do you have any photos of whats not fitting? Will it not allow the doorcard to be installed?
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:19 PM   #22174
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There’s the ecu what do u think? I don’t see anything off hand.




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Old 09-06-2018, 06:21 AM   #22175
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The ECU looks clean, Id say look at the FSM and start figuring out whats on and off based on key position. If something is staying off/on that shouldnt be for that key position figure out why by tracing wires and testing with a multimeter. Use the EC/EL section of the FSM.
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:26 AM   #22176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afishysilvia View Post
Do you have any photos of whats not fitting? Will it not allow the doorcard to be installed?
These are the exact handles I bought, the three prongs in the back are whats causing my issue. the bottom on is too thick to fit into my bracket. I think the seller sold me rear door handles instead of the front ones. I think the front ones look different. Please let me know


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Old 09-06-2018, 06:32 AM   #22177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
These are the exact handles I bought, the three prongs in the back are whats causing my issue. the bottom on is too thick to fit into my bracket. I think the seller sold me rear door handles instead of the front ones. I think the front ones look different. Please let me know


So, shave down the prong until it fits. Pretty sure that's what I had to do. It's pretty close fit, but not a "direct" swap. Some trimming is necessary.
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Old 09-06-2018, 06:28 PM   #22178
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

I have power to the injectors but there still not working. Any thoughts? Is a ka24e 1990 240sx s13, could it be the crank sensor and if so where is it and how u test it?


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Old 09-07-2018, 08:22 AM   #22179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenndyla938 View Post
I have power to the injectors but there still not working. Any thoughts? Is a ka24e 1990 240sx s13, could it be the crank sensor and if so where is it and how u test it?


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Crack open the FSM EC section. Everything you need to know is in there about the engine. But to answer your question, it is located basically underneath the midway point of the intake manifold on the block. Ive seen people using taped up coat hangers to reinstall new ones.

Check the following for engine diagnostics before you start replacing things,

Fuel
Air
Spark
Timing
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:48 PM   #22180
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My car was smashed into by some random dude.

This can be repaired by buying a new OEM rear fender correct? I know it will cost a few thousand prob but I am ok with that.


I have an extra door so I am fine on that part.

Seems like a simple enough job for a body shop? Buy that part and replace?

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Old 09-08-2018, 06:12 AM   #22181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imbored205 View Post
My car was smashed into by some random dude.

This can be repaired by buying a new OEM rear fender correct? I know it will cost a few thousand prob but I am ok with that.

https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...partcode=78111



I have an extra door so I am fine on that part.

Seems like a simple enough job for a body shop? Buy that part and replace?

Or you can cut it all out, use some fat overs and say fuck it, because race car now


Seriously, if his insurance is paying and YOUR choice of body shop is willing to do the work if they use your parts(door), quarter, and they are repainting to match, jump on it
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Old 09-08-2018, 12:37 PM   #22182
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)



There’s the distributor I think there’s a crank position sensor in it from the wires coming up from the bottom instead of the plug would this stop it from firing the injectors? If it doesn’t work I do have good spark


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Old 09-08-2018, 02:31 PM   #22183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imbored205 View Post
My car was smashed into by some random dude.

This can be repaired by buying a new OEM rear fender correct? I know it will cost a few thousand prob but I am ok with that.

https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanpa...partcode=78111



I have an extra door so I am fine on that part.

Seems like a simple enough job for a body shop? Buy that part and replace?
Technically yes, that can be fixed. However the part is discontinued and maybe very difficult to find even for a body shop. It maybe best to have the insurance total it out, buy it back and switch any parts you want to a new shell and part out the old one.
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Old 09-08-2018, 03:44 PM   #22184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agamemnon View Post
Technically yes, that can be fixed. However the part is discontinued and maybe very difficult to find even for a body shop. It maybe best to have the insurance total it out, buy it back and switch any parts you want to a new shell and part out the old one.
I was able to source a door and quarter panel. Body shop guy recommended that was the best way cost wise since I would need the part behind the quarter panel as well.

I do have another s14 of the same color but would like to fix this one just because..

I will just get the payout from the other party's insurance since I wasn't at fault and buy back.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:44 AM   #22185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imbored205 View Post
I was able to source a door and quarter panel. Body shop guy recommended that was the best way cost wise since I would need the part behind the quarter panel as well.

I do have another s14 of the same color but would like to fix this one just because..

I will just get the payout from the other party's insurance since I wasn't at fault and buy back.
Out here in Tennessee, I believe the phrase always used is SEND IT
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Old 09-10-2018, 04:31 PM   #22186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imbored205 View Post
I was able to source a door and quarter panel. Body shop guy recommended that was the best way cost wise since I would need the part behind the quarter panel as well.

I do have another s14 of the same color but would like to fix this one just because..

I will just get the payout from the other party's insurance since I wasn't at fault and buy back.
Yeah, it looks like the b-pillar got tagged. Shop is going to have to be good to align that correctly if you ever want your door to close and look right.
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:42 PM   #22187
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Does anyone know what pitch/thread allen bolt is used on the codyace ac brackets? I have somehow lost 2 screws on mine and I dont want the damn compressor falling out. I am talking about the allen bolts that go from adaptor to block.

I emailed codyace but no response.
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:50 PM   #22188
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Please help me. I want to drive my car.


What type of connector runs to this knock sensor harness and where do i get the connector for it i just researched for ten mins. I need the part that runs from harness to the plug that
Goes to this.




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Old 09-12-2018, 06:14 AM   #22189
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Anyone know a good replacement OE clutch master cylinder for S14?

Reason why Im asking is that my clutch pedal never comes all the way up after depressing it unless I pull it up with my toe from underneath. Ive replaced the spring on the pedal thinking that was it, but turns out its not so Im starting to think the clutch master cylinder is the reason. Id love to hear some thoughts on this, thank you
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:51 AM   #22190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
Anyone know a good replacement OE clutch master cylinder for S14?

Reason why Im asking is that my clutch pedal never comes all the way up after depressing it unless I pull it up with my toe from underneath. Ive replaced the spring on the pedal thinking that was it, but turns out its not so Im starting to think the clutch master cylinder is the reason. Id love to hear some thoughts on this, thank you
I've had good luck with Centric parts.
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:06 AM   #22191
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Anyone know a good replacement OE clutch master cylinder for S14?

Reason why Im asking is that my clutch pedal never comes all the way up after depressing it unless I pull it up with my toe from underneath.
Had a similar problem in my hatch. Clutch master was indeed the issue. While I was replacing the master I went ahead and did a stainless braided line and also a new slave cylinder. Napa part number for the clutch master cylinder is ATM P9063. It runs $41.49. Altrom imports- oe equivalent, 12 month/12000 mile warranty

Also bench bleed the master and slave before you install will save you some time. GL
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:08 AM   #22192
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Thank you to the both of you
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:54 AM   #22193
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Does anyone know what pitch/thread allen bolt is used on the codyace ac brackets? I have somehow lost 2 screws on mine and I dont want the damn compressor falling out. I am talking about the allen bolts that go from adaptor to block.

I emailed codyace but no response.
M10x1.5 20mm. You're going to have to find the exact one that Cody uses so the hex bolt is flush.

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Old 09-15-2018, 01:27 PM   #22194
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Just wondering, for those of you with an s13 who did a 5 lug swap. What do you guys run for a spare tire? A z32 or s14 spare tire or none at all. I’ve been reading the z32 spare is good because it obviously clears the brakes. Which i have done. But just was curious what other people used.


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Old 09-15-2018, 04:27 PM   #22195
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Hey all, Im in a bit of a predicament here. I have an S14 with a ABS differential. I grabbed a spare diff from someone not knowing mine was ABS, the one I grabbed was a free S13 non-ABS.

Is there any way I can make the spare one work with my ABS pumpkin?
Can I transfer in the internals from non-ABS into my ABS diff and use my ABS output shafts?
Am I crazy?
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Old 09-15-2018, 05:55 PM   #22196
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You you need to swap that diff in ASAP? I thought you grabbed it as a spare.

I would sell it and get the right one.

Or if you're dead-set on using the S13 one, get an S14 non-ABS driveshaft instead of swapping the carrier between housings.
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Old 09-15-2018, 05:58 PM   #22197
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You you need to swap that diff in ASAP? I thought you grabbed it as a spare.

I would sell it and get the right one.

Or if you're dead-set on using the S13 one, get an S14 non-ABS driveshaft instead of swapping the carrier between housings.
Grabbed it to swap in bc current one makes noises; it was free so I grabbed it without much consideration. I have two options, find out if I can make the internals of the S13 diff work in the S14 ABS diff OR get an S13 or S14 ABS diff thats in better condition than mine.

Im starting to think what Im trying to do wont be possible.
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:02 PM   #22198
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Option 3 is the matching driveshaft
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Old 09-17-2018, 04:49 AM   #22199
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Quote:
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Option 3 is the matching driveshaft
Option 4:
Rebuild YOUR diff with a OBX Racing Helical, Kaaz, or Cusco unit
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:59 AM   #22200
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Grabbed it to swap in bc current one makes noises; it was free so I grabbed it without much consideration. I have two options, find out if I can make the internals of the S13 diff work in the S14 ABS diff OR get an S13 or S14 ABS diff thats in better condition than mine.

Im starting to think what Im trying to do wont be possible.
The bearing and stuff will work, but the pinion gear is slightly longer on the ABS diff. Ring and everything else is the same though.
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